Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Greenland, Lemon Mountains, Various Ascents

Lemon Mountains, various ascents. During July and August an eight-person British Alpine Club-Alpine Climbing Group team led by Roy Ruddle visited East Greenland. Primary objectives were important new routes in the South Lemons and major first asce...


In Memoriam AAJ
Henry Sturgis Grew, 1874-1953

HENRY STURGIS GREW1874-1953Harry Grew, as he was known to his friends, had been a member of the Club since 1935. Almost his only climbs were made in three years during his late fifties, a fact of which he was rather proud, as few men begin climbin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Nunavut, Canadian Arctic, Tirokwa, Bilbo, Asgard, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island

Tirokwa, Bilbo, Asgard, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. From June 20 to July 29, Nicholas D. Wood, Jonathan Ison, Ian Marriot, Sean Walsh and I took part in the Leeds Baffin Island Expedition. We centered around Summit Lake. To reach there...


Accident Reports ANAM
British Columbia, Garibaldi Park, Wedge Mountain

British Columbia, Garibaldi Park, Wedge Mountain. On 28 December Nona Rowat (28), and three companions completed a ski-mountain tour in Garibaldi Park. They had been near 9,400 foot Wedge Mountain where they had experienced severe cold. The night ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Climbing Alone, Inadequate Equipment, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabaska / Andromeda Col

FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabaska/Andromeda ColOn July 31, 1988, Mike (25), a climber of moderate experience, set out to climb Mount Athabaska via the Athabaska/Andromeda Col. He was by himself, s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Central, Nevado Llongote, Lima-Limon

Nevado Llongote, Lima-Limon. The day after setting up base camp by Laguna Llongote in the Zona Yauyos, Guillermo Meija and I checked the approach to our intended route, an ice line directly up the south face to the summit of Llongote (5,781m), and...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Traverse between Bivouac and Raynold's Peaks

Edited by H. Adams CarterUNITED STATESTetons, Wyoming. In the past summer several new routes were made in the Tetons. A few of the more important climbs follow.Traverse between Bivouac and Raynold’s Peaks. Lying between Moran and Snowshoe Canyons ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Coastal Mountains, Southeastern Alaska

Coastal Mountains, Southeastern Alaska. By eleven o’clock on July 13, Rich Mathies, Jerry Barnard, Jim McCarthy and I were on the beach at the snout of the Baird Glacier, where it almost meets Thomas Bay, not far from Petersburg. Our approach up t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Aleutian Islands

Aleutian Islands. An expedition of the Nagano Prefecture Alpine Association of Japan to the Aleutian Islands was led by Ichiro Yoshizawa, a different person from the one of that name who has been a member of the American Alpine Club. From July 14 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K2 Attempt

K2 Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Haruyuki Endo of the High Altitude Research Institute reached 7400 meters on the Abruzzi Ridge, but after the leader had difficulties apparently from the altitude at 5800 meters, the expedition was called off.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nuptse, Joint Attempt by the Left Buttress of the Central Part of the South Face

Nuptse, Joint Attempt by the Left Buttress of the Central Part of the South Face. Our expedition was composed of Italians Kurt Walde, Alberto Guelpa and me. On April 14, we placed Base Camp on the Lhotse Nup Glacier. The next day, four Canadians s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Peaks in Pangnirtung Pass Area

Peaks in Pangnirtung Pass Area. The Northumbria Baffin Island Expedition was composed of climbers from the northeast of England: Dave McDonald, Ken Rawlinson, Len Wilson, Dennis Lee, Steve Blake, Kevin McLane, George Simms and me. We arrived in Pa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Russia, Muisky Range, Pik Casteldefels, Salo; Pik 2,600m, Corredor Cor

Muisky Range, Pik Casteldefels, Salo; Pik 2,600m, Corredor Cor. Curro Gonzales, Vicente Holgado, and I, forming the second X-PLORE expedition, left Madrid on February 21 and flew to Chita in the Republic of Buryatia (Buryatskaya). Our goal was the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dorje Lhakpa Winter Ascent

Dorje Lhakpa Winter Ascent. A South Korean expedition succeeded in making the seventh ascent of Dorje Lhakpa (6966 meters, 22,854 feet) and did it in the winter. They climbed the west ridge. On December 16, leader Song Ki-Bo, Jung Woo-Chang and An...


Accident Reports ANAM
Inadequate Equipment for Nocturnal Diuresis, Weather, Washington, North Cascades

INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT FOR NOCTURNAL DIURESIS, WEATHER Washington, North CascadesOn August 19, 1988, four veteran mountaineers set out to ascend the West Ridge of Eldorado Peak in the North Cascades of Washington. The group was surprised by high win...


Book Reviews AAJ
La Cordillera Real de los Andes, Bolivia

La Cordillera Real de los Andes, Bolivia. Alain Messili. Los Amigos del Libro, Cochabamba, Bolivia, 1984. 222 pages, 9 color and 80 black-and-white photographs, 14 sketch maps, bibliography. $20.00.


Book Reviews AAJ
East of Katmandu

East of Katmandu, by Thomas Weir. 138 pages, 91 illustrations. Oliver and Boyd: Edinburgh and London, 1955. Price, 16 s.Small Himalayan Expeditions are becoming more and more feasible. Thomas Weir and his Scottish companions have played a great pa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile and Argentina—Patagonia, An Early Report on Patagonian Climbing in the Southern Summer of 1977-5

An Early Report on Patagonian Climbing in the Southern Summer of 1974-5. The expedition to Cerro Moyano did not succeed despite exceptionally good weather for Patagonia. Jure Skvarca and Mario Serrano could not overcome the technical difficulties,...


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club. Seventy-six people attended the annual two-week outing, July 17-30, in the Needle Mountains of southwestern Colorado. Fourteen peaks were climbed including Eolus, Windom, and Sunlight, the area’s three 14,000-foot summits; ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascade Mountains, Prusik Peak, First Winter Ascent

Prusik Peak, First Winter Ascent. Dave Anderson, Cal Folsom, Tom Linder and I made the first winter ascent of this peak via the west ridge in January, 1975.James McCarthy