Bublimotin Attempts and Ascents. Five other teams were reported to have attempted Bublimotin (6000 meters) last year. An Australian team of Damien Gildea and Mark Nayar attempted it in late August, reaching 4700 meters. An Australian/New Zealand t...
Stanford Alpine Club. Although no major climbs were undertaken and no new routes were recorded, the Stanford Alpine Club was very active during 1962. Practice climbs were held every Sunday at local rock outcrops, and two or three weekend trips wer...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Our expedition was divided into two groups. The first, fifteen persons, most of whom were inexperienced in mountaineering, for the most part did not get far into the high-peak region, though three climbed Pico Ojeda. ...
Hallucinogen Wall, free attempt. In September and October I tried to free climb this route twice. On the first attempt, with Mike Shepard, we rapped to pitch 14 and climbed out from the top of pitch 14, all free at 5.12. Pitch 14 is a bolt ladder ...
Troll Wall, the Russian Route and Baltica. During the last quarter century, the most difficult routes on the Troll Wall have been the 1965 Norwegian Route (VI 5.10 A3), the 1967 French Diretissima (VI 5.10 A4) and the 1972 Arch Wall (VI 5.11- A4+)...
Valley of the Pillars, Wrangellia. After nearly a decade on Valdez waterfalls, Carl Tobin and I stepped up to the big ice of Wrangellia. Carl had known of the ice for years, but after an October traverse through Wrangellia I substantiated the rumo...
Washington, Mt. Rainier. On 2 August Miss Onyon (22), a member of the Peace Corps Training group, was descending en glissade (sitting) from Glacier Vista via a steep snow chute to the Nisqually Glacier. She lost control of her descent on the fast ...
Perfect Day for Bananafish and Occam's Razor. In Kolob Canyons, on the south side of the finger canyon immediately south of Nagunt Mesa, Simon Ahlgren and I climbed two new routes. We approached from the Lee Pass trailhead, leaving the trail at th...
Nudo Ayacachi, Cordillera Vilcanota; Huascarán from the east. A strong Spanish party sponsored by the Federación Española de la Montaña and led by Félix Méndez Torres established Base Camp on June 12 at 15,000 feet southeast of Coylloriti (17,723 ...
Mount Chitina, St. Elias Mountains. On September 20, Donnie Hunton and I were dropped off at Hubert’s landing strip at 2000 feet and hiked along the Chitina Glacier. September 21 and 22 were spent crossing the Chitina Glacier and moving camp to 44...
South Chasm View Wall, Dry Rubbed. In May Mike Pennings and I dropped into the South Chasm View Wall after hunting for a cup of coffee and bacon in Montrose. We were fired up for a new line we had eyed from the north side over the years.Considerin...
Tukuche, West Summit. A kind of French family “expedition” consisted of René Collet, his wife and daughter, two professional guides and a photographer. Monsieur Collet and guide Firmin Mollard reached the western summit on October 22. They had cli...
Iowa Mountaineers. Most of the club’s efforts on week-ends were channeled toward developing strong rock climbers, and especially leaders. Phil Fowler, vice-president of the club, assisted by Barbara Thomas, Richard Schori and James Kolotronis, spe...
Dunagiri. Our members were Jordi Anglí, Manuel Broch, Josep Font- cuberta, Francesc Pañella, Manuel Quevado, Martí Vall and I as leader. We left Lata with 31 porters and in four days got to Base Camp on the Ramani Glacier on August 20. We placed C...
Zwischen Munjan und Bashgal II (Zentraler Afghanischer Hindukusch), by Wolfgang Frey. Göppingen, Germany: Arbeitsgemeinschaft "Klettern und Bergsteigen” der Ortsgruppe Göppingen e. V. im TVdN, 1968. 38 pages, 5 maps.No one thinking of organizing a...
Burnt Boot Peak, North Ridge. Across the middle fork of the Snoqualmie River, two miles southeast of Big Snow Mountain lies P 6480, now officially Burnt Boot Peak. Bill Bucher, Tom Oas and I climbed a new route, the north ridge. From the base of t...
Volcán Copiapó, pre-Columbian and Modem Ascents. This prominent volcano (6072 meters or 19,922 feet) is located on the Chilean-Argentinian border and west of the Ojos del Salado. In 1937 it was ascended by members of the Polish expedition that saw...
British Columbia Mountaineering Club. The club’s 80 odd scheduled trips this year were well attended and generally blessed by good conditions. Our ski camp to the Waddington Range ran into financial difficulties, but the main camp to Mount Robson ...
Mt Forel, reputedly the highest mountain on the island, was climbed on August 12th by a Swiss expedition organized by the Akademischer Alpen Club Zürich under the leadership of M. André Roch. The altitude of the peak is 11,100 ft.
Alpamayo-Quitaraju Group. Our expedition was composed of Jordi Colomer, Pere Xaus, Mariano Velasco, Manolo Martin and me. On June 21 we all climbed Loyacjirca (18,635 feet) by a probably new route, the northeast face. We then had to assist Kazuhir...