Tengkangpoche, north pillar, attempt. Paul Bride, John Furneaux, and I attempted the unclimbed north pillar of Tengkangpoche (6,487m). Base camp was at 4,350m and Paul made it as far as 5,000m, capturing an amazing series of video, digital, and fi...
Kang Yassay, West Peak. The expedition (Mike Ratty, leader, Trevor Willis, John Shelley, John Lovett and Nick Fellowes) had planned an ascent and exploration of the unclimbed Thalda Kurmis, in the Rupshu region of Ladakh. Permission for the peak w...
New Climbs in the Sawtooth Range. The west face of “Castle Spires” was climbed by Keith Spencer and Art Filion via gullies and chimneys to a heather patch, followed by cracks and ribs to the summit. Though moderate, the exposure and lack of belay ...
Ernst Hodel: Das Werk eines Malers, by F. Balsiger, R. von Tavel, G. Staffelbach, A. J. Welti and J. B. Rusch. 98 pages, 95 illustrations (26 in full color). Lucerne: Verlag J. Nietlispach, 1951.This book celebrates the 70th birthday of one of the...
Twin Sisters, “Skookum Peak.” The Twin Sisters Range has a number of peaks ranging between 5600 and 6700 feet which are worthwhile climbs on solid granite rock. On May 31, 1969, Dave Dixon and I made a first ascent of this 6500-foot peak located a...
Northern Chile. A light archaelogical expedition sent by the Santiago section of the Club Andino de Chile travelled to the Antofagasta area and from a base camp at 13,000 feet on the flat pampa near the ancient Indian village of Toconao, made a nu...
León Blanco, West Face. A group of the Santiago section of the Club Andino de Chile made on February 1977 the first ascent of the west face of Cerro León Blanco (5195 meters, 17,045 feet). The summit was reached by H. Feilenberg, G. and S. Kunstma...
Abi has been climbed several times from the southeast and southwest but had not been attempted from the west until July 2009, when He Lang and I tried from the Jiesigou Valley. The peak lies between the north end of the Shuangqiao Valley and...
Attempt on Wickersham Wall, Mount McKinley. On May 17 Dan Davis, Stu Ferguson, Warren Bleser and I flew to Anchorage with food and equipment for an attempt on the huge north face of Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall. On Saturday the 20th we finally ...
Peak 10,070' (a.k.a. The Bear’s Tooth), East Face, The Useless Emotion. In May, Jim Bridwell, Brian McCray, Brian Jonas, Glenn Dunmire and Terry Christensen established a new route on the east face of Peak 10,070' (a.k.a. The Bear’s Tooth). The Us...
High Country Names. Rocky Mountain National Park, by Louisa Ward Arps and Elinor Eppich Kingery, assisted by Hugh E. Kingery. Denver : The Colorado Mountain Club, 1966. Illustrations, maps; paper cover. Price, $4.95.Although the Rocky Mountain Nat...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, HYPOTHERMIAWashington, Mt. BakerOn September 22, four men from British Columbia were climbing Mt. Baker when two of them fell into a crevasse. The primary victim, Dennis Wheatley (50), fell while jumping across a crevasse openi...
FALL ON ROCK—PROTECTION PULLED OUT, LATE START—DARKNESSNorth Carolina, Sauartown MountainIn early May, two male climbers (22 and 21) started a route at Sauartown Mountain late in the day. The leader placed a cam and a stopper prior to clipping the...
Bublimotin Attempts and Ascents. Five other teams were reported to have attempted Bublimotin (6000 meters) last year. An Australian team of Damien Gildea and Mark Nayar attempted it in late August, reaching 4700 meters. An Australian/New Zealand t...
Stanford Alpine Club. Although no major climbs were undertaken and no new routes were recorded, the Stanford Alpine Club was very active during 1962. Practice climbs were held every Sunday at local rock outcrops, and two or three weekend trips wer...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Our expedition was divided into two groups. The first, fifteen persons, most of whom were inexperienced in mountaineering, for the most part did not get far into the high-peak region, though three climbed Pico Ojeda. ...
Hallucinogen Wall, free attempt. In September and October I tried to free climb this route twice. On the first attempt, with Mike Shepard, we rapped to pitch 14 and climbed out from the top of pitch 14, all free at 5.12. Pitch 14 is a bolt ladder ...
Troll Wall, the Russian Route and Baltica. During the last quarter century, the most difficult routes on the Troll Wall have been the 1965 Norwegian Route (VI 5.10 A3), the 1967 French Diretissima (VI 5.10 A4) and the 1972 Arch Wall (VI 5.11- A4+)...
Valley of the Pillars, Wrangellia. After nearly a decade on Valdez waterfalls, Carl Tobin and I stepped up to the big ice of Wrangellia. Carl had known of the ice for years, but after an October traverse through Wrangellia I substantiated the rumo...
Washington, Mt. Rainier. On 2 August Miss Onyon (22), a member of the Peace Corps Training group, was descending en glissade (sitting) from Glacier Vista via a steep snow chute to the Nisqually Glacier. She lost control of her descent on the fast ...