Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mount Dragtooth, Northwest Arête

Mount Dragtooth, Northeast Arête. When one views the Sawtooth Ridge from the vicinity of Bridgeport, the prominent northeast arête stands out on Mount Dragtooth. In closer views a classic line is seen directly up its northeast face in a dihedral. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, The Andes, Cotopaxi

Cotopaxi (ca. 19,500 ft.) was climbed on June 13, 1938, by G. H. Bullock, accompanied to about 17,000 ft. by André Roosevelt, who was overcome by the altitude and had to turn back.


Accident Reports ANAM
Banff National Park, Lake Louise Area

Banff National Park, Lake Louise Area. On 17 September Randy Hodgins of Calgary slipped and fell to his death from a rock ledge on the east shoulder of Sheol mountain above the Paradise Valley. He was a member of a party of four persons that left ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Himal, Everest, the Death of Babu Chiri

Everest, the death ofBabu Chiri. Babu Chiri, the incredibly strong and fast mountaineer who was also the most famous Sherpa of recent times, died on April 29 at the age of 35. His most spectacular feats on Everest include staying overnight on the ...


Book Reviews AAJ
My Vertical World

My Vertical World. Jerzy Kukuczka. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1992. 192 pages. $29.95. On a sunny afternoon in the fall of 1989, I was coming off a modest expedition in the Khumbu when I heard that the extraordinary Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukucz...


Accident Reports ANAM
South Dakota, Badlands National Monument

South Dakota, Badlands National Monument—On July 27, a party of 35 Boy Scouts from Fargo, North Dakota, was stopped at the Norbeck Pass Overlook in Badlands National Monument. The weather was very hot, the temperature being 102° F., but several of...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
El Capitan, Golden Gate United States, California, Yosemite Valley

Free climbing on El Capitan: days on a wall, high exposure, awkward chimneys and offwidth stuff, and, last but not least, mostly natural pro—all ingredients for a particularly interesting game. Lynn Hill’s ascent of the Nose was an exploit, an eve...

| Published 2000 | Author Alexander Huber


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Forgot to Untie Safety Knot in Rappel Rope — Jammed in Anchor, Stranded, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan

STRANDED—FORGOT TO UNTIE SAFETY KNOT IN RAPPEL ROPE—JAMMED IN ANCHOR, STRANDEDCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn July 3 Chris Donharl (17), Ben Beezley (17), and Mike Haig (about 25) hauled their bags to Sickle Ledge from the ground but the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K2 Ascent and Tragedy

K2 Ascent and Tragedy. In order to acclimatize our members before attempting K2, we established a training camp near Nanga Parbat from May 18 to June 10. On June 6, ten of our thirteen members reached the summit of Rakhiot Peak (7074 meters, 23,20...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Third Flatiron

Colorado, Third Flatiron. On July 12, a group of boys under Carl Boehm’s leadership was descending the Third Flatiron after a successful ascent. One of the boys, Shaw, lost his footing during a rappel, fell sideways, and struck and lacerated his s...


Feature Article AAJ
The Temple

The TempleWorshipping at Mt. Kenya’s feet, the Nithi Gorge.Alexander JakubowskiFlicking through a back issue of High magazine in the St. Govans Inn at Pembroke one night, I came across an article about climbing in Kenya written by UK South West le...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall in Crevasse—Poor Position, Inadequate Equipment Alberta, Jasper National Park, Athabasca Glacier

On May 18, D.S. and I decided to attempt a ski ascent of North and South Twin, despite the fact that the third member of our party could not come along. The year 2001 was a low snow year, but we felt it was reasonable for the two of us to ascen...

| Published 2001


Feature Article AAJ
Le Piolet d'Or: Whither Prizes for Alpinism

Arguments over the wisdom of attempting to honor the “best climb of the year” came to a head before and after the 16th Piolet d’Or ceremony in Grenoble, France, on January 26, 2007. The Piolet d’Or is sponsored by the French magazine Montagnes, wi...

| Keywords
| Published N/A | Author Marko Prezelj


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California–Sierra Nevada, Moro Rock, Pressure Sensitive

Moro Rock, Pressure Sensitive. The massive west face of Moro Rock has a very conspicuous ramp which cuts the wall at mid-height when viewed from Amphitheater Point. This ramp comprises the center portion of this route, climbed by Dick Leversee, Ed...


Feature Article AAJ
Climbing the State High Points of the U.S.

Climbing the State High Points of the U. S.Lawrence I. GrinnellEXPEDITIONARY exploration of one’s hobbies, whether geographical, mental, or esthetic, is a fascinating pastime. Comparative expeditions stamp the parts of a project into more vivid co...


Book Reviews AAJ
Into the Unknown: The Remarkable Life of Hans Kraus

Into the Unknown: The Remarkable Life of Hans Kraus. Susan E.B. Schwartz. Lincoln (NE): iUniverse: 2005. 306 pages. Softcover. $21.95.Hans Kraus lived the life most of us dream of. Few manage to balance, let alone excel at, both a professional and...


Feature Article AAJ
A Soviet First Ascent in the North Cascades …When tied to the same rope, there is more than one bond that transcends language, culture and ideology

WHEN the Soviet team arrived in Seattle, we met them, for the first time, during a luncheon in the Plaza Hotel. I arrived a little late and at first glance I could not be sure which of the fifteen persons at the table were the foreigners. A series...

| Published N/A


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Lemolo Peak, First Ascent, After Hours

Lemolo Peak, first ascent, After Hours. In September Rolf Larson and I climbed the northeast buttress of the 8,501' summit east of Southeast Mox Peak, often referred to as “Hardest Mox.” We give this previously unclimbed peak an alternate appellat...


Book Reviews AAJ
Canadian Summits

hCanadian Summits. R.W. Sandford and Geoff Powter. Alpine Club of Canada, Canmore, Alberta, 1994. 189 pages, innumerable black-and-white photographs. $24.95 Canadian (paper).When I was asked to review this book, sight unseen, I replied, sighing, “...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II

1951-19981999Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta39611387020750British Columbia2641035887216Yukon Territory332673000Ontario33861213Quebec27758000East Arctic7...