North Howser Spire, The Shooting Gallery. In September, Christian George and I did a new route on the 3000-foot west face of North Howser Spire in the Bugaboos, British Columbia. The Shooting Gallery (VI 5.10 A2+), climbs the southwest buttress, s...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PROBLEMS, PULLING RELAYERS OFFNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksThirteen accidents were reported in 1992, six of which resulted in fractures—the most serious injuries. In two cases, belayers were pulled from t...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTENorth Carolina, Stone MountainOn October 21, we approached the base of Stone Mountain to climb U-Slot (5.7) and then the Great Arch (5.5). On our way to the climb, I noticed two men moving rather slowly across the boulder fi...
Kohe Purwakshan, Wakhan Pamir. The Warsaw expedition was made up of M. Kolaczkowski, Z. Gmaj, W. Gorzko, J.S. Graczyk, M. Mikolajczyk, W. Obojski, S. Saganek, K. Sierakowski, M. Sygowski and me. Our primary object was to explore the Purwakshan val...
The Mountaineers. The year 1959 marked the twenty-fifth anniversary of The Mountaineers’ Climbing Course. Thousands of the course’s graduates have trod the summits of nearly all the Cascade peaks and have climbed many other mountains throughout th...
FALLS ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, RAPPEL ANCHOR KNOT CAME UNDONE, HAND HOLD CAME OFF California, Joshua Tree National ParkThere were nine climbing and four scrambling incidents reported from this location in 1994. Three of the scramblers were ...
HARRIET TRUMBULL PARSONS1901-1991Harriet Trumbull Parsons died on May 11 in Pacific Grove, California. She was born on October 26, 1901 in San Mateo, California, the daughter of the Right Reverend Edward L. Parsons, bishop of the Episcopal Diocese...
AlaskaMt. Marcus Baker (Mt. St. Agnes). The highest point (13,250 ft.) in the Chugach Mountains at the head of Prince William Sound, Alaska, appears alternately as Mt. Marcus Baker or Mt. St. Agnes on U. S. Government maps. The mountain was climbe...
Mount Logan. Mount Logan was by far the most popular mountain with nine expeditions: 6 via the King Trench route, 1 via the east ridge, 1 via the south-southeast spur and one attempt on the southwest ridge and south face. The following climbed via...
Yosemite Valley, Various Activity. On El Cap, Leo Houlding, assisted by José Pereyra, established the dynamic Passage to Freedom (runout 5.13c/d A0), a free variation of New Dawn to the top of El Cap Tower (see below). Meanwhile, Michael Mayr and ...
On June 1, the victim (28) climbed about 30 feet up the Bastille Crack, slipped while making a traverse, and while falling pulled out his only piece of protection and consequently hit the ground.(Editor’s Note: Protection pulling out—or simply ina...
Richard Leech, Oliver Shergold, Martin Shelley, Polly Truscott, Punit Khare, Louise Rickard, Rob Haddock, Roy Bannerman and I as leader made up the Imperial College Pamir Expedition. We joined 11 Russians from Kazan for six weeks of climbing in th...
Mount Hunter, North Ridge. The north ridge of Hunter was climbed in May by Dave Adams, Mike Kalvelage, John Marconi and me. We were flown to the north fork of the Tokositna Glacier on May 7 and established Base Camp at 8500 feet near the landing z...
Mount Foraker. Mount Foraker was climbed by its southeast ridge, first by John Tuckey and Rob Kimbrough and then by Glenn Randall and Peter Metcalf.
FALL ON ROCK, PITON/NUT FAILURE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. LouisClaude Puguay and Daniel Parent, both experienced rock climbers, were climbing Mt. Louis on 9 July 1979. Thinking they were on the standard route, which starts up the east face, th...
Haystack, Southwest Face, 1979. In the summer of 1979, from the lowest point of the south end of the southwest face of Haystack, I soloed up the slab leading to a left-diagonalling crack above the small roofs. I followed the crack for a single rop...
Aksai Chin, north summit, second ascent, southeast route. As reported in AAJ 2006, p. 439, Aksai Chin (7,167m: sometimes referred to as Kun Lun, as it is the highest peak in this part of Kun Lun Range) was climbed in 1986 and 1997 by Japanese expe...
Annapurna 1, Winter Attempt and Tragedy. A Korean expedition led by Kim Teuk-Hee formed the season's largest expedition of eight members and nine Nepalese in a winter attempt on the north face of Annapurna (8091 meters). On December 2, at the begi...
East Peak of Mount Stutfield. It was the assumption of many that, with the ascent of the Center Peak of Mount Bryce in 1961, the last 11,000- foot peak of the Canadian Rockies had been climbed. Bill Hooker and I were therefore rather surprised to ...
Mount Case, Glacier Bay National Monument. Peter H. Robinson and I ascended this graceful peak in July via the first couloir north of the summit on the west side in a 16-hour day from Dirt Glacier outwash. The difficulties we encountered with the ...