Appalachian Mountain Club. As in the past, club members participated in mountaineering endeavors throughout the world. Perhaps some of the most noteworthy rock climbing both in the U.S. and the British Isles has been that performed by Henry Barber...
Dhaulagiri II Attempt. A seven-member South Korean expedition led by Ryu Si-Dong hoped to climb Dhaulagiri II (7751 meters, 25,430 feet) by the south face to the east ridge. They had to give up on April 6 at 6300 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
NOEL E. ODELL 1890-1987The distinguished climber, geologist and friend, Noel E. Odell, died on February 21, 1987, as we were about to go to press. He became a member of the American Alpine Club in 1928 and was made an honorary member in 1936. A co...
Les Alpinistes Célébres by Henry de Ségogne and Jean Couzy. Paris: Editions d’Art Lucien Mazenod, 1956. 416 pages; 221 plates (8 in color). Price 6200 Fr. francs (approx. $18.00).In vast conception and noteworthy execution, the editors and 71 coll...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE AND INADEQUATE PROTECTION—Wyoming, The Tetons, Disappointment Peak. David Sheridan (28) and Chancey Bittner attempted a roped technical climb of Irene’s Arete on the South Side of Disappointment Peak on August 25. Sheridan ...
Mount Alberta, North Face. In mid September Kit Lewis and I made the second ascent of the north face of Mount Alberta. We spent a day walking from the Banff-Jasper highway over the Woolley shoulder to the northeast shoulder of Alberta. We spent th...
Mount McKinley, Northwest Buttress, Second Ascent, 1982. Alan Novey, David Shrimpton, John Rehmer, Jim Snyder, John Stolpman and I skied up the Kahiltna Glacier to Kahiltna Pass (10,000 feet) and climbed down to the Peters Glacier (8000 feet). It ...
ICE AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Slesse MountainEric Dirksen (24) and Seph Fraden (24) were approaching Slesse’s northeast buttress about 3 p.m. on August 1, 1980. The weather was hot and the route passes under a hanging glacier fro...
Mount Viets and 4811, Ascents. French alpininsts Erik Decamp and Catherine Destivelle made two first ascents in Antarctica. A full account of their climbs appears earlier in this journal.
New York Section. The beginning of any new decade brings with it a moment of reflection and analysis. During the 2000’s the New York Section Alpine Club Community almost doubled in size. Perhaps more important than membership growth, however, was ...
Denali, First Double Amputee to Summit. Korean climber Kim Hong Bin became the first double amputee to summit Denali, which he did via the West Buttress route. Bin had lost both hands to frostbite on a 1991 Denali accident.Denali National Park Rep...
Illampu. Our five-man expedition climbed Illampu (6362 meters, 20,873 feet) by the 1964 Yugoslavian route up the west ridge. Only Jan Häusler and I reached the summit on June 18. This was the first Norwegian ascent of the peak.Terje Kleiven, Norsk...
Illimani. We two made access through the village of Mina Urania by a long moraine which rises directly to the southwest face of Illimani. Our first attempt was in the middle of the face which we climbed in very difficult gullies, hoping to reach a...
Mt. Kennedy, northwest face. As a two-man team, Jon Bracey and I wanted a challenging mixed objective we could attempt alpine style, and the northwest face of Mt. Kennedy fit the bill perfectly. In 1996 Jack Tackle and Jack Roberts climbed their P...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Lundin PeakOn May 9, 1982, Agris Moruss (40) fell 450 meters to his death. He was leading a student party of ten from the Boeing Alpine Club, with two other instructors, to the summit of Lundin Peak. He wa...
Italian Expedition to Tibet and Pakistan to Conduct Further Observations on the Altitude of Mount Everest and K2. (Professor Ardito Desio, who organized and was in overall charge of the group that undertook the new measurements, has kindly supplie...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn August 17, 1984, a climber named Ernie Milan described the following accident to park rangers.About 1200 on August 17, 1984, Milan was with a partner at the base of Lo...
Torres del Paine, Season Overview and a Note on Permits. The weather this season was the worst since at least 1996. From October to late March, we had maybe ten days of good weather for climbing. But March was excellent: we had more nice days in t...
Lexington Spire, East Face, Right Side, “Tooth and Claw.” This seven-pitch route ascends slabs, roofs and discontinuous systems to the right of the standard east-face route. On June 24, Dave Tower and I scrambled to the highest ledge at the base o...
STRANDED, WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, FOOD, AND EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Higher Cathedral RockOn May 15, Christopher Simmons (26) and Emily Craft (28) became benighted on the eleventh pitch of the North East Buttress route on Higher...