Various volcanoes, nontechnical ascents. Shortly after the New Year Jonathan Kreiss-Tomkins (U.S.) and partner made the first ascent of Cerro Nevado (5,988m), east of the mighty El Muerto. This volcano has been referred to as El Muerito, but the t...
During the afternoon on May 27, two experienced climbers, Chris Lee (38) and Chris Klinga (25), were attempting Doub-Griffith, a 5.11c 3-pitch traditional route that starts from a small ledge 150 feet above the base of Redgarden Wall. As Lee was c...
Latok II Attempt. [This peak is the same one attempted by an American expedition in 1978 and British in 1982 by the same route. It had been called Latok I previous to an Italian expedition, which interchanged Latok I and II. The Norwegians call it...
Return to the Alps, by Max Knight. Photographs by Gerhard Klammet. Edited, with a foreword and selections from Alpine literature, by David Brower. San Francisco: Friends of the Earth, 1971. 160 pages, 54 photographs in full color, 1 map. $27.50Thi...
Fisher Towers. In recent years, there has been a trend towards very fast repeats in the Fisher Towers. The spring of 1994 was no different and saw second ascents of some of the routes and speed ascents of others. Duane and Lisa Raleigh concentrate...
FALL ON ROCK WHILE RAPPELLING, MISCOMMUNICATION Arizona, Flagstaff, Takes a ThiefOn November 11, 1991, Tim Reid (31) was climbing with Rachel Perch (39) when the following accident occurred:After completing a lead I clipped off two anchor bolts an...
Nanga Parbat Attempt, Diamir Face. Dr. Kurt Schoisswohl, Dr. Michael Grüner, Robert Troier, Imgard Renzler and I as leader hoped to climb Nanga Parbat by the normal route on the Diamir Face. We reached Camp III. We then started a summit attempt on...
The Domelands and Sierra Nevada, Various Attempts and Ascents. During a week-long encampment in the mosquito-infested Dusty Basin, in August, 1995, we made one climb and one attempt. On August 19, two friends from Spokane, Steve and Sharon Reynold...
WILLIAM RICHARD HAINSWORTH 1896–1971William Hainsworth was born in Seattle, Washington on February 22, 1896 and died at Laguna Hills, California on December 4, 1971, after a long illness. He graduated from the University of Washington in 1917, wit...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. In October, Andrew Wingfield, Charles French, Gordon Scott and I attempted to climb the south face of Thalay Sagar. We placed Advance Base on the Phatung Glacier and climbed a rock buttress to reach Camp I at 5200 meters. Cam...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. The club began 1973 with a winter survival seminar in response to the needs revealed in analyzing the events leading to the fatality that occurred on Humphreys Peak on New Year’s Day. Then came the annual leader traini...
Putha Hiunchuli Attempt. Two Britons and a Swiss under the leadership of Andrew Kerr attempted to climb Putha Hiunchuli (7246 meters, 23,773 feet) by its south ridge, which they reached from the east. They got to 7050 meters on October 17 before g...
VITALY MIKHAILOVICH ABALAKOV 1906-1986With good reason Vitaly Abalakov was known as “The Father of Soviet Mountaineering.” One of the first to pursue serious mountaineering within the socialist system, he contributed much to the development of Rus...
East of Everest, … an account of the New Zealand Alpine Club Himalayan Expedition to the Barun Valley in 1954. By Sir Edmund Hillary and George Lowe. New York: E. P. Dutton and Company, 1956. 70 pages; 48 pages of photos. Price $5.00.In April, May...
FALL/SLIP ON ROCK AND PLACED NO PROTECTION—Wyoming, Grand Teton, Exum Ridge. Joseph Sherrill (25) and Lyle Dean were attempting a roped technical climb of the West Face of the Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton. Sherrill was following with an upper bel...
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Wedge MountainDarlene Wright (33) and Brian Prentice (34) were ascending the north ridge of Wedge Mountain on August 10, 1980. The ridge is exposed but not difficult. They were roped, an...
Rondespiret, First Ascent. The Sÿr-Rondane 1996-97 expedition returned from Antarctica on January 20 after a successful first ascent of Rondespiret (The Ronde Spire), with an altitude of almost 8,000 feet. Ivar Tollefsen organized and led the expe...
Mt. Hunter, Northeast Buttress, North Couloir. Scott DeCapio and I landed on the Kahiltna Glacier’s Southeast Fork in mid-May with aspirations to try the Moonflower on Mt. Hunter’s north buttress. However, the complete absence of high-pressure day...
Condoriri, Southeast Face, Direct, Cordillera Real, 1981. A possibly new route on Condoriri was accomplished by Ecuadorians R. López, M. Moreno, R. Navarrete, I. Rojas and M. Suárez, who placed a base camp near Condoriri Lake and on June 16, 1981 ...
Yacuma Aguja. Italians B. Balatti, R. Riva and G. Valsecchi made the first ascent of the 1200-meter-high northwest buttress of Yacuma Aguja (6005 meters, 19,700 feet) in the Ancohuma-Illampu group. They followed first a rocky crest, then an ice ri...