OTHER MISHAPS AND INCIDENTSThe annual review of accidents presented by this committee does not purport to be complete, although it is believed that the majority of serious or otherwise significant accidents are covered therein.Each year a number o...
FALL ON ROCK, ROPE CUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Yosemite ValleyOn September 2, 1989, Manuel Afonso (24) suffered multiple fractures when he fell approximately 12 meters to the ground from the Outer Limits climbing route (I,5.10a) at Cook...
Operation OppyJohn C. Oberlinjuly 12th, 1946 … The full moon, shining down upon the North Saskatchewan River that evening, silhouetted a curious spectacle. Three human figures piled high with packs and duffel, and carrying long poles in the manner...
Peninsula summary. As usual, there were numerous yacht journeys down the Peninsula, some of them for climbing. The season was somewhat busier and more successful than the previous few. The highlight of the climbing season was the first ascent of W...
WILLIAM DEGENHARDT1902-1956The many friends of Bill Degenhardt were saddened and shocked to learn of his passing on November 15, 1956. A lifelong outdoorsman and member since 1950, he had been hospitalized on October 31. He was born in St. Petersb...
Alberta, Mt. Edith Cavell. At about 0830 on Saturday, 19 February, four members of the Alpine Club of Canada: Jim Carlson (26), Peter Ford (35), Dr. Chris Smith (36) and Wayne Smith (35) (no relation to Chris Smith) arrived at the start of the Edi...
Charles S. Houston: Dr. Houston, well known to American Alpine Journal readers for his part in expeditions to Mts. Foraker, Nanda Devi and K2, was until recently Lieutenant-Commander Houston, U.S.N.R. During the war a flight surgeon in charge of v...
Nilkanth, fourth ascent. The Indian Himalaya offers alpinists unique challenges. Many of these mountain peaks have been discovered slowly due to their infamous reputation and bureaucratic obstacles. The British, who are most connected with this ar...
“Alpinism is an art of survival,” wrote Marko Prezelj, of Slovenia. “When it comes down to the question of life and death, there are no more ethical barriers for most of us. ‘Leaving things’ on the mountain has a final limit in leaving your bod...
Ak-Su in WinterWhere the Russians get their ya-yasby Pavel Chabaline and Igor Nefyodov, Russia translated by Yuri KolomietsThe Laylak Ak-Su in the Pamir-Alai mountain range is a paradise for alpinists. An entire constellation of grandiose granite ...
The Selkirks—Nelson’s Mountains. John F. Garden. Introduction by William Lowell Putnam. Footprint Publishing, Revelstoke, BC, 1984. 144 pages. 119 color photographs. 1 map. $29.95 (Canadian).In his introduction, Bill Putnam says, “This is the book...
WILLIAM WASBOROUGH FOSTER1875-1954In the death December 2, 1954, at Vancouver, British Columbia, of Major General William Wasborough Foster, D. S. O., C. M. G., D. V., of the Canadian Army, recipient of 15 military decorations, Canada lost one of ...
Trango Tower, southeast face, The Crux Zone. A Korean expedition comprising leader Kim Hyung-Il and members Jang Ki-heon, Jeon Yangjun, Kim Pal-bong, Wang Dae-shik, and I established base camp on July 12 at 4,150m alongside the Trango Glacier. Nin...
Denali DiamondBryan BeckerFROM MAY 24 TO JUNE 10 Rolf Graage and I put up a new route on the south face of Mount McKinley. It lies to the right of the Roberts-McCartney route (A.A.J., 1981, page 3). When we set out, the rangers thought we had no c...
KEVIN BEIN 1949-1988Kevin Bein, known affectionately as the “Mayor of the Gunks,” died at the age of 39 on August 1, 1988 in a rappelling accident on the Hörnli Ridge of the Matterhorn. He was climbing with his wife of twenty years, Barbara Devine...
K2 west face interview. The Russian magazine Verticalniy Mir (No. 68) interviewed K2 west face expedition leader Viktor Kozlov in September 2007, shortly after he returned to Russia from K2. Following is an excerpt.Q. How much useful information d...
Snowpatch Spire, Power of Lard. We arrived at the Bugaboo parking lot late in the afternoon of August 23 and had our first view of the Spires. The no-see-ums and black flies ate us alive, but we didn’t care. The next morning we got up early, pulle...
FALL ON ROCKMaryland, CarderockOn May 16, I was half way up Jan's Face, a climb at the north end of the Carderock Climbing Area, when we heard someone calling, in a weak voice, “HELP, I think I have broken my leg.” I called back, “We will be right...
On 30 May, 2003, the International Conservation Committee of the AAC announced that it will financially support a major new conservation initiative in Nepal’s Sagarmatha National Park, home of Mt. Everest. “Community-Based Conservation and Restora...
Mount Sir Douglas, Northeast Face, British Military Group, Rocky Mountains. On September 13 and 14 we made the first ascent of the northeast face of Mount Sir Douglas. We started up the right side of a triangular icefield that lies in the left par...