Nilkanth, fourth ascent. The Indian Himalaya offers alpinists unique challenges. Many of these mountain peaks have been discovered slowly due to their infamous reputation and bureaucratic obstacles. The British, who are most connected with this ar...
“Alpinism is an art of survival,” wrote Marko Prezelj, of Slovenia. “When it comes down to the question of life and death, there are no more ethical barriers for most of us. ‘Leaving things’ on the mountain has a final limit in leaving your bod...
Ak-Su in WinterWhere the Russians get their ya-yasby Pavel Chabaline and Igor Nefyodov, Russia translated by Yuri KolomietsThe Laylak Ak-Su in the Pamir-Alai mountain range is a paradise for alpinists. An entire constellation of grandiose granite ...
The Selkirks—Nelson’s Mountains. John F. Garden. Introduction by William Lowell Putnam. Footprint Publishing, Revelstoke, BC, 1984. 144 pages. 119 color photographs. 1 map. $29.95 (Canadian).In his introduction, Bill Putnam says, “This is the book...
WILLIAM WASBOROUGH FOSTER1875-1954In the death December 2, 1954, at Vancouver, British Columbia, of Major General William Wasborough Foster, D. S. O., C. M. G., D. V., of the Canadian Army, recipient of 15 military decorations, Canada lost one of ...
Trango Tower, southeast face, The Crux Zone. A Korean expedition comprising leader Kim Hyung-Il and members Jang Ki-heon, Jeon Yangjun, Kim Pal-bong, Wang Dae-shik, and I established base camp on July 12 at 4,150m alongside the Trango Glacier. Nin...
Denali DiamondBryan BeckerFROM MAY 24 TO JUNE 10 Rolf Graage and I put up a new route on the south face of Mount McKinley. It lies to the right of the Roberts-McCartney route (A.A.J., 1981, page 3). When we set out, the rangers thought we had no c...
KEVIN BEIN 1949-1988Kevin Bein, known affectionately as the “Mayor of the Gunks,” died at the age of 39 on August 1, 1988 in a rappelling accident on the Hörnli Ridge of the Matterhorn. He was climbing with his wife of twenty years, Barbara Devine...
K2 west face interview. The Russian magazine Verticalniy Mir (No. 68) interviewed K2 west face expedition leader Viktor Kozlov in September 2007, shortly after he returned to Russia from K2. Following is an excerpt.Q. How much useful information d...
Snowpatch Spire, Power of Lard. We arrived at the Bugaboo parking lot late in the afternoon of August 23 and had our first view of the Spires. The no-see-ums and black flies ate us alive, but we didn’t care. The next morning we got up early, pulle...
FALL ON ROCKMaryland, CarderockOn May 16, I was half way up Jan's Face, a climb at the north end of the Carderock Climbing Area, when we heard someone calling, in a weak voice, “HELP, I think I have broken my leg.” I called back, “We will be right...
On 30 May, 2003, the International Conservation Committee of the AAC announced that it will financially support a major new conservation initiative in Nepal’s Sagarmatha National Park, home of Mt. Everest. “Community-Based Conservation and Restora...
Mount Sir Douglas, Northeast Face, British Military Group, Rocky Mountains. On September 13 and 14 we made the first ascent of the northeast face of Mount Sir Douglas. We started up the right side of a triangular icefield that lies in the left par...
Mount McKinley, Winter Solo Ascent and Tragedy, 1984. The press reports a winter solo ascent of McKinley on February 12, 1984 by the noted Japanese climber, Naomi Uemura. He began the ascent on February 1 and climbed the West Buttress route. A gla...
FALL ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mt. MurchisonEight teen-age boys, participants in a government-sponsored outdoor training course and accompanied by two adult instructors, were traversing a slope o...
Mount Vinson, New Route. Slovenian alpinists Groselj, Klemenc, Voduake, and Stipe Boi from Croatia climbed a new route on the south face of Mount Vinson. We set up our tent on the Branscomb Glacier in the Adventure Network Agency Base at 2150 mete...
New England Section. The New England Section held its 13th annual Formal Dinner in March, once again at the elegant Henderson House in Weston, MA. New Hampshire legend Steve Arsenault was our guest speaker, whose topic was “From Cathedral Ledge to...
Denali, Youngest climber to Reach the Summit. Korean climber Kim Young Sik celebrated his 12th birthday two days before he summited via the West Buttress route on June 27.Denali National Park Reports
Illampu, South Face, Yacuma and Ancohuma from the West. In May we six climbers drove over the Huallata Pass to 1000 feet below the village of Cachi- pata to the Mina Candelaria del Illampu at 10,825 feet. With the help of four porters we carried o...
Huayna Potosí. during August García, Fuentes and Barría made the first Chilean ascent of the west face of Huayna Potosí by the central route. They were three days on the face.Gastón Oyarzún, Federación de Andinismo de Chile