Kluane National Park Reserve, mountaineering summary and statistics. Mountaineering use was down by 50% in the St. Elias Ranges, with only 19 mountaineering expeditions registered. Fifty-four climbers and skiers spent 1,009 person-days in the St. ...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Snowqualmie PassOn March 28, 1982, Emmanuel Salazar (31) fell 25 meters when the piton to which his rappel rope was anchored pulled out. He sustained a broken leg. (Source: G. McKinney, SAR Mission ...
Gebel Gharib. Gebel Gharib (1750 meters) is the highest of the northern Red Sea hills and rises a sheer 1500 meters from the gravel plains of the western Gulf of Suez. I made the first ascent of the south buttress solo on May 7. I found a lichen-c...
STRANDED, MUSCLE STRAIN, CLIMBING ALONECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyAt 1318 on August 15, 1984, a phone call to NPS dispatch reported “calls for help” from the cliffs left (west) of Lower Yosemite Falls. Investigation revealed a stranded solo climbe...
Mt. Trinidad, Attempt, and Unnamed New Route. Lucy Regan, Brian Bigger, and James Marshall attempted the remaining natural line on Mt. Trinidad, the right-hand crack line. Regan and Bigger had attempted the route previously, reaching about one-thi...
Chablis Spire, Lichen Bouquet. The Wine Spires are a tight cluster of granite needles east of Washington Pass with sheer walls and tiny summits. During 1952 and 1953, Fred Beckey and partners scaled the four pinnacles and even today, Burgundy Spir...
VARIOUS FALLS ON SNOWCalifornia, Mount ShastaThere were seven climbing-related accidents on Mount Shasta last season, with most of them being on the Avalanche Gulch route. With a smooth snow surface, we had a few climbers who fell and tumbled 1,00...
Lemon Mountains, various ascents. During July and August an eight-person British Alpine Club-Alpine Climbing Group team led by Roy Ruddle visited East Greenland. Primary objectives were important new routes in the South Lemons and major first asce...
HENRY STURGIS GREW1874-1953Harry Grew, as he was known to his friends, had been a member of the Club since 1935. Almost his only climbs were made in three years during his late fifties, a fact of which he was rather proud, as few men begin climbin...
Tirokwa, Bilbo, Asgard, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. From June 20 to July 29, Nicholas D. Wood, Jonathan Ison, Ian Marriot, Sean Walsh and I took part in the Leeds Baffin Island Expedition. We centered around Summit Lake. To reach there...
British Columbia, Garibaldi Park, Wedge Mountain. On 28 December Nona Rowat (28), and three companions completed a ski-mountain tour in Garibaldi Park. They had been near 9,400 foot Wedge Mountain where they had experienced severe cold. The night ...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabaska/Andromeda ColOn July 31, 1988, Mike (25), a climber of moderate experience, set out to climb Mount Athabaska via the Athabaska/Andromeda Col. He was by himself, s...
Nevado Llongote, Lima-Limon. The day after setting up base camp by Laguna Llongote in the Zona Yauyos, Guillermo Meija and I checked the approach to our intended route, an ice line directly up the south face to the summit of Llongote (5,781m), and...
Edited by H. Adams CarterUNITED STATESTetons, Wyoming. In the past summer several new routes were made in the Tetons. A few of the more important climbs follow.Traverse between Bivouac and Raynold’s Peaks. Lying between Moran and Snowshoe Canyons ...
Coastal Mountains, Southeastern Alaska. By eleven o’clock on July 13, Rich Mathies, Jerry Barnard, Jim McCarthy and I were on the beach at the snout of the Baird Glacier, where it almost meets Thomas Bay, not far from Petersburg. Our approach up t...
Aleutian Islands. An expedition of the Nagano Prefecture Alpine Association of Japan to the Aleutian Islands was led by Ichiro Yoshizawa, a different person from the one of that name who has been a member of the American Alpine Club. From July 14 ...
K2 Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Haruyuki Endo of the High Altitude Research Institute reached 7400 meters on the Abruzzi Ridge, but after the leader had difficulties apparently from the altitude at 5800 meters, the expedition was called off.
Nuptse, Joint Attempt by the Left Buttress of the Central Part of the South Face. Our expedition was composed of Italians Kurt Walde, Alberto Guelpa and me. On April 14, we placed Base Camp on the Lhotse Nup Glacier. The next day, four Canadians s...
Peaks in Pangnirtung Pass Area. The Northumbria Baffin Island Expedition was composed of climbers from the northeast of England: Dave McDonald, Ken Rawlinson, Len Wilson, Dennis Lee, Steve Blake, Kevin McLane, George Simms and me. We arrived in Pa...
Muisky Range, Pik Casteldefels, Salo; Pik 2,600m, Corredor Cor. Curro Gonzales, Vicente Holgado, and I, forming the second X-PLORE expedition, left Madrid on February 21 and flew to Chita in the Republic of Buryatia (Buryatskaya). Our goal was the...