Feature Article AAJ
Makalu

MakaluGlenn PorzakSPORTING ONE OF the lowest success ratios (20%) of any of the world’s fourteen 8000-meter peaks, Makalu has been a true nemesis for the American Himalayan climber. At 27,825 feet, the fifth highest mountain in the world has been ...


Notes AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Maoist Activity, An Overview of the Post-Monsoon Season

Maoist activity, an overview of the post-monsoon season. Maoist rebels fighting against Nepal’s constitutional monarchy have been earning quite a lot of money by extorting funds from groups of climbers and trekkers. Not all groups have met this pr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Cordillera de los Andes, Ascents in the Tres Gemelos Massif, Mendoza

Ascents in the Tres Gemelos Massif, Mendoza. This massif, as well as many others, was visited by Fitz Gerald and the Countess Nadine Von Meyendorff in 1903. On January 8, 1995, Andres Amione and Glauco Muratti ascended Cerro Tres Gemelos (5241 m),...


Club Activities AAJ
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. In September the club ran an eight-day rock-climbing orientation class for 36 freshmen as part of the Freshman Trips Program at the College. This was our second year running, with two days added to the program as a r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Moab Area, River Road Area, Various Ascents

River Road Area, Various Ascents. Along the River Road (east of Moab), O’Grady (5.12+) was climbed in September by Jay Smith and Kitty Calhoun. This route is just right of Lighthouse Tower above Big Bend Recreation Area. In the same area in Februa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Jannu Attempt

Jannu Attempt. A three-man Japanese expedition led by Masayuki Shinohara attempted the French route on Jannu (7710 meters, 25,294 feet). All three members reached 24,275 feet on October 20 during a summit push without bivouac equipment. At one P.M...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir, Ascent

Tirich Mir, Ascent. It was reported that the French team of Pierre Bouchard and Lionel Boucher made the first French ascent of Tirich Mir on July 27 despite bad weather and deep snow on the lower section of the route. The pair established two camp...


Accident Reports ANAM
Maine, Mt. Katahdin

Maine, Mt. Katahdin. (See accident report) Following the second radio contact with Toque Pond, Park Supervisor Taylor dispatched additional rangers, who arrived at Chimney Pond at 8:00 A.M. Two inches of new snow had fallen. This party was told th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Northeast Greenland, Rignys Bjerg Mountains, Various Ascents

Rignys Bjerg Mountains, Various Ascents. Lying 130 kilometers east-northeast of the Watkins mountains, the Rignys Bjerg ranges have, until 1998, eluded all mountaineering expeditions on the grounds of cost and complex logistics. Covering an area o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Huntington, First Winter Ascent

Mt. Huntington, first winter ascent. On March 10,2007, Jed Brown (Fairbanks) and I flew from Talkeetna to the Tokositna Glacier below Mt. Huntington. On March 12 we climbed to the summit of Huntington via the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk) and d...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Descending Unroped — Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Edith Cavell

FALL ON ROCK, DESCENDING UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Edith CavellOn July 17, 1984, two climbers ascended the east ridge of Mount Edith Cavell. They had five years climbing experience, and were equipped with rock climbing equipment and o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Saltoro Kangri II Attempt

Saltoro Kangri II Attempt. Our expedition, Martin Albanus, leader, Offert Dorka, Fred Bässler and I, had such difficulties with baggage, our liaison officer and flight to Skardu that our time schedule was upset. After ascending the Kondus valley, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Paron Valley, La Esfinge, The Riddle of the Cordillera Blanca, New Route

La Esfinge, The Riddle of the Cordillera Blanca, New Route. On May 1, Todd Offenbacher, Bill Posner and I arrived in Lima, Peru, with the goal of climbing a new route on La Esfinge. Bill Posner traveled with us with the intent of helping us comple...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna II

Annapurna II. A five-man team from Australia, led by Timothy Macartney- Snape climbed Annapurna II by its south face and south spur. They set up Base Camp and Advance Base at 8525 and 12,150 feet on August 19 and 20. Camp I at 16,000 feet, Camp II...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, P 12,200, Wrangell-Saint Elias Mountains

P 12,200, Wrangell-Saint Elias Mountains. On April 23, my wife Siri, Paul and Donna Claus and I made the first ascent of P 12,200, a border peak due west of Mount Logan. Landing at 8400 feet on an unnamed glacier west of our summit, we established...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Karylung Winter Attempt, 1986

Gaurishankar Winter Ascent, 1986. Four South Koreans led by Seo Jeong- Bae were on the ridge in the southwest face, previously climbed by Wyman Culbreth and Ang Kami Sherpa in the spring of 1984. On January 16, 1986 Choi Han-Jo and Ang Kami (for h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
World's Seven Summits by First European Female

World’s Seven Summits by First European Female. Having recently climbed Aconcagua, Frenchwoman Dr. Christine Janin became the second woman, after Japanese Junko Tabei, to ascend successfully the highest points of all seven continents. Her first wa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Uttar Pradesh, Central Garhwal, Chandra Parvat, Attempt

Chandra Parvat, Attempt. In 1938, the first Austrian Himalaya Expedition made many ascents in the western Garhwal Himalaya, including the first ascent of Chandra Parvat (6728m), which was climbed via the west ridge by Leo Spannraft and Dr. W. Frau...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Dakshin Women's Attempt

Annapurna Dakshin Women s Attempt. Our Yugoslav women’s expedition attempted the nearly five-kilometer-long southwest ridge of Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South), which was first climbed in the autumn of 1978 by Japanese after their unsuccessful ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Ugamskiy Range, Kyzylbash Peak, Northeast Face, New Route

Kyzylbash Peak, Northeast face, New Route. On August 19-22, a team from Norilsk composed of Anatoly Paveliev (leader), together with Pavelieva Nelia, Sergey Kartsev, Nikolay Koltakov, Rimma Popova, and Natalia Raficova, established a new route on ...