Karcha Parbat. Base Camp of the expedition I led was set up on the true right bank of the Karcha Nala at 14,550 feet beneath the southwest face of Karcha Parbat on August 11. Advance Base was placed at 16,000 feet on August 15. Camp I was establis...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Our four meetings in 1972 were unusually well attended. Part of this stems from excellent programs: Gary Ullin on McKinley, Bob Pettigrew on Australian climbs, Warren Harding on El Capitan, and yours truly on the Moo...
Nameless Tower of Trango Attempt. Hisao Onami, Izuru Okada, Yasushi Sato, Masahiro Ishiguro and I reached Base Camp at 4150 meters on the Dunge Glacier on July 15. After ferrying loads to the base of the wall, on July 27 we began to attempt what p...
Dorje Lhakpa Attempt. Four Swiss and an Austrian led by Rolf Haas attempted to climb Dorje Lhakpa by its west ridge, but they could only reach 5800 meters on October 28.Elizabeth Hawley
Mahalay and Mandani. Dr. G.R. Patwardhan, leader, S.N. Apte, and M.V. Gokhale with high-altitude porters Ganga Singh Negi, Dilip Singh, Bijendra Singh Negi and Kripal Singh Negi climbed above Gangotri. Base Camp was set up at Tapovan (14,500 feet)...
Cerro Olivares, 1993-4. On December 26, 1993, Humberto Campodónico ascended the Quebrada Aspera and the ridge of Cerro Negro Aspero to bivouac at 4000 meters. The next morning, he left early and climbed to the summit of Cerro Negro Aspero and then...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Howard Douglas CreekTwenty clients of Canadian Mountain Holidays and three other persons left Sunshine Village ski area on skis with a guide at 1000 hours on 27 March 1977, bound for Citadel Pass. They were to be...
Kedar Dome Ascents, Attempts and Tragedy. Kedar Dome (6831 meters, 22,410 feet) was the scene of several ascents and a number of attempts in 1994. Spaniards led by Miguel Sanchez reached the top: Tomás Bravo and Jordi Giró on May 15, Xavier Lamas,...
“The Grépon has disappeared. Now that it has been done by two women alone, no self-respecting man can undertake it. A pity, too, because it used to be a very good climb."1 Those were the words of French alpinist Etienne Bruhl in 1929 on the return...
Historia del andinismo en Chile. Gastón San Román. Quickprint Y Cía, Santiago, 1989. 210 pages, 40 black-and-white illustrations, 7 sketch-maps. La directión del sector deporte. Gastón San Román. Quickprint y Cía, Santiago, 1989. 221 pages, 21 bla...
Our expedition began as nine Russians from Irkutsk, Moscow, and St Petersburg. However, at base camp Evgeny Korol caught a cold that quickly developed into pulmonary edema, and we had to evacuate him rapidly The St Petersburg team, Alexey Go...
Mountain Photography, by C. Douglas Milner. 237 pages, 135 photographs and many diagrams and graphs. London and New York: The Focal Press, 1945. 19/6.The work of one who is evidently not only an experienced photographer but a competent and enthusi...
Mount McKinley’s West Buttress: The First Ascent—Brad Washburn's Logbook, 1951. Williston, Vermont: Top of the World Press, 2003. 142 pages; 72 photos. Paperback. $23.00. (There is also a hardbound limited edition, signed and numbered, and priced ...
FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mt. BakerWhile searching for two overdue hikers, Joe Kassuba (40) and A1 Errington had an interesting incident which gives further evidence of the potential hazards of rescue. Note in Errington’s report, which follows...
Gongkala Shan, foiled attempt to gain the mountain; Haizi Shan, attempt. In September and October Toto Gronlund, Peter Rowat, Dave Wynne Jones, and I attempted the peaks of Kawarani I and II (5,992m and 5,928m) in the small Gongkala Range of Weste...
SAMUEL EVANS STOKES ALLEN1874 -1945The death of S. E. S. Allen, pioneer in the Lake Louise district, on March 27, 1945, gives release to one whose brilliant mind early became clouded, who had lived in confinement for more than forty years, his onl...
FALL ON ROCK, RUNNING ALONEColorado, Continental DivideOn August 4, 1980, John Link (43) and seasonal Park Rangers Chris Reveley and Robert Guthrie ran from the Wild Basin Ranger Station to Thunder Lake, 11 miles. (All three individuals were train...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Glacier Point ApronAfter climbing in the Valley for a couple of weeks, Peter Terbush (22), Joseph Kewin (21), and Kerry Pyle (20) were nearing the end of their vacation. On June 13, in late afternoon, they ...
Genyen Massif, Peak 5,695m, first ascent, Inglis-Puryear. In mid-October, Julie Hodson, Peter Inglis, Jay Janousek, Michelle Puryear, and I made our way toward Mt. Genyen (6,204m). Following the extensive research of Tamotsu Nakamura, our objectiv...
The First Ascent of Mount SalcantayJohn C. Oberlin and W. V. Graham MatthewsTHE shadow of our plane flickered across the brown hills beneath us as the pilot brought us down toward a valley spotted with green fields and darker clumps of eucalyptus ...