Aguja Guillaumet. In checking ascents on the Aguja Guillaumet, we find several ascents which have not been mentioned in the A.A.J. Two routes near the Italian one were made by French climbers in 1968 which were reported in the Annales du Groupe de...
Around to the right from the Orion’s Reflection wall is more good rock, though the wall is not as high. There, Jason Keith and Alan Hunt established the Flight of the Golden Camalot (IV 5.11). The route begins with a ramp, followed by a step left....
Deoban1. All twelve members of the Indian Military Academy at Dehra Dun climbed Deoban (22,490 feet) either on June 17 or 20. Deoban lies above the Zaskar valley and is east of Mana Peak; it was first climbed by Frank Smythe’s party in 1937. The I...
Annapurna III, Second Ascent, Ladies Expedition. Our expedition consisted of the following ladies: Mrs. Junko Tabei, deputy leader, Misses Eiko Hirano, Chieko Urushibara, Hiroko Hirakawa, Reiko Sato, Michiko Manita, Morie Yamazaki, Kyoko Ohno, doc...
Northern Cascades, Washington: (3) Mt. St. Helens. On 10 August 1948 L. W. Taylor (55) and two companions were climbing without rope on Mt. St. Helens. Taylor slipped and slid about 200 feet, and then fell 50 feet into a crevasse, where he was kil...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, PROTECTION FAILURENorth Carolina, Looking Glass Rock, Second ComingOn May 5, Ben Williams (21) and his partner were attempting Second Coming (5.7), a popular route on the south side of Looking Glass Rock. He was wearing a hel...
Rakaposhi, First Iranian Ascent. With only a few previous expeditions from Iran, and as our first experience to the Himalayan mountains, we chose Rakaposhi (7788m), a mountain of moderate height and difficulty. After three days’ march we started c...
Bivouac Hut, Mount Eisenhower. As a Centennial project, the Calgary Mountain Club helilifted a prefabricated bivouac hut on to the “goat plateau” of Mount Eisenhower (Castle Mountain). It was flown up on the evening of July 1 and almost completed ...
Snow Canyon. Many new routes have been established in this state park just northwest of St. George. 1986 saw several first free ascents of note. Todd Gordon eliminated the aid from the second pitch of Pygmy Alien, thus freeing the route at 5.9. Ch...
Domeland, Packing into the center of Domeland on April 16, Chuck Haas and I still found time to climb a truly classic six-pitch crack system in the center of the east face of Radiant Dome (F6 and F7). If the dome were near a road, like Tahquitz Ro...
Triglav, Yugoslavia. (This climb has been included because it is in a region not frequently visited by American climbers.—Editor.) Triglav, in the Julian Alps, is in the northwestern corner of Yugoslavia and is its highest peak (9393 feet). It is ...
Northern Cascades, Washington: (3) Mount Index. During the first week of October 1947, there occurred a tragic accident which has not yet been fully explained. Two young men named Franklin and Westphal, each 17 years of age and with a minimum of c...
Huascarán, West Ridge. Although our party made the first ascent of the west ridge of Huascarán, we can not claim that this was the climax to a long-maturing plan. When seven of us, ranging in age from 35 to 49, left Vancouver on June 1, we simply ...
DEHYDRATION, CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING, FAILURE TO COMMUNICATEAlaska, Mount McKinleyFred Wilson, 22, was a member of the three-man “FAB-1” expedition which flew to the basecamp on May 26, 1985, to climb the West Buttress. On June 6, Wilson and his...
Rakaposhi, Second Ascent by New Route, Northwest and Southwest Ridges. The first ascent of Rakaposhi (25,550 feet) was made in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey. Since then all other attempts had ended in failure. The Polish-Pakistani expedition 19...
Eiger. The N. wall of the Eiger was finally ascended this past summer by an Austrian party composed of H. Harrer and F. Kas- parek, and a German party composed of L. Vörg and A. Heck- maier, the two parties combining their forces and making the cl...
Bon Echo Provincial Park, Ontario. On 8 July Brian Cook and Nicholas Pawley began climbing shortly after 6 p.m. on a grade four route up the cliff along Lake Mazinaw. Cook had led grade six climbs here and Pawley grade five. They planned to altern...
HOLD PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mount Sir DonaldOn July 30, 1987, following a successful climb, a guide (30+) and his client moved camp for the ascent of the Northwest Arête the following day. A...
Everest West Ridge and Traverse. The Bulgarian Everest Expedition was organized to honor the 40th anniversary of the Bulgarian socialist revolution and the 80th anniversary of the foundation of the Bulgarian Revolutionary Trade Unions. It consiste...
Selkirk Range: Trout Lake Group. The Trout Lake Group in the sourthern Selkirks was visited in 1948 by R. Clapp, L. M. Erskine, Jr., and A. Griscom. Erskine and Griscom ascended Fays Peak (9260 ft.), the highest point on Silvercup Mountain. On the...