Chattel (Fitzroy). Carlos Capellas, editor. Servicio General de Información de Montaña, Barcelona, 1985. 46 pages, 13 black-and-white photographs 22 line drawings and sketch maps. Paper. Pesetas 300.The Cordillera Real has slowly been drawing grea...
Cordillera Alvear, Tierra del Fuego. On March 4, 1971 Rod Saunders, Echardt Drushke and Rick Hoare made the first ascent of Cerro Alvear (4500 feet), the highest peak in the Cordillera Alvear, some ten miles northeast of Cerro Olivia. On March 6 S...
Dragontail, Triple Couloir Route. In May, 1974 Leslie Nelson, Bill Joiner and I climbed the “hidden couloir” of the Wickwire-Stanley route, then traversed left into and up the prominent couloir in the center of the face and finally climbed the cou...
Spantik Attempt. Another group of Germans led by Herbert Streibel failed to reach the summit of Spantik.
Trango Tower Attempt. A British expedition gave up their attempt on the Trango Tower after Martin Boysen came close to being the victim of an unusual accident some 600 feet below the summit. On a difficult free and aid pitch, Boysen jammed his leg...
Shipton’s Expedition to the Southern Patagonian Continental Icecap. This expedition was primarily a scientific one and as such had no definite climbing programme. The members of the party were E. E. Shipton, leader, G. C. Bratt, surveyor, P. W. Ja...
Montana, Glacier National Park—On August 16, 1956, about 6:00 p.m., Mr. Lino Graglia (35) fell while running on a scree slope and suffered a simple fracture of the humerus (upper arm) of the left arm. His wife assisted him off the mountain—Mt. Hen...
The Provinces of France, edited by Doré Ogrizek for the “World in Color Series.” 508 pages, with many pictorial maps and other illustrations in color, appendices and index. London: McGraw-Hill Publishing Co., Ltd., 1951. Price, $4.20.Uniform with ...
Payachatas, Northern Chile. An expedition of the Club Andino de Chile, Santiago Section, traveled in October to Africa and then to the mountain towns of Putre and Murmuntane. From a 14,500-foot Base Camp on the northeastern shores of the great lak...
Cordillera de Ansilta. After being forbidden by the Chileans to climb on the mountains above Santiago, three men and two women from Trieste climbed in the Cordillera de Ansilta. They were Walter Mejak, leader, Bianca de Beaco, Fioretta Tarloa, Jos...
Moose’s Tooth, Ham and Eggs, Second Ascent and Trade Routification. A picture of the 3,000-foot south face of the Moose’s Tooth in a recent Climbing magazine article about the Ruth Gorge caught my attention. There was a narrow steep couloir on the...
FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO CREVASSE Washington, Mt. BakerOn October 6, William Byl (43) and Frank Forester (48) fell 20-40 feet into a crevasse on the Coleman Glacier on Mt. Baker. They were roped when one of them slipped and pulled the other one wit...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Although the great majority of climbing was done on weekends at Devils Lake, Wisconsin, and at the Mississippi Palisades in Illinois, several groups managed to range farther afield. In the spring one of our members j...
El Canónigo, Altar Group. The Italian Marino Tremonti returned to the Altar Group, where he had made in 1963 the first ascent of the Obispo, the highest peak in the group. This year with Ferdinando Gaspard, C. and L. Lorenzi he made the first asce...
Charm School Boutique and Dylan Wall free. In spring 2003 Allan Porter and I completed a new line on North Chasm View Wall, beginning on the Journey Home route and finishing on the Cruise, climbing the smooth shield between those two major crack l...
Chilkat and Takhinsha Mountains. In June and July, Chuck Warren, Gil Dewart, Walt Price, Marty Mushkin, Ed Kerwin, Linda Bolte, George Barnett and I visited these mountains southwest of Haines. Following a helicopter ride up the Kicking Horse Rive...
Trisul. Trisul (7120 meters, 23,360 feet) is now being climbed frequently. Two commercial groups were successful, one Italian led by Alberto Re and a German one led by Günter Kampf. An Indian expedition under the leadership of Samir Kumar Guha als...
North Brother, East Ridge. After failing to climb North Brother in various attempts, from a logging road up Murhut Creek, in June, 1970 Robert Yekel, Roger Beckett, Max Triboulet and I climbed to a notch on the east ridge, where we came face-to-fa...
Tupungato and Tupungatito, First Winter Ascents. The Spanish mountain guide and ski instructor at Farellones, Chile, Fernando Garrido, had attempted Tupungato in the winter of 1981. He succeeded in the same endeavor on October 16, 1984. He approac...
Alpamayo, North Summit. Kanji Shimamura, Yoshio Takano and Kazuhiro Nishimura left Huaraz on June 1 and placed Base Camp at 13,775 feet at the tongue of the Bailey Glacier on June 3 and Camp I on the plateau at 15,900 feet. They abandoned the sout...