FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNova Scotia, Eagle’s Nest, “No Man’s Land”September 30 was a great climbing day at Eagles Nest. The cool morning air of Fall was quickly warming up, the skies were clear, and the rock was cool to the touch. It wa...
Triangle Peak, attempt on west (southwest) couloir. By October 1, 2001 all of our gear was at Pemthang Karpo Kharkha (4,675m), our campsite in the Langtang Valley. It used to be a classic stop for pirates on route to Xixabangma. Looking north from...
Aconcagua. On 19 February 1949 Lieutenant William D. Hackett reached the summit of Aconcagua in company with an Argentine officer, Lieutenant Jorge Mottet. Hackett thus became the first to have ascended both McKinley and Aconcagua. The five-man cl...
Saskatchewan Glacier. No measurements were made, but the upper course was examined from Castle guard meadows on July 1st, 1937. The glacier has receded more than 200 ft. from the S. lateral moraine where horses were taken on the ice in 1923. This ...
Cho Oyu, Southwest Face. The only people to climb Cho Oyu from Nepal in the post-monsoon accomplished a remarkable achievement. They were just two Japanese women and a man: Miss Taeko Nagao, leader and Miss Yuka Endo, both already with three 8000e...
Pangi Valley, Sersank Peak, attempt; Peak 5,027m, first ascent. A small British expedition explored the upper Tiaso Nala and the area of the Sersank Pass in late June and early July 2007. The team, consisting of Rob Ferguson, Graham Little, Jim Lo...
Mt. Hess, East Buttress, Second Ascent, Previously Unreported. In May, 1997, Jon Miller and I climbed up snow and low-fifth-class rock from the upper Gillam Glacier at 4,640 feet to the upper basin (8,400') beneath the north ridge. After a storm d...
Canyonlands. Several new Wingate Spires have been scaled recently in Canyonlands. Leonard Coyne, Ellen Figi and I made the first ascent of Bridger Jack, a500-foot butte, this summer. Our route, Wild Flower (III, 5.10), ascends prominent 5.9 cracks...
New Routes on Grand Sentinel and North Dome, Kings’ Canyon National Park. In July, Bruce Bourassa and I climbed Cosmopolis, a new route on the Grand Sentinel, which we believe to be the third route on the formation and the first new route in 10 ye...
Lindbergh Fjeld, Multiple First Ascents. In July and August, the team of Mike Berthold, Paul Campion, Jonathan Clark, Sam Dickinson, Chris and Vanessa Helliwell, Ben Irons, David Keaton, Adrian Pedley, and Paul Walker climbed a number of peaks. Ja...
Ama Dablam, Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was led by Guido Bu- mann and I was the climbing leader. Other members were Ruth Beck, Lieselotte Schmidt, Maya Senn, Heidi Cadisch, Christoph Jetzler, Fritz Maurer, Max Wettstein, Christoph Häuter, S...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Devils Lake was the site for numerous outings in the spring, summer, and fall seasons. We are currently gathering material for a guide to the climbs in this area. Several week-end trips were also made to the Mississi...
Kangchungtse Tragedy. Nobody knows if this French expedition put anyone on the summit of Kangchungtse or Makalu II or not. Four climbing members made a bid for the summit on November 1 but they turned back late in the afternoon when Denis Jeanvoin...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn December 21, 1986, Lawrence DeLong (38) was lead climbing “Double Cross,’” a 5.7 crack on Old Woman Rock. He was approximately six meters from the ground,...
A Korean expedition led by Yoon Dae-pyo made the first ascent of Baintha Brakk II (Ogre II, 6,960m) by the northwest buttress. They established two camps on the glacier and one on the buttress. Rope was fixed between Camps 2 and 3. Lim Deok-yong a...
Dhampus. On October 15, Japanese Shigeyuki Baba, leader, and Kenichiro Kawaguchi and Gaja Bahadur Gurung climbed to the summit of Dhampus (6012 meters, 19,724 feet) by its southwest face and west ridge.Elizabeth Hawley
Matri. Thirteen climbers from Durgapur were led by Swapan Kumar Ghosh. They set up Base Camp near the snout of the Matri Glacier on August 14. On September 1, the leader and Arvind Patel climbed to the summit (6721 meters, 22,050 feet).Kamal K. Gu...
Mount Robson, Ski Descent of the North Face. It was reported that Troy Jungen and Peter Spricenieks skied the North Face of Mount Robson in September, experiencing tricky and dangerous snow conditions with around 18 inches of wind crust, transitio...
Koshtantau, Caucasus. Vera Watson led four climbers representing the American Alpine Club at the second session of the Inter-nation Camp Bezengi in August. The others were Margaret Young, Robert Summers and I. Thirty-nine climbers from six countri...
A Field Institute in the Mountain and Expeditionary Sciences, ]uneau Icefield. A permanent field facility to provide an academic and practical training program for students interested in polar, mountain and glacial sciences has been established in...