Tayapampa in the Alpamayo ValleyRichard GoodyOUR small party met in Miami International Airport late in the evening of June 10; our objective: enjoyable mountaineering in the Alpamayo valley in the northern Cordillera Blanca; our party: Donald Mor...
The 1952 Harvard McKinley Expedition. The five members of the Harvard McKinley Expedition, Frederick L. Dunn, John Noxon, John Smith, Stephen Den Hartog, and I, all members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, left Cambridge on June 11th, arriving ...
Yellow Wall, possible new route. Our 21-day expedition to the Karavshin Valley last July was during one of the rainiest summers the Kyrgyz shepherds said they had seen in a long time. Despite this and numerous difficulties with border patrols, hav...
American Women’s Trans-Antarctica Expedition, 1992-3. Our original idea was a 1700-mile traverse of Antarctica. We planned a team of four, each pulling her own sled of supplies. After several shifts of route, we finally settled on the one done by ...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWyoming, Fremont CanyonTW (36) and EO (37) planned a weekend (in August) of climbing in Fremont Canyon. They arrived on Saturday morning at 0900. To start the day TW rappelled to the sloping ledge just above the ri...
Mount Foraker’s Southeast RidgeH. Adams CarterWith sections by James Richardson and Jeffrey DuenwaldOUR aerial reconnaissance was hardly a success. As Don Sheldon swooped his ski-wheeled Supercub over Foraker’s southeast ridge, we could see the ma...
Shyamvarn and Yogeshwar. An Indian team from Bombay was led by Ramakant Mahadik. On June 20, seven completed the second ascent of Shyamvam (6135 meters, 20,128 feet). The first ascent was in 1985, when the mountain claimed the life of one climber....
Distant Mountains. John Cleare. Discovery Channel Books: New York, 1998. 160 color photos. 173 pages. $35.00.“What beautiful names the mountains and glaciers have in this region…. said W.M. Conway of the Jungfrau region of Europe’s Alps. These sam...
AVALANCHE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Tuckerman RavineOn April 11, Daniel Zucker (46) from Danville, VT, and Tim Finnocchio (31), both athletic and experienced mountaineers, were climbing the steep snow route known as “D...
Extreme Rock: Great British Rock Climbs. Ken Wilson and Bernard Newman. Diadem Books, London, 1987. 296 pages, color photographs, line drawings, bibliography. £27.95.This colorful and exciting book gives us an insider’s view of the contemporary Br...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Dana GlacierOn July 26, 1992, at 1515 Ranger Dave Page received a report of a climbing accident on the Dana Glacier. The reporting party, Robert Gordon, was at the Tioga Pass Entra...
Fear and LoathingAlpine-style suffering on Jirishanca’s great southeast face.Nick BullockWe started to climb at one in the morning and I felt terrible. Approaching the start of an evil chimney—the drain for anything falling from Jirishanca’s massi...
Castle Peak, various first ascents. During September Stefano Cacioppo, Cesare Giuliani, and I, members the Italian Alpine Club, put up four new routes on Castle Peak. Standing at the end of the long ridge forming the southern rim of the Chhudong G...
TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-74 USA1959-74 CAN.1975 USA1975 CAN.TerrainRock128510559Snow66810147Ice11River500Unknown1020Ascent or DescentAscent97712074Descent8477928Unknown13085Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock7315542S...
FALL ON SNOW, UNSTABLE SNOW CONDITIONS, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FATIGUE, VARYING LEVELS OF EXPERIENCE Alaska, Mount HunterOn June 8, 1994, Patti Saurman (31), Chris Walburgh (28), David Saurman (30), and Don Sharaf (28) flew to the Southeast Fork o...
Shimokangri, first ascent. The Alpine Club of POSCO (the largest steel mill in Korea) made the first ascent of Shimokangri (7,204m) on September 29. An expedition of eight climbers, led by Li In Oei, put five on top: Nam Yong Mo (climbing leader),...
APPENDICITISAlaska, Mount McKinley, Muldrow GlacierOn June 19 at 2345, a National Outdoor Leadership School expedition requested a helicopter to evacuate a sick student located at 7,200 feet on the Muldrow Glacier.At 0900 that day, Tilney felt nau...
Kusum Kanguru (6,367m), south ridge, new route attempt. From the 10th of November until the 21st of November Young Chet and I from Alaska attempted to climb the “Dream Pillar” [see Venables’ note to follow] on the south ridge of Kusum Kanguru. We ...
GLENN LELAND CONVERSE1937-1974Occasionally there is an individual whose presence is so strongly felt among his associates that his death is simply incomprehensible. Such a person was Glenn Leland Converse. After the avalanche on Nevado Huandoy whi...
The Problem of the WildernessRobert MarshallIT IS appalling to reflect how much useless energy has been ex- pended in arguments which would have been inconceivable had the terminology been defined. In order to avoid such futile controversy I shall...