Mount Robson, First Attempted Solo Ascent of North Face, Second Solo Ascent of Kain Face. On August 8 I climbed from Berg Lake via the rock between the Mist and Tumbling Glaciers to a tent placed previously with the help of friends underneath the ...
Arizona, Superstition Mountains, Flat Iron. On 13 February Larry Treiber (23), William Betcher, and Bruce Grubbs with a full complement of gear for a 6 Class ascent and gear for a one night bivouac attempted to climb the so-called Nose which had b...
FALL ON SNOW, AVALANCHE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlaska, Bold PeakOn June 3, 1990, two experienced Alaskan mountaineers set out to climb Bold Peak (2286 meters) located in the Eklutna Lake area of the Chugach Mountains. They planned the ascent to take...
Everest Attempt. Josema Casimiro and I shared the route on the north side of Everest with a large Swedish expedition. We followed the classic route on the East Rongbuk Glacier and on May 20 climbed to the North Col some 300 meters to the left of t...
Masherbrum. We marched 112 miles from Skardu, along the Shyok, up the Hushe valley, and then, on June 15, 1957, to Base Camp on Masherbrum Glacier at the foot of Sérac Glacier. During fine weather we established Camp I (15,500 feet) at the top of ...
Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. Our expedition, composed of Martin Doyle, Lindsay Griffin, Dave Harries, Mike Woolridge, Katherine Slevin and me as leader, attempted the very difficult, unclimbed east buttress of Annapurna Dakshin (7919 meters, 23,683 ...
Nudo Millpo, 1974. On our expedition from Italy, I was accompanied by my wife Maria, Giuseppe Cazzaniga, Italo Valmaggia, Giancarlo Del Zotto and Celso Salvetti. From July 28 to August 22, 1974 we were in the mountains, which lie just south of the...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Akira Kiuchi reached 6200 meters. Two members suffered from sickness and rockfall threatened.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club
P 19,958, Lower Baltoro Glacier. An expedition of the Groupe de Haute Montagne attempted to climb the granite tooth which lies between the Uli Biaho and Trango glaciers and between Payu Peak and and Trango Towers. It is given as 6083 meters (19,95...
It was reported that Gene Kisler and Todd Offenbacher climbed a new route on the previously unexplored Pigeon Feathers. They gave the ten-pitch route a grade of V 5.10 A3, but said that now that the route has been cleaned it would most likely go...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDOregon, Mount HoodOn February 29, Ralph Leach (40), Tom Morgan (53), and Lee Hepfer (49) successfully ascended the South Side (Hogsback) route on Mount Hood. At 1130 while descending the same route, Hepfer jumped the b...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Crowder’s Mountain State Park, OpinionatedOn November 23, a male climber (23) fell while climbing Opinionated (5.9+) on the Red Wall at Crowder’s Mountain State Park. According to reports, the climber was a...
Omission from the Pamirs Article, A.A.J., 1975. On pages 77 and 78 we unfortunately omitted the name of Marty Hoey. She did reach the summit of Pik Lenin with Evans, Lev, Stanley and Carson and waited with Lev for Williamson when he made his summi...
Sierra Club. Keeping pace with the Sierra Club’s conservation efforts, members were also very active in the mountaineering field. As usual Yose- mite Valley provided much of the challenge and new ascents. Most noteworthy of the new climbs that wer...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, White Whale IIOn May 23, 1994, Jack L. McConnell (59) and his son Thomas H. McConnell (24) were climbing the White Whale Route II, 5.7, on the Left B...
ROBERT DUSCHINSKY 1900-1991Robert Duschinsky was bom in Vienna on October 25, 1900. He studied chemistry at the University of Vienna.He became a devoted mountain climber while still a student. He climbed the mountains in the surroundings of Vienna...
Rocky Mountains of CanadaNotes on the Early Exploration of the Canadian Rockies. Various discrepancies between Coues’ New Light on the Early History of the Greater Northwest (Henry-Thompson Journals) and Tyrrell’s Thompson’s Narrative of His Explo...
Mount Logan, Warbler Ridge or East-Southeast Buttress of East Peak. Our expedition was made up of the Canadians Jay Page, Frank Baumann, Fred Thiessen and me and the Swiss René Bucher. We called our route “Warbler Ridge” because of several visits ...
El Capitan, Passage to Freedom. I wanted to find a way to free climb the Dawn Wall and decided to attempt a line built around the aid climb, New Dawn. Andrew McAllum fixed ropes to the fourth belay. I spent several days on these pitches, closely i...
FALL ON ROCK, HELMET NOT SECURED PROPERLY Colorado, Boulder, First Flat IronIt was June 8. We had been working hard the last few months, warming up for our annual trip to Chamonix. We had decided to have an easy day on the First Flatiron. The easi...