“The Grépon has disappeared. Now that it has been done by two women alone, no self-respecting man can undertake it. A pity, too, because it used to be a very good climb."1 Those were the words of French alpinist Etienne Bruhl in 1929 on the return...
Historia del andinismo en Chile. Gastón San Román. Quickprint Y Cía, Santiago, 1989. 210 pages, 40 black-and-white illustrations, 7 sketch-maps. La directión del sector deporte. Gastón San Román. Quickprint y Cía, Santiago, 1989. 221 pages, 21 bla...
Our expedition began as nine Russians from Irkutsk, Moscow, and St Petersburg. However, at base camp Evgeny Korol caught a cold that quickly developed into pulmonary edema, and we had to evacuate him rapidly The St Petersburg team, Alexey Go...
Mountain Photography, by C. Douglas Milner. 237 pages, 135 photographs and many diagrams and graphs. London and New York: The Focal Press, 1945. 19/6.The work of one who is evidently not only an experienced photographer but a competent and enthusi...
Mount McKinley’s West Buttress: The First Ascent—Brad Washburn's Logbook, 1951. Williston, Vermont: Top of the World Press, 2003. 142 pages; 72 photos. Paperback. $23.00. (There is also a hardbound limited edition, signed and numbered, and priced ...
FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mt. BakerWhile searching for two overdue hikers, Joe Kassuba (40) and A1 Errington had an interesting incident which gives further evidence of the potential hazards of rescue. Note in Errington’s report, which follows...
Gongkala Shan, foiled attempt to gain the mountain; Haizi Shan, attempt. In September and October Toto Gronlund, Peter Rowat, Dave Wynne Jones, and I attempted the peaks of Kawarani I and II (5,992m and 5,928m) in the small Gongkala Range of Weste...
SAMUEL EVANS STOKES ALLEN1874 -1945The death of S. E. S. Allen, pioneer in the Lake Louise district, on March 27, 1945, gives release to one whose brilliant mind early became clouded, who had lived in confinement for more than forty years, his onl...
FALL ON ROCK, RUNNING ALONEColorado, Continental DivideOn August 4, 1980, John Link (43) and seasonal Park Rangers Chris Reveley and Robert Guthrie ran from the Wild Basin Ranger Station to Thunder Lake, 11 miles. (All three individuals were train...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Glacier Point ApronAfter climbing in the Valley for a couple of weeks, Peter Terbush (22), Joseph Kewin (21), and Kerry Pyle (20) were nearing the end of their vacation. On June 13, in late afternoon, they ...
Genyen Massif, Peak 5,695m, first ascent, Inglis-Puryear. In mid-October, Julie Hodson, Peter Inglis, Jay Janousek, Michelle Puryear, and I made our way toward Mt. Genyen (6,204m). Following the extensive research of Tamotsu Nakamura, our objectiv...
The First Ascent of Mount SalcantayJohn C. Oberlin and W. V. Graham MatthewsTHE shadow of our plane flickered across the brown hills beneath us as the pilot brought us down toward a valley spotted with green fields and darker clumps of eucalyptus ...
Mt. Chamberlain, I Fink Therefore I Am. Having long been fascinated with reports and photos of Mt. Chamberlain, deep behind the Sierra Crest, I finally made the trip in July. Ever ready for adventure, the energizer bunny himself, Jonny Copp of Bou...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PROTECTION PULLED OUTAlberta, Ghost River area, BonanzaOn September 6, a party of three were climbing Bonanza, a 5.8 gear route located in the Ghost River area. About midway up the route the leader, J.I. (34)...
EnsueñoThe northwest buttress of Fitz Royby Andrea SarchiTwelve years have elapsed since my first journey to Patagonia. The first time I arrived in that place, it rained, the mountains were wrapped in the dense mists of the south and everything se...
Some Climbs in the SelkirksGeorgia EngelhardAFTER two weeks of climbing in the Canadian Rockies, where the brittle limestone rock is always a menace, where one often toils arduously up long scree slopes until one reaches the actual climbing, and w...
The Bar-Headed GooseThomas H. JukesMILLIONS OF YEARS before George Leigh Mallory attempted to ascend Everest “because it was there,” a remarkable bird had found its way over Everest’s summit, thanks to winning a prize in evolution’s lottery. The b...
New York Section. The year 2007 was a particularly active and interesting one for the New York Section. We reached a record 750 members by year’s end, aided by a special outreach to younger members by the national AAC and by continuing to provide ...
Mt. Belanger, King's Couloir. Dave Marra and I were tossing back a few pints of Canada’s finest at the Downstream Pub in Jasper and soon were jabbering about picking off a new midsummer ice route. When Dana Ruddy, fresh from a jaunt up Mt. Fryatt,...
Nilkanta, Garhwal Himalaya, 1949WILLI UNSOELDEarly on the morning of July 4, 1948, two rucksack-laden hitchhikers stood hopefully beside U.S. 66 on the outskirts of Los Angeles. Their thumbs pointed east, their axes proclaimed their membership in ...