North Central Section. The North Central Section of the AAC continues to make progress toward having more communication, camaraderie, and interaction within the Club. Major projects for 2005 included further work developing a Section web site, cle...
STEVEN DONALD FREDERICK UNTCH1956-1994My friend Steve Untch was a big man with a big smile and a big heart. He cut a wide path wherever he went, infecting all whom he touched with his positive outlook on life. This unassuming man had the ability t...
Ama Dablam, East Ridge. Celebrating the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Club Alpin Belge, a joint Belgian-Swiss expedition climbed the previously unascended east ridge of Ama Dablam. Base Camp was at 17,225 feet. Camp I was on the glacier...
Eclipse Glacier, ascents. Glenn Wilks (U.K.) and Geoff Hornby (U.K.) flew into the Eclipse Glacier for 10 days and made ascents of peaks near Mt. Badham. On June 1 they made the first ascent of Peak 3,390m, via its southeast ridge, and climbed a n...
Sierra Club of California. Yosemite Valley was the scene of what was certainly the outstanding rock climb of 1958. On November 12 Warren Harding, George Whitmore, and Wayne Merry completed the longest tension climb of all time by scaling the verti...
On May 2, John Frieh and I climbed a new variation on the southeast face of Mt. Bradley, connecting the first third of Season of the Sun (Ichimura-Sato-Yamada, 2007) with the upper section of the East Buttress (Jochler-Orgler, 1987). The line depa...
Kangchungtse (Makalu II). A French expedition climbed the normal route, the west face to the south ridge, with four high camps. On April 22 leader Richard Jessup, Pierre de Montgolfier and Jean-François Porret reached the summit (7678 meters, 25,1...
Mount Whitney, East Face. On June 16, David Wilson and I ascended a new all-free route, Left Wing Extremist (V, 5.11a, 16 pitches) on this 2000-foot granite wall to the left of the old Direct East-Face route. We ascended a pedestal for two pitches...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Liberty Bell MountainMy climbing partner and I (Larry Deyo, 35) had completed the second pitch of the Becky Route on Liberty Bell, and it was my turn to lead. We were climbing with two o...
Lord of Alaska, by Hector Chevigny. 8vo., 320 pages, including bibliography, index and end-paper map. New York: Viking Press, 1942. Price $3.00.This is the story of Aleksandr Baranov and the Russian adventure in Alaska, and should be read by those...
A Guide to Trekking in Nepal. Stephen Bezruchka. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1981. 256 pages, black-and-white photographs, sketch maps, glossary, bibliography. $8.95.A Guide to Trekking in Nepal is the best and most comprehensive guidebook of its k...
Notable Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, 1989. I feel that the international press has exaggerated the danger to climbers in the Cordillera Blanca. Despite many fewer climbers, many have visited the region safely during the past year. Among other...
Incahuasi, Ruta de las Peladas. Incahuasi (6,638m) lies on the Chile-Argentina border in the central Andes and is one of the highest volcanoes on earth. It was also one of the highest points ascended by the Incas for religious purposes. On April 1...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn November 16,1986, a report of a fallen climber on Jimmy Cliff rock was called in. John Hayward (43) was leading “Third World” (5.9), and while trying to place protecti...
Mustagh Tower Attempt. The Fantasy Ridge Mustagh Tower Expedition arrived at Base Camp at 14,000 feet on the Baltoro Glacier on August 8. The team included Lyle Dean, Steve Gall, Doug Snively and me. Dean replaced Peter Habeler, who had to cancel ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE California, Lone Pine PeakOn April 30, 1988, Dave Dykeman and a small group of climbers were descending from a peak climb that was aborted due to high winds. There was a week old snow cover on a variably breakabl...
Makalu. The French expedition to Makalu led by Jean Franco deserves high praise. Thanks to excellent organization, splendid equipment, especially in their oxygen apparatus, perfect and nearly windless weather and a strong team of climbers, they ma...
North Baffin-Bylot Expedition. Our object was exploratory mountaineering in the “high arctic.” We began operations from the settlement of Pond Inlet at the north end of Baffin Island in early August, returning in early September. Utilizing a chart...
Colorado, North Maroon Bell. On 9 October James T. Slade and Marcie Roseman (22) climbed the North Maroon Bell from Crater Lake and reached the top about noon. After an hour of rest they descended the mountain towards the snow-fields on the Crater...
HAPE, DESIRE TO DO WELLAlaska, Mount McKinleyCraig Scott (30) was a member of a RMI expedition to climb the West Buttress route on Mount McKinley. The expedition flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier on June 2, 1990. Scott was a triathlete and was doing ...