ICE AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Slesse MountainEric Dirksen (24) and Seph Fraden (24) were approaching Slesse’s northeast buttress about 3 p.m. on August 1, 1980. The weather was hot and the route passes under a hanging glacier fro...
Mount Viets and 4811, Ascents. French alpininsts Erik Decamp and Catherine Destivelle made two first ascents in Antarctica. A full account of their climbs appears earlier in this journal.
New York Section. The beginning of any new decade brings with it a moment of reflection and analysis. During the 2000’s the New York Section Alpine Club Community almost doubled in size. Perhaps more important than membership growth, however, was ...
Denali, First Double Amputee to Summit. Korean climber Kim Hong Bin became the first double amputee to summit Denali, which he did via the West Buttress route. Bin had lost both hands to frostbite on a 1991 Denali accident.Denali National Park Rep...
Illampu. Our five-man expedition climbed Illampu (6362 meters, 20,873 feet) by the 1964 Yugoslavian route up the west ridge. Only Jan Häusler and I reached the summit on June 18. This was the first Norwegian ascent of the peak.Terje Kleiven, Norsk...
Illimani. We two made access through the village of Mina Urania by a long moraine which rises directly to the southwest face of Illimani. Our first attempt was in the middle of the face which we climbed in very difficult gullies, hoping to reach a...
Mt. Kennedy, northwest face. As a two-man team, Jon Bracey and I wanted a challenging mixed objective we could attempt alpine style, and the northwest face of Mt. Kennedy fit the bill perfectly. In 1996 Jack Tackle and Jack Roberts climbed their P...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Lundin PeakOn May 9, 1982, Agris Moruss (40) fell 450 meters to his death. He was leading a student party of ten from the Boeing Alpine Club, with two other instructors, to the summit of Lundin Peak. He wa...
Italian Expedition to Tibet and Pakistan to Conduct Further Observations on the Altitude of Mount Everest and K2. (Professor Ardito Desio, who organized and was in overall charge of the group that undertook the new measurements, has kindly supplie...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn August 17, 1984, a climber named Ernie Milan described the following accident to park rangers.About 1200 on August 17, 1984, Milan was with a partner at the base of Lo...
Torres del Paine, Season Overview and a Note on Permits. The weather this season was the worst since at least 1996. From October to late March, we had maybe ten days of good weather for climbing. But March was excellent: we had more nice days in t...
Lexington Spire, East Face, Right Side, “Tooth and Claw.” This seven-pitch route ascends slabs, roofs and discontinuous systems to the right of the standard east-face route. On June 24, Dave Tower and I scrambled to the highest ledge at the base o...
STRANDED, WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, FOOD, AND EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Higher Cathedral RockOn May 15, Christopher Simmons (26) and Emily Craft (28) became benighted on the eleventh pitch of the North East Buttress route on Higher...
North Lemon Mountains, first ascent of The Spear and others. As our drop-off point was not a suitable base for climbing in the Lemon Mountains, Geoff Cohen and I left for the Frederiks-borg Glacier 19 miles away. Two days’ of travel were needed to...
MERL LAVOY1886-1953It was in the spring of 1910 that Herschel Parker and I first met Merl LaVoy. We were in Seattle completing the final arrangements for our 1910 Mt. McKinley trip when he volunteered to join us as expedition photographer. One loo...
Breidablik, Asgard and Other Peaks, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. Our German Alpine Club (DAV) Training Expedition was active on Baffin Island from June 30 to August 18. We established our Base Camp on the southeast bank of the Weasel River...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 27 January Robert Ellenberg (19), C. Neale Yoder (25), and Scott Stevens (19), apparently were descending Huntington Ravine between Central and Damnation Gullys. The reason for the fall was not known, but it is pr...
SHOULDER DISLOCATION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount ThroneOn August 24, 1988, five climbers were short-roping on moderate terrain on an intermediate rock climb as part of a warden service training climb. Just below the summit ridge, while one of ...
Various ascents. Our expedition included Stanko Mihev, Franc and Janeta Pusnik, Samo Rupreht, Matjaz Prislan, Marko Anzelak, Igor Plesivcnik, Peter Naglia, Peter Jeromel, and me as leader. We started from Malma on June 30, with 20 horses for the 1...
West Ridge of the Middle Teton. The long west ridge of the Middle Teton was ascended for the first time on August 4, 1955, by William Buckingham and Mary Lou Nohr. From the south fork of Cascade Canyon we followed a broad couloir into the lower en...