Arguments over the wisdom of attempting to honor the “best climb of the year” came to a head before and after the 16th Piolet d’Or ceremony in Grenoble, France, on January 26, 2007. The Piolet d’Or is sponsored by the French magazine Montagnes, wi...
Moro Rock, Pressure Sensitive. The massive west face of Moro Rock has a very conspicuous ramp which cuts the wall at mid-height when viewed from Amphitheater Point. This ramp comprises the center portion of this route, climbed by Dick Leversee, Ed...
Climbing the State High Points of the U. S.Lawrence I. GrinnellEXPEDITIONARY exploration of one’s hobbies, whether geographical, mental, or esthetic, is a fascinating pastime. Comparative expeditions stamp the parts of a project into more vivid co...
Into the Unknown: The Remarkable Life of Hans Kraus. Susan E.B. Schwartz. Lincoln (NE): iUniverse: 2005. 306 pages. Softcover. $21.95.Hans Kraus lived the life most of us dream of. Few manage to balance, let alone excel at, both a professional and...
WHEN the Soviet team arrived in Seattle, we met them, for the first time, during a luncheon in the Plaza Hotel. I arrived a little late and at first glance I could not be sure which of the fifteen persons at the table were the foreigners. A series...
Lemolo Peak, first ascent, After Hours. In September Rolf Larson and I climbed the northeast buttress of the 8,501' summit east of Southeast Mox Peak, often referred to as “Hardest Mox.” We give this previously unclimbed peak an alternate appellat...
hCanadian Summits. R.W. Sandford and Geoff Powter. Alpine Club of Canada, Canmore, Alberta, 1994. 189 pages, innumerable black-and-white photographs. $24.95 Canadian (paper).When I was asked to review this book, sight unseen, I replied, sighing, “...
1951-19981999Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta39611387020750British Columbia2641035887216Yukon Territory332673000Ontario33861213Quebec27758000East Arctic7...
Night Driving, Invention of the Wheel & Other Blues. Dick Dorworth. Foreword by Jack Turner. Livingston, MT: First Ascent Press. 2007. 254 PGS. $25.00.Dorworth, 1975. As an impressionable twenty-one-year-old living in my native Midwest I was d...
Nevado de Famatina. The second ascent of the Nevado de Famatina (20,506 feet), in La Rioja province, was made on November 24, 1958 by Dr. Luis Vita, Elio and Raúl Vergara, Dr. Marcelo Pensa, Aurelio Castelli, and Miguel Conte, of the Club Andino C...
California sunshine, stable weather, and perfect Sierra granite were the ingredients for our new route, Tehipite Sanction (5.12 Cl), on Tehipite Dome. The massive south face and upper dome rises out of the majestic and lonely Kings Canyon. I...
Muzcol Range, Various Ascents. It was reported that a 13-member EWP expedition traveled to the eastern Pamir of Tadjikistan to explore the remote and infrequently visited Muzcol Range. The expedition recorded five first ascents: Snow Leopard Peak ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HATUtah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, PentapitchOn May 19, Michael Thurgood (24), Alex Santy (17), and BJ Huff (19), were climbing Pentapitch, a 5.8 route on the south side of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Mic...
Sunchuli Valley Area, New Routes. Italians Marcello Sanguineti (Club Alpino Italiano Chiavari) and Alessandro Bianchi (CAI-ULE Genova) returned to Bolivia for the second year running to climb three hard new routes in the southern Apolobamba, a.k.a...
Bugaboo Spire, Divine Intervention; Snowpatch Spire, Bugaburl; Pigeon Spire, FFA of Cleopatra's Alley. On August 1 I joined Chris Brazeau for a trip to the Bugaboos. Our first objective was an incomplete aid line to the right of the Midnight Route...
Kangchungtse Tragedy. Nobody knows if this French expedition put anyone on the summit of Kangchungtse or Makalu II or not. Four climbing members made a bid for the summit on November 1 but they turned back late in the afternoon when Denis Jeanvoin...
FALL ON ROCK–DISLODGED ROCK, OFF ROUTE, FATIGUECalifornia, Sierra Nevada, Clyde MinaretOn Saturday, August 16th, Justin Schwartz of Belmont, CA, and Steve Sosa, of Los Angeles, CA, set off to climb the South Face of 12,300-foot Clyde Minaret. Just...
A Visit to Chamonix in 1857(The Diary of Fred Trower, Jr.)In 1857 Fred Trower, Jr., was about 14 years old. Toward the end of July he accompanied his father, mother, sister and a Mr. Winter on a first tour of the Continent, going by Antwerp, Dresd...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. The winter McKinley party composed of Jacques Batkin (36), Gregg Blomberg (25), Arthur L. Davidson (22), John S. Edwards (35), Raymond Genet (35), David P. Johnston (24), Shiro Nishimae (31), and George Wichman (39), flew to ...
In the middle of July my wife Tanja and I were dropped off below the famous walls of Ulamertorssuaq and Nalumatorsoq. We had shared the boat with a British expedition traveling to the head of the fjord, where we would later join them. We survived ...