Langtang Lirung Attempt. An eight-man Canadian expedition led by Shaun Parent attempted to repeat the 1980 British route which started up a rib on the south face and continued up the face. They reached Base Camp at 13,125 feet on March 12. A high ...
Glacial Movement in the Khumbu IcefallJack StarmerSINCE 1921 WHEN GEORGE MALLORY FIRST SAW IT from the brink of the Lho La, Everest’s Khumbu Icefall has been viewed with great respect—and, indeed, with considerable awe. It plunges for slightly ove...
JOAN WILSHIRE FIREY1927-19801973. It was an American Alpine Club gathering in full swing in Los Angeles. Committee reports were droning on—a lassitude had seeped into the audience and heads were beginning to bob. I was about to make another “aside...
Challenge of the North Cascades, by Fred Beckey. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1969. 280 pages, including 22 pages Appendix; 47 photos; 13 maps. Price $7.95.For years American mountaineers have been pondering the questions: How many climbs can a man ...
Puscanturpa Este, Stonehenge. Grega Kresal and I, who climbed Chacraraju’s 700m east face (VII A2) together in 1993, returned to Peru for the east face of Puscanturpa Este (5,410m). The peak is located in the extreme southeast corner of the Huay...
Kedar Dome. A 15-member Polish expedition led by Marek Grochowski hoped to climb two routes on Kedar Dome. Base Camp was established at Topoban on September 20. On the 25th Andrzej Jakubowski, Zbigniew Mikolajczyk, Marek Orenczuk and Waldemar Zmur...
Wiencke and Ronge Islands, various ascents and scientific program. An international expedition comprising myself as leader and skipper, co-skipper Dave Hildes (Canada), Peter Taylor (US), Grant Redvers (NZ), Jon Millar (Canada), Elliot Robertson (...
Mt. Everest, solo attempt. In the spring of 1952 a Dane, Klaus Bekker Larsen, with four Sherpas, traveled from Darjeeling to Namche Bazar and climbed to the Lobujya Khola between Nuptse and the Lho La. After they were forced back from there, they ...
San Juan, Copap Group, Chinchey. After leaving the Vilcabamba (see also that section), we reached Huaraz on July 11. Geoff Spear- point had taken Radcliffe’s place, joining David Bamford, John Gates, Tom Clarkson and me. Because conditions had bee...
INADEQUATE PROTECTION – NUT PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Looking Glass Rock, Second ComingOn July 28, at 9:00 p.m. two climbers called 911 from the base of Second Coming, a well-known 5.7 two pitch traditional climb located...
Everest, The Hornbein Couloir Direct from Tibet. Swiss Erhard Loretan, Nicole Niquille, Jean Troillet, as well as my wife Annie and I from France, arrived on July 17 by jeep and truck from the Nepalese-Tibetan border. Troillet wanted to solo the c...
MARK DENNIS WEIGELT 1949-1972Mark Weigelt died on October 15, 1972, in a massive rockfall in the exit gully of the Ice Cliff Glacier on Mount Stuart in the Washington Cascades. He was very exuberant that day because the glacier was well broken, in...
1951-711972Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta30143820627British Columbia6619947511Yukon Territory9822000Ontario111000Quebec111000West Arctic000112Practi...
Shisha Pangma and Cho Oyu. Both peaks were climbed by the standard routes, by which the first ascents had been made. Shisha Pangma was climbed in classic style from Base Camp at 5100 meters but without high-altitude porters. Camps were at 5700, 63...
INVOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Vermont, Smuggler’s Notch. At 2:30 p.m. on 4 January 1974, Tom McCrumm (28), Allen Gaines (34), and Harvey Goldstein (26) hiked into Smuggler’s Notch to find an ice gulley to climb. Only a short distance from where we left my ...
FALL ON SNOW, ASCENDING TOO FAST, HAPE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PLACED NO PROTECTION, DESCENDING UNROPED Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 14 Charles Cearley (40) and the Edwards brothers flew into Kahiltna base camp. Their climbing itinerary was first t...
The Naked Mountain, by Elizabeth Knowlton. vii + 355 pages, 34 illustrations, diagrams and index. New York and London. G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1933. Price $5.00.This book, devoted to the assault on Nanga Parbat (26,620 ft.) by the German-American exp...
The Hall of the Mountain King, by Howard H. Snyder. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1973. 207 pages, 35 photographs. Price: $8.95.Mount McKinley was first climbed in 1913. From that time until 1967, four people died while climbing the mountain....
“Someday you will be perfect,” said the charming shopkeeper in Lhasa, through a teasing smile. She gently touched my badly sunburned nose with her finger and consoled me. Someday I will be perfect…maybe. I giggled the whole day.Ten years earlier. ...
Hunter’s North Buttress DirectMugs StumpABSORBFD in my thoughts, I listlessly watched the craggy peaks go by as Doug Geeting instinctively maneuvered the plane through the passes to the Kahiltna Glacier. I don’t even remember whether the other two...