New England Section. The New England Section held its 13th annual Formal Dinner in March, once again at the elegant Henderson House in Weston, MA. New Hampshire legend Steve Arsenault was our guest speaker, whose topic was “From Cathedral Ledge to...
Denali, Youngest climber to Reach the Summit. Korean climber Kim Young Sik celebrated his 12th birthday two days before he summited via the West Buttress route on June 27.Denali National Park Reports
Illampu, South Face, Yacuma and Ancohuma from the West. In May we six climbers drove over the Huallata Pass to 1000 feet below the village of Cachi- pata to the Mina Candelaria del Illampu at 10,825 feet. With the help of four porters we carried o...
Huayna Potosí. during August García, Fuentes and Barría made the first Chilean ascent of the west face of Huayna Potosí by the central route. They were three days on the face.Gastón Oyarzún, Federación de Andinismo de Chile
Kluane National Park Reserve, mountaineering summary and statistics. Mountaineering use was down by 50% in the St. Elias Ranges, with only 19 mountaineering expeditions registered. Fifty-four climbers and skiers spent 1,009 person-days in the St. ...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Snowqualmie PassOn March 28, 1982, Emmanuel Salazar (31) fell 25 meters when the piton to which his rappel rope was anchored pulled out. He sustained a broken leg. (Source: G. McKinney, SAR Mission ...
Gebel Gharib. Gebel Gharib (1750 meters) is the highest of the northern Red Sea hills and rises a sheer 1500 meters from the gravel plains of the western Gulf of Suez. I made the first ascent of the south buttress solo on May 7. I found a lichen-c...
STRANDED, MUSCLE STRAIN, CLIMBING ALONECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyAt 1318 on August 15, 1984, a phone call to NPS dispatch reported “calls for help” from the cliffs left (west) of Lower Yosemite Falls. Investigation revealed a stranded solo climbe...
Mt. Trinidad, Attempt, and Unnamed New Route. Lucy Regan, Brian Bigger, and James Marshall attempted the remaining natural line on Mt. Trinidad, the right-hand crack line. Regan and Bigger had attempted the route previously, reaching about one-thi...
Chablis Spire, Lichen Bouquet. The Wine Spires are a tight cluster of granite needles east of Washington Pass with sheer walls and tiny summits. During 1952 and 1953, Fred Beckey and partners scaled the four pinnacles and even today, Burgundy Spir...
VARIOUS FALLS ON SNOWCalifornia, Mount ShastaThere were seven climbing-related accidents on Mount Shasta last season, with most of them being on the Avalanche Gulch route. With a smooth snow surface, we had a few climbers who fell and tumbled 1,00...
Lemon Mountains, various ascents. During July and August an eight-person British Alpine Club-Alpine Climbing Group team led by Roy Ruddle visited East Greenland. Primary objectives were important new routes in the South Lemons and major first asce...
HENRY STURGIS GREW1874-1953Harry Grew, as he was known to his friends, had been a member of the Club since 1935. Almost his only climbs were made in three years during his late fifties, a fact of which he was rather proud, as few men begin climbin...
Tirokwa, Bilbo, Asgard, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. From June 20 to July 29, Nicholas D. Wood, Jonathan Ison, Ian Marriot, Sean Walsh and I took part in the Leeds Baffin Island Expedition. We centered around Summit Lake. To reach there...
British Columbia, Garibaldi Park, Wedge Mountain. On 28 December Nona Rowat (28), and three companions completed a ski-mountain tour in Garibaldi Park. They had been near 9,400 foot Wedge Mountain where they had experienced severe cold. The night ...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabaska/Andromeda ColOn July 31, 1988, Mike (25), a climber of moderate experience, set out to climb Mount Athabaska via the Athabaska/Andromeda Col. He was by himself, s...
Nevado Llongote, Lima-Limon. The day after setting up base camp by Laguna Llongote in the Zona Yauyos, Guillermo Meija and I checked the approach to our intended route, an ice line directly up the south face to the summit of Llongote (5,781m), and...
Edited by H. Adams CarterUNITED STATESTetons, Wyoming. In the past summer several new routes were made in the Tetons. A few of the more important climbs follow.Traverse between Bivouac and Raynold’s Peaks. Lying between Moran and Snowshoe Canyons ...
Coastal Mountains, Southeastern Alaska. By eleven o’clock on July 13, Rich Mathies, Jerry Barnard, Jim McCarthy and I were on the beach at the snout of the Baird Glacier, where it almost meets Thomas Bay, not far from Petersburg. Our approach up t...
Aleutian Islands. An expedition of the Nagano Prefecture Alpine Association of Japan to the Aleutian Islands was led by Ichiro Yoshizawa, a different person from the one of that name who has been a member of the American Alpine Club. From July 14 ...