Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Paria Point, Sunlight Butress

Paria Point, Sunlight Buttress. In October, Ron Olevsky, Steve Johnson and I completed a new route on the east face of Paria Point in the Kolob Canyon section of Zion National Park. We had attempted this line three years earlier but were forced to...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Boulder Mountain Park

Colorado, Boulder Mountain Park. On August 13th Jim Erickson (age 24) was free-soloing a difficult section on the north side of the Fourth Flatiron. He fell about fifty feet to the ground, breaking his right leg and both wrists, tearing ligaments,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh Climbs by Indians, 1988

Himachal Pradesh Climbs by Indians, 1988. Menthosa (6444 meters, 21,140 feet) was climbed on July 30, 1988 by leader Soumitra Ganguly and Chinmoy Pal. Kulu Pumori was ascended on July 30, 1988 by leader Sanat Ghosh, Naresh Sabharwal, Sankar Manna,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Tanzania, Mawenzi, East Face

Mawenzi, East Face. The members of our expedition who made this climb were Dario Mozzanica, Bruno Deangeli, Giovanni Balossi and I. At dawn on February 12 we left our bivouac on the south side of Mawenzi and in 12 hours climbed five 13,000-foot ri...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Table Mountain, Northeast Buttress

Table Mountain, Northeast Buttress. For several years climbers have peered at the three east buttresses of Table Mountain from the Lower Saddle of the Grand Teton. Yet they remained unclimbed until this past summer when two of the three were ascen...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascade Mountains, Witches Tower, Northwest Buttress, Cashmere Crags

Witches Tower, Northwest Buttress, Cashmere Crags. In late September, Rick Piercy and I climbed this section of good granite. From the northwest col we started 20 feet right of the buttress, ascended obvious twin cracks and went left to the buttre...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection, Exceeding Abilities, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Canmore Area, Stoneworks Crag

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Canmore Area, Stoneworks CragAt about 1730 on July 10, 1994, Ian B. was climbing with two friends at the Stoneworks when he took a two-meter leader fall near ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Bojohaghur Duanasir Attempr

Bojohaghur Duanasir Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Austrian Günther Steinmair, American Dr. Michael Henry and Germans Hans Feith and me. Bojohaghur Duanasir (7329 meters, 24,045 feet) had first been climbed by Japanese by its west face an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Rakaposhi Attempt

Rakaposhi Attempt. After arriving at Jaglot on July 24, José Angel Cobo, Perfecto Rodríguez, Francisco José Ruiz, Iñaki Ruiz, Pedro Sánchez and I as leader set out with 18 porters through Barit and Dobar to arrive at Base Camp at 3750 meters on Ju...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Spalding Peak, South Face

Spalding Peak, South Face. John Hudson and Dick Williams climbed this new route, graded III, F7, A2, on July 14. From the base of the face they ascended the prominent, easy couloir near the center of the face, generally on the left (west) side, fo...


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club. 1974 was an extremely active year for the Colorado Mountain Club, despite the fact that our rapid growth rate of the last few years finally slowed down. In fact, the membership total for our 12 groups was only 4892 as of De...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, P 6100 and P 5720, Losar Valley

P 6100 and P 5720, Losar Valley. Climbers from Calcutta led by Gopal Roy established Base Camp at 4725 meters on August 23. On the 29th, Asim Kumar Chakraborty, Nilotpal Roy, porters Angrup Doje and Chhering Paldan Bodh Losar (Pandit) unsuccessful...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Andes, First Ascents in the Central Andes, 1993-1996

First Ascents in the Central Andes, 1993-1996. In the last three southern summers I did the following: Cerro de los Remolinos (3848 meters, first ascent, December 27, 1993, southwest side, easy) and two days later, Cerro Alto de Dolores (4110 mete...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Coast Range, Serra 5

Serra 5. On June 15 Dick Culbert and Glenn Woodsworth were landed by plane on the Scimitar Glacier near the mouth of Chaos Glacier. They packed down the Scimitar and skirted an icefall on the Radiant Glacier to camp at 6600 feet. From there they c...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection, Inadequate Belay, Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Geronimo

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE RELAY Utah, Rig Cottonwood Canyon, GeronimoOn January 22, 1994, a climber (19) was on Geronimo (5.8) when he lost his hold and fell 25 feet. He had not placed adequate protection, and his bela...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Peak 10,552, Death Canyon

Peak 10,552, Death Canyon. The past four summers have seen considerable activity on the very steep walls in the vicinity of the Snaz, the original 1964 route by Chouinard and Hempel. To the right (east) of the Snaz is the Fallen Angel (IV, F10), a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Mir Samir

Mir Samir. Hubert Schmid, leader, Philipp Albrecht, and Hans and Heinrich Pritschet of the Allgäu Hindu Kush Expedition were handicapped by illnesses. Even so Albrecht and Hans Pritschet made on June 19 the third ascent of Mir Samir (19,060 feet) ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada Range, Pinnacles National Monument

Pinnacles National Monument. Hard free climbing continues this year at Pinnacles. Reports in Climbing Magazine, January-February 1979, indicate Jim Beyer and Bob Sullivan (unaffiliated) have done several new routes, including Butter (F10), Digger ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Idaho, Mount Breitenbach, North Face, Lost River Range

Mount Breitenbach, North Face, Lost River Range. From July 13 to 16, Bob Boyles, Mike Weber and I made the first ascent of the north face of Mount Breitenbach. Bill March has told me that some years ago his party was turned back by very severe roc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Steele and Walsh

Steele and Walsh. A third Japanese party in the Yukon consisted of Masakatsu Masuda, Tetsu Nakanishi, Tohuru Sakamoto, Takuya Nakazono,Shunichi Sakanishi, Masao Nakamura and Tatsuo Inoue, of the Alpine Club of Kobe University. They ascended Steele...