Shyamvarn and Yogeshwar. An Indian team from Bombay was led by Ramakant Mahadik. On June 20, seven completed the second ascent of Shyamvam (6135 meters, 20,128 feet). The first ascent was in 1985, when the mountain claimed the life of one climber....
Distant Mountains. John Cleare. Discovery Channel Books: New York, 1998. 160 color photos. 173 pages. $35.00.“What beautiful names the mountains and glaciers have in this region…. said W.M. Conway of the Jungfrau region of Europe’s Alps. These sam...
AVALANCHE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Tuckerman RavineOn April 11, Daniel Zucker (46) from Danville, VT, and Tim Finnocchio (31), both athletic and experienced mountaineers, were climbing the steep snow route known as “D...
Extreme Rock: Great British Rock Climbs. Ken Wilson and Bernard Newman. Diadem Books, London, 1987. 296 pages, color photographs, line drawings, bibliography. £27.95.This colorful and exciting book gives us an insider’s view of the contemporary Br...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Dana GlacierOn July 26, 1992, at 1515 Ranger Dave Page received a report of a climbing accident on the Dana Glacier. The reporting party, Robert Gordon, was at the Tioga Pass Entra...
Fear and LoathingAlpine-style suffering on Jirishanca’s great southeast face.Nick BullockWe started to climb at one in the morning and I felt terrible. Approaching the start of an evil chimney—the drain for anything falling from Jirishanca’s massi...
Castle Peak, various first ascents. During September Stefano Cacioppo, Cesare Giuliani, and I, members the Italian Alpine Club, put up four new routes on Castle Peak. Standing at the end of the long ridge forming the southern rim of the Chhudong G...
TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-74 USA1959-74 CAN.1975 USA1975 CAN.TerrainRock128510559Snow66810147Ice11River500Unknown1020Ascent or DescentAscent97712074Descent8477928Unknown13085Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock7315542S...
FALL ON SNOW, UNSTABLE SNOW CONDITIONS, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FATIGUE, VARYING LEVELS OF EXPERIENCE Alaska, Mount HunterOn June 8, 1994, Patti Saurman (31), Chris Walburgh (28), David Saurman (30), and Don Sharaf (28) flew to the Southeast Fork o...
Shimokangri, first ascent. The Alpine Club of POSCO (the largest steel mill in Korea) made the first ascent of Shimokangri (7,204m) on September 29. An expedition of eight climbers, led by Li In Oei, put five on top: Nam Yong Mo (climbing leader),...
APPENDICITISAlaska, Mount McKinley, Muldrow GlacierOn June 19 at 2345, a National Outdoor Leadership School expedition requested a helicopter to evacuate a sick student located at 7,200 feet on the Muldrow Glacier.At 0900 that day, Tilney felt nau...
Kusum Kanguru (6,367m), south ridge, new route attempt. From the 10th of November until the 21st of November Young Chet and I from Alaska attempted to climb the “Dream Pillar” [see Venables’ note to follow] on the south ridge of Kusum Kanguru. We ...
GLENN LELAND CONVERSE1937-1974Occasionally there is an individual whose presence is so strongly felt among his associates that his death is simply incomprehensible. Such a person was Glenn Leland Converse. After the avalanche on Nevado Huandoy whi...
The Problem of the WildernessRobert MarshallIT IS appalling to reflect how much useless energy has been ex- pended in arguments which would have been inconceivable had the terminology been defined. In order to avoid such futile controversy I shall...
The Czechoslovakian ExchangeMark WilfordBEING A SELF-CONFESSED sandstone and adrenaline addict, I’m continually looking for my next fix. Having such traits, a visit to the spawning grounds of my obsession would be quite a treat. That is, as long a...
The UIAA Climbing Classification SystemFritz WiessnerInterest and activity in all phases of mountaineering increased tremendously in nearly all countries following the last world war and in recent years the interchange of information and increasin...
Mixed MessagesIs hard M-sport-climbing influencing high-standard alpinism?Edited by David DornianIn 2002 the American Alpine Journal published a thought piece written by Raphael Slawinski. Raphael's thesis was that the enjoyable pastime created by...
Dark Summit: the True Story of Everest’s Most Controversial Season. Nick Heil. New York: Henry Holt, 2008. 271 pages. $26.00.High Crimes: the Fate of Everest in an Age of Greed.Michael Kodas. NY: Hyperion, 2008. 357pages. $24.95.The 2006 season th...
Suikarsuak Tower, South Greenland, 1977. The Suiksarsuak Tower is about 3300 feet tall with its principal weakness a 2000-foot dihedral on the northwest face. Our group on the first half of the expedition planned to attempt this, while a second on...
Kayak Ski Mountaineering in Glacier Bay. I left the Salmon River at Gustavus in a single kayak on May 12 with a full load of food, fuel, water, and ski mountaineering gear. My skis and ski poles were mounted on deck in a homemade waterproof bag. T...