On February 13, C.W. (26) and I, M.H. (38), were climbing The Sorcerer, a Grade V water ice climb. The first pitch went up a thin, mid-angled shield to a lower-angled dish from which the line headed right across slabby terrain and up to a short, s...
Campa I, Cordillera Vilcanota. On August 311 soloed Campa I and the following day Argentine Alberto Miori and I repeated the climb. Deteriorating weather and Miori’s health prevented further attempts in the Campa group and our attempt on Ausangate...
Peaks Southwest of Tirsuli. Two unnamed peaks (20,300 and 19,900 feet) southwest of Tirsuli were scaled on May 29 and 31 respectively by a team sponsored by Bombay University.2 They attempted another unnamed peak of 22,940 feet but failed to climb...
Olympics, Washington: (1) Mt. Anderson. On 4 September 1948 a party of five, including Ronald Nece (21), hiked into the Olympics from the Dosewallips Ranger Station to the Anderson Pass shelter. On the 5th the party crossed Anderson Glacier and Fl...
Teton Climbs. Art & Brent Pinnacle. In September 1984, Renny Jackson and Tom Kimbrough climbed a newly discovered and difficult pinnacle on the south side of Cascade Canyon, on the east side of the main Teewinot-Owen cirque. The route required...
Mount Dragtooth, Northeast Arête. When one views the Sawtooth Ridge from the vicinity of Bridgeport, the prominent northeast arête stands out on Mount Dragtooth. In closer views a classic line is seen directly up its northeast face in a dihedral. ...
Cotopaxi (ca. 19,500 ft.) was climbed on June 13, 1938, by G. H. Bullock, accompanied to about 17,000 ft. by André Roosevelt, who was overcome by the altitude and had to turn back.
Banff National Park, Lake Louise Area. On 17 September Randy Hodgins of Calgary slipped and fell to his death from a rock ledge on the east shoulder of Sheol mountain above the Paradise Valley. He was a member of a party of four persons that left ...
Everest, the death ofBabu Chiri. Babu Chiri, the incredibly strong and fast mountaineer who was also the most famous Sherpa of recent times, died on April 29 at the age of 35. His most spectacular feats on Everest include staying overnight on the ...
My Vertical World. Jerzy Kukuczka. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1992. 192 pages. $29.95. On a sunny afternoon in the fall of 1989, I was coming off a modest expedition in the Khumbu when I heard that the extraordinary Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukucz...
South Dakota, Badlands National Monument—On July 27, a party of 35 Boy Scouts from Fargo, North Dakota, was stopped at the Norbeck Pass Overlook in Badlands National Monument. The weather was very hot, the temperature being 102° F., but several of...
Free climbing on El Capitan: days on a wall, high exposure, awkward chimneys and offwidth stuff, and, last but not least, mostly natural pro—all ingredients for a particularly interesting game. Lynn Hill’s ascent of the Nose was an exploit, an eve...
STRANDED—FORGOT TO UNTIE SAFETY KNOT IN RAPPEL ROPE—JAMMED IN ANCHOR, STRANDEDCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn July 3 Chris Donharl (17), Ben Beezley (17), and Mike Haig (about 25) hauled their bags to Sickle Ledge from the ground but the...
K2 Ascent and Tragedy. In order to acclimatize our members before attempting K2, we established a training camp near Nanga Parbat from May 18 to June 10. On June 6, ten of our thirteen members reached the summit of Rakhiot Peak (7074 meters, 23,20...
Colorado, Third Flatiron. On July 12, a group of boys under Carl Boehm’s leadership was descending the Third Flatiron after a successful ascent. One of the boys, Shaw, lost his footing during a rappel, fell sideways, and struck and lacerated his s...
The TempleWorshipping at Mt. Kenya’s feet, the Nithi Gorge.Alexander JakubowskiFlicking through a back issue of High magazine in the St. Govans Inn at Pembroke one night, I came across an article about climbing in Kenya written by UK South West le...
On May 18, D.S. and I decided to attempt a ski ascent of North and South Twin, despite the fact that the third member of our party could not come along. The year 2001 was a low snow year, but we felt it was reasonable for the two of us to ascen...
Arguments over the wisdom of attempting to honor the “best climb of the year” came to a head before and after the 16th Piolet d’Or ceremony in Grenoble, France, on January 26, 2007. The Piolet d’Or is sponsored by the French magazine Montagnes, wi...
Moro Rock, Pressure Sensitive. The massive west face of Moro Rock has a very conspicuous ramp which cuts the wall at mid-height when viewed from Amphitheater Point. This ramp comprises the center portion of this route, climbed by Dick Leversee, Ed...
Climbing the State High Points of the U. S.Lawrence I. GrinnellEXPEDITIONARY exploration of one’s hobbies, whether geographical, mental, or esthetic, is a fascinating pastime. Comparative expeditions stamp the parts of a project into more vivid co...