Perfect Day for Bananafish and Occam's Razor. In Kolob Canyons, on the south side of the finger canyon immediately south of Nagunt Mesa, Simon Ahlgren and I climbed two new routes. We approached from the Lee Pass trailhead, leaving the trail at th...
Nudo Ayacachi, Cordillera Vilcanota; Huascarán from the east. A strong Spanish party sponsored by the Federación Española de la Montaña and led by Félix Méndez Torres established Base Camp on June 12 at 15,000 feet southeast of Coylloriti (17,723 ...
Mount Chitina, St. Elias Mountains. On September 20, Donnie Hunton and I were dropped off at Hubert’s landing strip at 2000 feet and hiked along the Chitina Glacier. September 21 and 22 were spent crossing the Chitina Glacier and moving camp to 44...
South Chasm View Wall, Dry Rubbed. In May Mike Pennings and I dropped into the South Chasm View Wall after hunting for a cup of coffee and bacon in Montrose. We were fired up for a new line we had eyed from the north side over the years.Considerin...
Tukuche, West Summit. A kind of French family “expedition” consisted of René Collet, his wife and daughter, two professional guides and a photographer. Monsieur Collet and guide Firmin Mollard reached the western summit on October 22. They had cli...
Iowa Mountaineers. Most of the club’s efforts on week-ends were channeled toward developing strong rock climbers, and especially leaders. Phil Fowler, vice-president of the club, assisted by Barbara Thomas, Richard Schori and James Kolotronis, spe...
Dunagiri. Our members were Jordi Anglí, Manuel Broch, Josep Font- cuberta, Francesc Pañella, Manuel Quevado, Martí Vall and I as leader. We left Lata with 31 porters and in four days got to Base Camp on the Ramani Glacier on August 20. We placed C...
Zwischen Munjan und Bashgal II (Zentraler Afghanischer Hindukusch), by Wolfgang Frey. Göppingen, Germany: Arbeitsgemeinschaft "Klettern und Bergsteigen” der Ortsgruppe Göppingen e. V. im TVdN, 1968. 38 pages, 5 maps.No one thinking of organizing a...
Burnt Boot Peak, North Ridge. Across the middle fork of the Snoqualmie River, two miles southeast of Big Snow Mountain lies P 6480, now officially Burnt Boot Peak. Bill Bucher, Tom Oas and I climbed a new route, the north ridge. From the base of t...
Volcán Copiapó, pre-Columbian and Modem Ascents. This prominent volcano (6072 meters or 19,922 feet) is located on the Chilean-Argentinian border and west of the Ojos del Salado. In 1937 it was ascended by members of the Polish expedition that saw...
British Columbia Mountaineering Club. The club’s 80 odd scheduled trips this year were well attended and generally blessed by good conditions. Our ski camp to the Waddington Range ran into financial difficulties, but the main camp to Mount Robson ...
Mt Forel, reputedly the highest mountain on the island, was climbed on August 12th by a Swiss expedition organized by the Akademischer Alpen Club Zürich under the leadership of M. André Roch. The altitude of the peak is 11,100 ft.
Alpamayo-Quitaraju Group. Our expedition was composed of Jordi Colomer, Pere Xaus, Mariano Velasco, Manolo Martin and me. On June 21 we all climbed Loyacjirca (18,635 feet) by a probably new route, the northeast face. We then had to assist Kazuhir...
Himalaya und Karakorum by Toni Hiebeier. Zürich: Silva-Verlag, 1980. 248 pages, 134 color photographs. Price: 56 Swiss Francs.As former editor of Alpinismus and author of more than twenty mountain books, Toni Hiebeler is a well-known authority on ...
Yale Mountaineering Club. In 1950 the Club continued its program of training in rock- and ice-climbing techniques, with emphasis on the fundamentals of safe climbing. Members made numerous trips to the Shawangunks and New England cliffs, and climb...
Muhi Zom (Wala 334). This 21,135-foot peak above the Noroghi Khuh Glacier was climbed for the first time on July 27 by Shinichiro Fujii, leader, and Ken Hiroe, and on July 28 by Genki Funakoshi and Toyoshige Inoue. They made up the expedition of t...
Pumori Ascent and Tragedy. On April 18, Chris Leibundgut and I reached the summit of Pumori after an eight-day alpine-style ascent via the south ridge. Our expedition consisted of us two plus Doug White and Randy Kopal. We established Base Camp on...
Fitz Roy and other Patagonian Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Ricardo Czerniawski, César Fava, Guillermo Espoueys and me. We had hoped to climb the whole west face of Fitz Roy from the Cerro Torre valley, which would have been a new route to...
Kronpriz Frederik Bjerge, East Greenland. This British expedition, led by Stan Wooley, successfully climbed and explored in the Kronpriz Frederik Bjerge, south of Kangerdlugssuaq Fjord. The other members were Dr. Ian Campbell, Ted Courtney, Rob Fe...
FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION,FAILURE TO TEST ANCHOR, NO HARD HATWashington, LeavenworthThis accident occurred on June 14, 1987, to Bleecker Morse (37) and Jim Turk (30), as reported by Turk.Bleecker and I have climbed Icicle Road area a lot...