On August 22 the most recent and most difficult route on the Grand Teton was established by Mike Lowe and me. This excellent climb, rated IV, F9, A2, ascends the most obvious and direct line leading from Valhalla Canyon to the summit of the Enclos...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Athabasca, North FaceOn August 15 at 0530, four Calgary-based climbers started their ascent up the trail to Mount Athabasca’s north face. The overnight low at 2,3 50 metres, recorded at a nearby wea...
JOSEPH NISBET LeCONTE1870 -1950The LeContes, father and son, exerted an influence upon the advancement of science and the love of mountains on the Pacific Coast that can hardly be matched. It began in 1869, when Joseph LeConte came from Georgia to...
Mt. Proboscis, Piton Karmik and various repeats. The story starts from a discussion we had with Paul Piana and Todd Skinner in Greenland, in the Tasermiut Fjord, in 1998. They told us about Proboscis and their route Great Canadian Knife, and we le...
Snow on the Equator, by H. W. Tilman. 265 pages, with 20 illustrations and 4 maps. New York : Macmillan, 1938. Price $3.00. Writers of travel and mountaineering books are especially apt to be single book authors, for to produce a second successful...
Alaska has been called the Great White North and the Last Frontier, a land where tough, cold peaks are scaled by gruff, bold climbers. So why was I a thousand feet up a new route sweating through my T-shirt? Sun-burned eyes squinted through the wh...
Everest: The West Ridge, by Thomas F. Hornbein. Photographs by members of the American Mount Everest Expedition and its leader, Norman G. Dyhrenfurth. Introduction by William E. Siri. Edited by David Brower. Sierra Club, San Francisco, 1966. 200 p...
My 23-year-old son Denali felt compelled to climb his namesake. While he was studying in San Francisco, he told me over the phone (I being in New Zealand) that he was climbing Denali with or without me. I told him that I would get clients right aw...
Ruwenzori proved a fertile climbing ground early this year when Miss U. Cameron with the Courmayeur guides, Edouard Bareux and Elisée Croux, climbed Mt. Speke, Alexandra Peak of Mt. Stanley, Mt. Luigi di Savoia, and Mt. Baker by a new route direct...
MORRISON PARSONS BRIDGLAND 1878-1948Morrison Parsons Bridgland was a Canadian surveyor and a lover of mountains who had been a member of the American Alpine Club since 1903. A full account of his climbing is given in our Annals.1 He was born at Fa...
Peaks near Ralam Pass, Kumaon. In the third week of May, St. Stephen’s College, Delhi, sent an expedition to the Ralam valley in the Pithorogarh district, in erstwhile Kumaon. The valley was chosen because very few travellers have visited it in th...
Tasermiut Fjord, Sermitsiaq region, Hermelnbjerg northwest pillar; Ketil region, Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, ascent; and Nalumasortoq, Non C è Senza Tre, ascent. Between mid-June and mid- July eight Norwegians visited the Tasermiut Fjord in the yac...
STRANDED—WEATHER, CLIMBING TOO SLOWLY, EXPOSURE— HYPOTHERMIA AND LOSS OF CONTROL GLISSADING, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mount Ranier, Liberty Ridge and Kautz GlacierOn Saturday June 29, the Quillen party of two was rescued from a summit cre...
Ascent of P 6640, Chinese KarakoramAdrian Burgess, Alpine Climbing GroupALL OUR ENERGIES were focused on the ascent of the north ridge of K2 from the Xinjiang Province of China. However, after two months of climbing, fixing rope and preparing the ...
Gasherbrum IV, Southwest Ridge, Attempt. Steve Swenson, Charley Mace, Steve House (U.S.) and Andy DeKlerk (South Africa) made an attempt on the unclimbed southwest ridge of Gasherbrum IV (7925m). The intent of the expedition was to climb the route...
On August 14 Eliza Kubarska and I, from Poland, finished our new route to the summit of 1,560m Maujit Qoqarassia [a subsidiary summit of 1,750m Agdlerussakasit, above the west bank of Torssukatak Sound—Ed]. The east face of this summit, which rise...
FALLING ROCKSWyoming, TetonsOn August 27, 1985, around 1015, David Gross (24) and Julius Picuri were attempting to climb the North Ridge of the Grand Teton. They reached a point at the very top of the Teton Glacier below the Grandstand. There was ...
On July 2, Paul Sternman (24) suffered a ground-fall of approximately 60 feet on Beware of Dog, a 5.l0d sport climb at the upper S-curves, Big Cottonwood Canyon. The route has four bolts. The first three cover the crux of the climb, followed by a ...
El GiganteThe first ascent of Mexico’s biggest wallby Cecilia Buil, Spaintranslated by Robyn Fulwiler and Margaret ThompsonIn 1996, geologist Carlos Lazcano, together with the Caving and Exploration Group of Cuauhtemoc City (GEECC), rappeled the e...
Season overview. The 2003-04 Patagonia season was one of marked contrasts, with much bad weather and heavy snowfall, but with one extended good weather period that lasted for an unprecedented nine days and sparked a flurry of activity (see individ...