Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Neacola

Neacola. A complete article on the ascent of this remote peak appears earlier in this Journal.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dorje Lhakpa

Karyolung Winter Attempt, 1986. A joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition led by Kim Young-Ho attempted Karyolung by its northeast face. They had two camps above Base Camp. On January 25, 1986 Ko Heung-Lyul and Ang Chir- ing Sherpa reached 6400 meters ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary,1993

Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1993. The 1993 climbing season was essentially normal compared with the tragic season last year. The weather was better than normal and climbers generally exhibited more caution, contributi...

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Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Uttar Pradesh, Central Garhwal, Swachand, West Face, Attempt

Swachand, West Face, Attempt. Malcolm Bass, Julian Clamp and Simon Yearsley (U.K.) attempted the west face of Swachand (6721m) during September and October. Swachand was first climbed by the Austrians Messner and Spann raft during the incredibly p...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Dakshin Attempt

Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. A French expedition led by Philippe Berger failed to climb the southwest ridge of Annapurna Dakshin (South). The other three members, Vincent Couttet, Eric Fauret and Denis Leroy, reached their highest point of 6300 mete...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Terskey Alatau, Kuilu Range, Exploration and Various Ascents

Kuilu Range, Exploration and Various Ascents. The Terskey Alatau Range extends along the southern shore of Lake Issyk Kul. During Soviet times it was one of the most popular climbing venues in the Tien Shan, having three mountaineering camps based...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot and Aguja Guillaumet in the 1988-1989 Season

Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot and Aguja Guillaumet in the 1988- 1989 Season. There were three ascents of Cerro Torre, all by the Maestri bolt route: on November 10, 1988 by Americans Brad Schilling and Mike Clifford and by Spanish Catalan...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Fresno Dome, Torn and Frayed

Fresno Dome, Torn and Frayed. This short, four-pitch climb was done by Jack Forsythe and me in June. It lies on the right side of a prominent pillar a few hundred feet right of the Beckey-Stuart route. Three obvious pitches lead to a huge ledge fr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina and Chile, Torres Del Paine, Torre Central, South African Route, First Free Ascent

Torre Central, South African Route, first free ascent. On February 2, 2009, Ben Ditto, Sean Villanueva, and I summited the Central Tower of Paine via the South African Route, making the firstfree ascent of the 1,200m east face. The route was first...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Russia, Kamchatka

Kamchatka: It is reported that the highest summit on the island, Kluchevskaya (16,124 feet), has been recently ascended by two Europeans after a long expedition.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Attemp

Kangchenjunga Attempt. A Spanish expedition led by Mari Abrego attempted to climb the north face of Kangchenjunga. They reached a highpoint of 8400 meters on September 23.Elizabeth Hawley


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Colorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn June 1, 1988, about 1400, during a technical climbing patrol, two climbing rangers were attempting a new route on Checkerboard Rock, a small crag on Lumpy Ridge. The area...


Book Reviews AAJ
Fifty-Seven-Year Index, Sierra Club Bulletin, 1893-1949

Fifty-Seven-Year Index, Sierra Club Bulletin, 1893-1949, compiled by Dorothy H. Bradley and George Shochat. 138 pages. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1952.An index to anything is a godsend if done tolerably well, and these indexes are. They make thes...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordilleras Huayhuash and Raura, Jirishanca, Southeast Buttress Attempt

Jirishanca, Southeast Buttress Attempt. The Tirolean Andean Expedition consisted of Dr. Kurt Schoisswohl, Carlo Angreiter, Heinz Coleselli, Erwin Murg, Egon and Georg Wurm, Heinz Wurzer, Franz Oppurg, Hartwig Erdenkäufer, Richard Gerin and me as l...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Peaks in the San Juan Region, Central Andes

New Altitudes in the Pissis-Bonete-Ojos del Salado Region. New altitudes have been published by the Instituto Geográfico Militar Argentino now that the Argentine-Chilean border controversy has been settled. The new map (Carta Topográfica Fiambalá ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Chilean Ascents

Chilean Ascents. Juncal (20,046 feet) was ascended via the northwest glacier by the Chileans Espinoza and Vivanco in early 1961. This route had been previously ascended only by the Italians in 1934. The Chileans Tangol and Vásquez made the first a...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone, Loss of Ski Pole Baskets—Then Ski Poles, Starvation, Idaho, Mount Borah

FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE, LOSS OF SKI POLE BASKETS— THEN SKI POLES, STARVATIONIdaho, Mount BorahIn early September, Paul Kovatch (40) began his attempt of Mount Borah. This was his seventh try, and nearly ended his goal of reaching the highest...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Foraker, South-Southeast Ridge

Mount Foraker, South-Southeast Ridge. The south-southeast ridge of Foraker was climbed in May and June by Jean-Paul Bouquier, Gérard Créton, Jean-Marie Galmiche, Hervé Thivierge, my wife Isabelle, and I, French, and Werner Landry, American. The ...

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| Published 1976 | Author Henri Agresti


Accident Reports ANAM
Accidents 1953 Not Previously Reported — Montana, Mission Range, Grey Wolf

ACCIDENTS 1953 NOT PREVIOUSLY REPORTEDMontana, Mission Range, Grey Wolf—On May 31, 1953, Bob Pfeiffer, Martin Holznagel, Martin Faulkner, and Frank Hefferlin made an attempt on grey Wolf (9000 ft.). When they reached the 8000 ft. level it was 3:00...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Paria Point, Sunlight Butress

Paria Point, Sunlight Buttress. In October, Ron Olevsky, Steve Johnson and I completed a new route on the east face of Paria Point in the Kolob Canyon section of Zion National Park. We had attempted this line three years earlier but were forced to...