El Capitan, Quo Vadis. During the night of November 20-21 Jacek Czyz, solo, finished Quo Vadis (VI 5.9 A4/A4+), a new route near the Muir Wall and the Dorn Direct, with which it shares a couple of pitches, and left of the Nose. Of the 22 pitches, ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Lundin PeakOn October 11, 1980, Jerry Pruitt (33) assistant leader on a club climb sponsored by The Mountaineers, fell about 600 feet to his death after he slipped while descending Lundin Peak. The followi...
Ata Glacier, reconnaissance. The Alpine Club of Kobe University (ACKU) has been pursuing unexplored mountains for the past several decades. Our new target is the Kangri Garpo Mountains. More than thirty 6,000m peaks in this range remain unclimbed....
Central Wyoming Granite. Some fine routes have been done near Casper in Fremont Canyon and on Dome Rock. They are part of the Rattlesnake Range near Alcova and consist of granite domes or canyons. The pink granite is generally very sound, but the ...
The Ascent of Mt. WaddingtonWilliam P. HouseIT was in the spring of 1935 that a climbing trip into the Coast Range of British Columbia was first discussed bv Elizabeth Woolsey, Alan Willcox and the writer. By the end of May of the year following, ...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION, INADEQUATE BELAY, BAD WEATHER, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount WhitneyOn July 14, George Evans (43) and Bill Smith (40) were climbing the East Face of Mount Whitney, moving slowly, when the weather started to look...
New Arrigetch ClimbsJonathan Krakauer, Hampshire College Outdoors ProgramHELEN Apthorp, Jeff White, Mark Rademacher, Ben Reed, Holly Crary, Bill Bullard and I climbed the three remaining major unclimbed peaks in the unique Arrigetch: Melting Tower...
FALLING ROCKS AND OBJECTS, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon, Bestowal CrackI was on Werk Supp at the belay after the first pitch when a party on Bestowal Crack decided to set belay anchors in the Choss Gully (5.5-5.6 rated last pi...
Cerro Amarillo de Zenta, Ancient and Modern Ascents. Cerro Amarillo, of the Zenta range in the southeast of the Andes of Jujuy province, rises above forested hills and reaches a height of 3660 meters (12,008 feet). On July 30, our small party of t...
The Roads We ChooseA Himalayan seasonby Anatoli Boukreevtranslated by Beth WaldIn the Himalayan season of 1995, I made three ascents of 8000-meter peaks, beginning with Everest via the north ridge in the spring as part of the International British...
Alps and Men, by G. R. de Beer, 8 vo., 256 pages including bibliography and index, illustrated by xvi plates, twenty drawings and three maps. London: Edward Arnold, 1932, Price 16s. New York: Longmans, Green and Co. Price $5.00.This volume forms t...
Canadian Rockies, summary. After an eventful couple of years, the summer of 2008 and the winter of 2009 were relatively quiet. Given the short windows for the high peaks, and how few people are drawn to hard alpine climbing in what is a demanding ...
FALL ON ICEBritish Columbia, Mount Dennis, Guinness GullyOn December 2, a 35-year-old doctor from the Seattle, WA, area was descending from the route Guinness Gully on Mount Dennis near Field, B.C. when he tripped and fell 20 feet. They’d finished...
The Great German School of Climbing: The KaisergebirgeRand HerronWHOEVER goes from western countries to the Alps for a season’s activity, usually thinks, first of all, of Chamonix, Zermatt, Grindelwald, perhaps of the Dauphine, or if the Eastern A...
THE INTERNATIONAL GEOPHYSICAL YEAR, 1957–58In response to a request from the International Council of Scientific Unions, the National Academy of Sciences-National Research Council, in February 1953, formed a United States National Committee to dev...
A REQUEST FOR CASE HISTORIES OF HIGH MOUNTAIN ILLNESSESOn December 30, 1958, a healthy experienced and excellently trained 21-year old skiier became acutely ill in the mountains near Snowmass Lake at an altitude of approximately 10,000 feet. I par...
The American Alpine Club 94th Annual Meeting, December 6-7, 1996New York? What the hell are they having it in New York for, anyway?”“The Club was based here for years, you know. This is the first time an event has been held here since they moved e...
East Face of the Central Tower of PaineArthur McGarr, Mountain Club of South AfricaTHE Central Tower of Paine in the Paine Range of Patagonia was climbed in the 1962/63 season by Don Whillans and Chris Bonington from the west via a route that invo...
GeographicalDistrictsNumber of Accidents1951-83DeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of Accidents1984DeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta1685536617241British Columbia173693496312Yukon Territory202251000Ontario16432204Quebec11228000East Arctic511...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE BELAY, FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FATIGUE, WEATHER Washington, Mount RainierOn February 28, 1986, the Gary Speer (34) climbing party of four departed eastern Washington and drove to Carbon River Entrance. Th...