Momhil Sar Attempt. Our expedition had as members Josep Cla, Joan Córdoba, Joaqim Cufí, Lluis Julià, Dr. Carlos de Mendoza, Francesc Xavier Miquel, Luis Olivas, Joan Ribas, Jordi Tosas and me as leader. We had hoped to climb Momhil Sar (7343 meter...

Diran, North Ridge. The six-man expedition of the Hirosaki University Alpine Club was led by Ken Takahashi. They climbed the north ridge, which had not been climbed before, although Austrians had descended it in 1985. On July 11, Takahashi, Suzuki...

Mount Moran, South Buttress Variation. On August 13, 1965, Peter Cleveland, Roland Fleck, and Jack Stauffer made an important variation on the standard south buttress route. From the second grassy ledge of that route a traverse was made to the wes...

Colorado College Mountain Club. The CCMC experienced a highly successful year thanks to the efforts of enthusiastic members and our president, Laurie Rehnebohm. Notable climbs included the east face of Crestone Needle by Ken and Lester Michaels; K...

Menthosa. Japanese led by Tsuneo Suzuki climbed Menthosa (6444 meters, 21,140 feet) at the end of August. On August 14, Ishikawa and Ms. Miyo Tsuki reached the summit, followed on the 15th by T. Yagihara and I. Mizuro and on the 16th by H. Yawaguc...

Huanacuni, North Ridge, P 5550. Four British climbers who met up in a bar in La Paz climbed Huanacuni (5796 meters) by a new route up the North Ridge to make the second, and first British, ascent of the mountain (June 15-17). Basecamp was then mov...

Waddington Area. During the summer of 1963, a group of Mazamas visited the Coast Range. During three weeks in the area, we climbed the main peak of Waddington and several other peaks. First ascents were made of the northwest ridge of Mount Jeffery...

FALLING ICEUtah, Provo, Stairway to HeavenOn January 4, 1994, M.M. (33) and three companions had hiked to the base of the frozen waterfall called Stairway to Heaven. Small pieces of ice had come down from a large icicle which did not connect at it...

Prospector’s Mountain, North Face, Yellow Jaundice. In June of 1977 Mike Munger and Kent Lugbill made a new route to the left (east) of the Raven Crack and to the right of yellow streaks in the rock wall. This climb of seven leads begins with a mi...

Northern Khwaja Muhammed Range. The Carinthian Hindu Kush expedition consisted of Karl Gritzner, Winfried Pretterebner, Werner Unterlass and Erhard Winkler. After an overland trip to Kabul, they continued over the Salang Pass to Qunduz and Kesem. ...

Pyramid Peak, Desolation Wilderness Area. Last summer I made several ascents on this peak and on a neighboring buttress. In July Steve Iverson and I climbed Pika Crack on the northwest face of Pyramid Peak. This is a crack right of the main dihedr...

St. Paul Peak, East Face Direct, Cabinet Range, 1981. Brad Weller and I climbed a chimney and dihedral system directly up the center of the steep east face of St. Paul Peak in early July, 1981. The route consisted of 10 pitches of rock climbing, t...

King Peak Reconnaissance. The Japanese Akira Aida and Hisao Nakadai represented the Renrei Alpine Club of Tokyo and made a reconnaissance of the south face of King Peak, which will be attempted by a large group in 1970. The two climbers reached a ...

Alberta, The Rockies, Mt. Eisenhower. On June 23, four experienced Edmonton climbers set out to climb the southeast ridge or face of the East Tower of Eisenhower. They were Patricia Payne (45), Ernie Kinsey, Jaro Mares, and Eric Hopkins.Top of the...

Abominable Snowman. Again the abominable snowman has caused a furore. Eric Shipton, leader of the post-monsoon British reconnaissance expedition to the S. side of Mount Everest, brought back excellent photographs of what his Sherpa porters declare...

North Howser Tower, Southwest Face, Bugaboos. After reading the title of this entry students of the minutiae of this journal might well ask if the real west face of the Howsers would please stand up. Claims to have climbed the west face have been ...

STRANDED, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount CoryOn August 23, 1981, two teenagers from Calgary decided to scramble up a mountain. About 200 meters above the highway, they encountered rock. The more adventurous youth continued; the wiser ...

FALL ON SNOW, FATIGUE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 16 at 1840, Christoph Haider (24) fell from below Denali Pass while descending the West Buttress route. Ranger Kevin Moore and others witnessed the fall and res...

Makalu Attempt. A Polish expedition led by Janusz Kurczab attempted the northwest ridge of Makalu but had to give up the climb on October 27 after reaching Camp IV at 24,275 feet. One member died in an avalanche on October 6. There were two women ...

Patagonia, Traverse. Carsten Birckhahn (Germany) and partners made a traverse from the Pacific to the Atlantic oceans across Patagonia in the spring of 1998. They started at the Pacific Ocean in Fiordo Calvo, then crossed the Hielo Continental Pat...