Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Rakaposhi, Second Ascent by New Route, Northwest and Southwest Ridges

Rakaposhi, Second Ascent by New Route, Northwest and Southwest Ridges. The first ascent of Rakaposhi (25,550 feet) was made in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey. Since then all other attempts had ended in failure. The Polish-Pakistani expedition 19...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, France, The Alps, Eiger

Eiger. The N. wall of the Eiger was finally ascended this past summer by an Austrian party composed of H. Harrer and F. Kas- parek, and a German party composed of L. Vörg and A. Heck- maier, the two parties combining their forces and making the cl...


Accident Reports ANAM
Bon Echo Provincial Park, Ontario

Bon Echo Provincial Park, Ontario. On 8 July Brian Cook and Nicholas Pawley began climbing shortly after 6 p.m. on a grade four route up the cliff along Lake Mazinaw. Cook had led grade six climbs here and Pawley grade five. They planned to altern...


Accident Reports ANAM
Hold Pulled Out, Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mount Sir Donald

HOLD PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mount Sir DonaldOn July 30, 1987, following a successful climb, a guide (30+) and his client moved camp for the ascent of the Northwest Arête the following day. A...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest West Ridge and Traverse

Everest West Ridge and Traverse. The Bulgarian Everest Expedition was organized to honor the 40th anniversary of the Bulgarian socialist revolution and the 80th anniversary of the foundation of the Bulgarian Revolutionary Trade Unions. It consiste...


Notes AAJ
Canada, Selkirk Range: Trout Lake Group

Selkirk Range: Trout Lake Group. The Trout Lake Group in the sourthern Selkirks was visited in 1948 by R. Clapp, L. M. Erskine, Jr., and A. Griscom. Erskine and Griscom ascended Fays Peak (9260 ft.), the highest point on Silvercup Mountain. On the...


Club Activities AAJ
British Columbia Mountaineering Club

British Columbia Mountaineering Club. The 1967 season was an active one with the favorable influences of good weather and Canadian Centennial projects. Our schedule featured 70 trips ranging from short hikes and snowshoe outings to long class 4 an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Gurja Himal, Northwest Spur and North Ridge

Gurja Himal, Northwest Spur and North Ridge. Our expedition was organized by the Lyon Section of the French Alpine Club and supported by the Féderation Française de la Montagne. The members were Pierre Buttin, leader, Mlle N. Brocard, Mme Y. Butti...


Notes AAJ
Errata, François de Ribaupierre

François de Ribaupierre. The name of the Swiss painter mentioned in the note appended to the memorial to Mrs. Colt (A.A.J., VII, Sept. 1949, 329) should be—as Marjorie Hooker, of McLean, Va., has pointed out— François de Ribaupierre, not “Ritanpie...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Gangotri Region

Gangotri Region. The north ridge of Gangotri I was climbed by Manzoor Ahmed and Bimal Chandra Goswami of Assam on May 18. A 13-member team of Himalaya’s Beckon from Calcutta set up Base Camp at 4510 meters on May 14 and Camps I, II and III on May ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Three Expeditions to the Hindu Kush

Three Expeditions to the Hindu Kush. Poles led by J. Wala made various ascents: in the Qadzi Deh: Aspe Safed (21,325 feet) and P 6250 (20,506 feet) between Aspe Safed and Noshaq; on the frontier chain towards the Zebak district: six 5000-meter (16...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, South Georgia, Mount Paget, Alladyce Range, North East Spur

Mount Paget, Alladyce Range, North East Spur. In November 2003 a Spanish team including José Carlos Tamayo made a rare ascent of Mt. Paget (2,935m), the highest peak on the island of South Georgia and the highest on British soil. They repeated the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Himalayas, Barun Valley

Barun Valley. In 1952 Shipton, Evans, Hillary, and I reached the Barun Glacier and descended it. Makalu was then unexplored and the lower Barun was of great beauty. We planned to return. The New Zealand Alpine Club was fired by our descriptions an...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate Protection, Exceed Abilities, No Hard Hat, Utah, Indian Creek, Cat Wall

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HATUtah, Indian Creek, Cat WallOn May 17, a man and his wife and their two friends (ages unknown) were climbing Johnny Cat (5.12+). The man was going for the ...


Club Activities AAJ
Arizona Mountaineering Club

Arizona Mountaineering Club. The Arizona Mountaineering Club (AMC) increased its membership in 1999 to more than 500 and added new programs for its members. The Club meets the fourth Monday of each month in Phoenix. Speakers at these meetings incl...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rock Gave Away — Fall on Rock, Colorado, Indian Peaks

ROCK GAVE AWAY - FALL ON ROCKColorado, Indian PeaksOn August 21, Glenn Porzak (64), his son Austin Porzak, and Robert Petrowsky were climbing on the East Ridge between Little Pawnee Peak (12,466 feet) and Pawnee Peak (12,943 feet). Sometime during...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate Belay, No Hard Hat, Arizona, Oak Creek Canyon Overlook

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE BELAY,NO HARD HATArizona, Oak Creek Canyon OverlookOn May 22, 1993, on a climb called “Crack Up” (5.9), Richard Forbes (34) was leading above his belayer, Sandra Draus (46), who was apparently 25 fee...


Book Reviews AAJ
An Epitome of Fifty Years' Climbing

An Epitome of Fifty Years’ Climbing, by Claude Wilson. Printed for private distribution. 1933.Written at the instigation of Mr. Henry F. Montagnier and limited to 125 copies for private distribution, the main part of this book consists of a tabula...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Himal, Everest, Oldest and Youngest Summiteers

Everest, oldest and youngest summiteers. The oldest person ever to reach the summit was a 64- year-old American physician, Sherman (“Sherm”) Bull. He was joined at the top by his son, Bradford (“Brad”) Bull (33). The pair were only the second fath...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Rakaposhi Attempt

Rakaposhi Attempt. David Reeder, Roger Gocking, Ray Kalio and I attempted the Dutch variation to the Pakistani-Polish route on the northwest ridge of Rakaposhi in July and August. We were joined by Poles Aleksander Lwow and Piotr Snopczynski, who ...