Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Weather, Inadequate Equipment, California, Yosemite Valley, Washington Column

STRANDED, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT California, Yosemite Valley, Washington ColumnTwo male climbers, both 27, were rescued from the Skull Queen climbing route on Washington Column on Friday, May 6, 1988, when they became 52 stranded in a storm...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Himal

Langtang Himal. The famous Swiss climber, Raymond Lambert, and the noted Belgian scientist, Canon Jules Détry, in early April 1955 made a nine-day march from Kathmandu to the Langtang Gompa monastery where at about 13,000 feet on the Nepalese-Tibe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Robson, First Attempted Solo Ascent of North Face, Second Solo Ascent of Kain Face

Mount Robson, First Attempted Solo Ascent of North Face, Second Solo Ascent of Kain Face. On August 8 I climbed from Berg Lake via the rock between the Mist and Tumbling Glaciers to a tent placed previously with the help of friends underneath the ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Arizona, Superstition Mountains, Flat Iron

Arizona, Superstition Mountains, Flat Iron. On 13 February Larry Treiber (23), William Betcher, and Bruce Grubbs with a full complement of gear for a 6 Class ascent and gear for a one night bivouac attempted to climb the so-called Nose which had b...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Avalanche, Inadequate Equipment, Alaska, Bold Peak

FALL ON SNOW, AVALANCHE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlaska, Bold PeakOn June 3, 1990, two experienced Alaskan mountaineers set out to climb Bold Peak (2286 meters) located in the Eklutna Lake area of the Chugach Mountains. They planned the ascent to take...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Everest Attempt

Everest Attempt. Josema Casimiro and I shared the route on the north side of Everest with a large Swedish expedition. We followed the classic route on the East Rongbuk Glacier and on May 20 climbed to the North Col some 300 meters to the left of t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum

Masherbrum. We marched 112 miles from Skardu, along the Shyok, up the Hushe valley, and then, on June 15, 1957, to Base Camp on Masherbrum Glacier at the foot of Sérac Glacier. During fine weather we established Camp I (15,500 feet) at the top of ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Dakshin Attempt

Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. Our expedition, composed of Martin Doyle, Lindsay Griffin, Dave Harries, Mike Woolridge, Katherine Slevin and me as leader, attempted the very difficult, unclimbed east buttress of Annapurna Dakshin (7919 meters, 23,683 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Nudo Millpo, 1974

Nudo Millpo, 1974. On our expedition from Italy, I was accompanied by my wife Maria, Giuseppe Cazzaniga, Italo Valmaggia, Giancarlo Del Zotto and Celso Salvetti. From July 28 to August 22, 1974 we were in the mountains, which lie just south of the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Kumaon and Garhwal, Thalay Sagar Attemp

Thalay Sagar Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Akira Kiuchi reached 6200 meters. Two members suffered from sickness and rockfall threatened.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, P 19,958, Lower Baltoro Glacier

P 19,958, Lower Baltoro Glacier. An expedition of the Groupe de Haute Montagne attempted to climb the granite tooth which lies between the Uli Biaho and Trango glaciers and between Payu Peak and and Trango Towers. It is given as 6083 meters (19,95...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pigeon Feathers, Lost Feather Route North America, Canada, British Columbia, Bugaboos

It was reported that Gene Kisler and Todd Offenbacher climbed a new route on the previously unexplored Pigeon Feathers. They gave the ten-pitch route a grade of V 5.10 A3, but said that now that the route has been cleaned it would most likely go...

| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Climbing Unroped, Oregon, Mount Hood

FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDOregon, Mount HoodOn February 29, Ralph Leach (40), Tom Morgan (53), and Lee Hepfer (49) successfully ascended the South Side (Hogsback) route on Mount Hood. At 1130 while descending the same route, Hepfer jumped the b...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, North Carolina, Crowder's Mountain State Park, Opinionated

FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Crowder’s Mountain State Park, OpinionatedOn November 23, a male climber (23) fell while climbing Opinionated (5.9+) on the Red Wall at Crowder’s Mountain State Park. According to reports, the climber was a...


In Memoriam AAJ
Alfred Adolphe Couttet, Armand Charlet, Georges Tairraz

Omission from the Pamirs Article, A.A.J., 1975. On pages 77 and 78 we unfortunately omitted the name of Marty Hoey. She did reach the summit of Pik Lenin with Evans, Lev, Stanley and Carson and waited with Lev for Williamson when he made his summi...


Club Activities AAJ
Sierra Club

Sierra Club. Keeping pace with the Sierra Club’s conservation efforts, members were also very active in the mountaineering field. As usual Yose- mite Valley provided much of the challenge and new ascents. Most noteworthy of the new climbs that wer...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Off Route, No Hard Hat, Exceeding Abilities, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, White Whale II

FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, White Whale IIOn May 23, 1994, Jack L. McConnell (59) and his son Thomas H. McConnell (24) were climbing the White Whale Route II, 5.7, on the Left B...


In Memoriam AAJ
Robert Duschinsky, 1900-1991

ROBERT DUSCHINSKY 1900-1991Robert Duschinsky was bom in Vienna on October 25, 1900. He studied chemistry at the University of Vienna.He became a devoted mountain climber while still a student. He climbed the mountains in the surroundings of Vienna...


Notes AAJ
Notes on the Early Exploration of the Canadian Rockies

Rocky Mountains of CanadaNotes on the Early Exploration of the Canadian Rockies. Various discrepancies between Coues’ New Light on the Early History of the Greater Northwest (Henry-Thompson Journals) and Tyrrell’s Thompson’s Narrative of His Explo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan, Warbler Ridge or East-Southeast Buttress of East Peak

Mount Logan, Warbler Ridge or East-Southeast Buttress of East Peak. Our expedition was made up of the Canadians Jay Page, Frank Baumann, Fred Thiessen and me and the Swiss René Bucher. We called our route “Warbler Ridge” because of several visits ...