Masherbrum. We marched 112 miles from Skardu, along the Shyok, up the Hushe valley, and then, on June 15, 1957, to Base Camp on Masherbrum Glacier at the foot of Sérac Glacier. During fine weather we established Camp I (15,500 feet) at the top of ...
Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. Our expedition, composed of Martin Doyle, Lindsay Griffin, Dave Harries, Mike Woolridge, Katherine Slevin and me as leader, attempted the very difficult, unclimbed east buttress of Annapurna Dakshin (7919 meters, 23,683 ...
Nudo Millpo, 1974. On our expedition from Italy, I was accompanied by my wife Maria, Giuseppe Cazzaniga, Italo Valmaggia, Giancarlo Del Zotto and Celso Salvetti. From July 28 to August 22, 1974 we were in the mountains, which lie just south of the...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Akira Kiuchi reached 6200 meters. Two members suffered from sickness and rockfall threatened.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club
P 19,958, Lower Baltoro Glacier. An expedition of the Groupe de Haute Montagne attempted to climb the granite tooth which lies between the Uli Biaho and Trango glaciers and between Payu Peak and and Trango Towers. It is given as 6083 meters (19,95...
It was reported that Gene Kisler and Todd Offenbacher climbed a new route on the previously unexplored Pigeon Feathers. They gave the ten-pitch route a grade of V 5.10 A3, but said that now that the route has been cleaned it would most likely go...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDOregon, Mount HoodOn February 29, Ralph Leach (40), Tom Morgan (53), and Lee Hepfer (49) successfully ascended the South Side (Hogsback) route on Mount Hood. At 1130 while descending the same route, Hepfer jumped the b...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Crowder’s Mountain State Park, OpinionatedOn November 23, a male climber (23) fell while climbing Opinionated (5.9+) on the Red Wall at Crowder’s Mountain State Park. According to reports, the climber was a...
Omission from the Pamirs Article, A.A.J., 1975. On pages 77 and 78 we unfortunately omitted the name of Marty Hoey. She did reach the summit of Pik Lenin with Evans, Lev, Stanley and Carson and waited with Lev for Williamson when he made his summi...
Sierra Club. Keeping pace with the Sierra Club’s conservation efforts, members were also very active in the mountaineering field. As usual Yose- mite Valley provided much of the challenge and new ascents. Most noteworthy of the new climbs that wer...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, White Whale IIOn May 23, 1994, Jack L. McConnell (59) and his son Thomas H. McConnell (24) were climbing the White Whale Route II, 5.7, on the Left B...
ROBERT DUSCHINSKY 1900-1991Robert Duschinsky was bom in Vienna on October 25, 1900. He studied chemistry at the University of Vienna.He became a devoted mountain climber while still a student. He climbed the mountains in the surroundings of Vienna...
Rocky Mountains of CanadaNotes on the Early Exploration of the Canadian Rockies. Various discrepancies between Coues’ New Light on the Early History of the Greater Northwest (Henry-Thompson Journals) and Tyrrell’s Thompson’s Narrative of His Explo...
Mount Logan, Warbler Ridge or East-Southeast Buttress of East Peak. Our expedition was made up of the Canadians Jay Page, Frank Baumann, Fred Thiessen and me and the Swiss René Bucher. We called our route “Warbler Ridge” because of several visits ...
El Capitan, Passage to Freedom. I wanted to find a way to free climb the Dawn Wall and decided to attempt a line built around the aid climb, New Dawn. Andrew McAllum fixed ropes to the fourth belay. I spent several days on these pitches, closely i...
FALL ON ROCK, HELMET NOT SECURED PROPERLY Colorado, Boulder, First Flat IronIt was June 8. We had been working hard the last few months, warming up for our annual trip to Chamonix. We had decided to have an easy day on the First Flatiron. The easi...
French Youth Expedition to Ak-Su, Pamir Alai, Tadzikistan, and the Piolet d’Or. A group of young French climbers was selected by the Groupe de Haute Montagne. Under the leadership of Luc Jourjon, François Pallandre and Rémy Karle, they were Raphaë...
Mount Hunter, North Buttress Attempt and North Face. Todd Bibler, Doug Klewin and I attempted the north buttress of Mount Hunter in June. After flying in, we started early on June 12 and followed the prominent gully on the left side of the buttres...
Mount Hunter, Northwest Spur Variant. On April 12 Gary Bocarde, Nick Parker and I started on a new variant on the west ridge of Mount Hunter. After skiing around from the southeast fork of the Kahiltna into the basin north of the west ridge, we se...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Moraine Lake, 3-3½ CouloirRonald and David Schuela, brothers in their twenties, were climbing the 3-3½ Couloir to the Graham Cooper Hut on 1 August 1979 without crampons. They took about ...