THE SECONDARY earthquakes were still sending occasional trembles and frightful rumors through Lima when our Norwegian-American quintet arrived. Hence we quickly agreed on “mountain stability” as one of our main climbing requirements. Fortunately J...
Hainabrakk East Tower, The Choice.Simon Meis and I arrived in Islamabad on July 16 and traveled to the Trango Glacier, where we set up base camp for four weeks below Nameless Tower. Our two-man team had little big-wall experience, so we chose to g...
Avoiding Frozen Feet —Cold Weather FootgearWilliam E. DavisWITH an increase in the number or expeditions to areas of great peaks and with more and more interest in winter mountaineering, the possibility of climbers being exposed to frostbite is gr...
Mount Adams, Avalanche Glacier Headwall. Dale Schmidt and I made the first direct ascent of this route on July 10. No major technical difficulties were encountered. We mainly climbed a steep gully.James Bjorgen, Cascadians
WHO could turn down a free trip to paradise? I did for two years in a row. I was invited to train promising young Kiwi climbers in big-wall techniques in the Southern Alps of New Zealand. I couldn’t go in 1975 because of the K2 expedition, nor in ...
On May 25 Anna Torretta, from Italy, and I arrived in Dushanbe, Tajikistan, and traveled southeast for two days by 4WD to Ishkashim, where we crossed into Afghanistan. This sensitive border is renowned for opium and people smuggling, so imagine my...
Diran Attempts and Tragedy. Of the expeditions which went to Diran (7257 meters, 23,810 feet) in 1989, only the Japanese group led by Ken Takahashi was successful. Seven Koreans were led by Chang Su-Jeong. On June 20, Ha Sang-Woen and Lee Su-Hee d...
Thalay Sagar (6,904m), northwest ridge, Harvest Moon. The northwest ridge attracted us because it was an evident line: the buttress looks like a wave from base camp, and the massive granite pillar at 6,400m provides a taste of challenge. We were a...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
Junction Peak, ascent; Singhi Kangri, south face, attempt. An Indian Army expedition led by Col Ashok Abbey visited the Siachen Glacier from August 31 to October 7. Moving relatively swiftly up the glacier, the expedition established base camp on ...
Mount McKinley— Proposed East Buttress RoutesBradford WashburnAuthor’s Note: All of the climbs described in this article involve technical and logistic problems of such difficulty that a party attempting any one of them should be manned with unifo...
HANDHOLD BROKE OFF, FALL ON ROCK, NO BELAY ANCHORS, NO HARD HATSWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Death CanyonOn September 15, 1992, two experienced climbers (31 and 30) started up the Snaz shortly after noon after registering for their climb th...
CAMERON TAGUE1967-2000On July 6, Cameron Tague slipped off of Broadway, the ledge system that splits the Diamond’s imposing alpine wall in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Cameron was certainly no stranger to Longs Peak, as this was possibl...
DUNCAN McDUFFIE1877-1951When Duncan McDuffie was elected to membership in the American Alpine Club in 1927, he had for some time ceased to be an active climber of mountains; but his interest in preserving the scenic features of the West, and parti...
This section could never appear except for the great help given by many friends. Although this list is far from complete, we wish to thank particularly Dr. Adolf Diemberger, Dr. G.O. Dyhrenfurth, Sohli S. Mehta, Kamal K. Guha, Michael Cheney, Colo...
Encyclopaedia of Mountaineering by Walt Unsworth. New York: St. Martin’s. 1975. 272 pages, 34 photos. $12.95.This is, quite simply, the worst reference book I have ever seen. Since reference books must be accurate to be usable, the multifold error...
A FURTHER REQUEST FOR CASE HISTORIES OF HIGH MOUNTAIN ILLNESSESThe 22 year old, healthy young man who was rescued from the Snow- mass area in Aspen on January 1, 1959, started an interesting train of events. Initially the impression was that he ha...
Arrigetch Peaks, Parabola Peak, Northeast Buttress. On August 4, Lara Karena Bitenieks and I flew into Circle Lake to commence a three-week rock climbing trip in the Arrigetch peaks of the Brooks Range. After a two-day approach, we established a b...
Over the Edge: The True Story of Four American Climbers’ Kidnap and Escape in the Mountains of Central Asia. Greg Child. New York: Villard. 2002. 284 pages. Hardcover. $24.95.Over the Edge is Greg Child’s fifth book. It chronicles the terror that ...
Mount HickmanFred BeckeyLOCALS and natives often think climbing is pointless and perverse. To be “weathered-in” at the Southeastern Alaska coastal town of Wrangell is an experience with frontier mentality, for fishing and drinking are the principa...