A hotel for skiers, Jim Creek Lodge, has been opened at West Portal, Colorado, on the western slope of the Continental Divide. It is reached in two and one-half hours from Denver by the Moffat Tunnel. The hotel, elevation 9,000 ft., stands at the ...
JOHN R. HUDSON 1946-1969I first got to know Hudson driving across the country in June, 1966. He had hitchhiked to my place with his entire gear in his Kelty, and we went West as fast as we could in a doubtful auto – we had to get to Yosemite befor...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE BELAY Washington, Mount Baker, North RidgeElain Fu (33) and I (Stephen Ramsey, 33) were simul-climbing up the ice cliff on the North Ridge of Mount Baker. I was in the lead. At 6:30 a.m., I reached a ...
GUNNAR NASLUND 1950-1982 On August 4, 1982, Gunnar Naslund, a four-year member of the American Alpine Club, lost his life when he was struck by a collapsing cornice as he led a rope attempting the first ascent of Needle Mountain in Alaska’s remo...
Red Sea Mountains, an historical overview and recent first ascents. Following the discovery of an old book by G.W. Murray entitled Dare Me To The Desert (1967), in which the author describes his explorations of Egypt’s Red Sea Mountains in the 192...
Nameless Tower, Trango Towers. Our expedition was composed of East German Berndt Arnold and West Germans Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Wolfgang Kraus, Thomas Lipinski, Martin Leinauer, Dr. Jörg Schneider, Martin Schwiersch, Jörg Wilz and me as le...
Return to the AlpsUrsula CorningTHERE had been one summer after another of stifling New York heat—hands sticking to the table, body sticking to the chair—but there had been Alpine calendars on the desk to remind me of better things. Suddenly seven...
Climbs near Pumasillo, Cordillera Vilcabamba. With the arrival at Cuzco of Peter Radcliffe from Patagonia, our party was complete. John Gates and I had flown from New Zealand to meet Dave Bamford and Tom Clarkson following their different successf...
On January 3 James Mehigan, Olly Metherell, and Andrew Stokes-Rees made the first ascent of Fountain Gully on Afella in the Ouanoukrim chain. After a frantic evening of food shopping in Marrakesh, Mehigan and Metherell had their first scary moment...
INEXPERIENCE, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCKWashington, Icicle CreekOn April 29, 1989, I was assigned to lead three students, Tom Del Carlo (30), Bob Dalby, and Ken Wells, up a multipitch route known as “B & D” on the east side of Wadell’...
Gangchenpo, Jugal Himal. An all-Nepalese expedition from the Nepal Police Force led by Narayan Chand Thakuri made the first ascent of Gangchenpo (6387 meters, 20,955 feet). They climbed the southwest ridge of this handsome smaller peak, which lies...
Cerro Gallan, Province of Salta. Although our Austro-Swedish Andean Expedition did some excavations in the ruins of the Indian town of Guan- chin and of the fortress of Batungasta near Fiambalá, it was not there, near the Ojos del Salado, but 225 ...
Rambles and Mountain Climbs in Various Parts of the WorldWalter D. WilcoxTHE writer has been asked to compose an article on his various mountain climbs and adventures, omitting any reference to the Canadian Rockies, his favorite and most cherished...
Panchchuli II, Kumaon Himalaya. Beautiful, needle-shaped Panchchuli II is the highest of five peaks, traditionally known as the “five ovens” used by the five Pandava brothers during their journey to the Ultimate at the end of the Mahabharat. It ha...
FALL OR SLIP ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Snoqualmie MountainOn April 14, 1991, a party of six Seattle Mountaineers assembled at 0720 near the Commonwealth Basin trailhead for an “Alpine Scramble” ascent of Snoqualmie Mountain. It was rain...
Celestial PeakEdward E. Vaillwhen ALLEN STECK AND I first saw Celestial Peak in October 1981, we vowed to return to China to climb it. We were accompanying one of the first groups of foreigners ever to visit the Siguniang mountain region of the Ti...
Shiwakte II. The Shiwakte mountains, which lie east of Kongur in Xinjiang, were first described by C.P. Skrine in The Geographical Journal in 1925. His photographs and the reports of the British Kongur expeditions of 1980-81 indicated that the mou...
The Grand Teton, Hossack-MacGowen Couloir, First One-Day Winter Ascent and First Ski Descent. On February 16, Hans Johnstone and I started from the Cottonwood Canyon parking lot hoping to climb the Hossack-MacGowen Couloir to the summit of the Gra...
AVALANCHE—Wyoming, Grand Tetons. At 1100 on Saturday, 12 January 1974, a 15-member National Outdoor Leadership School Teton Winter Mountaineering Expedition checked out with Ranger Pete Hart for a two-week stay, with a tentative base camp to be pl...
The Ulugh MuztaghRobert H. BatesFOR ME THE LONG quest began in 1966 on the slopes of Mount Russell in the Alaska Range, where I shared a two-man tent with Eric Shipton. Adams Carter had invited me to join him on an expedition and now we were shelt...