Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell, Various Routes

San Rafael Swell, various routes. On January 30 Lance Bateman and I climbed a new route on the Eastern Reef of the San Rafael Swell. Dreamy Clouds (7 pitches, III 5.11d R A0) climbs the center of the “Great White Wall,” left of Three Finger Canyon...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera de Huancavelica

Cordillera de Huancavelica. The Oxford University Exploration Club sent a scientific party into the mountainous region between Huancayo and Huancavelica during the months of July and August. The leader, J. K. Marshall, and J. R. Lloyd studied the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, P 9875, University Range

P 9875, University Range. Bob Jacobs first saw P 9875 in 1975 during an exploratory hike up the Chitistone River. The view of this peak up Toby Creek is breathtaking. The 4500-foot north face is Eiger-like in appearance but rises to a sharp, corni...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, North Chasm View Wall, Air Guitar

North Chasm View Wall, Air Guitar. In May Jared Ogden and I redpointed Air Guitar (V 5.12+), a 17-pitch line on good rock up the middle of North Chasm View Wall. For several years we poked around before sorting out the line that begins right of th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Tilicho, Second Ascent

Tilicho, Second Ascent. In the autumn of 1965 three of us explored an unnamed 23,405-foot peak in the Annapurna Himal, which was later called Tilicho or more accurately Tilitso Himal (tilli=remote; tso=lake in the Thakali language) after Tilitso (...


Club Activities AAJ
Idaho Alpine Club

Idaho Alpine Club. This was the fourth year of the Idaho Alpine Club’s existence. Membership increased slightly to a total of 59, and we became incorporated. The climbing committee sponsored a series of lectures on mountaincraft at the monthly mee...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Hanuman and Rishi Kot, North Face

Hanuman and Rishi Kot, North Face. Our expedition was composed of Mario Blasevich, Canadian, Rafael Fernández, Dr. Juan Bejarano and me as leader, Spaniards. We were in Garhwal from July 29 to August 29. We had hoped to climb the south face of Dun...


Book Reviews AAJ
La Cordillera Di Huayhuash

La Cordillera Di Huayhuash by Annibale Bonicelli. Bologna: Club Alpino Italiano di Bergamo, 1968. 94 pages, 54 photos, 9 sketch-maps.In 1964, an Italian expedition led by Signor Bonicelli visited the Huayhuash range in Central Peru and made a numb...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Big Snow Mountain, East Butteress

Big Snow Mountain, East Buttress. Big Snow Mountain (6680 feet) lies north of the Snoqualmie Pass group. The east buttress is characterized by a prominent dihedral and overhangs along its crest. On May 11 Jeff Dial and I traversed the left side of...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile–Northern Andes, Cerro Doña Inés, Pre-Columbian Ascents

Cerro Doña Inés, Pre-Columbian Ascents. Although it had been ascended several times in the last few decades, no traces of pre-Columbian ascents had been reported for this well known peak, located some 30 miles north-northwest of the mineral area o...


Club Activities AAJ
Appalachian Mountain Club

Appalachian Mountain Club. This year saw the revival of the mountaineering training camps. A group of 10 people led by G. S. Janes spent two weeks in the northern Cascades. Emphasis was placed on backpacking and route finding in mountain terrain. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Kenya, Mt. Kenya

Mt. Kenya, both summits, and Kilimanjaro were also climbed by Miss Cameron and her guides.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Quitaraju

Quitaraju. Our expedition climbed the direct north face of Quitaraju (c. 19,850 feet). On July 19 four of the six of us reached the summit: Jean and Claudine Lescure, Alain Sauge and I.Philippe Bernadin, Club Alpin Français


Book Reviews AAJ
Mountaineering Maps of the World, Volume 1, Himalaya

Mountaineering Maps of the World, Volume 1, Himalaya, 1977, 329 pages. Price: 19,000 yen; Volume 2, Karakoram-Hindu Kush, 1978, 350 pages. Price 21,000 yen. Editor, Koji Echigo. Tokyo: Gakushu Kenkyu-sha. Publisher, Hiroshi Watanabe. Illustrated.T...


Club Activities AAJ
Princeton Mountaineering Club

Princeton Mountaineering Club. The Club finished in June 1950 a fairly active year—its first as a separate entity in the university. The renewal of the academic year in September found no decrease in interest. During the summer members had climbed...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Kohe Wakhan

Kohe Wakhan. The identity of this peak is in doubt. See the account immediately above. My information is not definitely accurate, coming from a badly written letter. They claim that Michel Guerin, Alain Rebreyend, P. Minelli, G. Many, Jean Plion, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest Attempts, 1989

Everest Attempts, 1989. South Koreans led by Park Young-Bae tried to make a winter ascent of the southwest face of Everest but only reached a high point of 7800 meters on January 10, 1989.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Rincón

Cerro Rincón, Fitz Roy Group. This unclimbed peak (49°16' S; 73° 10' W) lies some 10 miles from Fitz Roy at the western end of the granite intrusion which forms Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Pier Giorgio. The main summit (8136 feet) is of ice fortifie...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Freya, Southwest Buttress, Baffin Island, 1987

Freya, Southwest Buttress, Baffin Island, 1987. The first time I approached Windy Lake shelter in Auyuittuq National Park in the southeast comer of Baffin Island, it was late February. The temperature hovered around -25°F and wind was building. We...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Washington, Exfoliation Dome

STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Washington, Exfoliation DomeThis report came from Calvin Hebert (22) and Greg Belding (22).We started late in the morning on June 8, and as there is no trail, it took considerable time to approach the wall. We starte...