Patagonian Climbing, 1989-1990 Summer. At the end of the season (February 23, 1990), I have little to report. At the end of January, 1990, Italians Paolo Grippa and Eliana de Zordo were avalanche victims and swept into a crevasse below the Torre E...
Kettle Dome, West Face. Fred Beckey, Phil Warrender and I made the first ascent of this route on October 20, 1974; the first technical climb to be established on this small but attractive dome. A long poorly protected crack led us into the center ...
Torre Norte, El Husar de la Muerte. On January 30-31, 2009 Nicolas Gutierrez and I (both Chilean) opened a direct new line on the west side of the North Tower of Paine, north summit. It’s probably the first Chilean route on the three towers of Pai...
Himalayan Expeditions : There are at present several expeditions under weigh, one of which contains several American members. Herr Willi Merkl of Munich left at the end of April with a large party to attempt Nanga Parbat (26,629 feet), the trip ha...
Kangchenjunga. The Slovene expedition, which made a remarkable new route on the southwest ridge of Kangchenjunga South, ascended others of Kangchenjunga’s summits, made a new route on Talung and attempted the difficult east face of Kumbhakama East...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—CARABINER GATE CAME OPEN Colorado, Eldorado SpringsOn April 3, 1988, a male climber (27) fell while attempting a difficult move and tried to grab a sling on the last protection piece while falling. Last protecti...
Appalachia. Index to Volumes 11-25, 1905-45, Magazine Numbers 41-100, compiled by Benton L. Hatch. 95 pages. Boston: Appalachian Mountain Club, 1952.
Puscanturpa Norte Attempt and Ascent of Puscanturpa Sur, Southwest Ridge. Ambrogio Casartelli, Ambrogio Veronelli, Carlo Biancadini and I attempted the southwest face of Puscanturpa Norte (18,546 feet) from July 26 to August 1. From Base Camp at 1...
Northern and Central Andes Corrections. Several errors were printed in AAJ, 1993 on pages 177 to 179. Ansilta 2 was climbed on March 28, 1991, not on the 25th. Ansilta 1 is also called Mazuelo. One of the climbers of Tridente was Alejandra Quenan ...
Cerro O’Higgins, Patagonia. A party sent by the Federación de Andinismo de Chile to the area forty miles north of FitzRoy made the first ascent of the Cerro O’Higgins (9547 feet) on January 16. The climbers, W. Espinoza, E. García, C. Marangunic a...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATIdaho, City of RocksOn June 25, Tim Herron (early 30s) fell about five meters from Dire Straights. He was held by his rope, but he struck his head. He was lowered to a rock formation below, unconscious and having convulsio...
Denali Rehabilitation Project, 1976. Our special objective was to remove garbage from the 17,200-foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. We also interviewed many climbers and compiled attitudes and opinions about the numbers of climbers,...
ANALYSIS OF ACCIDENTSA breakdown of the accidents that occurred during 1954 and the cumulative totals are presented as in the past years. No marked change is noted. The descent still seems to be more hazardous than the ascent. The proper use of ra...
Lovelace, First Free Ascent. On April 25, Kennan Harvey and I wanted to try a free ascent of Moonlight Buttress in Zion, but a huge landslide had closed the canyon. Craig Luebben and Chris Harmston planned to aid ahead of us and photograph our att...
California, Yosemite Valley. On October 17th David Bryan (age 20) and Michael Harrison (24) were attempting a new route on the Glacier Point Apron. Harrison Jumared to the top of a rope he had fixed previously. The rope was attached by one carabin...
Gangotri Climbs. Two members of a team from Bombay led by Uday Kolwankar climbed Gangotri I (6672 meters, 21,890 feet) in July. Jogin I (6465 meters, 21,210 feet) and Jogin III (6116 meters, 20,065 feet) were climbed on August 21 and Jogin II (631...
Nyabubuya, Northeast Gully, Ruwenzori Group. Our party included Frank Eastwood, David Higgs, Dr. Arnold Pines, Roger Reid, Alan Roberts and me. We climbed Mount Baker, Mount Speke and the four peaks of Mount Stanley. In addition, on July 21 Alan R...
Tetons. During the past summer the following new routes and first ascents were established on the peaks of the Grand Teton National Park.
Mount Shuksan, North Face. Bruce Blume and I made the first winter ascent of this route on December 23, 1975.David Seman
SLIP ON SNOW, INATTENTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LawsonElizabeth N. (45) and John D. climbed Mt. Lawson (2795 meters), a moderate scramble, on July 9, 1994, and were descending a steep, narrow gully in good snow at a...