LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWashington, Mount ShuksanOn August 4, 1984, three young men were practicing techniques for steep angle snow descents on Mount Shuksan when one of them, William Couvion (1...

British Hills and Mountains, by J. H. Bell, E. F. Bozman and J. Fairfax-Blakeborough. 8 vo.; pp vii +115, with 99 plates, three in color, index and maps. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons (London: B. T. Batsford, Ltd.), 1940. Price $3.00.This is a...

The Breach: Kilimanjaro and the Conquest of Self. Rob Taylor. Coward, McCann & Geoghegan, New York 1981. 254 pages, photographs, diagram. $14.95.Big climbs can establish and affirm friendships; they can also destroy them. International expedit...

Quitaraju, Alpamayo, Tsurup, Pisco, Ocshapalca, Cayesh. For acclimatization Joan Amils and I climbed the north face of Quitaraju on June 16 and the southwest face of Alpamayo. On June 28, we repeated the 1982 Spanish route on the southwest face of...

Aconcagua (6,962m), 2008-2009 season overview. Fewer climbers visited Aconcagua this season than last (4,041 versus 4,548), likely due to the economic crisis. Eighty-four percent of the climbers came from outside Argentina. There were nearly 300 r...

FALL ON RAPPEL, IMPROPER TECHNIQUE California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn December 9, 1986, at 1400,. Ellen Hoffman (26) was rappelling down the face of Intersection Rock from a climb called “The Flake,” when her rope became tangled. She stop...

Baintha Brakk (Ogre), South Pillar Attempt. From May 18 to 23 we made our approach to Base Camp at 15,750 feet on the Uzun Brakk Glacier. From May 24 to June 5 we carried loads and placed camps at 17,400 and 19,800 feet. We fixed 2500 feet of rope...

STRANDED, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT California, Yosemite Valley, Washington ColumnTwo male climbers, both 27, were rescued from the Skull Queen climbing route on Washington Column on Friday, May 6, 1988, when they became 52 stranded in a storm...

Langtang Himal. The famous Swiss climber, Raymond Lambert, and the noted Belgian scientist, Canon Jules Détry, in early April 1955 made a nine-day march from Kathmandu to the Langtang Gompa monastery where at about 13,000 feet on the Nepalese-Tibe...

Mount Robson, First Attempted Solo Ascent of North Face, Second Solo Ascent of Kain Face. On August 8 I climbed from Berg Lake via the rock between the Mist and Tumbling Glaciers to a tent placed previously with the help of friends underneath the ...

Arizona, Superstition Mountains, Flat Iron. On 13 February Larry Treiber (23), William Betcher, and Bruce Grubbs with a full complement of gear for a 6 Class ascent and gear for a one night bivouac attempted to climb the so-called Nose which had b...

FALL ON SNOW, AVALANCHE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlaska, Bold PeakOn June 3, 1990, two experienced Alaskan mountaineers set out to climb Bold Peak (2286 meters) located in the Eklutna Lake area of the Chugach Mountains. They planned the ascent to take...

Everest Attempt. Josema Casimiro and I shared the route on the north side of Everest with a large Swedish expedition. We followed the classic route on the East Rongbuk Glacier and on May 20 climbed to the North Col some 300 meters to the left of t...

Masherbrum. We marched 112 miles from Skardu, along the Shyok, up the Hushe valley, and then, on June 15, 1957, to Base Camp on Masherbrum Glacier at the foot of Sérac Glacier. During fine weather we established Camp I (15,500 feet) at the top of ...

Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. Our expedition, composed of Martin Doyle, Lindsay Griffin, Dave Harries, Mike Woolridge, Katherine Slevin and me as leader, attempted the very difficult, unclimbed east buttress of Annapurna Dakshin (7919 meters, 23,683 ...

Nudo Millpo, 1974. On our expedition from Italy, I was accompanied by my wife Maria, Giuseppe Cazzaniga, Italo Valmaggia, Giancarlo Del Zotto and Celso Salvetti. From July 28 to August 22, 1974 we were in the mountains, which lie just south of the...

Thalay Sagar Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Akira Kiuchi reached 6200 meters. Two members suffered from sickness and rockfall threatened.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club

P 19,958, Lower Baltoro Glacier. An expedition of the Groupe de Haute Montagne attempted to climb the granite tooth which lies between the Uli Biaho and Trango glaciers and between Payu Peak and and Trango Towers. It is given as 6083 meters (19,95...

It was reported that Gene Kisler and Todd Offenbacher climbed a new route on the previously unexplored Pigeon Feathers. They gave the ten-pitch route a grade of V 5.10 A3, but said that now that the route has been cleaned it would most likely go...

FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDOregon, Mount HoodOn February 29, Ralph Leach (40), Tom Morgan (53), and Lee Hepfer (49) successfully ascended the South Side (Hogsback) route on Mount Hood. At 1130 while descending the same route, Hepfer jumped the b...