Bublimotin Attempt. Our team consisted of "Ladyfmger" (Bublimotin) veteran Dave Towse (Brit), seasoned alpinists Gavin Jordan (Brit), James Darnell (Southern boy), and me. After a long, dangerous, and somewhat unsuccessful approach, James and Gav ...
Spokane Mountaineers. The club’s most important undertaking was the first ascent of Mount Cooper (10,135 feet) in Idaho and is reported in more detail by W. S. Boulton elsewhere in this Journal. Official club climbs in the Cascades included Stuart...
Upernivik Island. West Greenland. The expedition sponsored by the Milan section of the Club Alpino Italiano visited Upernivik in Umanak Bay, 72° N. Lat. The eight members were G. Della Torre, leader, T. Albani, A. Di Benedetto, G. Farassino, A. Vi...
Wishmaker, first free ascent. In September Topher Donahue and I masde the first free ascent onsight of Wishmaker (IV 5.11+R [5.10X]), a route just to the right of Lost Cities, in the Hairdo Gully on the north side of the canyon. Pike Howard made t...
Hemsedal and Laerdal Valleys, Various Ascents. On March 13, Mark Wilford and I flew to Oslo for an ice climbing adventure. We climbed approximately 4,000 feet of ice over a seven- day period. Our first major climb was in the Hemsedal Valley. The H...
Mount Gerdine. Two previous ascents of Gerdine were made from the east, by Paul Crews, Sr. and Jr., Rod Wilson, George Wichman and Lowell Thomas, Jr. in 1963 and by Japanese in 1967. On April 19 Lowell Thomas, Jr. landed Mike Frank, Jim Sprott, To...
Wyoming, Devil’s Tower. On 6 September John Peterson (52), Dr. Roland Fleck, David Johnston, and David Peterson were climbing Devil’s Tower. Peterson was standing on top of ”Leaning Tower” column belaying Dr. Fleck some 60 feet above through a fix...
San Rafael Swell, various routes. On January 30 Lance Bateman and I climbed a new route on the Eastern Reef of the San Rafael Swell. Dreamy Clouds (7 pitches, III 5.11d R A0) climbs the center of the “Great White Wall,” left of Three Finger Canyon...
Cordillera de Huancavelica. The Oxford University Exploration Club sent a scientific party into the mountainous region between Huancayo and Huancavelica during the months of July and August. The leader, J. K. Marshall, and J. R. Lloyd studied the ...
P 9875, University Range. Bob Jacobs first saw P 9875 in 1975 during an exploratory hike up the Chitistone River. The view of this peak up Toby Creek is breathtaking. The 4500-foot north face is Eiger-like in appearance but rises to a sharp, corni...
North Chasm View Wall, Air Guitar. In May Jared Ogden and I redpointed Air Guitar (V 5.12+), a 17-pitch line on good rock up the middle of North Chasm View Wall. For several years we poked around before sorting out the line that begins right of th...
Tilicho, Second Ascent. In the autumn of 1965 three of us explored an unnamed 23,405-foot peak in the Annapurna Himal, which was later called Tilicho or more accurately Tilitso Himal (tilli=remote; tso=lake in the Thakali language) after Tilitso (...
Idaho Alpine Club. This was the fourth year of the Idaho Alpine Club’s existence. Membership increased slightly to a total of 59, and we became incorporated. The climbing committee sponsored a series of lectures on mountaincraft at the monthly mee...
Hanuman and Rishi Kot, North Face. Our expedition was composed of Mario Blasevich, Canadian, Rafael Fernández, Dr. Juan Bejarano and me as leader, Spaniards. We were in Garhwal from July 29 to August 29. We had hoped to climb the south face of Dun...
La Cordillera Di Huayhuash by Annibale Bonicelli. Bologna: Club Alpino Italiano di Bergamo, 1968. 94 pages, 54 photos, 9 sketch-maps.In 1964, an Italian expedition led by Signor Bonicelli visited the Huayhuash range in Central Peru and made a numb...
Big Snow Mountain, East Buttress. Big Snow Mountain (6680 feet) lies north of the Snoqualmie Pass group. The east buttress is characterized by a prominent dihedral and overhangs along its crest. On May 11 Jeff Dial and I traversed the left side of...
Cerro Doña Inés, Pre-Columbian Ascents. Although it had been ascended several times in the last few decades, no traces of pre-Columbian ascents had been reported for this well known peak, located some 30 miles north-northwest of the mineral area o...
Appalachian Mountain Club. This year saw the revival of the mountaineering training camps. A group of 10 people led by G. S. Janes spent two weeks in the northern Cascades. Emphasis was placed on backpacking and route finding in mountain terrain. ...
Mt. Kenya, both summits, and Kilimanjaro were also climbed by Miss Cameron and her guides.
Quitaraju. Our expedition climbed the direct north face of Quitaraju (c. 19,850 feet). On July 19 four of the six of us reached the summit: Jean and Claudine Lescure, Alain Sauge and I.Philippe Bernadin, Club Alpin Français