Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Gannett, Chugach Range

Mount Gannett, Chugach Range. At first light on March 18 on a completely clear day Gary Hansen, Bill Long, Frank Nosek and I were flown to the upper end of one of the spurs of the Knik Glacier. From our landing spot at 7000 feet we went directly u...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Latok II Tragedy

Latok II Tragedy. Our expedition attempted Latok II (23,340 feet) by the west ridge, previously attempted by the Japanese in 1975. We were Don Morrison, Pat Fearnehough, Pat Green, Tony Riley and I. We reached Skardu on May 23 and established Base...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Southern Appalachian Section

Southern Appalachian Section. The primary objective for the new Southern Appalachian Section was to establish itself as relevant to AAC members as well as to the broader climbing community across the southern Appalachian mountains. Our membership ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Bryce

Mount Bryce. The middle peak of Mount Bryce was successfully climbed for the first time on July 27. The 11,100-foot summit was attained at 7:55 A.M. where a cairn was erected. The approach was from the Saskatchewan Glacier Hut, across Castleguard ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Quillujirca, Mission Control Peru

Kent McClannan and I climbed a new route on an unnamed peak west of Shaqsha in the Cordillera Blanca. [Editor's note: This peak is now known as Nevado Quillujirca (5,040m).] The granite wall, which tops out at ca. 16,000', is clearly visible from ...

| Published N/A | Author Cameron Tague


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mount McKinley North America, United States, Alaska

North America’s highest peak was climbed by a number of different expeditions. Most of them ascended the mountain via the West Buttress and visited only the main (south) summit. Those that reached the top successfully by this route were as follows...

| Published 1969


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Sikkim, Simvu Southeast

Simvu Southeast, Sikkim. A 15-man team from the National Cadet Corps was led by Major Puskar Chand. They trekked from Gangtok with 30 porters. They had no high-altitude porters. They crossed the Theula Pass (17,100 feet), built a log bridge over t...


Club Activities AAJ
New York Section

North Central Section. The North Central Section was without a chairman in 2006 as the former chair of eight years, Scott Christensen, resigned to finish his Ph D. in comparative physiology. Because of this, communication within the Section was a ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Parshui Valley

Parshui Valley. The German Naturfreunde (Nature Friends) Expedition was in the Parshui valley off the upper Munjan valley. The leader was Manfred Kaierleber; other members were Wolfgang Frey, Heinz Gall, Karl Gross, Karl Hiller and Gottfried Holch...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Kluane National Park Climbing Season; Mounts Logan, Kennedy and Alverstone

Kluane National Park Climbing Season; Mounts Logan, Kennedy and Al- verstone. During the 1984 climbing season in Kluane National Park, there were 16 groups that climbed or skied in the St. Elias Mountains. This was made up of 87 men and women who ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Fall on Snow, Hit and Dragged by Falling Climber, Inexperience, Misperception, Washington, Silver/Tinkham Peaks

LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FALL ON SNOW, HIT AND DRAGGED BY FALLING CLIMBER, INEXPERIENCE, MISPERCEPTIONWashington, Silver/Tinkham PeaksOn June 8, Joe Myers (40), Jacob Engelstein (40), and Phil Loe (58) were attempting to climb Tinkham P...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Rocky Mountains of Canada, Mt. Inglismaldie

Mt. Inglismaldie. New route. 1938, E. E. Bishop, D. R. Crosby. From Anthracite by way of the S. W. ridge in 5 h., thence following the crest and making the first ascent of Mt. Girouard.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Himalayas, International Himalaya Expedition

International Himalaya Expedition. Prof. and Mrs. G. O. Dyhrenfurth again led an expedition to the Himalaya, composed this time of Marcel Kurz, Dr. Winzeler, André Roch, James Belayeff, Hans Ertl, Albert Höcht, Piero Ghiglione and a number of cine...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Peaks on Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island

Peaks on Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. An Italian expedition was led by Dr. Bruno Barabino and had as climbers Dr. Giampaolo Guidobono Cavalchini, Dr. Giorgio Gualco, Dr. Franco Baravalle, Carlo Boati, Dr. Serena Sauli, Matteo Visconti di M...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Shisha Pangma, Second Ascent

Shisha Pangma. The Naturfreunde Expedition consisted of Hans Mautner, leader, Dr. Paul Alf, Thaddäus Dowbenka, Roman Findl, Egon Obojes, Karl Ölmüller, Kurt Pokos and Ewald Putz. Base Camp was established on September 18 at 16,850 feet. Camps I, I...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.), Kyrgyzstan, Pamir/Tien Shan, All Four 7000ers and Khan Tengri in One Season

All Four 7000ers and Khan Tengri in One Season. I departed Italy on July 2 and returned August 28. The following peaks were climbed in sequence. In the Pamir, Andrey Molotov, Denis Urubko and I summitted Pik Lenin (7134m) on July 15 four days afte...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Yacuma Group, Cordillera Real

Yacuma Group, Cordillera Real. Annibale Bonicelli was leader of an Italian expedition from Bergamo. Others were Rino Farina, Augusto Sugliani, Santino and Nino Calegari and Padre Giuseppe Vitali. They entered the Cordillera Real from Coocó and pla...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Vinson Massif

Vinson Massif. Vern Tejas climbed the highest peak in Antarctica in 14 hours from Base Camp to summit to Base Camp on December 11, five days after guiding two other men to the top. His only difficulties on the day-long journey, which began at four...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate Protection, New York, Harriman State Park

FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, Harriman State ParkOn June 1, 1985,1 was on the first pitch of a climb whose name and rating I do not know. I was about three meters from my last piece of protection on a hard trave...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded—Benighted (Late Start), Inadequate Clothing and Equipment, Exceeding Abilities, California, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Lembert Dome

STRANDED—BENIGHTED (LATE START), INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Lembert DomeOn September 7 at 2030, Philip Kast (22) and Sean McCarthy (25) were benighted and ledged out ...