Yerupajá, Traverse, Cordillera Huayhuash. Roger Bates, Peter Barry, Robin Brooks and his wife Judith, Graeme Dingle, Lloyd Gallagher, Allan Sheppard and I left Lima on May 13 by chartered bus for Chiquián. With pack animals we set out on the morni...
Aoraki Mt. Cook and Westland, summary. The Aoraki Mt. Cook region has been particularly quiet in terms of new route activity or ascents of harder routes, suggesting that there are less people heading into the mountains for hard climbing, or that t...
The Ridge of No Return is the southeast-trending ridge which descends from Point 15,000 on Mount McKinley’s South Buttress before ending on the west fork of the Ruth Glacier. It lies approximately one kilometer to the south-southwest of the Isis r...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley (3). On July 3rd John Hinde (34) and two others of the British Joint Service Expedition approached the summit of Mt. McKinley in the early morning. They were feeling the cold but not unduly and only a short distance remained, ...
Ausangate, Second Ascent of Northwest Ridge. On July 6 we placed Base Camp at the foot of Ausangate’s north face near Ausangate Chico to make the second ascent of the northwest ridge to the main peak of Ausangate. (First ascent by Germans in 1966;...
Cinajcira and P 5310, Cordillera Vilcanota. Andreas Anke, Peter Brunner and I climbed P 5310 (17,422 feet) on July 7 and Cinajara (5471 meters or 17,949 feet) via the southeast ridge on July 8. These peaks lie west of Laguna Jalljepuncu and north ...
FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 2,1981, around 7:30 a.m., SAR Ranger Bruce McKeeman was notified by dispatch that Dana Brown (23) was at the lodge and was reporting that someone was seriously hurt near the top...
Devistan. In May and June the Brown University Expedition visited the Nanda Devi region of the central Himalaya. The trek in was from Reni to Dibrugheta, staying within the Rishi Gorge and crossing the river several times. From Dibrugheta the stan...
Mount Moran, First Winter Ascent. In recent years several parties have fruitlessly attempted the winter ascent of Mount Moran. During the past winter success finally came to a group from Salt Lake City: Tom Q. Stevenson, George Lowe, Tom Spencer, ...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATION, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 19 and 20, 1983, the 16 members of the Sierra Denali Expedition flew into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The expedition planned on climbingthe Wes...
Zebak Region. The Manchester University Hindu Kush Expedition was composed of John Vogel, Richard Thomas, Ian Nightingale, Andrew Hamilton, Ian Grace and me as leader. All climbing was done from two camps in the Qalat valley near Eshkashem. Attemp...
Cerro Torre, West Face, Winter Ascent. In July, Thomas Ulrich, David Fasel, Stefan Siegrist and I climbed the 1974 West Face route of Cerro Torre. Rumors of more stable weather conditions and the fact that we would avoid summer crowds motivated us...
Discoveries in Alaska (1896)W. A. Dickey[The following article, made available to us by Bradford Washburn, appeared in The Sun on Sunday, 24 January 1897. The headlines under the title read: “The Unknown Region North of Cooks Inlet Entered / Explo...
On August 22 the most recent and most difficult route on the Grand Teton was established by Mike Lowe and me. This excellent climb, rated IV, F9, A2, ascends the most obvious and direct line leading from Valhalla Canyon to the summit of the Enclos...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Athabasca, North FaceOn August 15 at 0530, four Calgary-based climbers started their ascent up the trail to Mount Athabasca’s north face. The overnight low at 2,3 50 metres, recorded at a nearby wea...
JOSEPH NISBET LeCONTE1870 -1950The LeContes, father and son, exerted an influence upon the advancement of science and the love of mountains on the Pacific Coast that can hardly be matched. It began in 1869, when Joseph LeConte came from Georgia to...
Mt. Proboscis, Piton Karmik and various repeats. The story starts from a discussion we had with Paul Piana and Todd Skinner in Greenland, in the Tasermiut Fjord, in 1998. They told us about Proboscis and their route Great Canadian Knife, and we le...
Snow on the Equator, by H. W. Tilman. 265 pages, with 20 illustrations and 4 maps. New York : Macmillan, 1938. Price $3.00. Writers of travel and mountaineering books are especially apt to be single book authors, for to produce a second successful...
Alaska has been called the Great White North and the Last Frontier, a land where tough, cold peaks are scaled by gruff, bold climbers. So why was I a thousand feet up a new route sweating through my T-shirt? Sun-burned eyes squinted through the wh...
Everest: The West Ridge, by Thomas F. Hornbein. Photographs by members of the American Mount Everest Expedition and its leader, Norman G. Dyhrenfurth. Introduction by William E. Siri. Edited by David Brower. Sierra Club, San Francisco, 1966. 200 p...