FALL ON ICEBritish Columbia, Mount Dennis, Guinness GullyOn December 2, a 35-year-old doctor from the Seattle, WA, area was descending from the route Guinness Gully on Mount Dennis near Field, B.C. when he tripped and fell 20 feet. They’d finished...
The Great German School of Climbing: The KaisergebirgeRand HerronWHOEVER goes from western countries to the Alps for a season’s activity, usually thinks, first of all, of Chamonix, Zermatt, Grindelwald, perhaps of the Dauphine, or if the Eastern A...
THE INTERNATIONAL GEOPHYSICAL YEAR, 1957–58In response to a request from the International Council of Scientific Unions, the National Academy of Sciences-National Research Council, in February 1953, formed a United States National Committee to dev...
A REQUEST FOR CASE HISTORIES OF HIGH MOUNTAIN ILLNESSESOn December 30, 1958, a healthy experienced and excellently trained 21-year old skiier became acutely ill in the mountains near Snowmass Lake at an altitude of approximately 10,000 feet. I par...
The American Alpine Club 94th Annual Meeting, December 6-7, 1996New York? What the hell are they having it in New York for, anyway?”“The Club was based here for years, you know. This is the first time an event has been held here since they moved e...
East Face of the Central Tower of PaineArthur McGarr, Mountain Club of South AfricaTHE Central Tower of Paine in the Paine Range of Patagonia was climbed in the 1962/63 season by Don Whillans and Chris Bonington from the west via a route that invo...
GeographicalDistrictsNumber of Accidents1951-83DeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of Accidents1984DeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta1685536617241British Columbia173693496312Yukon Territory202251000Ontario16432204Quebec11228000East Arctic511...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE BELAY, FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FATIGUE, WEATHER Washington, Mount RainierOn February 28, 1986, the Gary Speer (34) climbing party of four departed eastern Washington and drove to Carbon River Entrance. Th...
Mount Logan's “Independence Ridge”Gregg BlombergI had long wanted to climb Mount Logan and in the fall of 1963 I set out to find a group of men with the same ambition. It is not hard to get an able, qualified crew from the many excellent climbers ...
Mountains of the Middle Kingdom: Exploring the High Peaks of China and Tibet. Galen Rowell. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, in association with The American Alpine Club, 1983. XV + 191 pages, 47 black and white and 85 color photographs, 2 maps. ...
Chalten Massif, summary of activity. During the austral winter (July-August 2002), French Canadians Martin Bointeau and Claude Gagnon made the first winter ascent of Tomahawk (450m, TD+ 5.9 WI6) on Aguja Standhardt. Dry conditions (little ice) for...
The 2010 Alpine Club expedition set sail on November 25 from Tierra del Fuego aboard the Australian yacht Spirit of Sydney, skippered by Darrel Day and Cath Hew. On board were seven climbers: Derek Buckle, Mike Fletcher, Stu Gallagher, Richa...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, FAILURE TO HEED AVALANCHE WARNING, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTNew Hampshire, Huntington RavineOn December 20th three climbers were suiting up after breakfast at the Harvard Cabin when USFS Snow Ranger Jeff Lane entered the build...
Stanford Alpine Club. March 1955 saw Stanford Alpine Club members in both the Tetons, where an attempt was made on the Grand, and in the Sierra Nevada, where a successful ascent was made of the east face of Mt. Whitney. During April, May, and June...
Chicago Mountaineering Club: reports nothing specific in the way of a safety program. They run local trips and week-end trips during the May to October period. During these trips members and guests are given fundamental rock-climbing and safety in...
Manaslu Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Frank Nugent, co-leader, Calvin Torrens, Martin Daly, Harry O’Brien, Donie O’Sullivan, Philip Holmes, Dermot Somers, Mike Barry, Robbie Fenlon, Garry Murray, John Murray, William Forde, Leslie Lawrenc...
Sepu Kunglha Karpo Massif, Various Activity. The Nyangla Qen Tangla Shan in Eastern Tibet is topped by Sepu Kangri (6950m). After first seeing Sepu Kangri in 1982 from a plane while flying from Chengdu to Lhasa, I finally reached the area in 1996 ...
FALL ON ROCK – HASTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral RockOn October 3, Jake Martin (29) and I (30) decided to climb Central Pillar of Frenzy (five pitches, 5.9) on Middle Cathedral Rock, something moderate and w...
The First Ascent of Mont Blanc, by T. Graham Brown and Sir Gavin de Beer, with foreword by Sir John Hunt. London: Oxford University Press, 1957. 490 pages; ills. Price 70s.Published on the occasion of the Centenary of the Alpine Club, this is an e...
EXPOSURE, FROSTBITE, FATIGUE, WEATHER, LOSS OF TENT CONTAINING FOOD, FUEL, CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn April 22, 1992, the three member Korean “Pohang” party flew in to climb the Cassin Ridge on Mount McKinley. On May 4 they start...