Snow Canyon. Many new routes have been established in this state park just northwest of St. George. 1986 saw several first free ascents of note. Todd Gordon eliminated the aid from the second pitch of Pygmy Alien, thus freeing the route at 5.9. Ch...
Domeland, Packing into the center of Domeland on April 16, Chuck Haas and I still found time to climb a truly classic six-pitch crack system in the center of the east face of Radiant Dome (F6 and F7). If the dome were near a road, like Tahquitz Ro...
Triglav, Yugoslavia. (This climb has been included because it is in a region not frequently visited by American climbers.—Editor.) Triglav, in the Julian Alps, is in the northwestern corner of Yugoslavia and is its highest peak (9393 feet). It is ...
Northern Cascades, Washington: (3) Mount Index. During the first week of October 1947, there occurred a tragic accident which has not yet been fully explained. Two young men named Franklin and Westphal, each 17 years of age and with a minimum of c...
Huascarán, West Ridge. Although our party made the first ascent of the west ridge of Huascarán, we can not claim that this was the climax to a long-maturing plan. When seven of us, ranging in age from 35 to 49, left Vancouver on June 1, we simply ...
DEHYDRATION, CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING, FAILURE TO COMMUNICATEAlaska, Mount McKinleyFred Wilson, 22, was a member of the three-man “FAB-1” expedition which flew to the basecamp on May 26, 1985, to climb the West Buttress. On June 6, Wilson and his...
Rakaposhi, Second Ascent by New Route, Northwest and Southwest Ridges. The first ascent of Rakaposhi (25,550 feet) was made in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey. Since then all other attempts had ended in failure. The Polish-Pakistani expedition 19...
Eiger. The N. wall of the Eiger was finally ascended this past summer by an Austrian party composed of H. Harrer and F. Kas- parek, and a German party composed of L. Vörg and A. Heck- maier, the two parties combining their forces and making the cl...
Bon Echo Provincial Park, Ontario. On 8 July Brian Cook and Nicholas Pawley began climbing shortly after 6 p.m. on a grade four route up the cliff along Lake Mazinaw. Cook had led grade six climbs here and Pawley grade five. They planned to altern...
HOLD PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mount Sir DonaldOn July 30, 1987, following a successful climb, a guide (30+) and his client moved camp for the ascent of the Northwest Arête the following day. A...
Everest West Ridge and Traverse. The Bulgarian Everest Expedition was organized to honor the 40th anniversary of the Bulgarian socialist revolution and the 80th anniversary of the foundation of the Bulgarian Revolutionary Trade Unions. It consiste...
Selkirk Range: Trout Lake Group. The Trout Lake Group in the sourthern Selkirks was visited in 1948 by R. Clapp, L. M. Erskine, Jr., and A. Griscom. Erskine and Griscom ascended Fays Peak (9260 ft.), the highest point on Silvercup Mountain. On the...
British Columbia Mountaineering Club. The 1967 season was an active one with the favorable influences of good weather and Canadian Centennial projects. Our schedule featured 70 trips ranging from short hikes and snowshoe outings to long class 4 an...
Gurja Himal, Northwest Spur and North Ridge. Our expedition was organized by the Lyon Section of the French Alpine Club and supported by the Féderation Française de la Montagne. The members were Pierre Buttin, leader, Mlle N. Brocard, Mme Y. Butti...
François de Ribaupierre. The name of the Swiss painter mentioned in the note appended to the memorial to Mrs. Colt (A.A.J., VII, Sept. 1949, 329) should be—as Marjorie Hooker, of McLean, Va., has pointed out— François de Ribaupierre, not “Ritanpie...
Gangotri Region. The north ridge of Gangotri I was climbed by Manzoor Ahmed and Bimal Chandra Goswami of Assam on May 18. A 13-member team of Himalaya’s Beckon from Calcutta set up Base Camp at 4510 meters on May 14 and Camps I, II and III on May ...
Three Expeditions to the Hindu Kush. Poles led by J. Wala made various ascents: in the Qadzi Deh: Aspe Safed (21,325 feet) and P 6250 (20,506 feet) between Aspe Safed and Noshaq; on the frontier chain towards the Zebak district: six 5000-meter (16...
Mount Paget, Alladyce Range, North East Spur. In November 2003 a Spanish team including José Carlos Tamayo made a rare ascent of Mt. Paget (2,935m), the highest peak on the island of South Georgia and the highest on British soil. They repeated the...
Barun Valley. In 1952 Shipton, Evans, Hillary, and I reached the Barun Glacier and descended it. Makalu was then unexplored and the lower Barun was of great beauty. We planned to return. The New Zealand Alpine Club was fired by our descriptions an...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HATUtah, Indian Creek, Cat WallOn May 17, a man and his wife and their two friends (ages unknown) were climbing Johnny Cat (5.12+). The man was going for the ...