Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahul & Spiti, Pangi Valley, Sersank Peak, Attempt; Peak 5,027m, First Ascent

Pangi Valley, Sersank Peak, attempt; Peak 5,027m, first ascent. A small British expedition explored the upper Tiaso Nala and the area of the Sersank Pass in late June and early July 2007. The team, consisting of Rob Ferguson, Graham Little, Jim Lo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Mt. Hess, East Buttress, Second Ascent, Previously Unreported

Mt. Hess, East Buttress, Second Ascent, Previously Unreported. In May, 1997, Jon Miller and I climbed up snow and low-fifth-class rock from the upper Gillam Glacier at 4,640 feet to the upper basin (8,400') beneath the north ridge. After a storm d...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Canyonlands

Canyonlands. Several new Wingate Spires have been scaled recently in Canyonlands. Leonard Coyne, Ellen Figi and I made the first ascent of Bridger Jack, a500-foot butte, this summer. Our route, Wild Flower (III, 5.10), ascends prominent 5.9 cracks...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California–Sierra Nevada, New Routes on Grand Sentinel and North Dome, Kings' Canyon National Park

New Routes on Grand Sentinel and North Dome, Kings’ Canyon National Park. In July, Bruce Bourassa and I climbed Cosmopolis, a new route on the Grand Sentinel, which we believe to be the third route on the formation and the first new route in 10 ye...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Lindbergh Fjeld Range, Lindbergh Fjeld, Multiple First Ascents

Lindbergh Fjeld, Multiple First Ascents. In July and August, the team of Mike Berthold, Paul Campion, Jonathan Clark, Sam Dickinson, Chris and Vanessa Helliwell, Ben Irons, David Keaton, Adrian Pedley, and Paul Walker climbed a number of peaks. Ja...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam Ascent and Tragedy

Ama Dablam, Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was led by Guido Bu- mann and I was the climbing leader. Other members were Ruth Beck, Lieselotte Schmidt, Maya Senn, Heidi Cadisch, Christoph Jetzler, Fritz Maurer, Max Wettstein, Christoph Häuter, S...


Club Activities AAJ
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers

Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Devils Lake was the site for numerous outings in the spring, summer, and fall seasons. We are currently gathering material for a guide to the climbs in this area. Several week-end trips were also made to the Mississi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchungtse Tragedy

Kangchungtse Tragedy. Nobody knows if this French expedition put anyone on the summit of Kangchungtse or Makalu II or not. Four climbing members made a bid for the summit on November 1 but they turned back late in the afternoon when Denis Jeanvoin...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No Hard Hat, California, Joshua Tree National Monument

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn December 21, 1986, Lawrence DeLong (38) was lead climbing “Double Cross,’” a 5.7 crack on Old Woman Rock. He was approximately six meters from the ground,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Baintha Brakk II, First Ascent, Via Northwest Buttress Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh

A Korean expedition led by Yoon Dae-pyo made the first ascent of Baintha Brakk II (Ogre II, 6,960m) by the northwest buttress. They established two camps on the glacier and one on the buttress. Rope was fixed between Camps 2 and 3. Lim Deok-yong a...

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Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhampus

Dhampus. On October 15, Japanese Shigeyuki Baba, leader, and Kenichiro Kawaguchi and Gaja Bahadur Gurung climbed to the summit of Dhampus (6012 meters, 19,724 feet) by its southwest face and west ridge.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Kumaon and Garhwal, Shayamvarn and Yogeshwar

Matri. Thirteen climbers from Durgapur were led by Swapan Kumar Ghosh. They set up Base Camp near the snout of the Matri Glacier on August 14. On September 1, the leader and Arvind Patel climbed to the summit (6721 meters, 22,050 feet).Kamal K. Gu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Mount Robson, Ski Descent of the North Face

Mount Robson, Ski Descent of the North Face. It was reported that Troy Jungen and Peter Spricenieks skied the North Face of Mount Robson in September, experiencing tricky and dangerous snow conditions with around 18 inches of wind crust, transitio...


In Memoriam AAJ
Alfred Adolphe Couttet, Armand Charlet, Georges Tairraz

Koshtantau, Caucasus. Vera Watson led four climbers representing the American Alpine Club at the second session of the Inter-nation Camp Bezengi in August. The others were Margaret Young, Robert Summers and I. Thirty-nine climbers from six countri...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, A Field Institute in the Mountain and Expeditionary Sciences, Juneau Icefield

A Field Institute in the Mountain and Expeditionary Sciences, ]uneau Icefield. A permanent field facility to provide an academic and practical training program for students interested in polar, mountain and glacial sciences has been established in...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Climbing on Thin Ice Alberta, Ghost River, The Sorcerer

On February 13, C.W. (26) and I, M.H. (38), were climbing The Sorcerer, a Grade V water ice climb. The first pitch went up a thin, mid-angled shield to a lower-angled dish from which the line headed right across slabby terrain and up to a short, s...

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Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Campa I, Cordillera Vilcanota

Campa I, Cordillera Vilcanota. On August 311 soloed Campa I and the following day Argentine Alberto Miori and I repeated the climb. Deteriorating weather and Miori’s health prevented further attempts in the Campa group and our attempt on Ausangate...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Kumaon, Peaks Southwest of Tirsuli

Peaks Southwest of Tirsuli. Two unnamed peaks (20,300 and 19,900 feet) southwest of Tirsuli were scaled on May 29 and 31 respectively by a team sponsored by Bombay University.2 They attempted another unnamed peak of 22,940 feet but failed to climb...


Accident Reports ANAM
Olympics, Washington: (1) Mt. Anderson

Olympics, Washington: (1) Mt. Anderson. On 4 September 1948 a party of five, including Ronald Nece (21), hiked into the Olympics from the Dosewallips Ranger Station to the Anderson Pass shelter. On the 5th the party crossed Anderson Glacier and Fl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming-Tetons, Teton Climbs, Art & Brent Pinnacle

Teton Climbs. Art & Brent Pinnacle. In September 1984, Renny Jackson and Tom Kimbrough climbed a newly discovered and difficult pinnacle on the south side of Cascade Canyon, on the east side of the main Teewinot-Owen cirque. The route required...