FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXHAUSTION, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 5, 1985, while “comfortably camped” in an igloo at 5300 meters in some nasty, but not awful, weather, we were awakened by two Dutch climbers who had come o...
Lupghar Sar West and Central. Our group was made up of Dr. Masatsugu Otaishi, Isao Uchida, Tatsuo Nazuka, Yuichi Watanabe, Kunio Kataoka, Hitoshi Shimizu, Toshiyuki Kawasaki and me as leader. We left Nagar on June 16 with 88 porters and got to Bas...
Skiing. Marcel Kurz (A. C.), well-known exponent of mountaineering art, has for several years been giving lessons in skiing (in English) at his chalet in the Swiss Val Ferret, where accommodations for a limited number are available. Particulars ma...
British Columbia, Mt. Tomyhoi. On 9 July Hans (27) and Max Lustenberger (28), and Francois Malden had left camp at the 5,200 foot level. On the ascent one slingless ice axe was lost in the Lustenberger party. The Lustenberger party was joined by o...
FALL ON SNOW, POOR ROUTE SELECTION British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mount AbbottOn July 29, 1987, a party of three was traversing from Sapphire Col to Mount Abbott, a route that requires several ascents and descents primarily over broken rock ...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. On August 28 Base Camp was set up on the west bank of the Imja Glacier, beneath the eastern flank of Island Peak at 17,000 feet. The route to Camp I was begun on September 2 and lay up the rubble-covered glacier and slopes on ...
Selkirk Range: Battle Group. Successes of 1947 in the Battle Group are further described in two papers: C.A.J., XXI (1948), 1 ff. and 140 ff.In 1948 B. G. Ferris, Jr., A. J. Kauffman, 2nd, and W. L. Putnam followed S. B. Hendricks’ 1946 route into...
Appalachian Mountain Club. The mountaineering committee of the AMC continued to train beginners in rock and ice climbing as well as above-timberline camping in the winter during 1967. The Club and its chapters scheduled over 3000 man-days of climb...
Rolwaling Himal. The Rolwaling valley, directly south of Guarisankar, was visited in April by ten members of the Royal Netherlands Alpine Club. From Kathmandu we went by car to Barabise along the “Chinese Road” and from there took the steep road v...
ErrataGlacier Peak. In an editorial comment introducing “The Ascent of Glacier Peak” by the late Thomas Riggs (A.A.J., VII, Jan. 1949, 160-64), the altitude of the mountain is listed as 10,436 ft. A letter from Robert R. Coats, of Cabin John, Md.,...
Mana. A team of 14 Indian climbers from the Army Adventure Foundation and 13 American Army climbers were the first joint team from the Indian and U.S. Armies. They put 26 climbers on the summit (7272 meters, 23,860 feet) by the southwest ridge, fi...
Urgent East Attempt, Wakhan. We had bad luck on our second attempt on Urgent East when on July 26 Jorge Matas fell into a crevasse near Camp II and was killed. We abandoned the climb to return to Spain as quickly as possible. Our first attempt on ...
Unnamed Peak, First Ascent, Prospect Point, Antarctic Peninsula. A group of eight Palestinian and Israeli adventurers—the Breaking The Ice expedition—with another eight support crew, traveled well south down the Peninsula aboard the well-known yac...
Makalu. The French expedition to Makalu left Jogbani on August 21st and encountered the most trying conditions on their approach to the Barun Valley because of the severe monsoon. During a very difficult river crossing over the Dubi, where a bridg...
Langtang Lirung Attempt and Ganja La Chuli Ascent. Our expedition consisted of Marc Chauvin, Henry Kendall, Jeff Pheasant, Nick Yardley, Jeannette Helfrich, Chris Hurtibise, Henry Kohn, Peter Gamache, Dr. Ian Wedmore, Bill and Mike Yeo, Sam Dohert...
FALL ON ROCK - RAPPEL ERRORUtah, Big cottonwood CanyonOn May 5, a man (22) rappelling in Big Cottonwood Canyon survived a fall of more than 50 feet. He was rappelling with friends near Storm Mountain around 4:00 p.m. He suffered a broken leg and w...
California Mountaineering Club. The California Mountaineering Club is now ten years old. We have nearly 300 members, mostly from southern California but with a growing number from all regions of the state and many from other states. We climb mostl...
RAPPEL ERROR - CARABINER GATE NOT CLOSED, NO HARD HATColorado, Boulder Canyon, Boulderado CragOn August 17, Andrew Tysinger (23) was on top of the Boulderado Crag with his girlfriend showing her how to rappel when he fell from the top of the crag....
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT, INADEQUATE RELAY Arizona, Desert Botanical GardenOn March 13, 1993, a 17-year-old Chandler boy suffered minor injuries when he fell 50 feet during a mountain-climbing class at Hole-in-the-Rock near the Desert Botanical G...
Alpine Days and Nights, by W. T. Kirkpatrick, with a Paper by the late R. Philip Hope, and a Foreword by Col. E. L. Strutt, 8 vo., 198 pages, with index and twelve illustrations. London. George Allen & Unwin Ltd., 1932. Price 7/6.This is the s...