Grand Teton National Park (2)—On August 29, 1954, Charles B. Richardson and Roald Fryxell were climbing on the north side of Symmetry Spire via a large chimney. Fryxell led out onto the south wall of the chimney around an overhang, and put a belay...
Cottontail, Hammerless Ascent. It was reported that Dave Goldstein and Mark Hammond made a probable first hammerless ascent of Cottontail in the Fisher Towers over three days in late October. The West Side Story (VI 5.9 A3) ascends the 850-foot to...
Kun. On August 10, our group, guided by Christian Laplace and me, gathered at Base Camp at 4400 meters on the moraine of the Shafat Glacier. Camp I was placed at 5300 meters. Our plan was to divide into two parties, one of which would move up one ...
Gasherbrum I, traverse. Peter Hámor and Piotr Morawski from Poland did an alpine-style traverse from south to north of Gasherbrum I (8,068m, a.k.a. Hidden Peak) in 12 days, from June 16-27, 2008. They started on the Spanish route (1983) on the sou...
Revised Heights, Corrections and Ascents in the Pissis, Bonete and Ojos del Salado Area. An unpublished map of the Institute Geografico Militar Argentino (all the heights have been taken from here) officially gives the new height of Cerro Bertrand...
Pongos and Uruashraju Groups, Cordillera Blanca. We first reconnoitered the Pongos group from the north and then from the south. Leaving the Catac-Chavín road at Lake Querococha and going up the Quebrada Cotush, we set up Base Camp at 13,600 feet ...
Rolling Thunder Mountain, Renny’s Route. This route, the most difficult yet made on this isolated peak, was climbed on July 9, 1980 by George Montopoli and Anne Macquarie. The five-pitch climb ascends the first crack system west of the dihedral th...
RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE JAMMED, STRANDED, OFF ROUTE Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Black Ice CouloirOn July 6, while ascending the Grand Teton around 0800, Park volunteers Lanny Johnson, PA, and Dr. Jim Little heard several loud whistles and distress calls eman...
West Fuller Butte, East Face. In May Don Reid and I climbed this face via a long dihedral that curves up and right, then ends just over halfway up the face. Three pitches lead to a sling belay at a point where one can move left across an easy face...
Torres Del Paine, Various Activity. On December 12,I arrived in Patagonia for what was to be a three-month stay. The weather had been bad for the last month with no recorded climbing activity. Amidst the usual foul weather patterns were occasional...
Snowpatch Spire, West Face. John Hudson and I arrived in the Bugaboos especially to try a new route on the west face of Snowpatch Spire, a long chimney breaking the face between the Buckingham and Beckey routes. On August 7 we started climbing at ...
Dorje Lhakpa. An expedition of eight Japanese and three Nepalese first tried the northeast ridge of Dorje Lhakpa, which they found too difficult, and then switched to the west ridge to complete the second ascent. The summit (6990 meters, 22,933 fe...
Ice Climbing in Canada. During the first part of my trip to North America, which began on March 14, I first tackled ice in Québec, Alberta and British Columbia. I made fifteen climbs of the most famous and difficult waterfalls, including La Pomme ...
Rundle’s Journal. In the Banff museum, attached to a photograph of R. T. Rundle, the Wesleyan missionary to the Indians, is a statement to the effect that he reached the vicinity of Banff in the summer 1841 and camped for five weeks at the base of...
Nevado Apachita Cuno, First Ascent, and other Climbs, 1983. From July 10 to 28, 1983, a party of ten, sent by the Club Andino Córdoba, was active in the area of Chachacomani. We placed a Base Camp in Hichucota valley. Several of us ascended first ...
The Chicago Mountaineering Club inaugurated a safety and training program in February 1949 and held six informal lecture and discussion periods during the spring. Attendance was gratifying, and all participants felt that the meetings were extremel...
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite ValleyOn August 5, 1987, Young Soon Lee (35) was with a party of five Korean climbers attempting the Northwest Face on Half Dome. Sometime before 2000 Choong Hyun Ji and Lee w...
Annapurna IV Attempt. Six Italians and three French climbers led by Renato Moro first attempted the north face and on October 6 Frenchman Pierre Bisson and Italian Giampaolo Zortea reached 6800 meters from Camp II and it became evident that they h...
Towers Below Wheeler Crest. In September Chris Vandiver and I climbed two virgin towers in this region, naming them Soaring Eagle Tower and Chicken of the Sea Tower. The former was a 500-foot F8 free climb on the east face, and the latter was a F5...
The first ascent of Lindbergh Peak, an impressive spire in the Hell Hole region, the summit of which attains the altitude of 12,- 000 feet, was made September 1, 1929, by Carl A. Blaurock, William F. Ervin and Stephen H. Hart. There are a number o...