Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dorje Lhakpa Winter Ascent

Dorje Lhakpa Winter Ascent. A South Korean expedition succeeded in making the seventh ascent of Dorje Lhakpa (6966 meters, 22,854 feet) and did it in the winter. They climbed the west ridge. On December 16, leader Song Ki-Bo, Jung Woo-Chang and An...


Accident Reports ANAM
Inadequate Equipment for Nocturnal Diuresis, Weather, Washington, North Cascades

INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT FOR NOCTURNAL DIURESIS, WEATHER Washington, North CascadesOn August 19, 1988, four veteran mountaineers set out to ascend the West Ridge of Eldorado Peak in the North Cascades of Washington. The group was surprised by high win...


Book Reviews AAJ
La Cordillera Real de los Andes, Bolivia

La Cordillera Real de los Andes, Bolivia. Alain Messili. Los Amigos del Libro, Cochabamba, Bolivia, 1984. 222 pages, 9 color and 80 black-and-white photographs, 14 sketch maps, bibliography. $20.00.


Book Reviews AAJ
East of Katmandu

East of Katmandu, by Thomas Weir. 138 pages, 91 illustrations. Oliver and Boyd: Edinburgh and London, 1955. Price, 16 s.Small Himalayan Expeditions are becoming more and more feasible. Thomas Weir and his Scottish companions have played a great pa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile and Argentina—Patagonia, An Early Report on Patagonian Climbing in the Southern Summer of 1977-5

An Early Report on Patagonian Climbing in the Southern Summer of 1974-5. The expedition to Cerro Moyano did not succeed despite exceptionally good weather for Patagonia. Jure Skvarca and Mario Serrano could not overcome the technical difficulties,...


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club. Seventy-six people attended the annual two-week outing, July 17-30, in the Needle Mountains of southwestern Colorado. Fourteen peaks were climbed including Eolus, Windom, and Sunlight, the area’s three 14,000-foot summits; ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascade Mountains, Prusik Peak, First Winter Ascent

Prusik Peak, First Winter Ascent. Dave Anderson, Cal Folsom, Tom Linder and I made the first winter ascent of this peak via the west ridge in January, 1975.James McCarthy


Book Reviews AAJ
Mystery, Beauty, and Danger: The Literature of the Mountains and Mountain Climbing Published in English before 1946

Mystery, Beauty, and Danger: The Literature of the Mountains and Mountain Climbing Published in English before 1946. Robert Hicks Bates, Ph.D. Portsmouth, New Hampshire: Peter Randall, 2000. 228 pages, numerous historic photographs. $40.As an amat...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Poor Communication, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, The Bastille

FALL ON ROCK - POOR COMMUNICATIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, The BastilleOn July 9, Darrell Kangiser (25) lead the first pitch of The Bastille Crack (5.8). When he arrived at the anchor (~35 feet above the ground), his belayer (23) thoug...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, P 6666 Attempt

P 6666 Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Akira Takita was unable to get higher than 5200 meters on the northwest ridge of P 6666 (21,871 feet) because of bad weather. The unclimbed peak lies northeast of the Haramosh La.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Attempt on the Peak above the Biafro

Attempt on Peak above the Biafo. Delay in getting flown to Skardu prevented Doug Scott, Clive Rolands, Robert Wood and Ronnie Richards from having enough time in Baltistan to accomplish their objective. Instead the expedition turned into a reconna...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Lago Argentino and the Southern Patagonian Continental Icecap

Lago Argentino and the Southern Patagonian Continental Icecap. During January and February a strong Centro Andino Buenos Aires Expedition operated in this zone. Because of the failure of boat transportation on Lage Argentino, the group was diverte...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (5)

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (5)—On August 24, 1956 Sara Sussman (24), A. M. McDermott (30), Ed Ormitz (27), Jewel Mikle (30) and Jay LeBrun (28) were descending from a climb on the Grand Teton and had just gone down the head wall below the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, South Greenland

South Greenland. An Austro-German expedition was led by Toni Diirnberger and consisted of Ernst Lainer, Manfred Zühlke and Hans- Georg Voitl. Operating in the country above Danells and Patursok Fjords, they climbed on June 28 what was probably the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ganesh Himal, Ganesh VII, Attempt and Tragedy

Ganesh VII, attempt and tragedy. No one knows how far four Frenchmen got on Ganesh VII (6,550m), a peak on the Tibetan border that is not on any permitted list. They had taken an inexpensive permit for the trekking peak Paldor (5,903m), but contin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Spiti (Himachal Pradesh), Gyagar, Southwest Ridge

Gyagar, Southwest Ridge. An expedition of the Dogra Regiment, Indian Army, led by Lt Col. Haripal Singh Dhillon, climbed to the summit of Gyagar (6400 meters) on August 28 via the Southwest Ridge. Summitters were Hav. Lalit Negi, Subedar Devi Sing...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Olympic Mountains, New Climbs in the Needles

New Climbs in The Needles. A party of four, Jim Parolini, Hilton Keith, Joel Merkel, and I, climbed in this area during the past season. “The Arrowhead” was ascended from Martin Peak in a short but exposed class 5 climb. The first ascent of “Snift...


Book Reviews AAJ
Giovanni Segantini

Giovanni Segantini, by Hans Zbinden. Schweizer Heimatbiicher 43/44. 60 pages, with ten plates in color and 31 in monotone. Bern: Verlag Paul Haupt, 1951. Price, $2.25.Although the artist Segantini is forever associated with the Engadine, he was Au...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington - Cascade Mountains, Little Mac Spire, Southwest Arete

Little Mac Spire, Southwest Arête. On our third day in the Southern Pickets, Art Huffman and I were looking for a route that did not involve scrambling up some rotten gully to get to solid rock. On August 15, after a two-hour approach from a camp ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Chile

Central Chile. In March 1963 four University of Chile students led by C. Marangunic climbed in the group between the Christ the Redeemer and the Gemelos from a base in the Navarro valley and ascended as firsts: Navarro (14,961 feet), Zoológico (15...