My 23-year-old son Denali felt compelled to climb his namesake. While he was studying in San Francisco, he told me over the phone (I being in New Zealand) that he was climbing Denali with or without me. I told him that I would get clients right aw...
Ruwenzori proved a fertile climbing ground early this year when Miss U. Cameron with the Courmayeur guides, Edouard Bareux and Elisée Croux, climbed Mt. Speke, Alexandra Peak of Mt. Stanley, Mt. Luigi di Savoia, and Mt. Baker by a new route direct...
MORRISON PARSONS BRIDGLAND 1878-1948Morrison Parsons Bridgland was a Canadian surveyor and a lover of mountains who had been a member of the American Alpine Club since 1903. A full account of his climbing is given in our Annals.1 He was born at Fa...
Peaks near Ralam Pass, Kumaon. In the third week of May, St. Stephen’s College, Delhi, sent an expedition to the Ralam valley in the Pithorogarh district, in erstwhile Kumaon. The valley was chosen because very few travellers have visited it in th...
Tasermiut Fjord, Sermitsiaq region, Hermelnbjerg northwest pillar; Ketil region, Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, ascent; and Nalumasortoq, Non C è Senza Tre, ascent. Between mid-June and mid- July eight Norwegians visited the Tasermiut Fjord in the yac...
STRANDED—WEATHER, CLIMBING TOO SLOWLY, EXPOSURE— HYPOTHERMIA AND LOSS OF CONTROL GLISSADING, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mount Ranier, Liberty Ridge and Kautz GlacierOn Saturday June 29, the Quillen party of two was rescued from a summit cre...
Ascent of P 6640, Chinese KarakoramAdrian Burgess, Alpine Climbing GroupALL OUR ENERGIES were focused on the ascent of the north ridge of K2 from the Xinjiang Province of China. However, after two months of climbing, fixing rope and preparing the ...
Gasherbrum IV, Southwest Ridge, Attempt. Steve Swenson, Charley Mace, Steve House (U.S.) and Andy DeKlerk (South Africa) made an attempt on the unclimbed southwest ridge of Gasherbrum IV (7925m). The intent of the expedition was to climb the route...
On August 14 Eliza Kubarska and I, from Poland, finished our new route to the summit of 1,560m Maujit Qoqarassia [a subsidiary summit of 1,750m Agdlerussakasit, above the west bank of Torssukatak Sound—Ed]. The east face of this summit, which rise...
FALLING ROCKSWyoming, TetonsOn August 27, 1985, around 1015, David Gross (24) and Julius Picuri were attempting to climb the North Ridge of the Grand Teton. They reached a point at the very top of the Teton Glacier below the Grandstand. There was ...
On July 2, Paul Sternman (24) suffered a ground-fall of approximately 60 feet on Beware of Dog, a 5.l0d sport climb at the upper S-curves, Big Cottonwood Canyon. The route has four bolts. The first three cover the crux of the climb, followed by a ...
El GiganteThe first ascent of Mexico’s biggest wallby Cecilia Buil, Spaintranslated by Robyn Fulwiler and Margaret ThompsonIn 1996, geologist Carlos Lazcano, together with the Caving and Exploration Group of Cuauhtemoc City (GEECC), rappeled the e...
Season overview. The 2003-04 Patagonia season was one of marked contrasts, with much bad weather and heavy snowfall, but with one extended good weather period that lasted for an unprecedented nine days and sparked a flurry of activity (see individ...
OTHER MISHAPS AND INCIDENTSThe annual review of accidents presented by this committee does not purport to be complete, although it is believed that the majority of serious or otherwise significant accidents are covered therein.Each year a number o...
FALL ON ROCK, ROPE CUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Yosemite ValleyOn September 2, 1989, Manuel Afonso (24) suffered multiple fractures when he fell approximately 12 meters to the ground from the Outer Limits climbing route (I,5.10a) at Cook...
Operation OppyJohn C. Oberlinjuly 12th, 1946 … The full moon, shining down upon the North Saskatchewan River that evening, silhouetted a curious spectacle. Three human figures piled high with packs and duffel, and carrying long poles in the manner...
Peninsula summary. As usual, there were numerous yacht journeys down the Peninsula, some of them for climbing. The season was somewhat busier and more successful than the previous few. The highlight of the climbing season was the first ascent of W...
WILLIAM DEGENHARDT1902-1956The many friends of Bill Degenhardt were saddened and shocked to learn of his passing on November 15, 1956. A lifelong outdoorsman and member since 1950, he had been hospitalized on October 31. He was born in St. Petersb...
Alberta, Mt. Edith Cavell. At about 0830 on Saturday, 19 February, four members of the Alpine Club of Canada: Jim Carlson (26), Peter Ford (35), Dr. Chris Smith (36) and Wayne Smith (35) (no relation to Chris Smith) arrived at the start of the Edi...
Charles S. Houston: Dr. Houston, well known to American Alpine Journal readers for his part in expeditions to Mts. Foraker, Nanda Devi and K2, was until recently Lieutenant-Commander Houston, U.S.N.R. During the war a flight surgeon in charge of v...