Book Reviews AAJ
The Provinces of France

The Provinces of France, edited by Doré Ogrizek for the “World in Color Series.” 508 pages, with many pictorial maps and other illustrations in color, appendices and index. London: McGraw-Hill Publishing Co., Ltd., 1951. Price, $4.20.Uniform with ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Payachatas, Northern Chile

Payachatas, Northern Chile. An expedition of the Club Andino de Chile, Santiago Section, traveled in October to Africa and then to the mountain towns of Putre and Murmuntane. From a 14,500-foot Base Camp on the northeastern shores of the great lak...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Cordillera de Ansilta

Cordillera de Ansilta. After being forbidden by the Chileans to climb on the mountains above Santiago, three men and two women from Trieste climbed in the Cordillera de Ansilta. They were Walter Mejak, leader, Bianca de Beaco, Fioretta Tarloa, Jos...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Moose's Tooth, Ham and Eggs, Second Ascent and Trade Routifications

Moose’s Tooth, Ham and Eggs, Second Ascent and Trade Routification. A picture of the 3,000-foot south face of the Moose’s Tooth in a recent Climbing magazine article about the Ruth Gorge caught my attention. There was a narrow steep couloir on the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Fall into Crevasse, Washington, Mt. Baker

FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO CREVASSE Washington, Mt. BakerOn October 6, William Byl (43) and Frank Forester (48) fell 20-40 feet into a crevasse on the Coleman Glacier on Mt. Baker. They were roped when one of them slipped and pulled the other one wit...


Club Activities AAJ
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers

Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Although the great majority of climbing was done on weekends at Devils Lake, Wisconsin, and at the Mississippi Palisades in Illinois, several groups managed to range farther afield. In the spring one of our members j...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, El Canónigo, Altar Group

El Canónigo, Altar Group. The Italian Marino Tremonti returned to the Altar Group, where he had made in 1963 the first ascent of the Obispo, the highest peak in the group. This year with Ferdinando Gaspard, C. and L. Lorenzi he made the first asce...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Charm School Boutique and Dylan Wall Free

Charm School Boutique and Dylan Wall free. In spring 2003 Allan Porter and I completed a new line on North Chasm View Wall, beginning on the Journey Home route and finishing on the Cruise, climbing the smooth shield between those two major crack l...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Chilkat and Takhinsha Mountains

Chilkat and Takhinsha Mountains. In June and July, Chuck Warren, Gil Dewart, Walt Price, Marty Mushkin, Ed Kerwin, Linda Bolte, George Barnett and I visited these mountains southwest of Haines. Following a helicopter ride up the Kicking Horse Rive...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Trisul

Trisul. Trisul (7120 meters, 23,360 feet) is now being climbed frequently. Two commercial groups were successful, one Italian led by Alberto Re and a German one led by Günter Kampf. An Indian expedition under the leadership of Samir Kumar Guha als...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Olympic Mountains, North Brother, East Ridge

North Brother, East Ridge. After failing to climb North Brother in various attempts, from a logging road up Murhut Creek, in June, 1970 Robert Yekel, Roger Beckett, Max Triboulet and I climbed to a notch on the east ridge, where we came face-to-fa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile–Central Andes, Tupungato and Tupungatito, First Winter Ascents

Tupungato and Tupungatito, First Winter Ascents. The Spanish mountain guide and ski instructor at Farellones, Chile, Fernando Garrido, had attempted Tupungato in the winter of 1981. He succeeded in the same endeavor on October 16, 1984. He approac...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo, North Summit

Alpamayo, North Summit. Kanji Shimamura, Yoshio Takano and Kazuhiro Nishimura left Huaraz on June 1 and placed Base Camp at 13,775 feet at the tongue of the Bailey Glacier on June 3 and Camp I on the plateau at 15,900 feet. They abandoned the sout...


Book Reviews AAJ
Ascent

Ascent, edited by Allen Steck & Steve Roper. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco 1980. 272 pages, 8½ x 11, paperbound, illustrated. Price $14.95.Readers accustomed to Ascent each year in the Sixties and every other year in the early Seventies, an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Owir III

Owir III. Dr. G. Gruber was with Manfred Geilhofer on the South Barum Glacier, where they met up with the Germans Walter Pschorr and Barbara Anders. Geilhofer and Fräulein Anders climbed Owir III, which had been previously climbed by the Norwegian...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Shivling Ascent and Tragedy

Shivling Ascent and Tragedy. Six Japanese climbers led by Koichi Minami all reached the summit of Shivling by the north ridge. They established Base Camp on September 12 at Tapovan. On October 9 Katsuhiko Takeuchi, Atsushi Yokoyama and Hiroshi Han...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Adamant, Gothic, and Sir Sandford Groups, Northern Selkirks

Adamant, Gothic and Sir Sandford Groups, Northern Selkirks. Twelve members and friends of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club spent three weeks climbing out of Fairy Meadow and Great Cairn Cabins and a camp on the upper Austerity Glacier. Although f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Bhrigupanth

Bhrigupanth. Bhrigupanth (6772 meters, 22,220 feet) was climbed by an Indian team from Pune via the south face, the route of the first ascent in 1980 by the American women’s team led by Arlene Blum, though it was different above Camp III, where we...


Club Activities AAJ
British Columbia Mountaineering Club

British Columbia Mountaineering Club. Summer never really did visit the Vancouver area in 1973, and the BCMC schedule of 110 trips, including three camps, suffered accordingly. Nevertheless, the outings were popular, and good use was made of what ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Sita Chuchura

Sita Chuchura. Our expedition, composed of Guy Hiron, Guy Mattioni, Jean-Louis Guillet, Claude Hameau, Philippe Lataud, Ang Tarke Sherpa and me as leader, made the second ascent of Sita Chuchura (6611 meters, 21,690 feet). After a ten-day approach...