West Fuller Butte, South Face. This route and the next are easily visible from a logging road southwest of the two buttes. Easy Wind climbs a flake which lies flat against the face to the west of a prominent gully on West Fuller Butte. Fourth-clas...
Blue Ridge Section. In 2008 the Blue Ridge Section continued to hold a series of informal meetings at the Rhodeside Tavern in Rosslyn, Virginia. Two particularly notable talks were given by Sandy Fleming, a long-time AAC member, and by Daniel Ress...
The Sunny Top of California: Sierra Nevada Poems and a Story. Norman Schaefer. La Alameda Press, 2010. 120 pages. Paperback. $14.00.A poem is like a Chinese fortune cookie: surprise and insight, wrapped inside a small mystery.The joyous hardship o...
Jatunhuma, Pachanta and Other Peaks. (Editor’s note: With two exceptions (Pachanta and Caracol), the members of this expedition used the names found on the Peruvian IGM quad Ocongate, 1:100,000, Hoja 28-t. The names on these maps rarely conform wi...
Jushua Tower, Zen and the Art of Leadership. On May 14, Steph Davis, Brandon Kannier and I arrived in the small village of Clyde River. The next three days were spent traveling by snowmobile with Jushua (our Inuit guide) across the six-foot-thick ...
North Central Section. The North Central Section has about 165 members spread out over an area of roughly 600 miles x 600 miles. The membership has two pockets, one in Minneapolis/ St. Paul, Minnesota, and the other 400 miles away in Omaha, Nebras...
Johann Wolfgang “Hans” Gmoser 1932-2006It is beyond the capability of this aging wordsmith to come up with a simple summary of the eventful and productive life of a brilliant but complex man, who was also a good friend to so many and accomplished ...
On July 12 Wayne Wallace and I cruised the waters of Lake Chelan on the buxom yet buoyant Lady of the Lake, on our way to check out the unclimbed southeast face of Dome Peak’s southwest summit. I saw the 1,800' granite face on a reconnaissance fli...
Geoffrey Winthrop Young: Poet, Educator, Mountaineer. Alan Hankinson. Hodder & Stoughton, London, 1995. 354 pages, black-and- white photographs. (Distributed in the U.S. by Trafalgar Square, North Pomfret, Vermont 05053.) $40.00.If the life of...
Cordón de los Chorrillos and Nevado Plomo. We of the Spanish Alpine Club Expedition managed to reach all our objectives, making 14 first ascents and a new route on the Nevado Plomo. Twelve of the first ascents were in the Cordón de los Chorrillos....
Tuolumne Meadows, 1984. Footnote (5.10) is a bolted pitch climbed by Phil Bard just left of Table of Contents, leading to Hermaphrodite Flake. Great White Arête is 5.10 - and climbs the outside comer just right of the Great White Book, leading to ...
London Bridge, Miss Keli, and various activity. We (Iwan Wolf, Urs Stöcker, Markus Stofer, Bruno Hasler) took advantage of the first sunny day to fly into the Ruth Gorge with Talkeetna Air Taxi, on May 7. We set up our base camp at the base of Mt....
The First Traverse of Mt. McKinleyA First Ascent of the South ButtressMORTON S. WOODDuring the summer of 1953 EltonThayer, then a ranger at Mt. McKinley National Park, began plans for a new attempt on Mt. McKinley by the South Buttress1 route. Th...
Edward Whymper, by Frank S. Smythe. 8 vo., xiv + 330 pages,with illustrations, map and index. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1940. Price $6.00.There are new things in this book: the striking frontispiece portrait by Lance Calkin, and reproduction...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. Our Expedition from Schwäbisch Gmünd was composed of Josef Funk, Karl Wamsler, Alfred Eggensperger, Helmut Rösch, Bernd Neubaur, Hans Schmid and me as leader. We at- temped the southwest ridge (the Toni Kinshofer Route) and f...
La Nuit des Drus, by Charles Gos. 8 vo. New edition. Neuchatel: Attinger, 1934. Price Fr. 3.50.It would appear at first glance inconceivable that a volume could be written on the subject of one night’s bivouac close to the summit of a mountain pea...
Kichatna Spire, Voice of Unreason to summit ridge, and Whiteout Spire, Front Butt. After we festered for five days in the rain in downtown Talkeetna, the clouds parted, and Paul Roderick of TAT was finally able to fly Rob Owens, Roger Strong, and ...
ERIC E. SHIPTON1907-1977Eric Shipton, probably the world’s most distinguished explorer of mountain regions, died at Ansty Manor, near Salisbury, England, March 28, 1977. A gentle, kindly man, with a philosophical turn of mind, Eric had a lifelong ...
Broad Peak Attempt. We were at Base Camp on July 9 but were held up by five days of bad weather. Shortly after that Georges Bettembourg, Patrick Vallençant, Jean Louis Estienne and Denis Conte placed Camps I and II at 17,725 and 20,675 feet and he...
Poi, North Face, Dark Safari. In the early 1980s, Andrew Wielochowski (a Brit based in Kenya) did the first climbing on Poi. After several attempts, he got up a line on the right-hand side of the east face, climbing ground up over three and a half...