Paria Point, Sunlight Buttress. In October, Ron Olevsky, Steve Johnson and I completed a new route on the east face of Paria Point in the Kolob Canyon section of Zion National Park. We had attempted this line three years earlier but were forced to...
Colorado, Boulder Mountain Park. On August 13th Jim Erickson (age 24) was free-soloing a difficult section on the north side of the Fourth Flatiron. He fell about fifty feet to the ground, breaking his right leg and both wrists, tearing ligaments,...
Himachal Pradesh Climbs by Indians, 1988. Menthosa (6444 meters, 21,140 feet) was climbed on July 30, 1988 by leader Soumitra Ganguly and Chinmoy Pal. Kulu Pumori was ascended on July 30, 1988 by leader Sanat Ghosh, Naresh Sabharwal, Sankar Manna,...
Mawenzi, East Face. The members of our expedition who made this climb were Dario Mozzanica, Bruno Deangeli, Giovanni Balossi and I. At dawn on February 12 we left our bivouac on the south side of Mawenzi and in 12 hours climbed five 13,000-foot ri...
Table Mountain, Northeast Buttress. For several years climbers have peered at the three east buttresses of Table Mountain from the Lower Saddle of the Grand Teton. Yet they remained unclimbed until this past summer when two of the three were ascen...
Witches Tower, Northwest Buttress, Cashmere Crags. In late September, Rick Piercy and I climbed this section of good granite. From the northwest col we started 20 feet right of the buttress, ascended obvious twin cracks and went left to the buttre...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Canmore Area, Stoneworks CragAt about 1730 on July 10, 1994, Ian B. was climbing with two friends at the Stoneworks when he took a two-meter leader fall near ...
Bojohaghur Duanasir Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Austrian Günther Steinmair, American Dr. Michael Henry and Germans Hans Feith and me. Bojohaghur Duanasir (7329 meters, 24,045 feet) had first been climbed by Japanese by its west face an...
Rakaposhi Attempt. After arriving at Jaglot on July 24, José Angel Cobo, Perfecto Rodríguez, Francisco José Ruiz, Iñaki Ruiz, Pedro Sánchez and I as leader set out with 18 porters through Barit and Dobar to arrive at Base Camp at 3750 meters on Ju...
Spalding Peak, South Face. John Hudson and Dick Williams climbed this new route, graded III, F7, A2, on July 14. From the base of the face they ascended the prominent, easy couloir near the center of the face, generally on the left (west) side, fo...
Colorado Mountain Club. 1974 was an extremely active year for the Colorado Mountain Club, despite the fact that our rapid growth rate of the last few years finally slowed down. In fact, the membership total for our 12 groups was only 4892 as of De...
P 6100 and P 5720, Losar Valley. Climbers from Calcutta led by Gopal Roy established Base Camp at 4725 meters on August 23. On the 29th, Asim Kumar Chakraborty, Nilotpal Roy, porters Angrup Doje and Chhering Paldan Bodh Losar (Pandit) unsuccessful...
First Ascents in the Central Andes, 1993-1996. In the last three southern summers I did the following: Cerro de los Remolinos (3848 meters, first ascent, December 27, 1993, southwest side, easy) and two days later, Cerro Alto de Dolores (4110 mete...
Serra 5. On June 15 Dick Culbert and Glenn Woodsworth were landed by plane on the Scimitar Glacier near the mouth of Chaos Glacier. They packed down the Scimitar and skirted an icefall on the Radiant Glacier to camp at 6600 feet. From there they c...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE RELAY Utah, Rig Cottonwood Canyon, GeronimoOn January 22, 1994, a climber (19) was on Geronimo (5.8) when he lost his hold and fell 25 feet. He had not placed adequate protection, and his bela...
Peak 10,552, Death Canyon. The past four summers have seen considerable activity on the very steep walls in the vicinity of the Snaz, the original 1964 route by Chouinard and Hempel. To the right (east) of the Snaz is the Fallen Angel (IV, F10), a...
Mir Samir. Hubert Schmid, leader, Philipp Albrecht, and Hans and Heinrich Pritschet of the Allgäu Hindu Kush Expedition were handicapped by illnesses. Even so Albrecht and Hans Pritschet made on June 19 the third ascent of Mir Samir (19,060 feet) ...
Pinnacles National Monument. Hard free climbing continues this year at Pinnacles. Reports in Climbing Magazine, January-February 1979, indicate Jim Beyer and Bob Sullivan (unaffiliated) have done several new routes, including Butter (F10), Digger ...
Mount Breitenbach, North Face, Lost River Range. From July 13 to 16, Bob Boyles, Mike Weber and I made the first ascent of the north face of Mount Breitenbach. Bill March has told me that some years ago his party was turned back by very severe roc...
Steele and Walsh. A third Japanese party in the Yukon consisted of Masakatsu Masuda, Tetsu Nakanishi, Tohuru Sakamoto, Takuya Nakazono,Shunichi Sakanishi, Masao Nakamura and Tatsuo Inoue, of the Alpine Club of Kobe University. They ascended Steele...