FALL ON ROCK – FOOTHOLD BROKE OFF, OFF ROUTE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Phantom TowerOn April 11, a party of three were going to attempt the South Face of the Phantom Tower, a 5.8 gear route in the Ghost River. The leader (20)...
Aguja de la S, The Art of War. With rumors of a weather window opening, Crystal Davis-Robbins, a 24-year-old also from the Durango area, and I frantically schlepped loads to our high camp at Niponino. A few Canadians, not as influenced by the bad ...
Ibrahim Brakk, Free Kashmir. Todd Offenbacher, Nils Davis, Sean Isaac, and friends Sean and Shelly Huisman and Hermein Freriksen, arrived in Islamabad on July 7. Sean, Todd and I had decided, after a chance meeting in Canada in 1999, to join force...
1951-041959-0420052005USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock4237521737Snow2235346337Ice24915850River14300Unknown22901Ascent or DescentAscent2853578619Descent2192362489Unknown2481221OtherNB70Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2958283497Slip on snow or ice950207...
A Rock Climbers Guide to Pinnacles National Monument. Paul G. Gagner. Taylor-Powell Printing Co., Fort Collins, 1983. 146 pages, 14 black and white photographs, 24 maps (including topos). $12.00.The Pinnacles has recently seen a radical advance in...
Mt. Robson from, the East. “God made the mountains, but good God! who made Robson?” exclaimed Conrad Kain, who led the first ascent in 1913. It was with high hopes, but with bleakly realistic expectations that Dave Bernays, Craig Merrihue, and Dmi...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. Our group was composed of Italo Valle, Gino Casassa, Rodrigo Mújica, Giorgio Cattoni and me as doctor and leader. The permission for our original objective, Shisha Pangma, was cancelled. After a period of acclimatization near E...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE FROM ANCHOR POINT-APPARENT ANCHOR FAILURE DUE TO EXTERNAL FORCESWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn April 29, Alan Rooney (38) and Jonathan Morrow (28) fell to their deaths while attempting an alpine climb on the nor...
Tayapampa in the Alpamayo ValleyRichard GoodyOUR small party met in Miami International Airport late in the evening of June 10; our objective: enjoyable mountaineering in the Alpamayo valley in the northern Cordillera Blanca; our party: Donald Mor...
The 1952 Harvard McKinley Expedition. The five members of the Harvard McKinley Expedition, Frederick L. Dunn, John Noxon, John Smith, Stephen Den Hartog, and I, all members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, left Cambridge on June 11th, arriving ...
Yellow Wall, possible new route. Our 21-day expedition to the Karavshin Valley last July was during one of the rainiest summers the Kyrgyz shepherds said they had seen in a long time. Despite this and numerous difficulties with border patrols, hav...
American Women’s Trans-Antarctica Expedition, 1992-3. Our original idea was a 1700-mile traverse of Antarctica. We planned a team of four, each pulling her own sled of supplies. After several shifts of route, we finally settled on the one done by ...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWyoming, Fremont CanyonTW (36) and EO (37) planned a weekend (in August) of climbing in Fremont Canyon. They arrived on Saturday morning at 0900. To start the day TW rappelled to the sloping ledge just above the ri...
Mount Foraker’s Southeast RidgeH. Adams CarterWith sections by James Richardson and Jeffrey DuenwaldOUR aerial reconnaissance was hardly a success. As Don Sheldon swooped his ski-wheeled Supercub over Foraker’s southeast ridge, we could see the ma...
Shyamvarn and Yogeshwar. An Indian team from Bombay was led by Ramakant Mahadik. On June 20, seven completed the second ascent of Shyamvam (6135 meters, 20,128 feet). The first ascent was in 1985, when the mountain claimed the life of one climber....
Distant Mountains. John Cleare. Discovery Channel Books: New York, 1998. 160 color photos. 173 pages. $35.00.“What beautiful names the mountains and glaciers have in this region…. said W.M. Conway of the Jungfrau region of Europe’s Alps. These sam...
AVALANCHE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Tuckerman RavineOn April 11, Daniel Zucker (46) from Danville, VT, and Tim Finnocchio (31), both athletic and experienced mountaineers, were climbing the steep snow route known as “D...
Extreme Rock: Great British Rock Climbs. Ken Wilson and Bernard Newman. Diadem Books, London, 1987. 296 pages, color photographs, line drawings, bibliography. £27.95.This colorful and exciting book gives us an insider’s view of the contemporary Br...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Dana GlacierOn July 26, 1992, at 1515 Ranger Dave Page received a report of a climbing accident on the Dana Glacier. The reporting party, Robert Gordon, was at the Tioga Pass Entra...
Fear and LoathingAlpine-style suffering on Jirishanca’s great southeast face.Nick BullockWe started to climb at one in the morning and I felt terrible. Approaching the start of an evil chimney—the drain for anything falling from Jirishanca’s massi...