Shivling. On June 5 Patxo Dávila, José Luis Fernández Bedia, José Carlos Tamayo and I reached the summit of Shivling (6543 meters, 21,467 feet) by its south buttress. We left Uttarkashi on May 24 with ten porters, a cook and a liaison officer. Thr...
Mount Bridgland, East Face. A spell of dry, clear weather the third week of August provided the impetus for a trek up the valley of the Miette to seek a new route on the towering form of Mount Bridgland. By noon the next day, McCarty, Brian Leo, a...
Artesonraju, Southwest Face. On June 8, Andrej Gaspari and Štefan Mlinaric climbed a new fall-line route on the southwest face of Artesonraju directly to the summit, which they have named in memory of Marija Frantar. They descended the Austrian ro...
In Mendoza’s Tunuyán region, Diego Molina and Fernando Martinez made an interesting exploration on the south west face of Cerro Nevado Manantiales during (austral) spring. From Tunuyán they went to Refugio Portinari and continued past Refugio Sc...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, MISCOMMUNICATIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Wind TowerOn May 4, Lon Abbott (45) and Avery McGill (25) were climbing Recon (5.6) on the Wind Tower. Both men were experienced climbers and wearing helmets. They had bee...
Hushe Karakoram Expedition. We spent two months in the Central Karakoram, exploring, climbing and geologising around the Masherbrum, Gondogoro, Chogolisa, Charakusa and Aling glacier systems, approaching from the Hushe valley. A late winter left s...
On Ice and Snow and Rock, by Gaston Rébuffat. New York: Oxford Press, 1971, 192 pages, $15.00What happens when a how-to book on mountaineering is combined with a coffee-table picture book? The result is the most striking single volume on technical...
Patterson Bluffs, “The Sun Also Rises. " In September, Scott Cosgrove, Jim Zellers and I completed a free ascent of the Sunset Buttress Route, originally rated IV, 5.10, A2 (AAJ, 1986, page 156) on Patterson Bluffs above Balch Camp. The route had ...
FALL ON ROCK, SLACK IN BELAY LINEArizona, Pinnacle Peak, East Wall, Lizard LipOn September 23, 1991, two climbers were on Pinnacle Peak’s east wall. The lead was a 5.8 climb. The leader was about seven feet past a .5 tri cam, when he slipped. Slac...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Our expedition was made up of leader Dr. Eckart Gundelach, Karl Rössle, Thomas Mügge, Helmut Seitzl, Hubert Weinzierle, Gerhard Baur and me. We made our approach to Base Camp at 4200 meters from June 23 to 26. A reconnai...
High Sierra, Big Adventure. On August 5, Josh Schmidt (16), Jared Kraus (16), and Daniel Winetsky (15) embarked on an 18-day adventure in the High Sierra. Beginning at the Balls in Southern Yosemite, the three brushed up on the fundamentals of mul...
SAMUEL PRESCOTT FAY 1884–1971“Pete” Fay as he was known to his friends had been a member of the Club for 59 years at the time of his death last August. His qualifications for election in 1912 were four seasons in the Canadian Rockies beginning in ...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. An Italian expedition led by Carlo Buzzi failed to climb this mountain during August.
Appalachian Mountain Club. As in the past, club members participated in mountaineering endeavors throughout the world. Perhaps some of the most noteworthy rock climbing both in the U.S. and the British Isles has been that performed by Henry Barber...
Dhaulagiri II Attempt. A seven-member South Korean expedition led by Ryu Si-Dong hoped to climb Dhaulagiri II (7751 meters, 25,430 feet) by the south face to the east ridge. They had to give up on April 6 at 6300 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
NOEL E. ODELL 1890-1987The distinguished climber, geologist and friend, Noel E. Odell, died on February 21, 1987, as we were about to go to press. He became a member of the American Alpine Club in 1928 and was made an honorary member in 1936. A co...
Les Alpinistes Célébres by Henry de Ségogne and Jean Couzy. Paris: Editions d’Art Lucien Mazenod, 1956. 416 pages; 221 plates (8 in color). Price 6200 Fr. francs (approx. $18.00).In vast conception and noteworthy execution, the editors and 71 coll...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE AND INADEQUATE PROTECTION—Wyoming, The Tetons, Disappointment Peak. David Sheridan (28) and Chancey Bittner attempted a roped technical climb of Irene’s Arete on the South Side of Disappointment Peak on August 25. Sheridan ...
Mount Alberta, North Face. In mid September Kit Lewis and I made the second ascent of the north face of Mount Alberta. We spent a day walking from the Banff-Jasper highway over the Woolley shoulder to the northeast shoulder of Alberta. We spent th...
Mount McKinley, Northwest Buttress, Second Ascent, 1982. Alan Novey, David Shrimpton, John Rehmer, Jim Snyder, John Stolpman and I skied up the Kahiltna Glacier to Kahiltna Pass (10,000 feet) and climbed down to the Peters Glacier (8000 feet). It ...