Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Traverse between Bivouac and Raynold's Peaks

Edited by H. Adams CarterUNITED STATESTetons, Wyoming. In the past summer several new routes were made in the Tetons. A few of the more important climbs follow.Traverse between Bivouac and Raynold’s Peaks. Lying between Moran and Snowshoe Canyons ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Coastal Mountains, Southeastern Alaska

Coastal Mountains, Southeastern Alaska. By eleven o’clock on July 13, Rich Mathies, Jerry Barnard, Jim McCarthy and I were on the beach at the snout of the Baird Glacier, where it almost meets Thomas Bay, not far from Petersburg. Our approach up t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Aleutian Islands

Aleutian Islands. An expedition of the Nagano Prefecture Alpine Association of Japan to the Aleutian Islands was led by Ichiro Yoshizawa, a different person from the one of that name who has been a member of the American Alpine Club. From July 14 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K2 Attempt

K2 Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Haruyuki Endo of the High Altitude Research Institute reached 7400 meters on the Abruzzi Ridge, but after the leader had difficulties apparently from the altitude at 5800 meters, the expedition was called off.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nuptse, Joint Attempt by the Left Buttress of the Central Part of the South Face

Nuptse, Joint Attempt by the Left Buttress of the Central Part of the South Face. Our expedition was composed of Italians Kurt Walde, Alberto Guelpa and me. On April 14, we placed Base Camp on the Lhotse Nup Glacier. The next day, four Canadians s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Peaks in Pangnirtung Pass Area

Peaks in Pangnirtung Pass Area. The Northumbria Baffin Island Expedition was composed of climbers from the northeast of England: Dave McDonald, Ken Rawlinson, Len Wilson, Dennis Lee, Steve Blake, Kevin McLane, George Simms and me. We arrived in Pa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Russia, Muisky Range, Pik Casteldefels, Salo; Pik 2,600m, Corredor Cor

Muisky Range, Pik Casteldefels, Salo; Pik 2,600m, Corredor Cor. Curro Gonzales, Vicente Holgado, and I, forming the second X-PLORE expedition, left Madrid on February 21 and flew to Chita in the Republic of Buryatia (Buryatskaya). Our goal was the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dorje Lhakpa Winter Ascent

Dorje Lhakpa Winter Ascent. A South Korean expedition succeeded in making the seventh ascent of Dorje Lhakpa (6966 meters, 22,854 feet) and did it in the winter. They climbed the west ridge. On December 16, leader Song Ki-Bo, Jung Woo-Chang and An...


Accident Reports ANAM
Inadequate Equipment for Nocturnal Diuresis, Weather, Washington, North Cascades

INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT FOR NOCTURNAL DIURESIS, WEATHER Washington, North CascadesOn August 19, 1988, four veteran mountaineers set out to ascend the West Ridge of Eldorado Peak in the North Cascades of Washington. The group was surprised by high win...


Book Reviews AAJ
La Cordillera Real de los Andes, Bolivia

La Cordillera Real de los Andes, Bolivia. Alain Messili. Los Amigos del Libro, Cochabamba, Bolivia, 1984. 222 pages, 9 color and 80 black-and-white photographs, 14 sketch maps, bibliography. $20.00.


Book Reviews AAJ
East of Katmandu

East of Katmandu, by Thomas Weir. 138 pages, 91 illustrations. Oliver and Boyd: Edinburgh and London, 1955. Price, 16 s.Small Himalayan Expeditions are becoming more and more feasible. Thomas Weir and his Scottish companions have played a great pa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile and Argentina—Patagonia, An Early Report on Patagonian Climbing in the Southern Summer of 1977-5

An Early Report on Patagonian Climbing in the Southern Summer of 1974-5. The expedition to Cerro Moyano did not succeed despite exceptionally good weather for Patagonia. Jure Skvarca and Mario Serrano could not overcome the technical difficulties,...


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club. Seventy-six people attended the annual two-week outing, July 17-30, in the Needle Mountains of southwestern Colorado. Fourteen peaks were climbed including Eolus, Windom, and Sunlight, the area’s three 14,000-foot summits; ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascade Mountains, Prusik Peak, First Winter Ascent

Prusik Peak, First Winter Ascent. Dave Anderson, Cal Folsom, Tom Linder and I made the first winter ascent of this peak via the west ridge in January, 1975.James McCarthy


Book Reviews AAJ
Mystery, Beauty, and Danger: The Literature of the Mountains and Mountain Climbing Published in English before 1946

Mystery, Beauty, and Danger: The Literature of the Mountains and Mountain Climbing Published in English before 1946. Robert Hicks Bates, Ph.D. Portsmouth, New Hampshire: Peter Randall, 2000. 228 pages, numerous historic photographs. $40.As an amat...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Poor Communication, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, The Bastille

FALL ON ROCK - POOR COMMUNICATIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, The BastilleOn July 9, Darrell Kangiser (25) lead the first pitch of The Bastille Crack (5.8). When he arrived at the anchor (~35 feet above the ground), his belayer (23) thoug...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, P 6666 Attempt

P 6666 Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Akira Takita was unable to get higher than 5200 meters on the northwest ridge of P 6666 (21,871 feet) because of bad weather. The unclimbed peak lies northeast of the Haramosh La.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Attempt on the Peak above the Biafro

Attempt on Peak above the Biafo. Delay in getting flown to Skardu prevented Doug Scott, Clive Rolands, Robert Wood and Ronnie Richards from having enough time in Baltistan to accomplish their objective. Instead the expedition turned into a reconna...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Lago Argentino and the Southern Patagonian Continental Icecap

Lago Argentino and the Southern Patagonian Continental Icecap. During January and February a strong Centro Andino Buenos Aires Expedition operated in this zone. Because of the failure of boat transportation on Lage Argentino, the group was diverte...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (5)

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (5)—On August 24, 1956 Sara Sussman (24), A. M. McDermott (30), Ed Ormitz (27), Jewel Mikle (30) and Jay LeBrun (28) were descending from a climb on the Grand Teton and had just gone down the head wall below the ...