Guide to the John Muir Trail and the High Sierra Region, by Walter A. Starr, Jr. Fourth edition, xii+130 pages, with a foreword by Francis P. Farquhar, map in pocket at back. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1951.In a Prefatory Note, David R. Brower, C...
Two First Ascents in the Bolivian AndesJoseph P. PremIN Bolivia1 the Cordillera de los Andes that stretches through thewhole continent of South America reaches its greatest width, although not its greatest height. It consists essentially of the We...
Snow Dome, The Real Ice Porn to serac band. On October 13 Dana Ruddy, Cory Richards, and I climbed a waterfall ice route (800m, WI 5+) on the north face of Snow Dome. It is the fifth route on Snow Dome, and the first on the north face proper, arou...
Life Is Meeting by John Hunt (Lord Hunt of Llanfair Waterdine).London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1978. 286 pages, 28 photographs and11 maps. Price £ 6.95.This book tells the story of how John Hunt has managed to combine outstanding mountaineering with...
The Free Noseof North Chasm View WallPuzzling it out among the birds in Colorado’s Black Canyon of the Gunnison by Jeff AcheyRocks can possess a strange charisma. Any tourist can vaguely sense this power, but to a climber, with his or her specific...
Mallory and Irvine Second-Step Clues. When honorary member, Shi Zhan Chun, of the Chinese Mountaineering Association spoke at the Annual Meeting of the American Alpine Club in Los Angeles in December 1981, he revealed that the Chinese Everest Expe...
(d) ACCIDENTS IN MEXICOThe Club de Exploraciones de Mexico reports that since 1935 there have been about 100 deaths due to various types of accidents on the great volcanoes and mountain crags of Mexico. At least 30 of these have been on the volcan...
Washington, Old Snowy Mt. On 13 September Dale R. Cowen (58), Mary Ellen Cowen (55), Bernice Stearns (43), Una Davies (65), and Garnett E. Cannon (62), had been out for one day and were on their second day. They had a good night’s sleep and adequa...
From the village of Pelechuco, we (Daria Mamica-Galka, Jakub Galka, Wojciech Chaladaj, and Marcin Kruczyk) hired five mules and trekked to the Huancasayani Valley. To the best of our knowledge the valley had been the target of two previous exped...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn Wednesday, March 25, 1987, my girlfriend and I (25) arrived in Joshua Tree for two days of climbing. Our first route was a rather long and tedious 5.7....
Kohe-Farzand (P 6196) and (P 6096). The Gifu University expedition was in the Pegish Darrah in the Wakhan. It was composed of Yoshio Hirabayashi, leader, Hiroshi Fujii, Nobutaka Suzuki, Toshiyasu Umehara, Taiten Kotoo, Osamu Tokunaga and the Afgha...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Salathé WallOn October 13, Martin Klinger (26) of Germany was attempting to lead the first pitch of the Salathé Wall on El Capitan. He was with a party ...
Post War Mountain TrainingLT. COLONEL ERWIN G. NILSSONAt the close of World War II the United States Army had a large number of soldiers highly skilled and experienced in mountain warfare. These people were largely grouped in the 10th Mountain Div...
AAC, New York Section. The New York Section, in the interest of serving its rapidly growing membership, continued to expand the number and frequency of its activities in 1997. After hosting the December 1996 Annual Meeting of the Club, the section...
STRANDED - INABILITY TO REMOVE ANATOMICAL PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Bishops TerraceOn April 12, Tim Barthel (51), Jon Becker (50), Brant Herrett (55), and I, Steve Latif (46), decided to climb Bishops Terrace, a one-pitch 5.8 at the C...
Sky Island, by Weldon F. Heald. Princeton, New Jersey: D. Van Nostrand Company, Inc., 1967. 166 pages, 65 photographs, 16 line drawings, and 2 sketch maps on inside covers. Price: $5.95.This book will appeal to mountain climbers and others who, na...
Koh-i-Tundy Shagai Sha, Shkurigal Valley, Bashgal, Central Hindu Kush. Our expedition, M. Hore, K.J. MacDermott, R.C. Pelly, G.C. Taylor, P.S. Wesson and I, drove from England to Afghanistan in 13 days. After spending a week in Kabul, getting fina...
Bhrigupanth, West Couloir and North Ridge Attempt. I was able in the pre-monsoon to climb the west couloir in one day, though it was a long one. The climbing was snow and ice up to 70°, with a bit of mixed climbing near the top. I dropped over the...
Shishapangma, Southwest Face, Attempt and Tragedy. The idea behind this trip was to go over to the Himalaya with a group of friends and ski an 8000-meter peak. About half of the 14 8000ers have been skied by various lines, with the world-wide tota...
Unexpected GiftsA season in Patagoniaby Rolando Garibotti, Club Andino BarilocheI arrived in Chalten in mid-November with many intentions, but also with the willingness to let nature dictate my decisions. In an area that fosters some serious weath...