British Columbia Mountaineering Club. The 1967 season was an active one with the favorable influences of good weather and Canadian Centennial projects. Our schedule featured 70 trips ranging from short hikes and snowshoe outings to long class 4 an...
Gurja Himal, Northwest Spur and North Ridge. Our expedition was organized by the Lyon Section of the French Alpine Club and supported by the Féderation Française de la Montagne. The members were Pierre Buttin, leader, Mlle N. Brocard, Mme Y. Butti...
François de Ribaupierre. The name of the Swiss painter mentioned in the note appended to the memorial to Mrs. Colt (A.A.J., VII, Sept. 1949, 329) should be—as Marjorie Hooker, of McLean, Va., has pointed out— François de Ribaupierre, not “Ritanpie...
Gangotri Region. The north ridge of Gangotri I was climbed by Manzoor Ahmed and Bimal Chandra Goswami of Assam on May 18. A 13-member team of Himalaya’s Beckon from Calcutta set up Base Camp at 4510 meters on May 14 and Camps I, II and III on May ...
Three Expeditions to the Hindu Kush. Poles led by J. Wala made various ascents: in the Qadzi Deh: Aspe Safed (21,325 feet) and P 6250 (20,506 feet) between Aspe Safed and Noshaq; on the frontier chain towards the Zebak district: six 5000-meter (16...
Mount Paget, Alladyce Range, North East Spur. In November 2003 a Spanish team including José Carlos Tamayo made a rare ascent of Mt. Paget (2,935m), the highest peak on the island of South Georgia and the highest on British soil. They repeated the...
Barun Valley. In 1952 Shipton, Evans, Hillary, and I reached the Barun Glacier and descended it. Makalu was then unexplored and the lower Barun was of great beauty. We planned to return. The New Zealand Alpine Club was fired by our descriptions an...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HATUtah, Indian Creek, Cat WallOn May 17, a man and his wife and their two friends (ages unknown) were climbing Johnny Cat (5.12+). The man was going for the ...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. The Arizona Mountaineering Club (AMC) increased its membership in 1999 to more than 500 and added new programs for its members. The Club meets the fourth Monday of each month in Phoenix. Speakers at these meetings incl...
ROCK GAVE AWAY - FALL ON ROCKColorado, Indian PeaksOn August 21, Glenn Porzak (64), his son Austin Porzak, and Robert Petrowsky were climbing on the East Ridge between Little Pawnee Peak (12,466 feet) and Pawnee Peak (12,943 feet). Sometime during...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE BELAY,NO HARD HATArizona, Oak Creek Canyon OverlookOn May 22, 1993, on a climb called “Crack Up” (5.9), Richard Forbes (34) was leading above his belayer, Sandra Draus (46), who was apparently 25 fee...
An Epitome of Fifty Years’ Climbing, by Claude Wilson. Printed for private distribution. 1933.Written at the instigation of Mr. Henry F. Montagnier and limited to 125 copies for private distribution, the main part of this book consists of a tabula...
Everest, oldest and youngest summiteers. The oldest person ever to reach the summit was a 64- year-old American physician, Sherman (“Sherm”) Bull. He was joined at the top by his son, Bradford (“Brad”) Bull (33). The pair were only the second fath...
Rakaposhi Attempt. David Reeder, Roger Gocking, Ray Kalio and I attempted the Dutch variation to the Pakistani-Polish route on the northwest ridge of Rakaposhi in July and August. We were joined by Poles Aleksander Lwow and Piotr Snopczynski, who ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNova Scotia, Eagle’s Nest, “No Man’s Land”September 30 was a great climbing day at Eagles Nest. The cool morning air of Fall was quickly warming up, the skies were clear, and the rock was cool to the touch. It wa...
Triangle Peak, attempt on west (southwest) couloir. By October 1, 2001 all of our gear was at Pemthang Karpo Kharkha (4,675m), our campsite in the Langtang Valley. It used to be a classic stop for pirates on route to Xixabangma. Looking north from...
Aconcagua. On 19 February 1949 Lieutenant William D. Hackett reached the summit of Aconcagua in company with an Argentine officer, Lieutenant Jorge Mottet. Hackett thus became the first to have ascended both McKinley and Aconcagua. The five-man cl...
Saskatchewan Glacier. No measurements were made, but the upper course was examined from Castle guard meadows on July 1st, 1937. The glacier has receded more than 200 ft. from the S. lateral moraine where horses were taken on the ice in 1923. This ...
Cho Oyu, Southwest Face. The only people to climb Cho Oyu from Nepal in the post-monsoon accomplished a remarkable achievement. They were just two Japanese women and a man: Miss Taeko Nagao, leader and Miss Yuka Endo, both already with three 8000e...
Pangi Valley, Sersank Peak, attempt; Peak 5,027m, first ascent. A small British expedition explored the upper Tiaso Nala and the area of the Sersank Pass in late June and early July 2007. The team, consisting of Rob Ferguson, Graham Little, Jim Lo...