A Korean expedition led by Yoon Dae-pyo made the first ascent of Baintha Brakk II (Ogre II, 6,960m) by the northwest buttress. They established two camps on the glacier and one on the buttress. Rope was fixed between Camps 2 and 3. Lim Deok-yong a...
Dhampus. On October 15, Japanese Shigeyuki Baba, leader, and Kenichiro Kawaguchi and Gaja Bahadur Gurung climbed to the summit of Dhampus (6012 meters, 19,724 feet) by its southwest face and west ridge.Elizabeth Hawley
Matri. Thirteen climbers from Durgapur were led by Swapan Kumar Ghosh. They set up Base Camp near the snout of the Matri Glacier on August 14. On September 1, the leader and Arvind Patel climbed to the summit (6721 meters, 22,050 feet).Kamal K. Gu...
Mount Robson, Ski Descent of the North Face. It was reported that Troy Jungen and Peter Spricenieks skied the North Face of Mount Robson in September, experiencing tricky and dangerous snow conditions with around 18 inches of wind crust, transitio...
Koshtantau, Caucasus. Vera Watson led four climbers representing the American Alpine Club at the second session of the Inter-nation Camp Bezengi in August. The others were Margaret Young, Robert Summers and I. Thirty-nine climbers from six countri...
A Field Institute in the Mountain and Expeditionary Sciences, ]uneau Icefield. A permanent field facility to provide an academic and practical training program for students interested in polar, mountain and glacial sciences has been established in...
On February 13, C.W. (26) and I, M.H. (38), were climbing The Sorcerer, a Grade V water ice climb. The first pitch went up a thin, mid-angled shield to a lower-angled dish from which the line headed right across slabby terrain and up to a short, s...
Campa I, Cordillera Vilcanota. On August 311 soloed Campa I and the following day Argentine Alberto Miori and I repeated the climb. Deteriorating weather and Miori’s health prevented further attempts in the Campa group and our attempt on Ausangate...
Peaks Southwest of Tirsuli. Two unnamed peaks (20,300 and 19,900 feet) southwest of Tirsuli were scaled on May 29 and 31 respectively by a team sponsored by Bombay University.2 They attempted another unnamed peak of 22,940 feet but failed to climb...
Olympics, Washington: (1) Mt. Anderson. On 4 September 1948 a party of five, including Ronald Nece (21), hiked into the Olympics from the Dosewallips Ranger Station to the Anderson Pass shelter. On the 5th the party crossed Anderson Glacier and Fl...
Teton Climbs. Art & Brent Pinnacle. In September 1984, Renny Jackson and Tom Kimbrough climbed a newly discovered and difficult pinnacle on the south side of Cascade Canyon, on the east side of the main Teewinot-Owen cirque. The route required...
Mount Dragtooth, Northeast Arête. When one views the Sawtooth Ridge from the vicinity of Bridgeport, the prominent northeast arête stands out on Mount Dragtooth. In closer views a classic line is seen directly up its northeast face in a dihedral. ...
Cotopaxi (ca. 19,500 ft.) was climbed on June 13, 1938, by G. H. Bullock, accompanied to about 17,000 ft. by André Roosevelt, who was overcome by the altitude and had to turn back.
Banff National Park, Lake Louise Area. On 17 September Randy Hodgins of Calgary slipped and fell to his death from a rock ledge on the east shoulder of Sheol mountain above the Paradise Valley. He was a member of a party of four persons that left ...
Everest, the death ofBabu Chiri. Babu Chiri, the incredibly strong and fast mountaineer who was also the most famous Sherpa of recent times, died on April 29 at the age of 35. His most spectacular feats on Everest include staying overnight on the ...
My Vertical World. Jerzy Kukuczka. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1992. 192 pages. $29.95. On a sunny afternoon in the fall of 1989, I was coming off a modest expedition in the Khumbu when I heard that the extraordinary Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukucz...
South Dakota, Badlands National Monument—On July 27, a party of 35 Boy Scouts from Fargo, North Dakota, was stopped at the Norbeck Pass Overlook in Badlands National Monument. The weather was very hot, the temperature being 102° F., but several of...
Free climbing on El Capitan: days on a wall, high exposure, awkward chimneys and offwidth stuff, and, last but not least, mostly natural pro—all ingredients for a particularly interesting game. Lynn Hill’s ascent of the Nose was an exploit, an eve...
STRANDED—FORGOT TO UNTIE SAFETY KNOT IN RAPPEL ROPE—JAMMED IN ANCHOR, STRANDEDCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn July 3 Chris Donharl (17), Ben Beezley (17), and Mike Haig (about 25) hauled their bags to Sickle Ledge from the ground but the...
K2 Ascent and Tragedy. In order to acclimatize our members before attempting K2, we established a training camp near Nanga Parbat from May 18 to June 10. On June 6, ten of our thirteen members reached the summit of Rakhiot Peak (7074 meters, 23,20...