Arizona Mountaineering Club. The Arizona Mountaineering Club (AMC) increased its membership in 1999 to more than 500 and added new programs for its members. The Club meets the fourth Monday of each month in Phoenix. Speakers at these meetings incl...
ROCK GAVE AWAY - FALL ON ROCKColorado, Indian PeaksOn August 21, Glenn Porzak (64), his son Austin Porzak, and Robert Petrowsky were climbing on the East Ridge between Little Pawnee Peak (12,466 feet) and Pawnee Peak (12,943 feet). Sometime during...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE BELAY,NO HARD HATArizona, Oak Creek Canyon OverlookOn May 22, 1993, on a climb called “Crack Up” (5.9), Richard Forbes (34) was leading above his belayer, Sandra Draus (46), who was apparently 25 fee...
An Epitome of Fifty Years’ Climbing, by Claude Wilson. Printed for private distribution. 1933.Written at the instigation of Mr. Henry F. Montagnier and limited to 125 copies for private distribution, the main part of this book consists of a tabula...
Everest, oldest and youngest summiteers. The oldest person ever to reach the summit was a 64- year-old American physician, Sherman (“Sherm”) Bull. He was joined at the top by his son, Bradford (“Brad”) Bull (33). The pair were only the second fath...
Rakaposhi Attempt. David Reeder, Roger Gocking, Ray Kalio and I attempted the Dutch variation to the Pakistani-Polish route on the northwest ridge of Rakaposhi in July and August. We were joined by Poles Aleksander Lwow and Piotr Snopczynski, who ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNova Scotia, Eagle’s Nest, “No Man’s Land”September 30 was a great climbing day at Eagles Nest. The cool morning air of Fall was quickly warming up, the skies were clear, and the rock was cool to the touch. It wa...
Triangle Peak, attempt on west (southwest) couloir. By October 1, 2001 all of our gear was at Pemthang Karpo Kharkha (4,675m), our campsite in the Langtang Valley. It used to be a classic stop for pirates on route to Xixabangma. Looking north from...
Aconcagua. On 19 February 1949 Lieutenant William D. Hackett reached the summit of Aconcagua in company with an Argentine officer, Lieutenant Jorge Mottet. Hackett thus became the first to have ascended both McKinley and Aconcagua. The five-man cl...
Saskatchewan Glacier. No measurements were made, but the upper course was examined from Castle guard meadows on July 1st, 1937. The glacier has receded more than 200 ft. from the S. lateral moraine where horses were taken on the ice in 1923. This ...
Cho Oyu, Southwest Face. The only people to climb Cho Oyu from Nepal in the post-monsoon accomplished a remarkable achievement. They were just two Japanese women and a man: Miss Taeko Nagao, leader and Miss Yuka Endo, both already with three 8000e...
Pangi Valley, Sersank Peak, attempt; Peak 5,027m, first ascent. A small British expedition explored the upper Tiaso Nala and the area of the Sersank Pass in late June and early July 2007. The team, consisting of Rob Ferguson, Graham Little, Jim Lo...
Mt. Hess, East Buttress, Second Ascent, Previously Unreported. In May, 1997, Jon Miller and I climbed up snow and low-fifth-class rock from the upper Gillam Glacier at 4,640 feet to the upper basin (8,400') beneath the north ridge. After a storm d...
Canyonlands. Several new Wingate Spires have been scaled recently in Canyonlands. Leonard Coyne, Ellen Figi and I made the first ascent of Bridger Jack, a500-foot butte, this summer. Our route, Wild Flower (III, 5.10), ascends prominent 5.9 cracks...
New Routes on Grand Sentinel and North Dome, Kings’ Canyon National Park. In July, Bruce Bourassa and I climbed Cosmopolis, a new route on the Grand Sentinel, which we believe to be the third route on the formation and the first new route in 10 ye...
Lindbergh Fjeld, Multiple First Ascents. In July and August, the team of Mike Berthold, Paul Campion, Jonathan Clark, Sam Dickinson, Chris and Vanessa Helliwell, Ben Irons, David Keaton, Adrian Pedley, and Paul Walker climbed a number of peaks. Ja...
Ama Dablam, Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was led by Guido Bu- mann and I was the climbing leader. Other members were Ruth Beck, Lieselotte Schmidt, Maya Senn, Heidi Cadisch, Christoph Jetzler, Fritz Maurer, Max Wettstein, Christoph Häuter, S...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Devils Lake was the site for numerous outings in the spring, summer, and fall seasons. We are currently gathering material for a guide to the climbs in this area. Several week-end trips were also made to the Mississi...
Kangchungtse Tragedy. Nobody knows if this French expedition put anyone on the summit of Kangchungtse or Makalu II or not. Four climbing members made a bid for the summit on November 1 but they turned back late in the afternoon when Denis Jeanvoin...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn December 21, 1986, Lawrence DeLong (38) was lead climbing “Double Cross,’” a 5.7 crack on Old Woman Rock. He was approximately six meters from the ground,...