AAC, Oregon Section. Our winter Section expedition was made to Smith Rock to construct an emergency rescue litter shelter. Jeff Alzner, Richard Bence, Bob McGown, Bob Spike, and others participated. The Section has plans for other litter shelters ...
Austin and Laoiju Stringham have opened a sandstone trad climbing area in northwest Yunnan Province. Accessed through the town of Liming (2,100m), two and a half hours drive west of the major city Lijiang, the sandstone walls lie within Loaj...
Mt. Bradley, South Face. In July, Blair Williams and Michael Schaefer climbed a new route (5.10 A3) on the south face of Mt. Bradley. The route takes a line to the right of The Gift (Carpenter-House-Twight, 1998) and left of The Pearl (Orgler et a...
FALL ON ROCK, FALL INTO MOAT, CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, Grand Teton, Mount TeewinotOn August 22, Larry L. Fahlberg (44) died while attempting a solo climb of the East Face Route on Mount Teewinot in Grand Teton National Park. Fahlberg was climbing al...
Taking advantage of weather patterns allegedly caused by El Niño, and assurances by Park Ranger Darryl Miller that the winter in the Alaska Range had been “extremely mild,” Jon "Jonny Blitz" Carpenter, Steve House and I flew onto the Ruth Glacier ...
Admiral Peak, Ak Su Valley, Pamir Alai, Kirghizstan. Jerry Hadwin, Clive Davis, Andy Lewington and I flew on July 18 on a new direct seven-hour flight from London to Tashkent, where we were met by our Russian hosts from the Moscow Engineering Phys...
High Peaks in the AntarcticIn a previous note* we questioned the existence of 15,000-ft. peaks in the Antarctic. Perusal of recently issued reports contained in Proceedings of the American Philosophical Society, Philadelphia, 1940 (Vol. 82, No. 5)...
Mount Kennedy, East Ridge. On June 19, Coloradan Kathy Nilson, and Canadians Allan Derbyshire, Ron Quaife and I were landed on the South Lowell Glacier at 6800 feet by Andy Williams in a Helio Courier. We intended to climb the South Lowell Glacier...
El Capitan, Quo Vadis. During the night of November 20-21 Jacek Czyz, solo, finished Quo Vadis (VI 5.9 A4/A4+), a new route near the Muir Wall and the Dorn Direct, with which it shares a couple of pitches, and left of the Nose. Of the 22 pitches, ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Lundin PeakOn October 11, 1980, Jerry Pruitt (33) assistant leader on a club climb sponsored by The Mountaineers, fell about 600 feet to his death after he slipped while descending Lundin Peak. The followi...
Ata Glacier, reconnaissance. The Alpine Club of Kobe University (ACKU) has been pursuing unexplored mountains for the past several decades. Our new target is the Kangri Garpo Mountains. More than thirty 6,000m peaks in this range remain unclimbed....
Central Wyoming Granite. Some fine routes have been done near Casper in Fremont Canyon and on Dome Rock. They are part of the Rattlesnake Range near Alcova and consist of granite domes or canyons. The pink granite is generally very sound, but the ...
The Ascent of Mt. WaddingtonWilliam P. HouseIT was in the spring of 1935 that a climbing trip into the Coast Range of British Columbia was first discussed bv Elizabeth Woolsey, Alan Willcox and the writer. By the end of May of the year following, ...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION, INADEQUATE BELAY, BAD WEATHER, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount WhitneyOn July 14, George Evans (43) and Bill Smith (40) were climbing the East Face of Mount Whitney, moving slowly, when the weather started to look...
New Arrigetch ClimbsJonathan Krakauer, Hampshire College Outdoors ProgramHELEN Apthorp, Jeff White, Mark Rademacher, Ben Reed, Holly Crary, Bill Bullard and I climbed the three remaining major unclimbed peaks in the unique Arrigetch: Melting Tower...
FALLING ROCKS AND OBJECTS, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon, Bestowal CrackI was on Werk Supp at the belay after the first pitch when a party on Bestowal Crack decided to set belay anchors in the Choss Gully (5.5-5.6 rated last pi...
Cerro Amarillo de Zenta, Ancient and Modern Ascents. Cerro Amarillo, of the Zenta range in the southeast of the Andes of Jujuy province, rises above forested hills and reaches a height of 3660 meters (12,008 feet). On July 30, our small party of t...
The Roads We ChooseA Himalayan seasonby Anatoli Boukreevtranslated by Beth WaldIn the Himalayan season of 1995, I made three ascents of 8000-meter peaks, beginning with Everest via the north ridge in the spring as part of the International British...
Alps and Men, by G. R. de Beer, 8 vo., 256 pages including bibliography and index, illustrated by xvi plates, twenty drawings and three maps. London: Edward Arnold, 1932, Price 16s. New York: Longmans, Green and Co. Price $5.00.This volume forms t...
Canadian Rockies, summary. After an eventful couple of years, the summer of 2008 and the winter of 2009 were relatively quiet. Given the short windows for the high peaks, and how few people are drawn to hard alpine climbing in what is a demanding ...