Manaslu, Ascent, and Fourth Person to Climb All 14 8000ers. On Manaslu, Mexican Carlos Carsolio on May 12 became the fourth person ever to scale all 14 8000ers—and the first of the four to come from a non-European country—when he and his brother A...
Dragon Peak, Northwest Ridge. In June, Claude Fiddler and I climbed the left of two arêtes on the northwest side of this peak. The route was six pitches and was done in a day, car-to-car. (II, 5.8.)Vern Clevenger
Colorado, Grand Giraffe. On 29 September, Warren Bleser (26) was leading the last chimney of the Grand Giraffe, a difficult 5.8 class climb in Eldorado Springs Canyon. He was belayed by Quinn and had reached the last difficult move, inside a chimn...
Vermilion Cliffs, various activity. For the past five years Albert Newman of Flagstaff, with a dozen partners, including Jeff Kennedy and James Martin, has passionately pursued new route development in the Vermilion Cliffs of northern Arizona. Com...
Summit Lake Area, Various Ascents. Six of us from the Banff area converged on Summit Lake during the first two weeks of May. We only had time for a short trip, so were banking on a lucky weather window. People seemed to think that going before the...
Watkins Mountains, Various Ascents. In May, Christine Watkins led a British group including Anne Picard and Charlotte Skinmeir that made several ascents (many firsts) from the Upper Woolley Glacier. First ascents included Sphinx (3210m), Ladies’ P...
New England Section. The year began on a celebratory note when Bill Atkinson was honored at the home of Rich and Andrea Leonard on his 80th birthday January 13. The 90 guests, including representatives of both the Appalachian Mountain Club and the...
JULIE CHENEY CULBERSON1957-1993One of America’s most loved and respected alpinists, teachers and guides was lost on August 9, 1993 when Julie Culberson was killed in a climbing accident in the Canadian Rockies. The loss to her husband Matt and to ...
Ama Dablam. Our expedition was composed of Hans Penz, Dr. Theo Lyu- banowitsch, Stefan Krismer, Gemot Pollhammer and me as leader. We placed Base Camp on the edge of the moraine below the west face of Ama Dablam at 14,925 feet. On April 4 we set u...
Mt. Logan, The Orion Spur. In late May Jeremy Frimer and I climbed a new route on the northeast side of Mt. Logan (5,956m). The Orion Spur drops from Logan’s summit plateau into the basin formed by the Catenary Ridge (1967) and the Independence Ri...
Spokane Mountaineers. A Canadian summer outing at Moraine Lake below the Wenkchemna Peaks highlighted a busy year. Memorable ascents included Mounts Temple and Victoria and a grand traverse from Marble Canyon, B. C., via Fay Hut and the col betwee...
During the last two weeks of April, Tim Ditt- mann, Dave Ahrens, and I attempted a new route on the west face of the Eye Tooth. We started up the obvious cleft between the Orgler route (Dream in the Spirit of Mugs, Bonapace-Haas- Orgler, 1994) and...
Kangchungtse Ascent and Tragedy. The autumn of 1985 was characterized by long spells of very bad weather. During the approach march we had only one sunny day. We got to Base Camp at 5400 meters on September 24. The first week there was reasonably ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWashington, Mount ShuksanOn August 4, 1984, three young men were practicing techniques for steep angle snow descents on Mount Shuksan when one of them, William Couvion (1...
British Hills and Mountains, by J. H. Bell, E. F. Bozman and J. Fairfax-Blakeborough. 8 vo.; pp vii +115, with 99 plates, three in color, index and maps. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons (London: B. T. Batsford, Ltd.), 1940. Price $3.00.This is a...
The Breach: Kilimanjaro and the Conquest of Self. Rob Taylor. Coward, McCann & Geoghegan, New York 1981. 254 pages, photographs, diagram. $14.95.Big climbs can establish and affirm friendships; they can also destroy them. International expedit...
Quitaraju, Alpamayo, Tsurup, Pisco, Ocshapalca, Cayesh. For acclimatization Joan Amils and I climbed the north face of Quitaraju on June 16 and the southwest face of Alpamayo. On June 28, we repeated the 1982 Spanish route on the southwest face of...
Aconcagua (6,962m), 2008-2009 season overview. Fewer climbers visited Aconcagua this season than last (4,041 versus 4,548), likely due to the economic crisis. Eighty-four percent of the climbers came from outside Argentina. There were nearly 300 r...
FALL ON RAPPEL, IMPROPER TECHNIQUE California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn December 9, 1986, at 1400,. Ellen Hoffman (26) was rappelling down the face of Intersection Rock from a climb called “The Flake,” when her rope became tangled. She stop...
Baintha Brakk (Ogre), South Pillar Attempt. From May 18 to 23 we made our approach to Base Camp at 15,750 feet on the Uzun Brakk Glacier. From May 24 to June 5 we carried loads and placed camps at 17,400 and 19,800 feet. We fixed 2500 feet of rope...