ALFRED D. LINDLEY1904-1951Death came to Alfred D. Lindley and two friends in the crash of a private plane in Nebraska on 22 February 1951. They were en route to Aspen, Colorado, for a two weeks’ skiing holiday. The plane was owned and piloted by h...
Beluga Mountain and, Rock Tower, Sam Ford Fiord, Baffin Island, 1987. Christian Dalphin, Bernard Wietlisbach, Xaver Bongard and I flew from Montreal to Clyde River at 71°N. On June 18, 1987 at 10:30 P.M., we set out with Eskimos towing kamatiks (s...
Kiguti, Norwegian Route; Fin massif, Gud Har Ikkje Gløymt Oss, Han Gir Bare Faen. In early April, Ole Lied, Sigurd Felde, Audun Hetland, and I left Norway for Sam Ford Fjord. We had seen pictures of the great wall of Kiguti from the Norwegian 2000...
RAPPEL FAILURE-TRYING TO PASS KNOT, CLIMBING ALONEArizona, Phoenix, Waterfall Area, White Tank Regional ParkOn October 4, Maricopa County Sheriff’s Office Mountain Rescue was notified via SAR Coordinator, Deputy Tony Navarra, that a climber had ap...
The Crestones, Colorado. Mountaineering is the delicate operation of pursuing the appearance of danger while avoiding its reality. In my bailiwick of Colorado, there is no place where it can be practised with greater security than on the Crestones...
Rignys Bjerg area, various first ascents. A group consisting of Norman Vernon (co-leader), Robert MacCallum, Dave Rothery, Graham Poole, Sandy Gregson, and myself (co-leader) flew on 30 June from Isafjördur, Iceland to Constable Pynt, Northeast Gr...
Baffin Island. In late June final preparations for our trip were made at the home of Dr. Pat Baird in Montreal, Canada. By early July we had flown to the Eskimo village of Pangnirtung on the Cumberland Peninsula of Baffin Island. Pack ice, left by...
Inspired by pictures from an expedition in 2007 led by Dick Griffiths and reported in AAJ 2008, four of us from the Netherlands, supported by the Dutch Alpine Club, visited Southeast Ren Land from August 8-30, operating from a base camp at the hea...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. Founded in 1964 in Phoenix, the Arizona Mountaineering Club enjoyed another successful year in 1995. Membership approached 340. Many members climbed and trekked in various parts of the world. Several joined a high alti...
FROSTBITE—INADEQUATE CLOTHINGAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 2nd, guided expedition AMS-5-Wilkinson departed the 17,200- foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley for the summit at 0600. This group of six, including two guides,...
EDWARD A. LANE 1935-1969The Logan Expedition was a dream come true for Ed Lane. It meant the completion of three peaks, the most difficult, high and largest mountain massif in North America. His Logan Traverse would have covered the entire Logan M...
Agdlerussakasit east face, Maujit Qoqarsassia (1,560 m) first ascent and new route. The members of our expedition were Jesus Bosque (cameraman), Cecilia Buil (Spain), Gorka Ferro (kayaker), and Roberta Nunez (Brazil). From Nanortalik we paddled in...
The Vilcabamba and SalcantayIan Harverson‡, Australian Andean Expedition, 1973, and MichaelG. Andrews, New Zealand Apline ClubThe Pumasillo GroupTHE Australian Andean Expedition 1973 entered the Pumasillo basin on June 1 via Cuzco and Santa Teresa...
McKinley West Buttress Variant. On June 11, Bruce Normand and I climbed a new variant on the right side of the southwest face of the Direct West Buttress. It involved twenty belayed pitches of water ice of Alpine Grade III. We completed the climb ...
In the second half of May, a Tangent expedition led by Ian Barker and Mark Basey-Fisher (U.K.), with Warren Allen, Julian Cooper, Mark Morrison, Sebastian Sloane (all U.K.), Andrey Pogudin (Russia), and I made the first ascent of a peak in the Gun...
Cook & Peary: The Polar Controversy Resolved. Robert M. Bryce. Stackpole: Mechanicsburg, PA 1997. 1133 pages. $50.The literature of polar exploration, unlike that of climbing, is known for its historical tomes. Yet Robert M. Bryce’s Cook &...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, FAILURE TO TEST CONDITIONS, RELYING ON OTHERSAlaska, Delta Range, Castner GlacierIn the early afternoon on March 1, a group of 17 people (15 class members, co-leader Ty Humphrey, and I) arrived on skis and snowshoes in an...
Annapurna III Attempt. Four Koreans led by Ko Kwang-Soo tried to climb the southwest face of Annapurna III. Kyoung Joo-Choi and Byung Hyun-So reached 6650 meters on October 28. The climb was then abandoned because someone had stolen much of their ...
Mount Hale Pinnacles and Mount Hale, East Face. On the ridge of Mount Hale that extends toward Mount Whitney, before ending above Arctic Lake, there are two very prominent towers separated by a gap of 100 feet. I climbed them in June with a belay ...
DAVID JONATHAN BERNAYS1932-1980David J. Bernays was born in 1932 in New York City and died suddenly of a heart attack on July 6, 1980. Dave, who as a young man got his beginning as a mountaineer on the hills and rock faces of the Adirondacks in th...