Mount Whitney, East Face. On June 16, David Wilson and I ascended a new all-free route, Left Wing Extremist (V, 5.11a, 16 pitches) on this 2000-foot granite wall to the left of the old Direct East-Face route. We ascended a pedestal for two pitches...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Liberty Bell MountainMy climbing partner and I (Larry Deyo, 35) had completed the second pitch of the Becky Route on Liberty Bell, and it was my turn to lead. We were climbing with two o...
Lord of Alaska, by Hector Chevigny. 8vo., 320 pages, including bibliography, index and end-paper map. New York: Viking Press, 1942. Price $3.00.This is the story of Aleksandr Baranov and the Russian adventure in Alaska, and should be read by those...
A Guide to Trekking in Nepal. Stephen Bezruchka. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1981. 256 pages, black-and-white photographs, sketch maps, glossary, bibliography. $8.95.A Guide to Trekking in Nepal is the best and most comprehensive guidebook of its k...
Notable Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, 1989. I feel that the international press has exaggerated the danger to climbers in the Cordillera Blanca. Despite many fewer climbers, many have visited the region safely during the past year. Among other...
Incahuasi, Ruta de las Peladas. Incahuasi (6,638m) lies on the Chile-Argentina border in the central Andes and is one of the highest volcanoes on earth. It was also one of the highest points ascended by the Incas for religious purposes. On April 1...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn November 16,1986, a report of a fallen climber on Jimmy Cliff rock was called in. John Hayward (43) was leading “Third World” (5.9), and while trying to place protecti...
Mustagh Tower Attempt. The Fantasy Ridge Mustagh Tower Expedition arrived at Base Camp at 14,000 feet on the Baltoro Glacier on August 8. The team included Lyle Dean, Steve Gall, Doug Snively and me. Dean replaced Peter Habeler, who had to cancel ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE California, Lone Pine PeakOn April 30, 1988, Dave Dykeman and a small group of climbers were descending from a peak climb that was aborted due to high winds. There was a week old snow cover on a variably breakabl...
Makalu. The French expedition to Makalu led by Jean Franco deserves high praise. Thanks to excellent organization, splendid equipment, especially in their oxygen apparatus, perfect and nearly windless weather and a strong team of climbers, they ma...
North Baffin-Bylot Expedition. Our object was exploratory mountaineering in the “high arctic.” We began operations from the settlement of Pond Inlet at the north end of Baffin Island in early August, returning in early September. Utilizing a chart...
Colorado, North Maroon Bell. On 9 October James T. Slade and Marcie Roseman (22) climbed the North Maroon Bell from Crater Lake and reached the top about noon. After an hour of rest they descended the mountain towards the snow-fields on the Crater...
HAPE, DESIRE TO DO WELLAlaska, Mount McKinleyCraig Scott (30) was a member of a RMI expedition to climb the West Buttress route on Mount McKinley. The expedition flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier on June 2, 1990. Scott was a triathlete and was doing ...
Swedish Everest Attempt. We are still waiting for details about a large Swedish expedition led by Ebbe Wahlund that attempted the North-Col route on Everest. They established Camp IV on the North Col late in April and Camp V at 7500 meters. We do ...
Disteghil Sar. The team consisted of four other British—David Briggs, Dennis Davis, John Cunningham, Keith Warburton—and one Italian, Piero Ghiglione, under my leadership. We went during May, June, and July 1957 to make a reconnaissance of Distegh...
Cerro Stanhardt and Torre Egger Attempts, 1993-4. From October 30, 1993 to January 24, 1994, we attempted two difficult new routes. Lorenzo Ortiz and I met our Argentine teammate, Teo Plaza, in Calafate and on October 30, we arrived at the Bridwel...
Annapurna IV Ascent, Possible Ascent and Tragedy on Annapurna II. Our expedition had as members Park Duk-Woo, Chang Byung-Ho, Jeong Jae-Ho, Kim Yong-Kyu, Jeong Kab-Yong, Jeong Joon-Mo, Lee Su-Jin, Cho Won-Bae and me as leader. We set up Base Camp ...
Notes on Names of Peaks in the Cordillera Huayhuash. The Quechua of different regions of Peru differs considerably. On the eastern slope of the Cordillera Huayhuash it is quite different from that of the Cordillera Blanca. For that reason and beca...
Gábor Berecz, Peter Dékàny, György Kiszely, Attila Szikdzai, and I placed Base Camp near Kedar Tal at 4740 meters on August 24. Due to constant cloudy and rainy weather, we were not too active for the first two weeks. On August 30, we established ...
Mango Gusor Attempt. Our team consisted of Bob Cuthbert, Canadian, Steve Kaagan, American, Bruce McPherson, Australian, John Sheard, Keith Nannery, Bob Shaw, Howie Richardson and me, British. We received permission to climb in the Karakoram only t...