A Visit to Chamonix in 1857(The Diary of Fred Trower, Jr.)In 1857 Fred Trower, Jr., was about 14 years old. Toward the end of July he accompanied his father, mother, sister and a Mr. Winter on a first tour of the Continent, going by Antwerp, Dresd...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. The winter McKinley party composed of Jacques Batkin (36), Gregg Blomberg (25), Arthur L. Davidson (22), John S. Edwards (35), Raymond Genet (35), David P. Johnston (24), Shiro Nishimae (31), and George Wichman (39), flew to ...
In the middle of July my wife Tanja and I were dropped off below the famous walls of Ulamertorssuaq and Nalumatorsoq. We had shared the boat with a British expedition traveling to the head of the fjord, where we would later join them. We survived ...
On June 5,1986, a seven member Korean-American Expedition flew into the Kahiltna Glacier to climb the Cassin Ridge. The party planned on separating into three groups with a party of two and three attempting the Cassin while two remained at a 3075 ...
ROB HALL1961-1996Mount Everest dealt a particularly savage blow last year. On May 12, Rob Hall died on the South Summit of Everest after becoming incapacitated on the descent from his fifth time on the summit. During May 10 and 11, Rob’s Adventure...
Mount Shuksan via Nooksack Ridge. Although Mount Shuksan has been climbed by so many different routes, the bastion from Nooksack Tower to the summit plateau, between the Nooksack and Price Glaciers on the northeast face, was unexplored territory. ...
FALL ON ROCK – FOOTHOLD BROKE OFF, OFF ROUTE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Phantom TowerOn April 11, a party of three were going to attempt the South Face of the Phantom Tower, a 5.8 gear route in the Ghost River. The leader (20)...
Aguja de la S, The Art of War. With rumors of a weather window opening, Crystal Davis-Robbins, a 24-year-old also from the Durango area, and I frantically schlepped loads to our high camp at Niponino. A few Canadians, not as influenced by the bad ...
Ibrahim Brakk, Free Kashmir. Todd Offenbacher, Nils Davis, Sean Isaac, and friends Sean and Shelly Huisman and Hermein Freriksen, arrived in Islamabad on July 7. Sean, Todd and I had decided, after a chance meeting in Canada in 1999, to join force...
1951-041959-0420052005USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock4237521737Snow2235346337Ice24915850River14300Unknown22901Ascent or DescentAscent2853578619Descent2192362489Unknown2481221OtherNB70Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2958283497Slip on snow or ice950207...
A Rock Climbers Guide to Pinnacles National Monument. Paul G. Gagner. Taylor-Powell Printing Co., Fort Collins, 1983. 146 pages, 14 black and white photographs, 24 maps (including topos). $12.00.The Pinnacles has recently seen a radical advance in...
Mt. Robson from, the East. “God made the mountains, but good God! who made Robson?” exclaimed Conrad Kain, who led the first ascent in 1913. It was with high hopes, but with bleakly realistic expectations that Dave Bernays, Craig Merrihue, and Dmi...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. Our group was composed of Italo Valle, Gino Casassa, Rodrigo Mújica, Giorgio Cattoni and me as doctor and leader. The permission for our original objective, Shisha Pangma, was cancelled. After a period of acclimatization near E...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE FROM ANCHOR POINT-APPARENT ANCHOR FAILURE DUE TO EXTERNAL FORCESWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn April 29, Alan Rooney (38) and Jonathan Morrow (28) fell to their deaths while attempting an alpine climb on the nor...
Tayapampa in the Alpamayo ValleyRichard GoodyOUR small party met in Miami International Airport late in the evening of June 10; our objective: enjoyable mountaineering in the Alpamayo valley in the northern Cordillera Blanca; our party: Donald Mor...
The 1952 Harvard McKinley Expedition. The five members of the Harvard McKinley Expedition, Frederick L. Dunn, John Noxon, John Smith, Stephen Den Hartog, and I, all members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, left Cambridge on June 11th, arriving ...
Yellow Wall, possible new route. Our 21-day expedition to the Karavshin Valley last July was during one of the rainiest summers the Kyrgyz shepherds said they had seen in a long time. Despite this and numerous difficulties with border patrols, hav...
American Women’s Trans-Antarctica Expedition, 1992-3. Our original idea was a 1700-mile traverse of Antarctica. We planned a team of four, each pulling her own sled of supplies. After several shifts of route, we finally settled on the one done by ...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWyoming, Fremont CanyonTW (36) and EO (37) planned a weekend (in August) of climbing in Fremont Canyon. They arrived on Saturday morning at 0900. To start the day TW rappelled to the sloping ledge just above the ri...
Mount Foraker’s Southeast RidgeH. Adams CarterWith sections by James Richardson and Jeffrey DuenwaldOUR aerial reconnaissance was hardly a success. As Don Sheldon swooped his ski-wheeled Supercub over Foraker’s southeast ridge, we could see the ma...