Mt. Chamberlain, I Fink Therefore I Am. Having long been fascinated with reports and photos of Mt. Chamberlain, deep behind the Sierra Crest, I finally made the trip in July. Ever ready for adventure, the energizer bunny himself, Jonny Copp of Bou...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PROTECTION PULLED OUTAlberta, Ghost River area, BonanzaOn September 6, a party of three were climbing Bonanza, a 5.8 gear route located in the Ghost River area. About midway up the route the leader, J.I. (34)...
EnsueñoThe northwest buttress of Fitz Royby Andrea SarchiTwelve years have elapsed since my first journey to Patagonia. The first time I arrived in that place, it rained, the mountains were wrapped in the dense mists of the south and everything se...
Some Climbs in the SelkirksGeorgia EngelhardAFTER two weeks of climbing in the Canadian Rockies, where the brittle limestone rock is always a menace, where one often toils arduously up long scree slopes until one reaches the actual climbing, and w...
The Bar-Headed GooseThomas H. JukesMILLIONS OF YEARS before George Leigh Mallory attempted to ascend Everest “because it was there,” a remarkable bird had found its way over Everest’s summit, thanks to winning a prize in evolution’s lottery. The b...
New York Section. The year 2007 was a particularly active and interesting one for the New York Section. We reached a record 750 members by year’s end, aided by a special outreach to younger members by the national AAC and by continuing to provide ...
Mt. Belanger, King's Couloir. Dave Marra and I were tossing back a few pints of Canada’s finest at the Downstream Pub in Jasper and soon were jabbering about picking off a new midsummer ice route. When Dana Ruddy, fresh from a jaunt up Mt. Fryatt,...
Nilkanta, Garhwal Himalaya, 1949WILLI UNSOELDEarly on the morning of July 4, 1948, two rucksack-laden hitchhikers stood hopefully beside U.S. 66 on the outskirts of Los Angeles. Their thumbs pointed east, their axes proclaimed their membership in ...
Razorblade Pinnacle, Mount Hood. On September 29, Cindy Long and I climbed the beautiful west arête of this hidden classic in the Sandy River Basin on Mount Hood. After a 2½-hour approach, we began up a grungy but easy first pitch that was followe...
The Yukon ExpeditionRobert H. BatesHave you broken trail on snowshoes? Mushed your huskies up the river?—Service.YUKON TERRITORY, Canada’s most westerly province, is bounded by the watershed of the Mackenzie River on the east, the bulk of continen...
Everest Attempt. In the post-monsoon 31 climbers attempted Everest from the Western Cwm. All but four climbers were on the permits of Austrian Hanns Schell and all used his route through the icefall and cwm. Murray Rice and I were a two-man expedi...
Annapurna, Northwest Face, and Dhaulagiri. Reinhold Messner, Prem Darshano, Hans Kammerlander, Reinhard Patschneider and Reinhard Schiestl established Base Camp below the northwest face of Annapurna at 4100 meters. Messner and Kammerlander reached...
McKinley climbed by Boy Scouts. Boy Scouts from Post 286 of the Western Alaska Scout Council in Anchorage undertook over a period of two years to prepare themselves for an ascent of McKinley, learning what skills would be needed. On June 5, scouts...
The First American Accident on the MatterhornJ. Monroe ThoringtonThe tragedy which overtook members of Edward Whymper’s party on the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 was the most dramatic event in 19th century mountaineering. By that time th...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. An expedition of the Indian Border Security Force was led by Deputy Commander Chhering Ram. Bogged down by bad weather, landslides, road blocks and deep snow, they got to Base Camp only on May 17. Their last camp, Camp V at 71...
AVALANCHE-DID NOT READ PUBLISHED AVALANCHE WARNING, WEATHER, POOR POSITION, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTINCTS (ONE CLIMBER), CARRIED BEACONS-BUT NOT TURNED ONOregon, North SisterWe departed the Pole Creek Trailhead, 5,200 feet, at 1:00 a.m. on May 22 wi...
Jirishanca Norte to summit slopes. It is early July, and my climbing partner Iñigo Mujica and I have just gotten off the south face of Chacraraju, after completing the Bouchard Route in 25 hours. On arrival at our base camp at Laguna Jahucocha we ...
British Crags and Climbers, edited by Edward C. Pyatt and Wilfrid Noyce. 235 pages, 16 illustrations. London: Dennis Dobson, 1952. Price, 21/—.A stated purpose of this anthology is “to illustrate the foundation, the development and the present sta...
Southeastern Alaska: Mt. Juneau.In September 1950 John Crawford, of Sunnyside, Washington, 22, a summer employee on a government fisheries vessel in Alaska, attempted to climb directly up the west face of Mt. Juneau from the nearby city. Apparentl...
The South Face of Mount McKinleyRiccardo CassinTranslated by Marco T. EinaudiEven the birth of our expedition was difficult and — sorrowful: the idea of our climb on Mount McKinley had been urged by the well known climber from Lecco, Carlo Mauri, ...