El Capitan, Reach for the Sky, 1989. This route, done in the fall of 1989, starts several hundred yards left of the West Face route and above the huge chockstones in the gully. I spent eight days and four nights on the wall on this eight-bolt solo...
Washington, Mt. Rainier. At about 8:00 a.m. on 31 May Mr. Sundquist and his daughter, and Mr. James M. Reddick (51), with his son David (12) and daughter Sharon (11) left Paradise for Camp Muir. The party planned to spend the night in the public s...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Mount Norman ClydeOn June 29, 1987, a rappelling climber dislodged a boulder that hit Roy Bishop (54) on the head. He tumbled down ten meters, landing on a narrow ledge. After regaining consciousness, Bishop was tied off on...
Langtang Lirung Winter Ascent. The summit of Langtang Lirung (7234 meters, 23,734 feet) was reached for the ninth time when Japanese leader Akitsugu Nishimura, Pang Nima Sherpa and Ang Kazi Sherpa got to the top via the southeast ridge on December...
Annapurna II Attempt. A Japanese expedition of four had hoped to climb the southwest ridge of Annapurna II, a new route. They reached only 5100 meters and were stopped by the constant fall of séracs and stones. All three climbing members reached t...
Yanashinga, Direct South Face. José Li Linway, Diego Fernández, and I left the village of San Mateo (3,300m), arriving at Tíclio in the middle of the night and at the foot of the wall around 3:00 a.m on July 20. Roped as a team of three, with the ...
Charlotte Dome, Southwest Arête. Dave Lomba and I climbed 11 pitches of choice high-country granite along this narrow ridge. We skied over Kearsarge Pass in early May and camped near Bullfrog Lake. The climb was all free, clean, and took most of a...
The second ascent of the most difficult peak in Colorado, the Lizard Head, 13,156 feet, was accomplished on June 9, 1929, by Harold G. Wilm and Dobson West. The first ascent was made by Albert Ellingwood, accompanied by Barton Hoag, in 1920. The s...
Himachal Pradesh, Indian Ascents. A team from Dum Dum was led by Pabitra Bhusan Sanyal. The summit of CB53 (6095 meters, 19,995 feet) was gained on September 8 by Soumitra Ganguly, Chandan Lohia and high-altitude porter Maniram. This was the first...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The section held three regular meetings during 1972. In addition, a family picnic was held in July and an annual banquet on December 8. Terris Moore gave an illustrated account of the 1932 Minya Konka climb at the March me...
Masherbrum Far West. A ten-man Italian expedition led by Augusto Zanotti climbed the most westerly peak of 7200 meters (23,622 feet) of the Masherbrum group by its west face. The summit was reached on September 8 by the leader Zanotti, E. Corbelli...
Cho Oyu Winter Attempt. South Tirolean Kurt Walde was hoping to make a solo climb of Cho Oyu by the normal route from Nepal on the western side of the peak. He was forced by terrible wind to retreat after reaching 7500 meters.
Kamet. A 13-man Indian expedition led by Anil Deb climbed Kamet (25,447 feet) on September 20. The summit team was deputy leader Pranesh Chowdhury and Sherpas Lapka Tsering and Nima Dorje.
New Altitudes of the Paso de San Francisco Region. North of the Ojos del Salado, the dry, high desert has almost been a blank on the map until the Argentine Instituto Geográfico Militar recently released the accurate map: Paso de San Francisco, Ho...
Mount Saint Elias, First Winter Ascent. On February 13, 1996, David Briggs, Gardner Heaton and Joe Reichert were flown to 2,300 feet on the Tyndall glacier, and, over the course of the next 30 days, ascended the southwest ridge of Mount Saint Elia...
Shisha Pangma Attempt. The 19-member expedition which Simonson led established Base Camp at the end of the road at 16,280 feet on September 20. Yaks transported our gear the 13 miles to Advance Base at 18,300 feet, established on September 25. Sim...
Washington, Granite Mountain—Snoqualmie Pass Area—On April 7, Thomas Heaphy (16) lost his life following a long slide down a snow slope while ascending Granite Mountain. As he tried to slide on wet snow about 10 feet down to the trail, he started ...
Everest, Kangshung Face, Second Ascent of Neverest Buttress. On May 15, three members of our Chilean expedition summited on Mount Everest, after completing the second ascent of the east face of Everest directly to the South Col. (See AAJ, 1989, pa...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow Peak, West FaceTwo climbers were glissading down the west face of Bow Peak at a height of 2800 meters at 1800 hours on 19 March 1977. The sky was overcast and the temperature about — 15°C, and the snow surfac...
RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE TANGLED, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO HEAD LAMPAlabama, PelhamOn March 2, Chad Lovelady (23) and Eric Langwager (17) decided they would go rappelling that evening on rocks behind the building where th...