West Fuller Butte, East Face. In May Don Reid and I climbed this face via a long dihedral that curves up and right, then ends just over halfway up the face. Three pitches lead to a sling belay at a point where one can move left across an easy face...
Torres Del Paine, Various Activity. On December 12,I arrived in Patagonia for what was to be a three-month stay. The weather had been bad for the last month with no recorded climbing activity. Amidst the usual foul weather patterns were occasional...
Snowpatch Spire, West Face. John Hudson and I arrived in the Bugaboos especially to try a new route on the west face of Snowpatch Spire, a long chimney breaking the face between the Buckingham and Beckey routes. On August 7 we started climbing at ...
Dorje Lhakpa. An expedition of eight Japanese and three Nepalese first tried the northeast ridge of Dorje Lhakpa, which they found too difficult, and then switched to the west ridge to complete the second ascent. The summit (6990 meters, 22,933 fe...
Ice Climbing in Canada. During the first part of my trip to North America, which began on March 14, I first tackled ice in Québec, Alberta and British Columbia. I made fifteen climbs of the most famous and difficult waterfalls, including La Pomme ...
Rundle’s Journal. In the Banff museum, attached to a photograph of R. T. Rundle, the Wesleyan missionary to the Indians, is a statement to the effect that he reached the vicinity of Banff in the summer 1841 and camped for five weeks at the base of...
Nevado Apachita Cuno, First Ascent, and other Climbs, 1983. From July 10 to 28, 1983, a party of ten, sent by the Club Andino Córdoba, was active in the area of Chachacomani. We placed a Base Camp in Hichucota valley. Several of us ascended first ...
The Chicago Mountaineering Club inaugurated a safety and training program in February 1949 and held six informal lecture and discussion periods during the spring. Attendance was gratifying, and all participants felt that the meetings were extremel...
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite ValleyOn August 5, 1987, Young Soon Lee (35) was with a party of five Korean climbers attempting the Northwest Face on Half Dome. Sometime before 2000 Choong Hyun Ji and Lee w...
Annapurna IV Attempt. Six Italians and three French climbers led by Renato Moro first attempted the north face and on October 6 Frenchman Pierre Bisson and Italian Giampaolo Zortea reached 6800 meters from Camp II and it became evident that they h...
Towers Below Wheeler Crest. In September Chris Vandiver and I climbed two virgin towers in this region, naming them Soaring Eagle Tower and Chicken of the Sea Tower. The former was a 500-foot F8 free climb on the east face, and the latter was a F5...
The first ascent of Lindbergh Peak, an impressive spire in the Hell Hole region, the summit of which attains the altitude of 12,- 000 feet, was made September 1, 1929, by Carl A. Blaurock, William F. Ervin and Stephen H. Hart. There are a number o...
Karcha Parbat. Base Camp of the expedition I led was set up on the true right bank of the Karcha Nala at 14,550 feet beneath the southwest face of Karcha Parbat on August 11. Advance Base was placed at 16,000 feet on August 15. Camp I was establis...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Our four meetings in 1972 were unusually well attended. Part of this stems from excellent programs: Gary Ullin on McKinley, Bob Pettigrew on Australian climbs, Warren Harding on El Capitan, and yours truly on the Moo...
Nameless Tower of Trango Attempt. Hisao Onami, Izuru Okada, Yasushi Sato, Masahiro Ishiguro and I reached Base Camp at 4150 meters on the Dunge Glacier on July 15. After ferrying loads to the base of the wall, on July 27 we began to attempt what p...
Dorje Lhakpa Attempt. Four Swiss and an Austrian led by Rolf Haas attempted to climb Dorje Lhakpa by its west ridge, but they could only reach 5800 meters on October 28.Elizabeth Hawley
Mahalay and Mandani. Dr. G.R. Patwardhan, leader, S.N. Apte, and M.V. Gokhale with high-altitude porters Ganga Singh Negi, Dilip Singh, Bijendra Singh Negi and Kripal Singh Negi climbed above Gangotri. Base Camp was set up at Tapovan (14,500 feet)...
Cerro Olivares, 1993-4. On December 26, 1993, Humberto Campodónico ascended the Quebrada Aspera and the ridge of Cerro Negro Aspero to bivouac at 4000 meters. The next morning, he left early and climbed to the summit of Cerro Negro Aspero and then...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Howard Douglas CreekTwenty clients of Canadian Mountain Holidays and three other persons left Sunshine Village ski area on skis with a guide at 1000 hours on 27 March 1977, bound for Citadel Pass. They were to be...
Kedar Dome Ascents, Attempts and Tragedy. Kedar Dome (6831 meters, 22,410 feet) was the scene of several ascents and a number of attempts in 1994. Spaniards led by Miguel Sanchez reached the top: Tomás Bravo and Jordi Giró on May 15, Xavier Lamas,...