El Capitan: Historical Feats and Radical Routes. Daniel Duane. San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 2000. 35 black-and-white photos. 143 pages. $24.95.The endpapers of Dan Duane’s book feature a double-page spread of the Grand Topo of El Capitan. Route...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE,DARKNESS Colorado, El Diente PeakJoe Yearm (28) was descending El Diente Peak (14,159 feet) in the San Juan National Forest alone after dark on Saturday July 16 when he fell 20 feet into a snowfield and fractured his l...
Spantik. Our expedition was composed of Helga Kircher, Rolf-Christian Reich, Emilie-Ursula Reich, Dr. Wolgang Bunzl, Ludwig Rohrmeier, Franz Kuhnhauser, Johann Geiss, Reinhard Schönfeld, Eberhart Zindel, Netherlander Gerhard Meerten and me as lead...
Payu Attempt. We had bad luck on Payu (less correctly written Paiju) this year. The members were Jean François Porret, Raymond Coène, Simone Badier, Jean Bourgeois, Dr. Lucien Honnilh and I as leader. We tried to climb Payu by the route attempted ...
Southern Patagonian Continental Icecap. From January to April another group of our Club was in the northern part of this region, where they accomplished the first north to south traverse of the northern part of the southern icecap. Starting from L...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (6)—On September 1, 1956 Miss Julie Griffin (21) and other members of the party were approaching the summit of the Durrance Ridge on Symmetry Spire. The belay rope running from Miss Griffin to her belayer caught ...
Italian Expedition to Qioqe Peninsula, Northwest Greenland. North of Umanak and of Alfred Wegener’s Halv-oe, between mighty fjords, lies a peninsula, whose mountains rise directly from sea level to 7500 feet, often with impressive cliffs. Broad gl...
Tengkangpoche, north pillar, attempt. Paul Bride, John Furneaux, and I attempted the unclimbed north pillar of Tengkangpoche (6,487m). Base camp was at 4,350m and Paul made it as far as 5,000m, capturing an amazing series of video, digital, and fi...
Kang Yassay, West Peak. The expedition (Mike Ratty, leader, Trevor Willis, John Shelley, John Lovett and Nick Fellowes) had planned an ascent and exploration of the unclimbed Thalda Kurmis, in the Rupshu region of Ladakh. Permission for the peak w...
New Climbs in the Sawtooth Range. The west face of “Castle Spires” was climbed by Keith Spencer and Art Filion via gullies and chimneys to a heather patch, followed by cracks and ribs to the summit. Though moderate, the exposure and lack of belay ...
Ernst Hodel: Das Werk eines Malers, by F. Balsiger, R. von Tavel, G. Staffelbach, A. J. Welti and J. B. Rusch. 98 pages, 95 illustrations (26 in full color). Lucerne: Verlag J. Nietlispach, 1951.This book celebrates the 70th birthday of one of the...
Twin Sisters, “Skookum Peak.” The Twin Sisters Range has a number of peaks ranging between 5600 and 6700 feet which are worthwhile climbs on solid granite rock. On May 31, 1969, Dave Dixon and I made a first ascent of this 6500-foot peak located a...
Northern Chile. A light archaelogical expedition sent by the Santiago section of the Club Andino de Chile travelled to the Antofagasta area and from a base camp at 13,000 feet on the flat pampa near the ancient Indian village of Toconao, made a nu...
León Blanco, West Face. A group of the Santiago section of the Club Andino de Chile made on February 1977 the first ascent of the west face of Cerro León Blanco (5195 meters, 17,045 feet). The summit was reached by H. Feilenberg, G. and S. Kunstma...
Abi has been climbed several times from the southeast and southwest but had not been attempted from the west until July 2009, when He Lang and I tried from the Jiesigou Valley. The peak lies between the north end of the Shuangqiao Valley and...
Attempt on Wickersham Wall, Mount McKinley. On May 17 Dan Davis, Stu Ferguson, Warren Bleser and I flew to Anchorage with food and equipment for an attempt on the huge north face of Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall. On Saturday the 20th we finally ...
Peak 10,070' (a.k.a. The Bear’s Tooth), East Face, The Useless Emotion. In May, Jim Bridwell, Brian McCray, Brian Jonas, Glenn Dunmire and Terry Christensen established a new route on the east face of Peak 10,070' (a.k.a. The Bear’s Tooth). The Us...
High Country Names. Rocky Mountain National Park, by Louisa Ward Arps and Elinor Eppich Kingery, assisted by Hugh E. Kingery. Denver : The Colorado Mountain Club, 1966. Illustrations, maps; paper cover. Price, $4.95.Although the Rocky Mountain Nat...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, HYPOTHERMIAWashington, Mt. BakerOn September 22, four men from British Columbia were climbing Mt. Baker when two of them fell into a crevasse. The primary victim, Dennis Wheatley (50), fell while jumping across a crevasse openi...
FALL ON ROCK—PROTECTION PULLED OUT, LATE START—DARKNESSNorth Carolina, Sauartown MountainIn early May, two male climbers (22 and 21) started a route at Sauartown Mountain late in the day. The leader placed a cam and a stopper prior to clipping the...