El Capitan, Passage to Freedom. I wanted to find a way to free climb the Dawn Wall and decided to attempt a line built around the aid climb, New Dawn. Andrew McAllum fixed ropes to the fourth belay. I spent several days on these pitches, closely i...
FALL ON ROCK, HELMET NOT SECURED PROPERLY Colorado, Boulder, First Flat IronIt was June 8. We had been working hard the last few months, warming up for our annual trip to Chamonix. We had decided to have an easy day on the First Flatiron. The easi...
French Youth Expedition to Ak-Su, Pamir Alai, Tadzikistan, and the Piolet d’Or. A group of young French climbers was selected by the Groupe de Haute Montagne. Under the leadership of Luc Jourjon, François Pallandre and Rémy Karle, they were Raphaë...
Mount Hunter, North Buttress Attempt and North Face. Todd Bibler, Doug Klewin and I attempted the north buttress of Mount Hunter in June. After flying in, we started early on June 12 and followed the prominent gully on the left side of the buttres...
Mount Hunter, Northwest Spur Variant. On April 12 Gary Bocarde, Nick Parker and I started on a new variant on the west ridge of Mount Hunter. After skiing around from the southeast fork of the Kahiltna into the basin north of the west ridge, we se...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Moraine Lake, 3-3½ CouloirRonald and David Schuela, brothers in their twenties, were climbing the 3-3½ Couloir to the Graham Cooper Hut on 1 August 1979 without crampons. They took about ...
Qong Mustagh massif, circumnavigation, reconnaissance. Our five-man team of Vasilyi Ivanov, Edmundas Jonikas, Alexander Moiseev, Tadeush Schepanyuk, and I arrived in the village of Polu on September 9. Polu is situated on the Kourab-darja River, a...
Annapurna I, First Ski Descent. On April 29, 17 days after leaving Base Camp, Andrej and Davorin Karnicar left Camp IV on Annapurna. Before sunrise they reached the last rock 200 meters below the summit. On the far right side they found a narrow c...
Cuerno Este, Tropicana. On February 28, Nacho Erez and I made the second ascent of Tropicana on Cuerno Este. It was raining, but on this wall you can climb with bad weather.Hernan Jofre, Amerindia, Chile
Mount Louis, West Face. This face is the shortest, but it had apparently not been climbed before because of its loose nature and a forbidding lower wall of friable rock. John and Illa Rupley made the climb with me on July 31 after I had climbed th...
Mount Barnard, Glacier Bay. The first ascent of Mount Barnard (8214 feet), US-Canada Boundary Peak No. 160, was made on August 24 from the head of Tarr Inlet by D. Kenyon King, Peter H. Robinson and myself. Our route followed a glacier south of th...
FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION FAILURE-ICE AX TOOLAlberta, Banff National Park, Wicked WandaF.B. (32) was leading the crux pitch of this water ice Grade 4+ route on February 2. He was about three meters above an ice mushroom around which he had tied a sl...
Torssuqatoq Spires, Various Ascents. It was reported that Andy and Pete Benson, Kenton Cool and A1 Powell (U.K.) visited the Torssuqatoq Spires, a short distance southeast of Tasermiut Fjord, making some 18 new routes up to 800 meters in length. T...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. During the past year the club again sponsored monthly outings at Devils Lake, Wisconsin, and Mississippi Palisades, Illinois. Club membership is larger than ever with attendance at outings running very high. The large ...
Rishikot. Our expedition was composed of Dr. John Coxon, Dave Harper, Mark Pezarro, Tim Hurrell and me as leader, plus Tim Reed and Jenny Williams doing scientific work. We attempted two routes on Rishikot, first up the southeast face directly tow...
Mount Moran, East South Buttress. From a bivouac below the south buttress of Mount Moran, on July 25, Herb Swedlund and I prusiked up the fixed line I had left off the end of the second terrace. We then scrambled about halfway along the terrace to...
Pumasillo, West Ridge. A Japanese five-man-and-a-woman expedition established Base Camp on June 9 at 13,950 feet west of Pumasillo. They found it difficult to find a route to the west ridge but on June 25 they placed Camp III on it. On July 2 Hiro...
Mount Eisenhower, South Face. The eastern corner of the broad south face of Mount Eisenhower, adjacent to the Tower, had been climbed previously; a more direct south face route obviously lay up the central buttress. Steve Marts and I ascended this...
Aguja Guillaumet. In checking ascents on the Aguja Guillaumet, we find several ascents which have not been mentioned in the A.A.J. Two routes near the Italian one were made by French climbers in 1968 which were reported in the Annales du Groupe de...
Around to the right from the Orion’s Reflection wall is more good rock, though the wall is not as high. There, Jason Keith and Alan Hunt established the Flight of the Golden Camalot (IV 5.11). The route begins with a ramp, followed by a step left....