Himalaya und Karakorum by Toni Hiebeier. Zürich: Silva-Verlag, 1980. 248 pages, 134 color photographs. Price: 56 Swiss Francs.As former editor of Alpinismus and author of more than twenty mountain books, Toni Hiebeler is a well-known authority on ...
Yale Mountaineering Club. In 1950 the Club continued its program of training in rock- and ice-climbing techniques, with emphasis on the fundamentals of safe climbing. Members made numerous trips to the Shawangunks and New England cliffs, and climb...
Muhi Zom (Wala 334). This 21,135-foot peak above the Noroghi Khuh Glacier was climbed for the first time on July 27 by Shinichiro Fujii, leader, and Ken Hiroe, and on July 28 by Genki Funakoshi and Toyoshige Inoue. They made up the expedition of t...
Pumori Ascent and Tragedy. On April 18, Chris Leibundgut and I reached the summit of Pumori after an eight-day alpine-style ascent via the south ridge. Our expedition consisted of us two plus Doug White and Randy Kopal. We established Base Camp on...
Fitz Roy and other Patagonian Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Ricardo Czerniawski, César Fava, Guillermo Espoueys and me. We had hoped to climb the whole west face of Fitz Roy from the Cerro Torre valley, which would have been a new route to...
Kronpriz Frederik Bjerge, East Greenland. This British expedition, led by Stan Wooley, successfully climbed and explored in the Kronpriz Frederik Bjerge, south of Kangerdlugssuaq Fjord. The other members were Dr. Ian Campbell, Ted Courtney, Rob Fe...
FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION,FAILURE TO TEST ANCHOR, NO HARD HATWashington, LeavenworthThis accident occurred on June 14, 1987, to Bleecker Morse (37) and Jim Turk (30), as reported by Turk.Bleecker and I have climbed Icicle Road area a lot...
Shivling. After Hans Lanters and I acclimatized by reaching 6350 meters on Kedarnath Dome, we climbed Shivling by its west ridge in four days from Tapovan. We bivouacked at 5500, 5650 and twice at 5950 meters. We reached the summit at 5:30 P.M. on...
Adamant Group, Northern Selkirks. On July 16 and 17 Rob Taylor, Bill Thompson and I climbed the southwest ridge of Ironman in the Adamant group. The climb involved 1400 feet of mixed free and aid climbing on very solid rock. NCCS IV or V, F7, A2. ...
Illampu and Condoriri, Cordillera Real, New Routes, 1986. Stanko Mihev, Robi Jamnik and Andrej Gradišnik climbed in the Cordillera Real in 1986. From July 1 to 3, 1986, they climbed a 1200-meter-high route on the northwest face of Illampu (6368 me...
Various volcanoes, nontechnical ascents. Shortly after the New Year Jonathan Kreiss-Tomkins (U.S.) and partner made the first ascent of Cerro Nevado (5,988m), east of the mighty El Muerto. This volcano has been referred to as El Muerito, but the t...
During the afternoon on May 27, two experienced climbers, Chris Lee (38) and Chris Klinga (25), were attempting Doub-Griffith, a 5.11c 3-pitch traditional route that starts from a small ledge 150 feet above the base of Redgarden Wall. As Lee was c...
Latok II Attempt. [This peak is the same one attempted by an American expedition in 1978 and British in 1982 by the same route. It had been called Latok I previous to an Italian expedition, which interchanged Latok I and II. The Norwegians call it...
Return to the Alps, by Max Knight. Photographs by Gerhard Klammet. Edited, with a foreword and selections from Alpine literature, by David Brower. San Francisco: Friends of the Earth, 1971. 160 pages, 54 photographs in full color, 1 map. $27.50Thi...
Fisher Towers. In recent years, there has been a trend towards very fast repeats in the Fisher Towers. The spring of 1994 was no different and saw second ascents of some of the routes and speed ascents of others. Duane and Lisa Raleigh concentrate...
FALL ON ROCK WHILE RAPPELLING, MISCOMMUNICATION Arizona, Flagstaff, Takes a ThiefOn November 11, 1991, Tim Reid (31) was climbing with Rachel Perch (39) when the following accident occurred:After completing a lead I clipped off two anchor bolts an...
Nanga Parbat Attempt, Diamir Face. Dr. Kurt Schoisswohl, Dr. Michael Grüner, Robert Troier, Imgard Renzler and I as leader hoped to climb Nanga Parbat by the normal route on the Diamir Face. We reached Camp III. We then started a summit attempt on...
The Domelands and Sierra Nevada, Various Attempts and Ascents. During a week-long encampment in the mosquito-infested Dusty Basin, in August, 1995, we made one climb and one attempt. On August 19, two friends from Spokane, Steve and Sharon Reynold...
WILLIAM RICHARD HAINSWORTH 1896–1971William Hainsworth was born in Seattle, Washington on February 22, 1896 and died at Laguna Hills, California on December 4, 1971, after a long illness. He graduated from the University of Washington in 1917, wit...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. In October, Andrew Wingfield, Charles French, Gordon Scott and I attempted to climb the south face of Thalay Sagar. We placed Advance Base on the Phatung Glacier and climbed a rock buttress to reach Camp I at 5200 meters. Cam...