Dunagiri. Our members were Jordi Anglí, Manuel Broch, Josep Font- cuberta, Francesc Pañella, Manuel Quevado, Martí Vall and I as leader. We left Lata with 31 porters and in four days got to Base Camp on the Ramani Glacier on August 20. We placed C...
Zwischen Munjan und Bashgal II (Zentraler Afghanischer Hindukusch), by Wolfgang Frey. Göppingen, Germany: Arbeitsgemeinschaft "Klettern und Bergsteigen” der Ortsgruppe Göppingen e. V. im TVdN, 1968. 38 pages, 5 maps.No one thinking of organizing a...
Burnt Boot Peak, North Ridge. Across the middle fork of the Snoqualmie River, two miles southeast of Big Snow Mountain lies P 6480, now officially Burnt Boot Peak. Bill Bucher, Tom Oas and I climbed a new route, the north ridge. From the base of t...
Volcán Copiapó, pre-Columbian and Modem Ascents. This prominent volcano (6072 meters or 19,922 feet) is located on the Chilean-Argentinian border and west of the Ojos del Salado. In 1937 it was ascended by members of the Polish expedition that saw...
British Columbia Mountaineering Club. The club’s 80 odd scheduled trips this year were well attended and generally blessed by good conditions. Our ski camp to the Waddington Range ran into financial difficulties, but the main camp to Mount Robson ...
Mt Forel, reputedly the highest mountain on the island, was climbed on August 12th by a Swiss expedition organized by the Akademischer Alpen Club Zürich under the leadership of M. André Roch. The altitude of the peak is 11,100 ft.
Alpamayo-Quitaraju Group. Our expedition was composed of Jordi Colomer, Pere Xaus, Mariano Velasco, Manolo Martin and me. On June 21 we all climbed Loyacjirca (18,635 feet) by a probably new route, the northeast face. We then had to assist Kazuhir...
Himalaya und Karakorum by Toni Hiebeier. Zürich: Silva-Verlag, 1980. 248 pages, 134 color photographs. Price: 56 Swiss Francs.As former editor of Alpinismus and author of more than twenty mountain books, Toni Hiebeler is a well-known authority on ...
Yale Mountaineering Club. In 1950 the Club continued its program of training in rock- and ice-climbing techniques, with emphasis on the fundamentals of safe climbing. Members made numerous trips to the Shawangunks and New England cliffs, and climb...
Muhi Zom (Wala 334). This 21,135-foot peak above the Noroghi Khuh Glacier was climbed for the first time on July 27 by Shinichiro Fujii, leader, and Ken Hiroe, and on July 28 by Genki Funakoshi and Toyoshige Inoue. They made up the expedition of t...
Pumori Ascent and Tragedy. On April 18, Chris Leibundgut and I reached the summit of Pumori after an eight-day alpine-style ascent via the south ridge. Our expedition consisted of us two plus Doug White and Randy Kopal. We established Base Camp on...
Fitz Roy and other Patagonian Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Ricardo Czerniawski, César Fava, Guillermo Espoueys and me. We had hoped to climb the whole west face of Fitz Roy from the Cerro Torre valley, which would have been a new route to...
Kronpriz Frederik Bjerge, East Greenland. This British expedition, led by Stan Wooley, successfully climbed and explored in the Kronpriz Frederik Bjerge, south of Kangerdlugssuaq Fjord. The other members were Dr. Ian Campbell, Ted Courtney, Rob Fe...
FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION,FAILURE TO TEST ANCHOR, NO HARD HATWashington, LeavenworthThis accident occurred on June 14, 1987, to Bleecker Morse (37) and Jim Turk (30), as reported by Turk.Bleecker and I have climbed Icicle Road area a lot...
Shivling. After Hans Lanters and I acclimatized by reaching 6350 meters on Kedarnath Dome, we climbed Shivling by its west ridge in four days from Tapovan. We bivouacked at 5500, 5650 and twice at 5950 meters. We reached the summit at 5:30 P.M. on...
Adamant Group, Northern Selkirks. On July 16 and 17 Rob Taylor, Bill Thompson and I climbed the southwest ridge of Ironman in the Adamant group. The climb involved 1400 feet of mixed free and aid climbing on very solid rock. NCCS IV or V, F7, A2. ...
Illampu and Condoriri, Cordillera Real, New Routes, 1986. Stanko Mihev, Robi Jamnik and Andrej Gradišnik climbed in the Cordillera Real in 1986. From July 1 to 3, 1986, they climbed a 1200-meter-high route on the northwest face of Illampu (6368 me...
Various volcanoes, nontechnical ascents. Shortly after the New Year Jonathan Kreiss-Tomkins (U.S.) and partner made the first ascent of Cerro Nevado (5,988m), east of the mighty El Muerto. This volcano has been referred to as El Muerito, but the t...
During the afternoon on May 27, two experienced climbers, Chris Lee (38) and Chris Klinga (25), were attempting Doub-Griffith, a 5.11c 3-pitch traditional route that starts from a small ledge 150 feet above the base of Redgarden Wall. As Lee was c...
Latok II Attempt. [This peak is the same one attempted by an American expedition in 1978 and British in 1982 by the same route. It had been called Latok I previous to an Italian expedition, which interchanged Latok I and II. The Norwegians call it...