Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Siguniang IV, South Face to Southwest Ridge, Not to Summit; Siguniang North, First Ascent, Southwest Face

Siguniang, south face to southwest ridge, not to summit; Siguniang North, first ascent, southwest face. I’m at 5,500m. The ice is hard. My crampons rebound, blunted after three weeks. For the last eight years in Haute Savoie the Committee of the F...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Jannu

Jannu. A strong French expedition, led by Lionel Terray, climbed Jannu (25,294 feet). They followed the extraordinarily difficult route which they had reconnoitered in 1959 to within about 1000 feet of the summit. (See AAJ 1960, 12:1, pp. 156-7 fo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Mount Owen, Northwest Face

Mount Owen, Northwest Face. It is a characteristic of mountains and their climbers that routes are developed most extensively on the side offering the easiest approach. This would seem to be the principal explanation for the unclimbed status of th...


Book Reviews AAJ
A Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley

A Climber’s Guide to Yosemite Valley by Steve Roper. San Francisco;Sierra Club, 1964. 190 pages, 40 photographs with 15 line drawings by Al MacDonald. $4.75.Yosemite Valley, the finest pure rock-climbing area in the United States, is a paradox in ...


Feature Article AAJ
The Possible Altitude of K2

The Possible Altitude of K2George Wallerstein, AAC and Astronomy Department,University of WashingtonEditor’s Note. The Journal is publishing the brief article which appears below because the Editor feels that it is most important for it to appear ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Ice Alberta, Banff National Park, Louise Falls

On March 7, three climbers were climbing the left line of Louise Falls (II WI4+). The temperature in the Lake Louise area had been at around zero degrees C, then dropped to -26 degrees C in the couple of days before March 7. The lead climber had l...

| Published N/A | Author Parks Canada Warden Service, Marc Ledwidge, Edwina Podemski


Accident Reports AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest Winter Ascent and Tragedy

Everest Winter Ascent and Tragedy. Yasuo Kato, 33, was lost on Everest after becoming the first climber to reach the summit in a winter, solo attempt. His partner, Toshiaki Kobayashi, 34, who was following with bivouac supplies and met Kato just b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Red Beard, West Ridge

Mt. Red Beard, West Ridge. In early May Jamal Lee-Elkin and I, unable to fly into the Hayes Range because of uncooperative weather, flew into the Yentna Glacier south of Mt. Foraker. The Yentna is a relatively unvisited area, probably because the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Mount Herschel, Cape Hallett

Mount Herschel, Cape Hallett. The members of our party were all experienced mountaineers: Sir Edmund Hillary, leader, N. D. Hardie, Dr. H. J. Harrington, G. Hancox, M. R. Ellis, M. White, Dr. M. Gill, Dr. P. Strang and B. Jenkinson. On October 21,...


Feature Article AAJ
The Diluter-Demand Oxygen System Used During the International Himalayan Expedition to Mount Everest

The Diluter-Demand Oxygen SystemUsed During the International Himalayan Expedition to Mount EverestF. DUANE BLUME AND NELLO PACEIN 1969 the White Mountain Research Station, University of California Berkeley, was asked by Barry Hagen to assist with...


Club Activities AAJ
North Shore North America, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison

In June, Jared Ogden and I completed the North Shore (5.11+), a new route on the northwest face of the Big Island. The Big Island is a huge flat-topped formation off Cross Fissures Overlook. The climb follows an invisible line on excellent rock ...

| Published 2009 | Author Topher Donahue


Book Reviews AAJ
Footprings on the Peaks: Mountaineering in China

Footprints on the Peaks: Mountaineering in China. Zhou Zheng and Liu Zhenkai. Cloudcap Press, Seattle, Washington, 1995. $30.00.Footprints on the Peaks is a long-overdue and badly-needed counterweight to a decidedly Anglo-centric view of the histo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face

Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face. Nanga Parbat (26,660 feet) has now been climbed three times, each time by an expedition led by Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer and each time by a different route. Each ascent has been followed by the most awesome dissent bet...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Kamet and Abi Gamin

Kamet and Abi Gamin. In 1982 the Indian Military Academy completed fifty years of its existence. As a part of the Golden Jubilee, a commemorative expedition, led by me and consisting of its alumni past and present, was organized to scale Kamet and...


Feature Article AAJ
From the Sea to P 12,3000

From the Sea to P 12,300Walter R. Gove and William PillingAPPROACHED FROM THE WEST, the northern Fairweather Range rises out of the Pacific Ocean. Paralleling the shoreline is an old terminal moraine which acts as a natural dam that forms a large ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Mix-up Peak, The Misunderstanding

Mix-up Peak, The Misunderstanding. On October 25 Forest McBrian, Dave Jordan, and I established a new line on Mix-up Peak in North Cascades National Park. The route, which climbs the northeast face of the north summit, is partially visible from Ca...


Notes AAJ
Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Lailak Region, The Peaks of the Lailak Ak-Su Valley

The Peaks of the Lailak Ak-Su Valley. While there has been a recent surge in publicity about the Karavshin Ak-Su Valley, fewer American climbers are aware of the alpine rock walls of the Lailak Ak-Su Valley. We here print a number of photos of the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Attempt on Huantsán, Ascents of Yahuarraju, Santa Cruz Norte, and Other Peaks

Attempt on Huantsán, Ascents of Yahuarraju, Santa Cruz Norte, and Other Peaks, Cordillera Blanca. The expedition of the Nagano branch of the All-Japan Mountaineering Association was led by Eiichi Murai, with Yasuo Yokochi as deputy leader, and com...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Mt. Alverstone, West Face

Mt. Alverstone, west face. In early May Simon Yates and I climbed a new route on the 6,000 west face of Mt. Alverstone (14,565'/4,439m). We knew very little about the mountain, except that the west face was huge, and apparently only two routes had...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Falling Rock, Wyoming, Tetons

FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn July 4, Greg Smith and Melissa Malm (28) were climbing a route on Prospectors’ Mountain (3370 meters) named the “Upper Northeast Face” (II, F6).Around 1430 at the 3150-meter level, Smith led a traversing...