Adjacent to Mt. Logan in the Yukon’s remote St. Elias Range, Mt. McArthur is to Logan as Mt. Hunter is to Denali: a beauty of a mountain dwarfed by the heaping mass of a neighbor and often overlooked as a result. McArthur sees what might, at best,...
Peaks above Knud Rasmussen Glacier, East Greenland. On July 10 Douglas C. Anderson, leader, William Jeffrey, Andrea Mountain, Dick Peart, Bob Dunken, Ian Carr, Noel Williams and I* flew to Kulusak. From there we traveled by boat to Angmagssalik to...
August in the ArrigetchDavid S. RobertsCLIMBING ARTICLES, obviously, should notbe written in the off-season. During the sedentary winters that most of us climbers lead, a fermentation sets in in the vats of our memories. Last summer’s expedition, ...
Postcards From The Trailer Park. Cameron Burns. New York: The Lyons Press. 2004. Paperback. 279 pages.When I received Cameron Burns’ book for review, I thought, “Piece of cake. It’s 30+ short articles/stories/vignettes/essays about climbing. I can...
STEPHEN H. HART1908-1993Stephen Harding Hart, who made several first Colorado ascents—Lone Eagle and Crestone Needle—in his teens and climbed many 14,000ers later with his teen-aged sons, died on November 7 in his sleep.Hart is known as one of two...
Clyde Minaret, South Face. In June, Chuck Wilts, John Evans, Dick Long and I made the first ascent of this exceptional route, by far the finest in the Minaret area. The face is over 1100 feet high and involves class 5 climbing on each of eleven 15...
Alaska, Mount McKinley—On May 14, at approximately 6:00 a.m., John Day (51), Peter Schoening (33), Jim Whittaker (31), and his brother Louis (31) arrived in Anchorage, intending to climb Mt. McKinley by the West Buttress Route, the standard route ...
Yerupajá, Traverse, Cordillera Huayhuash. Roger Bates, Peter Barry, Robin Brooks and his wife Judith, Graeme Dingle, Lloyd Gallagher, Allan Sheppard and I left Lima on May 13 by chartered bus for Chiquián. With pack animals we set out on the morni...
Aoraki Mt. Cook and Westland, summary. The Aoraki Mt. Cook region has been particularly quiet in terms of new route activity or ascents of harder routes, suggesting that there are less people heading into the mountains for hard climbing, or that t...
The Ridge of No Return is the southeast-trending ridge which descends from Point 15,000 on Mount McKinley’s South Buttress before ending on the west fork of the Ruth Glacier. It lies approximately one kilometer to the south-southwest of the Isis r...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley (3). On July 3rd John Hinde (34) and two others of the British Joint Service Expedition approached the summit of Mt. McKinley in the early morning. They were feeling the cold but not unduly and only a short distance remained, ...
Ausangate, Second Ascent of Northwest Ridge. On July 6 we placed Base Camp at the foot of Ausangate’s north face near Ausangate Chico to make the second ascent of the northwest ridge to the main peak of Ausangate. (First ascent by Germans in 1966;...
Cinajcira and P 5310, Cordillera Vilcanota. Andreas Anke, Peter Brunner and I climbed P 5310 (17,422 feet) on July 7 and Cinajara (5471 meters or 17,949 feet) via the southeast ridge on July 8. These peaks lie west of Laguna Jalljepuncu and north ...
FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 2,1981, around 7:30 a.m., SAR Ranger Bruce McKeeman was notified by dispatch that Dana Brown (23) was at the lodge and was reporting that someone was seriously hurt near the top...
Devistan. In May and June the Brown University Expedition visited the Nanda Devi region of the central Himalaya. The trek in was from Reni to Dibrugheta, staying within the Rishi Gorge and crossing the river several times. From Dibrugheta the stan...
Mount Moran, First Winter Ascent. In recent years several parties have fruitlessly attempted the winter ascent of Mount Moran. During the past winter success finally came to a group from Salt Lake City: Tom Q. Stevenson, George Lowe, Tom Spencer, ...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATION, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 19 and 20, 1983, the 16 members of the Sierra Denali Expedition flew into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The expedition planned on climbingthe Wes...
Zebak Region. The Manchester University Hindu Kush Expedition was composed of John Vogel, Richard Thomas, Ian Nightingale, Andrew Hamilton, Ian Grace and me as leader. All climbing was done from two camps in the Qalat valley near Eshkashem. Attemp...
Cerro Torre, West Face, Winter Ascent. In July, Thomas Ulrich, David Fasel, Stefan Siegrist and I climbed the 1974 West Face route of Cerro Torre. Rumors of more stable weather conditions and the fact that we would avoid summer crowds motivated us...
Discoveries in Alaska (1896)W. A. Dickey[The following article, made available to us by Bradford Washburn, appeared in The Sun on Sunday, 24 January 1897. The headlines under the title read: “The Unknown Region North of Cooks Inlet Entered / Explo...