Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Hanuman and Rishi Kot, North Face

Hanuman and Rishi Kot, North Face. Our expedition was composed of Mario Blasevich, Canadian, Rafael Fernández, Dr. Juan Bejarano and me as leader, Spaniards. We were in Garhwal from July 29 to August 29. We had hoped to climb the south face of Dun...


Book Reviews AAJ
La Cordillera Di Huayhuash

La Cordillera Di Huayhuash by Annibale Bonicelli. Bologna: Club Alpino Italiano di Bergamo, 1968. 94 pages, 54 photos, 9 sketch-maps.In 1964, an Italian expedition led by Signor Bonicelli visited the Huayhuash range in Central Peru and made a numb...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Big Snow Mountain, East Butteress

Big Snow Mountain, East Buttress. Big Snow Mountain (6680 feet) lies north of the Snoqualmie Pass group. The east buttress is characterized by a prominent dihedral and overhangs along its crest. On May 11 Jeff Dial and I traversed the left side of...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile–Northern Andes, Cerro Doña Inés, Pre-Columbian Ascents

Cerro Doña Inés, Pre-Columbian Ascents. Although it had been ascended several times in the last few decades, no traces of pre-Columbian ascents had been reported for this well known peak, located some 30 miles north-northwest of the mineral area o...


Club Activities AAJ
Appalachian Mountain Club

Appalachian Mountain Club. This year saw the revival of the mountaineering training camps. A group of 10 people led by G. S. Janes spent two weeks in the northern Cascades. Emphasis was placed on backpacking and route finding in mountain terrain. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Kenya, Mt. Kenya

Mt. Kenya, both summits, and Kilimanjaro were also climbed by Miss Cameron and her guides.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Quitaraju

Quitaraju. Our expedition climbed the direct north face of Quitaraju (c. 19,850 feet). On July 19 four of the six of us reached the summit: Jean and Claudine Lescure, Alain Sauge and I.Philippe Bernadin, Club Alpin Français


Book Reviews AAJ
Mountaineering Maps of the World, Volume 1, Himalaya

Mountaineering Maps of the World, Volume 1, Himalaya, 1977, 329 pages. Price: 19,000 yen; Volume 2, Karakoram-Hindu Kush, 1978, 350 pages. Price 21,000 yen. Editor, Koji Echigo. Tokyo: Gakushu Kenkyu-sha. Publisher, Hiroshi Watanabe. Illustrated.T...


Club Activities AAJ
Princeton Mountaineering Club

Princeton Mountaineering Club. The Club finished in June 1950 a fairly active year—its first as a separate entity in the university. The renewal of the academic year in September found no decrease in interest. During the summer members had climbed...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Kohe Wakhan

Kohe Wakhan. The identity of this peak is in doubt. See the account immediately above. My information is not definitely accurate, coming from a badly written letter. They claim that Michel Guerin, Alain Rebreyend, P. Minelli, G. Many, Jean Plion, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest Attempts, 1989

Everest Attempts, 1989. South Koreans led by Park Young-Bae tried to make a winter ascent of the southwest face of Everest but only reached a high point of 7800 meters on January 10, 1989.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Rincón

Cerro Rincón, Fitz Roy Group. This unclimbed peak (49°16' S; 73° 10' W) lies some 10 miles from Fitz Roy at the western end of the granite intrusion which forms Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Pier Giorgio. The main summit (8136 feet) is of ice fortifie...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Freya, Southwest Buttress, Baffin Island, 1987

Freya, Southwest Buttress, Baffin Island, 1987. The first time I approached Windy Lake shelter in Auyuittuq National Park in the southeast comer of Baffin Island, it was late February. The temperature hovered around -25°F and wind was building. We...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Washington, Exfoliation Dome

STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Washington, Exfoliation DomeThis report came from Calvin Hebert (22) and Greg Belding (22).We started late in the morning on June 8, and as there is no trail, it took considerable time to approach the wall. We starte...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Shivling

Shivling. On June 5 Patxo Dávila, José Luis Fernández Bedia, José Carlos Tamayo and I reached the summit of Shivling (6543 meters, 21,467 feet) by its south buttress. We left Uttarkashi on May 24 with ten porters, a cook and a liaison officer. Thr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Bridgland, East Face

Mount Bridgland, East Face. A spell of dry, clear weather the third week of August provided the impetus for a trek up the valley of the Miette to seek a new route on the towering form of Mount Bridgland. By noon the next day, McCarty, Brian Leo, a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Artesonraju, Southwest Face

Artesonraju, Southwest Face. On June 8, Andrej Gaspari and Štefan Mlinaric climbed a new fall-line route on the southwest face of Artesonraju directly to the summit, which they have named in memory of Marija Frantar. They descended the Austrian ro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Manantiales (5,100m), South Face, Direct a la Cubetera South America, Argentina, Central Andes

In Mendoza’s Tunuyán region, Diego Molina and Fernando Martinez made an interesting exploration on the south west face of Cerro Nevado Manantiales during (austral) spring. From Tunuyán they went to Refugio Portinari and continued past Refugio Sc...

| Published 2011 | Author Marcelo Scanu, Argentina


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall or Slip on Rock, Miscommunication, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Wind Tower

FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, MISCOMMUNICATIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Wind TowerOn May 4, Lon Abbott (45) and Avery McGill (25) were climbing Recon (5.6) on the Wind Tower. Both men were experienced climbers and wearing helmets. They had bee...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Hushe Karakoram Expedition

Hushe Karakoram Expedition. We spent two months in the Central Karakoram, exploring, climbing and geologising around the Masherbrum, Gondogoro, Chogolisa, Charakusa and Aling glacier systems, approaching from the Hushe valley. A late winter left s...