New Arrigetch ClimbsJonathan Krakauer, Hampshire College Outdoors ProgramHELEN Apthorp, Jeff White, Mark Rademacher, Ben Reed, Holly Crary, Bill Bullard and I climbed the three remaining major unclimbed peaks in the unique Arrigetch: Melting Tower...
FALLING ROCKS AND OBJECTS, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon, Bestowal CrackI was on Werk Supp at the belay after the first pitch when a party on Bestowal Crack decided to set belay anchors in the Choss Gully (5.5-5.6 rated last pi...
Cerro Amarillo de Zenta, Ancient and Modern Ascents. Cerro Amarillo, of the Zenta range in the southeast of the Andes of Jujuy province, rises above forested hills and reaches a height of 3660 meters (12,008 feet). On July 30, our small party of t...
The Roads We ChooseA Himalayan seasonby Anatoli Boukreevtranslated by Beth WaldIn the Himalayan season of 1995, I made three ascents of 8000-meter peaks, beginning with Everest via the north ridge in the spring as part of the International British...
Alps and Men, by G. R. de Beer, 8 vo., 256 pages including bibliography and index, illustrated by xvi plates, twenty drawings and three maps. London: Edward Arnold, 1932, Price 16s. New York: Longmans, Green and Co. Price $5.00.This volume forms t...
Canadian Rockies, summary. After an eventful couple of years, the summer of 2008 and the winter of 2009 were relatively quiet. Given the short windows for the high peaks, and how few people are drawn to hard alpine climbing in what is a demanding ...
FALL ON ICEBritish Columbia, Mount Dennis, Guinness GullyOn December 2, a 35-year-old doctor from the Seattle, WA, area was descending from the route Guinness Gully on Mount Dennis near Field, B.C. when he tripped and fell 20 feet. They’d finished...
The Great German School of Climbing: The KaisergebirgeRand HerronWHOEVER goes from western countries to the Alps for a season’s activity, usually thinks, first of all, of Chamonix, Zermatt, Grindelwald, perhaps of the Dauphine, or if the Eastern A...
THE INTERNATIONAL GEOPHYSICAL YEAR, 1957–58In response to a request from the International Council of Scientific Unions, the National Academy of Sciences-National Research Council, in February 1953, formed a United States National Committee to dev...
A REQUEST FOR CASE HISTORIES OF HIGH MOUNTAIN ILLNESSESOn December 30, 1958, a healthy experienced and excellently trained 21-year old skiier became acutely ill in the mountains near Snowmass Lake at an altitude of approximately 10,000 feet. I par...
The American Alpine Club 94th Annual Meeting, December 6-7, 1996New York? What the hell are they having it in New York for, anyway?”“The Club was based here for years, you know. This is the first time an event has been held here since they moved e...
East Face of the Central Tower of PaineArthur McGarr, Mountain Club of South AfricaTHE Central Tower of Paine in the Paine Range of Patagonia was climbed in the 1962/63 season by Don Whillans and Chris Bonington from the west via a route that invo...
GeographicalDistrictsNumber of Accidents1951-83DeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of Accidents1984DeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta1685536617241British Columbia173693496312Yukon Territory202251000Ontario16432204Quebec11228000East Arctic511...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE BELAY, FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FATIGUE, WEATHER Washington, Mount RainierOn February 28, 1986, the Gary Speer (34) climbing party of four departed eastern Washington and drove to Carbon River Entrance. Th...
Mount Logan's “Independence Ridge”Gregg BlombergI had long wanted to climb Mount Logan and in the fall of 1963 I set out to find a group of men with the same ambition. It is not hard to get an able, qualified crew from the many excellent climbers ...
Mountains of the Middle Kingdom: Exploring the High Peaks of China and Tibet. Galen Rowell. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, in association with The American Alpine Club, 1983. XV + 191 pages, 47 black and white and 85 color photographs, 2 maps. ...
Chalten Massif, summary of activity. During the austral winter (July-August 2002), French Canadians Martin Bointeau and Claude Gagnon made the first winter ascent of Tomahawk (450m, TD+ 5.9 WI6) on Aguja Standhardt. Dry conditions (little ice) for...
The 2010 Alpine Club expedition set sail on November 25 from Tierra del Fuego aboard the Australian yacht Spirit of Sydney, skippered by Darrel Day and Cath Hew. On board were seven climbers: Derek Buckle, Mike Fletcher, Stu Gallagher, Richa...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, FAILURE TO HEED AVALANCHE WARNING, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTNew Hampshire, Huntington RavineOn December 20th three climbers were suiting up after breakfast at the Harvard Cabin when USFS Snow Ranger Jeff Lane entered the build...
Stanford Alpine Club. March 1955 saw Stanford Alpine Club members in both the Tetons, where an attempt was made on the Grand, and in the Sierra Nevada, where a successful ascent was made of the east face of Mt. Whitney. During April, May, and June...