Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error, Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon

FALL ON ROCK - RAPPEL ERRORUtah, Big cottonwood CanyonOn May 5, a man (22) rappelling in Big Cottonwood Canyon survived a fall of more than 50 feet. He was rappelling with friends near Storm Mountain around 4:00 p.m. He suffered a broken leg and w...


Club Activities AAJ
California Mountaineering Club

California Mountaineering Club. The California Mountaineering Club is now ten years old. We have nearly 300 members, mostly from southern California but with a growing number from all regions of the state and many from other states. We climb mostl...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error — Carabiner Gate Not Closed, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Boulderado Crag

RAPPEL ERROR - CARABINER GATE NOT CLOSED, NO HARD HATColorado, Boulder Canyon, Boulderado CragOn August 17, Andrew Tysinger (23) was on top of the Boulderado Crag with his girlfriend showing her how to rappel when he fell from the top of the crag....


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Inadequate Belay, Arizona, Desert Botanical Garden

FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT, INADEQUATE RELAY Arizona, Desert Botanical GardenOn March 13, 1993, a 17-year-old Chandler boy suffered minor injuries when he fell 50 feet during a mountain-climbing class at Hole-in-the-Rock near the Desert Botanical G...


Book Reviews AAJ
Alpine Days and Nights

Alpine Days and Nights, by W. T. Kirkpatrick, with a Paper by the late R. Philip Hope, and a Foreword by Col. E. L. Strutt, 8 vo., 198 pages, with index and twelve illustrations. London. George Allen & Unwin Ltd., 1932. Price 7/6.This is the s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Himal, Everest, Pre-monsoon, Statistics

Everest, pre-monsoon statistics. The largest number of people in any single season reached the summit of Everest during the spring. An astonishing total of 183 went to the top, 101 from the south and 82 from the north. The total far surpassed the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Baintha Brakk Attempt

Baintha Brakk Attempt. Hans-Christian Hocke, Malte Roeper, Anton Schu hegger, Jürgen Wittmann and I as leader hoped to climb the southwest buttress of Baintha Brakk (Ogre), which the French attempted in 1983 (AAJ, 1984, page 299). We placed Base C...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rappel—No Belay, Inexperience, Nova Scotia, Eagle's Nest

FALL ON RAPPEL—NO BELAY, INEXPERIENCENova Scotia, Eagle’s NestOn April 13, Chris and Ray went out to this popular climbing area to do some basic top- roping. They decided to rappel to the bottom of the 20-meter cliff, even though Chris was not ver...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Himal, Yansa Tsenjui Attempt

Yansa Tsenji attempt. A British commercially-organized expedition led by David Pritt was unsuccessful in an attempt on the east ridge of this recently opened 6,643m peak on the north side of the Langtang Valley (northeast of Kyanjin Gompa). The te...


Notes AAJ
South America, Patagonia

Patagonia. During the early months of 1949, Maynard M. Miller and Robert L. Nichols participated with three Argentine geologists in a glaciological and geomorphological expedition to the Argentine Lake District. The party left Buenos Aires in the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Alberta, Rocky Mountains of Canada, A Note on the Chaba Glacier

A Note on the Chaba Glacier. On July 7th, 1933, being encamped in the eastern fork of the Chaba, E. Cromwell and the writer reoccupied the glacial observation station made by the Harvard party of 1927, at which time (July 28th) the ice was within ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Cholatse Attempt

Cholatse Attempt. Seven Germans led by Hans-Jörg Gutzler failed on their attempt to climb Cholatse by the southwest ridge at 5750 meters.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahul & Spiti, Gangsthang, lower West Face; Thirot Shivling (5,324m)

Gangsthang, lower west face; Thirot Shivling (5,324m). Our team of nine climbers met with cold, variable weather but discovered a magnificent new valley for mountaineering, the Thirot Nala in the Lahaul district of Himachal Pradesh. Initial reconn...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Qionglai Shan, Gurla Range, Ascents and Other Activity

Gurla Range, Ascents and Other Activity. Our team consisted of Tom Simons, Quinn Simons, Soren Peters and myself as guide. Our main objective was Gurla Mondata (7700m), the third-highest peak in Tibet, located in the west near the frontier with In...


Book Reviews AAJ
Climber's Guide to Tahoe Rock

Climber’s Guide to Tahoe Rock. Mike Carville. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO, 1991. 294 pages, photos, maps and topos. Soft cover. $18.00.This is a welcome and much-needed addition to the rapidly-expanding California (and Nevada) guidebook repert...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Mt. Doonerak, First Winter Ascent, Previously Unreported

Mt. Doonerak, First Winter Ascent, Previously Unreported. On March 17, 1996, Jon Miller and I flew into the North Fork of the Koyukuk River and skied up Bombardment Creek, climbing a few frozen waterfalls (up to W13) on the approach to Marshall La...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error, Darkness, Utah, Zion National Park, Prodigal Son

FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR, DARKNESSUtah, Zion National Park, Prodigal SonOn New Years, 1997, John Christensen (36) died while soloing Prodigal Son in Zion National Park. Having fixed two pitches the previous day, he tried to complete the route in...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma Ascent, Attempts and Tragedies in the Post-Monsoon

Shisha Pangma Ascent, Attempts and Tragedies in the Post-Monsoon. Only one climber reached the highest summit of Shisha Pangma in the post-monsoon when Briton Nikola Kekus completed his climb. All others stopped at the lower central summit. Some 1...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Yosemite Valley, Kolana Dome, West Face, El Capitan, Mediterraneo Route

El Capitan, Mediterraneo Route, 1982. Four Spanish brothers, José Luis, Miguel Angel, Carlos and Javier Gallego, made a new route on El Capitan in October 1982. In the lower part it was between the Magic Mushroom and Salathé routes and in the uppe...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II

TABLE II1951-601961Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanada —Alberta 323313British Columbia2410328Yukon Territory000101United States —Atlantic — North401554202— South ...