Mount Logan's “Independence Ridge”Gregg BlombergI had long wanted to climb Mount Logan and in the fall of 1963 I set out to find a group of men with the same ambition. It is not hard to get an able, qualified crew from the many excellent climbers ...
Mountains of the Middle Kingdom: Exploring the High Peaks of China and Tibet. Galen Rowell. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, in association with The American Alpine Club, 1983. XV + 191 pages, 47 black and white and 85 color photographs, 2 maps. ...
Chalten Massif, summary of activity. During the austral winter (July-August 2002), French Canadians Martin Bointeau and Claude Gagnon made the first winter ascent of Tomahawk (450m, TD+ 5.9 WI6) on Aguja Standhardt. Dry conditions (little ice) for...
The 2010 Alpine Club expedition set sail on November 25 from Tierra del Fuego aboard the Australian yacht Spirit of Sydney, skippered by Darrel Day and Cath Hew. On board were seven climbers: Derek Buckle, Mike Fletcher, Stu Gallagher, Richa...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, FAILURE TO HEED AVALANCHE WARNING, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTNew Hampshire, Huntington RavineOn December 20th three climbers were suiting up after breakfast at the Harvard Cabin when USFS Snow Ranger Jeff Lane entered the build...
Stanford Alpine Club. March 1955 saw Stanford Alpine Club members in both the Tetons, where an attempt was made on the Grand, and in the Sierra Nevada, where a successful ascent was made of the east face of Mt. Whitney. During April, May, and June...
Chicago Mountaineering Club: reports nothing specific in the way of a safety program. They run local trips and week-end trips during the May to October period. During these trips members and guests are given fundamental rock-climbing and safety in...
Manaslu Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Frank Nugent, co-leader, Calvin Torrens, Martin Daly, Harry O’Brien, Donie O’Sullivan, Philip Holmes, Dermot Somers, Mike Barry, Robbie Fenlon, Garry Murray, John Murray, William Forde, Leslie Lawrenc...
Sepu Kunglha Karpo Massif, Various Activity. The Nyangla Qen Tangla Shan in Eastern Tibet is topped by Sepu Kangri (6950m). After first seeing Sepu Kangri in 1982 from a plane while flying from Chengdu to Lhasa, I finally reached the area in 1996 ...
FALL ON ROCK – HASTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral RockOn October 3, Jake Martin (29) and I (30) decided to climb Central Pillar of Frenzy (five pitches, 5.9) on Middle Cathedral Rock, something moderate and w...
The First Ascent of Mont Blanc, by T. Graham Brown and Sir Gavin de Beer, with foreword by Sir John Hunt. London: Oxford University Press, 1957. 490 pages; ills. Price 70s.Published on the occasion of the Centenary of the Alpine Club, this is an e...
EXPOSURE, FROSTBITE, FATIGUE, WEATHER, LOSS OF TENT CONTAINING FOOD, FUEL, CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn April 22, 1992, the three member Korean “Pohang” party flew in to climb the Cassin Ridge on Mount McKinley. On May 4 they start...
THE SECONDARY earthquakes were still sending occasional trembles and frightful rumors through Lima when our Norwegian-American quintet arrived. Hence we quickly agreed on “mountain stability” as one of our main climbing requirements. Fortunately J...
Hainabrakk East Tower, The Choice.Simon Meis and I arrived in Islamabad on July 16 and traveled to the Trango Glacier, where we set up base camp for four weeks below Nameless Tower. Our two-man team had little big-wall experience, so we chose to g...
Avoiding Frozen Feet —Cold Weather FootgearWilliam E. DavisWITH an increase in the number or expeditions to areas of great peaks and with more and more interest in winter mountaineering, the possibility of climbers being exposed to frostbite is gr...
Mount Adams, Avalanche Glacier Headwall. Dale Schmidt and I made the first direct ascent of this route on July 10. No major technical difficulties were encountered. We mainly climbed a steep gully.James Bjorgen, Cascadians
WHO could turn down a free trip to paradise? I did for two years in a row. I was invited to train promising young Kiwi climbers in big-wall techniques in the Southern Alps of New Zealand. I couldn’t go in 1975 because of the K2 expedition, nor in ...
On May 25 Anna Torretta, from Italy, and I arrived in Dushanbe, Tajikistan, and traveled southeast for two days by 4WD to Ishkashim, where we crossed into Afghanistan. This sensitive border is renowned for opium and people smuggling, so imagine my...
Diran Attempts and Tragedy. Of the expeditions which went to Diran (7257 meters, 23,810 feet) in 1989, only the Japanese group led by Ken Takahashi was successful. Seven Koreans were led by Chang Su-Jeong. On June 20, Ha Sang-Woen and Lee Su-Hee d...
Thalay Sagar (6,904m), northwest ridge, Harvest Moon. The northwest ridge attracted us because it was an evident line: the buttress looks like a wave from base camp, and the massive granite pillar at 6,400m provides a taste of challenge. We were a...