Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, East Karakoram, Junction Peak, Ascent; Singhi Kangri, South Face, Attempt

Junction Peak, ascent; Singhi Kangri, south face, attempt. An Indian Army expedition led by Col Ashok Abbey visited the Siachen Glacier from August 31 to October 7. Moving relatively swiftly up the glacier, the expedition established base camp on ...


Feature Article AAJ
Mount McKinley — Proposed East Buttress Routes

Mount McKinley— Proposed East Buttress RoutesBradford WashburnAuthor’s Note: All of the climbs described in this article involve technical and logistic problems of such difficulty that a party attempting any one of them should be manned with unifo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Handhold Broke Off, Fall on Rock, No Belay Anchors, No Hard Hats, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Death Canyon

HANDHOLD BROKE OFF, FALL ON ROCK, NO BELAY ANCHORS, NO HARD HATSWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Death CanyonOn September 15, 1992, two experienced climbers (31 and 30) started up the Snaz shortly after noon after registering for their climb th...


In Memoriam AAJ
Cameron Tague, 1967-2000

CAMERON TAGUE1967-2000On July 6, Cameron Tague slipped off of Broadway, the ledge system that splits the Diamond’s imposing alpine wall in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Cameron was certainly no stranger to Longs Peak, as this was possibl...


In Memoriam AAJ
Duncan McDuffie, 1877-1951

DUNCAN McDUFFIE1877-1951When Duncan McDuffie was elected to membership in the American Alpine Club in 1927, he had for some time ceased to be an active climber of mountains; but his interest in preserving the scenic features of the West, and parti...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley

This section could never appear except for the great help given by many friends. Although this list is far from complete, we wish to thank particularly Dr. Adolf Diemberger, Dr. G.O. Dyhrenfurth, Sohli S. Mehta, Kamal K. Guha, Michael Cheney, Colo...


Book Reviews AAJ
Encyclopaedia of Mountaineering

Encyclopaedia of Mountaineering by Walt Unsworth. New York: St. Martin’s. 1975. 272 pages, 34 photos. $12.95.This is, quite simply, the worst reference book I have ever seen. Since reference books must be accurate to be usable, the multifold error...


Notes AAJ
A Further Request for Case Histories of High Mountain Illness

A FURTHER REQUEST FOR CASE HISTORIES OF HIGH MOUNTAIN ILLNESSESThe 22 year old, healthy young man who was rescued from the Snow- mass area in Aspen on January 1, 1959, started an interesting train of events. Initially the impression was that he ha...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Arrigetch Peaks, Parabola Peak, Northeast Buttress

Arrigetch Peaks, Parabola Peak, Northeast Buttress. On August 4, Lara Karena Bitenieks and I flew into Circle Lake to commence a three-week rock climbing trip in the Arrigetch peaks of the Brooks Range. After a two-day approach, we established a b...


Book Reviews AAJ
Over the Edge: The True Story of Four American Climbers' Kidnap and Escape in the Mountains of Central Asia

Over the Edge: The True Story of Four American Climbers’ Kidnap and Escape in the Mountains of Central Asia. Greg Child. New York: Villard. 2002. 284 pages. Hardcover. $24.95.Over the Edge is Greg Child’s fifth book. It chronicles the terror that ...


Feature Article AAJ
Mount Hickman

Mount HickmanFred BeckeyLOCALS and natives often think climbing is pointless and perverse. To be “weathered-in” at the Southeastern Alaska coastal town of Wrangell is an experience with frontier mentality, for fishing and drinking are the principa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Colombia, Central Cordillera, Pico Mayor, Nevado de Huila

Nevado de Huila, Central Cordillera, Pico Mayor. Guillermo Cajiao led our Colombian-American expedition of nine. Our purpose was to make a film asking the Colombian government to declare the nevado and surrounding area a national park. We left Cal...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Peak 5,777m; Jobo Le Coultre (6,478m) Northeast Face to Southeast Ridge; Lunag I Southeast Top, Southeast Face, Close the Door Asia, Nepal, Rolwaling Himal

After a flight to Lukla and a seven-day trek, including a rest day in Thame, a four-man team established base camp south of the Lunag Group at 5,200m, close to the Lunag Glacier. The site was superb, on grass, with running water and a nice collect...

| Published N/A | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Contiguous United States, Utah, Zion, Court of the Patriarchs, Enchainment

Court of the Patriarchs, Enchainment. During three days in late March, in Zion Canyon’s Court of the Patriarchs, Dan Stih and I climbed all three of the Patriarchs and the Sentinel in one push. This traverse also included a possibly unclimbed form...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, No Hard Hat, North Carolina, Whitesides Mountain, New Diversions

FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HAT North Carolina, Whitesides Mountain, New DiversionsLabor Day was the date that my climbing partner, Todd (29), and I (41) had set to finally climb Whitesides Mountain. About a month’s worth of plannin...


Book Reviews AAJ
Pakistan Trekking Guide

Pakistan Trekking Guide. Isobel and Ben Shaw. The Guidebook Co., HongKong, 1993. £11.96.Readers familiar with Isobel Shaw’s excellent general guidebooks on Pakistan, the most recent being Pakistan Handbook (Moon Publications, Chico, CA, 1990), hav...


Book Reviews AAJ
Early Travelers in the Alps

Early Travelers in the Alps, by G. R. De Beer. Pp. xi+204, including bibliography and index. Illustrated with 40 plates and 36 text figures from old woodcuts and engravings. London : Sidgwick and Jackson, Ltd., 1931. Price 10/6.The reader who enjo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Aconcagua, South Face

Aconcagua, South Face. On February 10 our group left Laguna Horcones for Base Camp. After reconnaissance and acclimatization on the 11th and 12th we decided on the 1966 route of Aykes and Pellegrini. On the 13th we placed Camp I at 15,750 feet. Af...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Failure, Exposure, California, Tuolumne Meadows

RAPPEL FAILURE, EXPOSURE California, Tuolumne MeadowsI regret to report that an accident occurred on September 1, at the Sierra Club’s Tuolumne Meadows Climb that resulted in the death of Ray Beal. Ray, who had been a member for two years and clim...