On Ice and Snow and Rock, by Gaston Rébuffat. New York: Oxford Press, 1971, 192 pages, $15.00What happens when a how-to book on mountaineering is combined with a coffee-table picture book? The result is the most striking single volume on technical...
Patterson Bluffs, “The Sun Also Rises. " In September, Scott Cosgrove, Jim Zellers and I completed a free ascent of the Sunset Buttress Route, originally rated IV, 5.10, A2 (AAJ, 1986, page 156) on Patterson Bluffs above Balch Camp. The route had ...
FALL ON ROCK, SLACK IN BELAY LINEArizona, Pinnacle Peak, East Wall, Lizard LipOn September 23, 1991, two climbers were on Pinnacle Peak’s east wall. The lead was a 5.8 climb. The leader was about seven feet past a .5 tri cam, when he slipped. Slac...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Our expedition was made up of leader Dr. Eckart Gundelach, Karl Rössle, Thomas Mügge, Helmut Seitzl, Hubert Weinzierle, Gerhard Baur and me. We made our approach to Base Camp at 4200 meters from June 23 to 26. A reconnai...
High Sierra, Big Adventure. On August 5, Josh Schmidt (16), Jared Kraus (16), and Daniel Winetsky (15) embarked on an 18-day adventure in the High Sierra. Beginning at the Balls in Southern Yosemite, the three brushed up on the fundamentals of mul...
SAMUEL PRESCOTT FAY 1884–1971“Pete” Fay as he was known to his friends had been a member of the Club for 59 years at the time of his death last August. His qualifications for election in 1912 were four seasons in the Canadian Rockies beginning in ...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. An Italian expedition led by Carlo Buzzi failed to climb this mountain during August.
Appalachian Mountain Club. As in the past, club members participated in mountaineering endeavors throughout the world. Perhaps some of the most noteworthy rock climbing both in the U.S. and the British Isles has been that performed by Henry Barber...
Dhaulagiri II Attempt. A seven-member South Korean expedition led by Ryu Si-Dong hoped to climb Dhaulagiri II (7751 meters, 25,430 feet) by the south face to the east ridge. They had to give up on April 6 at 6300 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
NOEL E. ODELL 1890-1987The distinguished climber, geologist and friend, Noel E. Odell, died on February 21, 1987, as we were about to go to press. He became a member of the American Alpine Club in 1928 and was made an honorary member in 1936. A co...
Les Alpinistes Célébres by Henry de Ségogne and Jean Couzy. Paris: Editions d’Art Lucien Mazenod, 1956. 416 pages; 221 plates (8 in color). Price 6200 Fr. francs (approx. $18.00).In vast conception and noteworthy execution, the editors and 71 coll...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE AND INADEQUATE PROTECTION—Wyoming, The Tetons, Disappointment Peak. David Sheridan (28) and Chancey Bittner attempted a roped technical climb of Irene’s Arete on the South Side of Disappointment Peak on August 25. Sheridan ...
Mount Alberta, North Face. In mid September Kit Lewis and I made the second ascent of the north face of Mount Alberta. We spent a day walking from the Banff-Jasper highway over the Woolley shoulder to the northeast shoulder of Alberta. We spent th...
Mount McKinley, Northwest Buttress, Second Ascent, 1982. Alan Novey, David Shrimpton, John Rehmer, Jim Snyder, John Stolpman and I skied up the Kahiltna Glacier to Kahiltna Pass (10,000 feet) and climbed down to the Peters Glacier (8000 feet). It ...
ICE AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Slesse MountainEric Dirksen (24) and Seph Fraden (24) were approaching Slesse’s northeast buttress about 3 p.m. on August 1, 1980. The weather was hot and the route passes under a hanging glacier fro...
Mount Viets and 4811, Ascents. French alpininsts Erik Decamp and Catherine Destivelle made two first ascents in Antarctica. A full account of their climbs appears earlier in this journal.
New York Section. The beginning of any new decade brings with it a moment of reflection and analysis. During the 2000’s the New York Section Alpine Club Community almost doubled in size. Perhaps more important than membership growth, however, was ...
Denali, First Double Amputee to Summit. Korean climber Kim Hong Bin became the first double amputee to summit Denali, which he did via the West Buttress route. Bin had lost both hands to frostbite on a 1991 Denali accident.Denali National Park Rep...
Illampu. Our five-man expedition climbed Illampu (6362 meters, 20,873 feet) by the 1964 Yugoslavian route up the west ridge. Only Jan Häusler and I reached the summit on June 18. This was the first Norwegian ascent of the peak.Terje Kleiven, Norsk...
Illimani. We two made access through the village of Mina Urania by a long moraine which rises directly to the southwest face of Illimani. Our first attempt was in the middle of the face which we climbed in very difficult gullies, hoping to reach a...