Book Reviews AAJ
Mountaineering Maps of the World, Volume 1, Himalaya

Mountaineering Maps of the World, Volume 1, Himalaya, 1977, 329 pages. Price: 19,000 yen; Volume 2, Karakoram-Hindu Kush, 1978, 350 pages. Price 21,000 yen. Editor, Koji Echigo. Tokyo: Gakushu Kenkyu-sha. Publisher, Hiroshi Watanabe. Illustrated.T...


Club Activities AAJ
Princeton Mountaineering Club

Princeton Mountaineering Club. The Club finished in June 1950 a fairly active year—its first as a separate entity in the university. The renewal of the academic year in September found no decrease in interest. During the summer members had climbed...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Kohe Wakhan

Kohe Wakhan. The identity of this peak is in doubt. See the account immediately above. My information is not definitely accurate, coming from a badly written letter. They claim that Michel Guerin, Alain Rebreyend, P. Minelli, G. Many, Jean Plion, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest Attempts, 1989

Everest Attempts, 1989. South Koreans led by Park Young-Bae tried to make a winter ascent of the southwest face of Everest but only reached a high point of 7800 meters on January 10, 1989.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Rincón

Cerro Rincón, Fitz Roy Group. This unclimbed peak (49°16' S; 73° 10' W) lies some 10 miles from Fitz Roy at the western end of the granite intrusion which forms Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Pier Giorgio. The main summit (8136 feet) is of ice fortifie...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Freya, Southwest Buttress, Baffin Island, 1987

Freya, Southwest Buttress, Baffin Island, 1987. The first time I approached Windy Lake shelter in Auyuittuq National Park in the southeast comer of Baffin Island, it was late February. The temperature hovered around -25°F and wind was building. We...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Washington, Exfoliation Dome

STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Washington, Exfoliation DomeThis report came from Calvin Hebert (22) and Greg Belding (22).We started late in the morning on June 8, and as there is no trail, it took considerable time to approach the wall. We starte...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Shivling

Shivling. On June 5 Patxo Dávila, José Luis Fernández Bedia, José Carlos Tamayo and I reached the summit of Shivling (6543 meters, 21,467 feet) by its south buttress. We left Uttarkashi on May 24 with ten porters, a cook and a liaison officer. Thr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Bridgland, East Face

Mount Bridgland, East Face. A spell of dry, clear weather the third week of August provided the impetus for a trek up the valley of the Miette to seek a new route on the towering form of Mount Bridgland. By noon the next day, McCarty, Brian Leo, a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Artesonraju, Southwest Face

Artesonraju, Southwest Face. On June 8, Andrej Gaspari and Štefan Mlinaric climbed a new fall-line route on the southwest face of Artesonraju directly to the summit, which they have named in memory of Marija Frantar. They descended the Austrian ro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Manantiales (5,100m), South Face, Direct a la Cubetera South America, Argentina, Central Andes

In Mendoza’s Tunuyán region, Diego Molina and Fernando Martinez made an interesting exploration on the south west face of Cerro Nevado Manantiales during (austral) spring. From Tunuyán they went to Refugio Portinari and continued past Refugio Sc...

| Published 2011 | Author Marcelo Scanu, Argentina


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall or Slip on Rock, Miscommunication, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Wind Tower

FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, MISCOMMUNICATIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Wind TowerOn May 4, Lon Abbott (45) and Avery McGill (25) were climbing Recon (5.6) on the Wind Tower. Both men were experienced climbers and wearing helmets. They had bee...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Hushe Karakoram Expedition

Hushe Karakoram Expedition. We spent two months in the Central Karakoram, exploring, climbing and geologising around the Masherbrum, Gondogoro, Chogolisa, Charakusa and Aling glacier systems, approaching from the Hushe valley. A late winter left s...


Book Reviews AAJ
On Ice and Snow and Rock

On Ice and Snow and Rock, by Gaston Rébuffat. New York: Oxford Press, 1971, 192 pages, $15.00What happens when a how-to book on mountaineering is combined with a coffee-table picture book? The result is the most striking single volume on technical...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Patterson Bluffs, "The Sun Also Rises"

Patterson Bluffs, “The Sun Also Rises. " In September, Scott Cosgrove, Jim Zellers and I completed a free ascent of the Sunset Buttress Route, originally rated IV, 5.10, A2 (AAJ, 1986, page 156) on Patterson Bluffs above Balch Camp. The route had ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Slack in Belay Line, Arizona, Pinnacle Peak, East Wall, Lizard Lip

FALL ON ROCK, SLACK IN BELAY LINEArizona, Pinnacle Peak, East Wall, Lizard LipOn September 23, 1991, two climbers were on Pinnacle Peak’s east wall. The lead was a 5.8 climb. The leader was about seven feet past a .5 tri cam, when he slipped. Slac...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Our expedition was made up of leader Dr. Eckart Gundelach, Karl Rössle, Thomas Mügge, Helmut Seitzl, Hubert Weinzierle, Gerhard Baur and me. We made our approach to Base Camp at 4200 meters from June 23 to 26. A reconnai...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, High Sierra, Big Adventure

High Sierra, Big Adventure. On August 5, Josh Schmidt (16), Jared Kraus (16), and Daniel Winetsky (15) embarked on an 18-day adventure in the High Sierra. Beginning at the Balls in Southern Yosemite, the three brushed up on the fundamentals of mul...


In Memoriam AAJ
Samuel Prescott Fay, 1884–1971

SAMUEL PRESCOTT FAY 1884–1971“Pete” Fay as he was known to his friends had been a member of the Club for 59 years at the time of his death last August. His qualifications for election in 1912 were four seasons in the Canadian Rockies beginning in ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Thalay Sagar Attempt

Thalay Sagar Attempt. An Italian expedition led by Carlo Buzzi failed to climb this mountain during August.