North Lemon Mountains, first ascent of The Spear and others. As our drop-off point was not a suitable base for climbing in the Lemon Mountains, Geoff Cohen and I left for the Frederiks-borg Glacier 19 miles away. Two days’ of travel were needed to...
MERL LAVOY1886-1953It was in the spring of 1910 that Herschel Parker and I first met Merl LaVoy. We were in Seattle completing the final arrangements for our 1910 Mt. McKinley trip when he volunteered to join us as expedition photographer. One loo...
Breidablik, Asgard and Other Peaks, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. Our German Alpine Club (DAV) Training Expedition was active on Baffin Island from June 30 to August 18. We established our Base Camp on the southeast bank of the Weasel River...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 27 January Robert Ellenberg (19), C. Neale Yoder (25), and Scott Stevens (19), apparently were descending Huntington Ravine between Central and Damnation Gullys. The reason for the fall was not known, but it is pr...
SHOULDER DISLOCATION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount ThroneOn August 24, 1988, five climbers were short-roping on moderate terrain on an intermediate rock climb as part of a warden service training climb. Just below the summit ridge, while one of ...
Various ascents. Our expedition included Stanko Mihev, Franc and Janeta Pusnik, Samo Rupreht, Matjaz Prislan, Marko Anzelak, Igor Plesivcnik, Peter Naglia, Peter Jeromel, and me as leader. We started from Malma on June 30, with 20 horses for the 1...
West Ridge of the Middle Teton. The long west ridge of the Middle Teton was ascended for the first time on August 4, 1955, by William Buckingham and Mary Lou Nohr. From the south fork of Cascade Canyon we followed a broad couloir into the lower en...
North Baird Glacier and Ratz Peak Area. Six Canadians, Roger Neave, Franz Bislin, Bill Perry, Mike Walsh, Bob Tustin and I, explored the North Baird Glacier on the Stikine Icecap to Boundary Peak 73 and crossed over to the south arm of the Dawes G...
Mount Berge, East Ridge and East Face, Glacier Park Wilderness. On June 23, about five miles up the Buck Creek Pass trail, Garth Ferber and I glimpsed Mount Berge. We crossed Buck Creek and ascended the wooded east ridge of P 7625 to 5800 feet. We...
K2, South-Southeast Spur Attempt. Jaime Alonso, Txema Cámera, Ramón Portilla, Juanjo Sebastián, Koldo Tapia, Martín Zabaleta, Sirdar Abdul Karin and I set up Base Camp on the Godwin Austen Glacier at the foot of the south face of K2 on July 14. We...
Nuptse, Northwest Summit. A five-person German expedition to Nuptse was led by Ralf Dujmovits. On November 2, they climbed the northwest ridge to the northwest summit (7742 meters, 25,400 feet), still about 400 feet short of the true summit.Elizab...
Mount Queen Mary, Northeast Face. In the Royal Group of the Canadian Rockies, south of Assiniboine, Mount Queen Mary has a spectacular long ice face on its unnamed northeast hanging glacier. The face was climbed this fall for the first time and ap...
Liayliak Valley, Pik 4,600m, north face. During the summer Taras Cushko, Sasha Homenko, and I (Lavrinenko) from Odessa put up a new route on the north face of Pik 4,600m. There was only one line on this face, the Bashkirov Route, which diagonals u...
Langtang Lirung, Post-Monsoon Southeast Ridge Attempts. Two expeditions attempted Langtang Lirung (7225 meters, 23,705 feet) by the southeast ridge in the post-monsoon period. British led by James Grey got to 6100 meters on October 31. Japanese un...
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, NO HARD HAT Washington, Cascade MountainsOn Saturday, August 20, 1988, my climbing partner Meryl Douglas and I, Stephen DiBiase (32), set out on what was to be an easy Class 2 hike up Cashmere Mountain (2757 met...
Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash-Perú . Jim Bartle. Dai Nippon, Tokyo, 1985. 40 pages, 68 color and 4 black-and-white photographs, 3 sketch maps. Paper. $8.00.
Road to Rakaposhi, by George Band ; with Chapters Two and Five by Ted Wrangham and Chapter Seven by George Band and Roger Chorley. Also two appendices by David Fisher. 192 pages, 47 photographs, 4 maps. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1955. Price,...
Gran Campo Nevada, above the Straits of Magellan. For 40 days Peter Bruchhausen, Jack Miller and William Rodarmor explored the region north of the Straits of Magellan. They left Punta Arenas on November 23 and emerged at Puerto Natales, having cov...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. It seems to be the opinion of many Eastern climbers, and almost the general consensus among those in the West, that the only creditable climbing in the East exists either in the Gunks or at Seneca Rock. For those who...
Dragontail Peak. Dick Heffernan and Skip Edmonds made the first winter ascent of the Wickwire-Stanley route in February, 1975.