This section could never appear except for the great help given by many friends. Although this list is far from complete, we wish to thank particularly Dr. Adolf Diemberger, Dr. G.O. Dyhrenfurth, Sohli S. Mehta, Kamal K. Guha, Michael Cheney, Colo...
Encyclopaedia of Mountaineering by Walt Unsworth. New York: St. Martin’s. 1975. 272 pages, 34 photos. $12.95.This is, quite simply, the worst reference book I have ever seen. Since reference books must be accurate to be usable, the multifold error...
A FURTHER REQUEST FOR CASE HISTORIES OF HIGH MOUNTAIN ILLNESSESThe 22 year old, healthy young man who was rescued from the Snow- mass area in Aspen on January 1, 1959, started an interesting train of events. Initially the impression was that he ha...
Arrigetch Peaks, Parabola Peak, Northeast Buttress. On August 4, Lara Karena Bitenieks and I flew into Circle Lake to commence a three-week rock climbing trip in the Arrigetch peaks of the Brooks Range. After a two-day approach, we established a b...
Over the Edge: The True Story of Four American Climbers’ Kidnap and Escape in the Mountains of Central Asia. Greg Child. New York: Villard. 2002. 284 pages. Hardcover. $24.95.Over the Edge is Greg Child’s fifth book. It chronicles the terror that ...
Mount HickmanFred BeckeyLOCALS and natives often think climbing is pointless and perverse. To be “weathered-in” at the Southeastern Alaska coastal town of Wrangell is an experience with frontier mentality, for fishing and drinking are the principa...
Nevado de Huila, Central Cordillera, Pico Mayor. Guillermo Cajiao led our Colombian-American expedition of nine. Our purpose was to make a film asking the Colombian government to declare the nevado and surrounding area a national park. We left Cal...
After a flight to Lukla and a seven-day trek, including a rest day in Thame, a four-man team established base camp south of the Lunag Group at 5,200m, close to the Lunag Glacier. The site was superb, on grass, with running water and a nice collect...
Court of the Patriarchs, Enchainment. During three days in late March, in Zion Canyon’s Court of the Patriarchs, Dan Stih and I climbed all three of the Patriarchs and the Sentinel in one push. This traverse also included a possibly unclimbed form...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HAT North Carolina, Whitesides Mountain, New DiversionsLabor Day was the date that my climbing partner, Todd (29), and I (41) had set to finally climb Whitesides Mountain. About a month’s worth of plannin...
Pakistan Trekking Guide. Isobel and Ben Shaw. The Guidebook Co., HongKong, 1993. £11.96.Readers familiar with Isobel Shaw’s excellent general guidebooks on Pakistan, the most recent being Pakistan Handbook (Moon Publications, Chico, CA, 1990), hav...
Early Travelers in the Alps, by G. R. De Beer. Pp. xi+204, including bibliography and index. Illustrated with 40 plates and 36 text figures from old woodcuts and engravings. London : Sidgwick and Jackson, Ltd., 1931. Price 10/6.The reader who enjo...
Aconcagua, South Face. On February 10 our group left Laguna Horcones for Base Camp. After reconnaissance and acclimatization on the 11th and 12th we decided on the 1966 route of Aykes and Pellegrini. On the 13th we placed Camp I at 15,750 feet. Af...
RAPPEL FAILURE, EXPOSURE California, Tuolumne MeadowsI regret to report that an accident occurred on September 1, at the Sierra Club’s Tuolumne Meadows Climb that resulted in the death of Ray Beal. Ray, who had been a member for two years and clim...
RAPPELLED OFF END OF ROPE–FALL ON ROCK, MISCALCULATED RAPPEL STATIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn July 13, as we were preparing to start the Shield route in Yosemite, California, I (Matthew Luck) was ascending the fifth fixed (static) ...
Siguniang, south face to southwest ridge, not to summit; Siguniang North, first ascent, southwest face. I’m at 5,500m. The ice is hard. My crampons rebound, blunted after three weeks. For the last eight years in Haute Savoie the Committee of the F...
Jannu. A strong French expedition, led by Lionel Terray, climbed Jannu (25,294 feet). They followed the extraordinarily difficult route which they had reconnoitered in 1959 to within about 1000 feet of the summit. (See AAJ 1960, 12:1, pp. 156-7 fo...
Mount Owen, Northwest Face. It is a characteristic of mountains and their climbers that routes are developed most extensively on the side offering the easiest approach. This would seem to be the principal explanation for the unclimbed status of th...
A Climber’s Guide to Yosemite Valley by Steve Roper. San Francisco;Sierra Club, 1964. 190 pages, 40 photographs with 15 line drawings by Al MacDonald. $4.75.Yosemite Valley, the finest pure rock-climbing area in the United States, is a paradox in ...
The Possible Altitude of K2George Wallerstein, AAC and Astronomy Department,University of WashingtonEditor’s Note. The Journal is publishing the brief article which appears below because the Editor feels that it is most important for it to appear ...