Palcaraju Oeste, Ratz Fatz. On the west face of the west summit (6110m) a new route, Ratz Fatz (500m, TD), was established by Chileans Eduardo Mondragon, and Martin Waldhoer on July 25,2000. The route begins just right of a prominent rock spur nea...
Anglo-Danish Trans-Greenland Expedition. On April 21 John Anderson, Erik Hjelmar, Sven Poulsson and I left Kulusuk on the east coast on the first stage of a 720-mile sledge journey across the inland icecap. From the air strip at Kulusuk we commenc...
Tower Mountain, Southwest Rib, 1989. From afar, this route appears both south-facing and defined as a ridge. Close inspection revealed it to be a series of south west-trending ribs blending into one. Joe Cataloni and I discovered this on July 21, ...
Chobutse Attempt. All twelve members attempted Ramdung (5925 meters, 19,440 feet) unsuccessfully before going to Chobutse. Then seven of us tried to climb Chobutse (6685 meters, 21,932 feet) by a new route, the central southwest ridge. David Heath...
Jirishanca summary. The impressive southeast aspect of Jirishanca (6,094m [sometimes given as 6,126m]) was a focal point of Huayhuash activity in 2003. In June, Brits Nick Bullock and Al Powell, returning after a near disaster in 2002 when they we...
Chilkat Range. Chuck Warren, Dave Butherus, Ted and Steve Lewis, Duncan Crosby and I as leader visited the heart of the Chilkat Range in southeastern Alaska at the head of the Davidson Glacier in June. We climbed P 6658, the main peak south of the...
British Columbia, Selkirks, Swiss Peaks. On 17 July Donald David Wallbridge (35) apparently climbed at least one other peak in the vicinity of Rogers Peak Hermit area since he had signed the Cairn register on Sifton (9,563 feet) and had apparently...
In August 2009 Andy Baker, Jack Grinsted, and I climbed the obvious left-trending couloir on the southeast face of Maria Lloco (5,523m), a striking subsidiary peak west of Huayna Potosi. The finish involved three steep ice pitches up the headwal...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Crowfoot MountainOn August 13, 1989, F.E. (58) was hiking up Crowfoot Mountain. At 1100, he was ascending the small, relatively snow-free glacier on the West Face o...
There has recently appeared in the Revista Mensile of the C. A. I. (Vol. XLVIII, Sept.-Oct., 1929, No. 9-10, pp. 213-223) a very interesting article by one of our members, M. Strumia on the northern Canadian Rockies, giving an account of the climb...
Satopanth. One of the three Altitude Extrême expeditions climbed Satopanth by the normal route with bad weather and difficult snow conditions. Two members were carried away by a snow avalanche but were able to escape without injury. After starting...
Gasherbrum I and II. A Czechoslovakian expedition led by Robert Gálfy succeeded in climbing both of these peaks. Gálfy, František Šoltés and Ivan Urbanovic, Jr. climbed to the summit of Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak). Two women of the same expedition,...
The Torre Traverse (Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre). From January 21-24, 2008, Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley made a phenomenal first enchainment of these towers in a continuous alpine-style push, climbing from nor...
Everest Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Cécile Pelaudeix, Charles Moray, Jean-Michel Asselin, Michel Bordet, Guy Martin, Eric Dutrievoz, Jean-Paul Meurisse, Emmanuel Cauchy, Dominique Martial, American Tony Riley and me as leader. We arrived ...
Manaslu, East Face. The fourth ascent of Manaslu by a fourth route, the east face, was successfully completed by a German expedition led by Dr. Gerhard Schmatz. Other members were René Arnold, Dr. Volkert Gazert, Siegfried Hupfauer, Günter Kämpfe,...
Appalachian Mountain Club. A major effort to clean up deferred maintenance on the Club’s extensive trail system was carried out in the summer of 1956. The huts were visited by more people than ever. Lectures, as usual, were popular and included cl...
Tukuche Attempts. Two post-monsoon expeditions on the northwest ridge of Tukuche (6920 meters, 22,703 feet) were unsuccessful. Seven Britons led by Miss Isobel Inglis reached 5950 meters on October 28, while a nine-member French expedition led by ...
FALL ON ROCKNew York, Adirondacks, Upper Washbowl CliffOn August 16, Dennis Murphy (35) had reached the top of a climbing route on Upper Washbowl Cliffs in Keene Valley at about 6:10 p.m. when he lost his footing and fell more than 100 feet. New Y...
Mount Hayes, Northeast Ridge. On May 15, Tom Douglas, Fred Harbison and I started from the Trident Glacier (6,000 feet) up a new route on the southeast ridge of Mount Hayes in the central Alaska Range. About 500 feet up the route, Harbison had a m...
Library of Empress Marie LouiseIn 1933 there was dispersed in Berlin ( Martin Breslauer) a group of books which once formed part of the library of Empress Marie Louise, second wife of Napoleon I, later Duchess of Parma, Piacenza and Guastalla.Duri...