Kluane National Park, St. Elias Mountains. Climbing activity has again increased in the Park. There were 20 expeditions with 87 climbers spending 2099 man-days in the Kluane area. There was a new route climbed on Mount Logan and possibly a new rou...
Altar Group and Cayambe. An expedition from Waseda University was led by Junji Miyano. On June 28 Tadashi Hayakawa and Takeo Tsunoda reached the summit of Obispo (17,454 feet), the highest in the Altar group. When they reached the upper part of th...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonLate on the afternoon of June 11, 1994, Mike Tucker (43) and Bill McDonald (39) were descending the Owen Spalding route on the Grand Teton following a successful as...
Mount Moran, West Dihedrals. This route which I climbed solo on June 28, 1979 is on a southwest-facing wall to the south of the Fonda Ridge. It starts to the right of a huge arch or roof, which is similar to the Cyclop’s Eye of El Capitan, and con...
Colorado Mountain Club. Three successful outings highlighted the activities of the club. The first, in early June, was a one-week boat trip along the shores of Lake Powell, recently formed by Glen Canyon Dam. The second was a two-week outing in th...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn June 21, two young men (18 and 19) were climbing without ropes in a remote area of the park when one of them dislodged a rock and started to fall. The rock then struck the second ...
Whitney Portal Buttress, Wonderwall. This route was first attempted in June, 1978 by David Black, Kim Walker and me. Walker and I returned in April, 1979 for two more unsuccessful attempts. Jack Roberts and I made a first ascent on May 18-19 with ...
Edward W. D. Holway: A Pioneer of the Canadian Alps, by Howard Palmer. University of Minnesota Press, Minneapolis, Minn., 1931. Pp. ix, 81. Map and 8 illustrations. $1.50.Mountaineers will find in this little volume the authentic account of the as...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OFCRAMPONSColorado, Longs PeakWhile on patrol on October 6, I was contacted at the Chasm Meadow Shelter Cabin by William Barber at 12:40 p.m. He reported that Charles O. Nesbit (31), a member of their...
Mount Hooker, Northeast Face. Photographs from early expeditions along the Whirlpool River indicated not only the splendor of the Scott Glacier and Hooker Icefield but the elegance of the ice-clad northern and eastern faces of majestic Mount Hooke...
Nilgiri. The Netherlands Himalayan Expedition, led by myself with Dr. T. de Booy as deputy, further consisted of the following Dutchmen: Dr. J. W. A. Bodernhousen, H. J. Nijhuis, Dr. G. Schaar, (all heretofore mentioned are geologists), Dr. A. Tam...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Green Pillar. Brian Marts and I climbed this 1700-foot wall in September in two days. The difficult and complicated route starts directly across from the Chasm View Wall. After 120 feet of lower Class 5, we got to the...
The Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) of Kathmandu, Nepal, operates a medical aid post in the village of Pheriche (13,920 feet), an eight-hour walk from the Mount Everest Base Camp. Since 1973, it has been providing medical care to trekkers, clim...
El Escudo, Et Si Le Soleil Ne Revenait Pas.… On December 18,1997, Swiss climbers Jean- Daniel Nicolet and Jean-Michel Zweiacker climbed a new wall route on the east face of Escudo. Et Si Le Soleil Ne Revenait Pas.… (VI 5.10 A4) takes a line to the...
Mount Stuart, South Ridge and Headwall. On May 30, 1966, camp was made on the large alluvial fan in the Ingalls Creek Valley, and from here Darrell Sorenson and I climbed straight toward Mount Stuart’s granite summit. We followed the couloir towar...
Nanga Parbat Tragedy. Preparations for the first American attempt on Nanga Parbat began in 1975. Expedition leaders, Dan Bunce, George Bogel and I, selected a team, set a timetable, explored sources of funding and submitted an application to the P...
Eastpost Spire. The southeast ridge, a new route on this peak, was ascended by John Manry, Cam Mitchell, Jack McKenzie and Hans Gmoser, all of the Alpine Club of Canada. The climb starts at the lowest point of the rock ridge and involves approxima...
Bona and Tressider. Our party included several from the Mount Logan Project: Tom Lyman, Jenny Cook, A.J. LaFleur and me. Coming from the East to join us were Stu and Gail Ashley, Rick Wilcox, Fred Bragdon, Jeff Black, Howard and Sue Stidham and St...
Himlung Himal. An expedition of the Federation of All Japan Mountaineering Unions, led by Hisachika Zenko, tried to climb Himlung Himal (23,380 feet), which is near the border between Nepal and Tibet, northeast of Annapurna. This seven-man party w...
Longpo Gang or Big White Peak. A joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition made the second ascent of this peak (7083 meters, 23,238 feet) via the east ridge, the same route taken by the Japanese in 1962. They set up Camps I, II and III at 15,425, 17,625 ...