Climbs in the Northern Waputiks(Canadian Rocky Mountains)H. S. Kingman and J. M. THoringtonTHE day of the packtrain is passing. At least, it seems so as one watches the working gangs on the road to Bow Lake. Where once the trail wound through the ...

Ogre, second ascent and Ogre III, first ascent. On July 21 the team of Urs Stöcker, Iwan Wolf, and me stood on the summit of the Ogre (7285m). Having succeeded on the first ascent of the extremely difficult Ogre III (ca 6800m) on July 1, we concen...

The Confessions of Aleister Crowley, an Autobiography, New York, Bantam Books, 1971, 1058 pages, 32 pages of photographs, $1.95 (also in hardcover, Hill and Wang edition.)When Aleister Crowley died in 1947, the London Press printed an unusual obit...

I first visited the Kyzyl Asker region in August 2007. We set up base camp at 3,750m, in the valley leading to the Kyzyl Asker Glacier, but as we knew nothing about the area, we spent much time exploring. Nearly all the ascents we made from the We...

The Mountain World 1954, edited by Marcel Kurz for the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. 224 pages, with 64 illustrations, 9 maps, and three sketches. New York: Harper and Brothers, 1954. Price, $6.00.The Mountain World is a most interesting a...

Everest, Ascents, Attempts and Tragedies via the Western Cwm in the Pre-Monsoon Season. The scene on Nepal’s side of Everest was not one of unmitigated joy despite all the summit successes. Four men died. The Base Camp area was crowded with 268 cl...

After two failed attempts with Wolfgang Russegger and Thomas Senf during our 2010 expedition to the southeast face of Kyzyl Asker (5,842m), I knew I’d go back. I would not have chosen the steep 1,200m line, with a variety of difficult ice and ro...

Nanda Devi’s Northeast FaceVlastimil Šmída, Czechoslovak Central Sporting OrganizationOur EXPEDITION FROM Ostrava,Czechoslovakia selected as its objective the nearly untouched northeast face of the highest mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya, 25,645-...

Sudarshan Parbat Ascent and Tragedy. V.S.S. Negi of the staff of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation died on June 13 of pulmonary edema while on an expedition to Sudarshan Parbat (6507 meters, 21,350 feet). The leader Budhi Singh Rana and five ot...

American Alpine Club Research Fund13. DIRT BANDSJoel E. FisherALLEY glaciers exhibit, in occasional instances, unique cross- glacier concentric parabolic markings, termed “dirt bands.” Figures 1 to 9 show examples of these beautiful and striking p...

Seven Summits. Dick Bass and Frank Wells, with Rick Ridgeway. Warner Books, New York, 1986. 336 pages, color photographs. $19.95.The late, and much lamented, Tom Patey, had, as readers of his luminous book, One Man’s Mountains, know, a fine ear fo...

Kyrgyzstan-China border changes. During our journey to the Western Kokshaal-Too reported above, we were surprised to find that sections of the border have been realigned. All current printed maps (Kyrghyzstan, a Climber’s Map and Guide, produced f...

Chachacomani and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. Over the last decade, the American Alpine Institute has been climbing in the Chachacomani region. We returned from June to September in 1994. We have in the past approached from Lago Khara Kkota by fo...

FALL ON ICE—PROBABLY FROM FALLING ROCK, EXCEEDINGABILITIES, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, UNWILLINGNESS TOCHANGE PLANSWyoming, Grand TetonOn August 25, James Stamper (27), Jeffrey Jarvi (34), David Riggs (30), and Thomas Burch (35) established a high cam...

Tukuche Attempt. Four Frenchmen led by Georges Derycke attempted to climb Tukuche (6920 meters, 22,703 feet) by its northwest ridge but had to turn back at 6700 meters on May 27.Elizabeth Hawley

Karka and six other peaks in and near the Chhantir Valley. For the fourth time in 11 years, Franco Brunello led an expedition of the Alpine Club (CAI) Section of Montecchio Maggiore to the Hindu Raj for exploratory mountaineering and trekking. In ...

Ascent of Hidden PeakPeter K. SchoeningThere is something exciting about expeditions. In part it must be the uncertainty of them. Perhaps this is adventure. But for Hidden Peak there was something even more. It could be the last chance for an Amer...

LEWIS L. DELAFIELD1863 - 1944The demise of Lewis Livingston Delafield, our senior ex-president, will be received with especial sadness by older members of the club. Joining our ranks when past the age for active climbing, his innate love of rugged...

You might recall our adventure in the fall of 2008, when we searched for the simplest route from Jag- dula Khola through chaotic gorges to reach Kanjiroba base camp. Following the paths of Tichy and Tyssen, we climbed Dudh Kundali (AAJ 2009). But ...

STRANDED, MISPERCEPTION—ROUTE RESEARCH, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CREATING A HAZARDOUS CONDITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan ZodiacOn Sunday, June 10, Dan McOmber (26) and Curt Chesney (25) fixed three pitches on the Zodiac (Grade VI) on El...