Mt. Kennedy, northwest face. As a two-man team, Jon Bracey and I wanted a challenging mixed objective we could attempt alpine style, and the northwest face of Mt. Kennedy fit the bill perfectly. In 1996 Jack Tackle and Jack Roberts climbed their P...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Lundin PeakOn May 9, 1982, Agris Moruss (40) fell 450 meters to his death. He was leading a student party of ten from the Boeing Alpine Club, with two other instructors, to the summit of Lundin Peak. He wa...
Italian Expedition to Tibet and Pakistan to Conduct Further Observations on the Altitude of Mount Everest and K2. (Professor Ardito Desio, who organized and was in overall charge of the group that undertook the new measurements, has kindly supplie...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn August 17, 1984, a climber named Ernie Milan described the following accident to park rangers.About 1200 on August 17, 1984, Milan was with a partner at the base of Lo...
Torres del Paine, Season Overview and a Note on Permits. The weather this season was the worst since at least 1996. From October to late March, we had maybe ten days of good weather for climbing. But March was excellent: we had more nice days in t...
Lexington Spire, East Face, Right Side, “Tooth and Claw.” This seven-pitch route ascends slabs, roofs and discontinuous systems to the right of the standard east-face route. On June 24, Dave Tower and I scrambled to the highest ledge at the base o...
STRANDED, WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, FOOD, AND EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Higher Cathedral RockOn May 15, Christopher Simmons (26) and Emily Craft (28) became benighted on the eleventh pitch of the North East Buttress route on Higher...
North Lemon Mountains, first ascent of The Spear and others. As our drop-off point was not a suitable base for climbing in the Lemon Mountains, Geoff Cohen and I left for the Frederiks-borg Glacier 19 miles away. Two days’ of travel were needed to...
MERL LAVOY1886-1953It was in the spring of 1910 that Herschel Parker and I first met Merl LaVoy. We were in Seattle completing the final arrangements for our 1910 Mt. McKinley trip when he volunteered to join us as expedition photographer. One loo...
Breidablik, Asgard and Other Peaks, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. Our German Alpine Club (DAV) Training Expedition was active on Baffin Island from June 30 to August 18. We established our Base Camp on the southeast bank of the Weasel River...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 27 January Robert Ellenberg (19), C. Neale Yoder (25), and Scott Stevens (19), apparently were descending Huntington Ravine between Central and Damnation Gullys. The reason for the fall was not known, but it is pr...
SHOULDER DISLOCATION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount ThroneOn August 24, 1988, five climbers were short-roping on moderate terrain on an intermediate rock climb as part of a warden service training climb. Just below the summit ridge, while one of ...
Various ascents. Our expedition included Stanko Mihev, Franc and Janeta Pusnik, Samo Rupreht, Matjaz Prislan, Marko Anzelak, Igor Plesivcnik, Peter Naglia, Peter Jeromel, and me as leader. We started from Malma on June 30, with 20 horses for the 1...
West Ridge of the Middle Teton. The long west ridge of the Middle Teton was ascended for the first time on August 4, 1955, by William Buckingham and Mary Lou Nohr. From the south fork of Cascade Canyon we followed a broad couloir into the lower en...
North Baird Glacier and Ratz Peak Area. Six Canadians, Roger Neave, Franz Bislin, Bill Perry, Mike Walsh, Bob Tustin and I, explored the North Baird Glacier on the Stikine Icecap to Boundary Peak 73 and crossed over to the south arm of the Dawes G...
Mount Berge, East Ridge and East Face, Glacier Park Wilderness. On June 23, about five miles up the Buck Creek Pass trail, Garth Ferber and I glimpsed Mount Berge. We crossed Buck Creek and ascended the wooded east ridge of P 7625 to 5800 feet. We...
K2, South-Southeast Spur Attempt. Jaime Alonso, Txema Cámera, Ramón Portilla, Juanjo Sebastián, Koldo Tapia, Martín Zabaleta, Sirdar Abdul Karin and I set up Base Camp on the Godwin Austen Glacier at the foot of the south face of K2 on July 14. We...
Nuptse, Northwest Summit. A five-person German expedition to Nuptse was led by Ralf Dujmovits. On November 2, they climbed the northwest ridge to the northwest summit (7742 meters, 25,400 feet), still about 400 feet short of the true summit.Elizab...
Mount Queen Mary, Northeast Face. In the Royal Group of the Canadian Rockies, south of Assiniboine, Mount Queen Mary has a spectacular long ice face on its unnamed northeast hanging glacier. The face was climbed this fall for the first time and ap...
Liayliak Valley, Pik 4,600m, north face. During the summer Taras Cushko, Sasha Homenko, and I (Lavrinenko) from Odessa put up a new route on the north face of Pik 4,600m. There was only one line on this face, the Bashkirov Route, which diagonals u...