Hell Roaring Canyon, 1984 and 1985. On October 31, 1984 I completed the first ascent of the Witch, one of several Wingate Towers, roughly a quarter of the way up the canyon near its south rim. The route, Midnight Rider (III, 5.7, A3), is highly ae...
Mount Corcoran, Southwest Face. A long approach up the south fork of Tuttle Creek leads to the eastern side of Mount Corcoran’s towers. On May 2 Hooman Aprin, Jack Roberts, and I tried a route on the east face of the second tower of Corcoran, but ...
Mount Paget, South Georgia. A British naval party made the first ascent of the west peak of Mount Paget (9565 feet) in the Allardyce Range on December 13, 1960. The party, Captain V. N. Stevenson, Lt. Comdr. M. K. Burley and Corporal Todd, were la...
Northern Cascades, Washington: (2) Snoqualmie Pass District. On 14 September 1947 a girl fell from Guye Peak while she was descending unroped, in the dark. She was seriously injured. She had done no previous climbing, and the two others in the par...
Cotopaxi. In August David Hambly and I climbed Cotopaxi (19,350 feet). The weather was marginal. Soft snow added to the strenuousness of the climb. We bivouacked at 18,000 feet on the descent.Charles Crenchaw
FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXHAUSTION, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 5, 1985, while “comfortably camped” in an igloo at 5300 meters in some nasty, but not awful, weather, we were awakened by two Dutch climbers who had come o...
Lupghar Sar West and Central. Our group was made up of Dr. Masatsugu Otaishi, Isao Uchida, Tatsuo Nazuka, Yuichi Watanabe, Kunio Kataoka, Hitoshi Shimizu, Toshiyuki Kawasaki and me as leader. We left Nagar on June 16 with 88 porters and got to Bas...
Skiing. Marcel Kurz (A. C.), well-known exponent of mountaineering art, has for several years been giving lessons in skiing (in English) at his chalet in the Swiss Val Ferret, where accommodations for a limited number are available. Particulars ma...
British Columbia, Mt. Tomyhoi. On 9 July Hans (27) and Max Lustenberger (28), and Francois Malden had left camp at the 5,200 foot level. On the ascent one slingless ice axe was lost in the Lustenberger party. The Lustenberger party was joined by o...
FALL ON SNOW, POOR ROUTE SELECTION British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mount AbbottOn July 29, 1987, a party of three was traversing from Sapphire Col to Mount Abbott, a route that requires several ascents and descents primarily over broken rock ...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. On August 28 Base Camp was set up on the west bank of the Imja Glacier, beneath the eastern flank of Island Peak at 17,000 feet. The route to Camp I was begun on September 2 and lay up the rubble-covered glacier and slopes on ...
Selkirk Range: Battle Group. Successes of 1947 in the Battle Group are further described in two papers: C.A.J., XXI (1948), 1 ff. and 140 ff.In 1948 B. G. Ferris, Jr., A. J. Kauffman, 2nd, and W. L. Putnam followed S. B. Hendricks’ 1946 route into...
Appalachian Mountain Club. The mountaineering committee of the AMC continued to train beginners in rock and ice climbing as well as above-timberline camping in the winter during 1967. The Club and its chapters scheduled over 3000 man-days of climb...
Rolwaling Himal. The Rolwaling valley, directly south of Guarisankar, was visited in April by ten members of the Royal Netherlands Alpine Club. From Kathmandu we went by car to Barabise along the “Chinese Road” and from there took the steep road v...
ErrataGlacier Peak. In an editorial comment introducing “The Ascent of Glacier Peak” by the late Thomas Riggs (A.A.J., VII, Jan. 1949, 160-64), the altitude of the mountain is listed as 10,436 ft. A letter from Robert R. Coats, of Cabin John, Md.,...
Mana. A team of 14 Indian climbers from the Army Adventure Foundation and 13 American Army climbers were the first joint team from the Indian and U.S. Armies. They put 26 climbers on the summit (7272 meters, 23,860 feet) by the southwest ridge, fi...
Urgent East Attempt, Wakhan. We had bad luck on our second attempt on Urgent East when on July 26 Jorge Matas fell into a crevasse near Camp II and was killed. We abandoned the climb to return to Spain as quickly as possible. Our first attempt on ...
Unnamed Peak, First Ascent, Prospect Point, Antarctic Peninsula. A group of eight Palestinian and Israeli adventurers—the Breaking The Ice expedition—with another eight support crew, traveled well south down the Peninsula aboard the well-known yac...
Makalu. The French expedition to Makalu left Jogbani on August 21st and encountered the most trying conditions on their approach to the Barun Valley because of the severe monsoon. During a very difficult river crossing over the Dubi, where a bridg...
Langtang Lirung Attempt and Ganja La Chuli Ascent. Our expedition consisted of Marc Chauvin, Henry Kendall, Jeff Pheasant, Nick Yardley, Jeannette Helfrich, Chris Hurtibise, Henry Kohn, Peter Gamache, Dr. Ian Wedmore, Bill and Mike Yeo, Sam Dohert...