Antizana Sur. Two Ecuadorians, Rómulo Pazmino and Leonardo Droira, and I made the first ascent of Antizana Sur (18,275 feet) in the Cordillera Oriental. We attempted the peak three times, reaching on the second attempt a point 100 feet below the s...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO ICE AXE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet CanyonOn June 11, 1994, Artur Kruk (31) and Iri Krol (33) were descending steep snow near Spalding Falls when Krol slipped and fell app...
Mount Moran, Northwest Ridge. This ridge lies just west of the Triple Glacier Route and was first climbed on July 17, 1977 by Paul Horton and Lew Hitchner. Although it is a major feature of the mountain, the climbing was not difficult and the rock...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club conducted a greater than usual number of local outings during the year. In addition, members climbed almost every weekend throughout the year on unscheduled trips, and traveled as far as Seneca Rock, West Virg...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWest Virginia, Seneca Rocks, PruneJohn Markwell, owner of the Gendarme Climbing Shop at Seneca Rocks, reported that there had only been one severe accident there this year. On the second pi...
Tuttle Creek Obelisk, School’s Out. In June Brent Norum and I established the second route on this striking pillar. Starting a short distance right of the Rowell-Jones route, ascend a right-slanting ramp for 200 feet to the base of a large corner....
Bradford on Mt. Fairweathcr, by Bradford Washburn. Putnam’s, 1930. Pp. ix, 127; 31 photos, 3 sketch maps. $1.75.This book for boys, detailing the experiences of a band of youthful adventurers on the skirts of Mt. Fairweather, may be noticed here o...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF KNOT Colorado, Lover’s LeapPam Spence (31), Steve Locatelli and Magda King were scouting a technical route on Lover’s Leap on August 27. All three were experienced and all had climbed it before. They were trying new routes...
Keele Peak, Hess Mountains. This mountain is located on the Yukon- North West Territories border. George Denton and I ascended Keele by a rib in its west face on July 2.Monty Alford
Dhaulagiri II. A South Korean expedition of five climbers reconnoitered Dhaulagiri II but did not get far.
Steamboat Rock, Southeast Face, Dinosaur National Monument. Mike Couvington, Brian Marts and I made the first ascent in September. The route goes up the left side of the face, where it overhangs throughout its 700 feet. The first two leads were al...
Disciplinary Measures Taken by the Nepalese Government. Four expeditions have been disciplined by the Nepalese government for having made illegal climbs. These were the Poles for having climbed the middle peak of Kanchenjunga, the Spaniards who ha...
Torres Del Paine, Various Ascents. Andy McAuley of Australia and Carsten Birckhahn of Germany climbed in a climbing area called Grupo la Paz, four spectacular towers without names or topos, four hours from Puerto Natales by boat on the shore of Ca...
Mount Rainier, Nisqually Cleaver. On June 19, Fred Dunham and I climbed the ridge separating the Nisqually Icefall and the Nisqually Ice- cliff. We decided to climb the lower Nisqually Chute before traversing to the ridge because rotten, vertical ...
Batura I Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Shin’ichi Kono failed to make the second ascent of Batura I (25,540 feet) by the route first climbed by Germans. Base Camp had been established on June 7 and the route had been prepared to Camp IV at ...
Pigeon Spire, North Face. While we were camped at Pigeon Col, the nearby unclimbed north face of Pigeon Spire presented an obvious challenge. On August 5, the day after our arrival at the col, I cut steps across the north bergschrund and then Yvon...
“Trident Peak”, Kenai. After packing up Falls Creek late the previous day, Chuck McLaughlin and I made the first ascent on July 1 of this massive, glacier-hung, gendarme-studded mountain, which lies in the Snow River-Paradise Lake area five miles ...
Twins. An expedition of four from the Tokyo Agricultural University, led by Ken Miyazawa, attempted the Twins (24,117 feet) on the frontier between Nepal and Sikkim, just north of Kangchenjunga, which had been tried unsuccessfully before the war. ...
Phurbi Chhyachu, Jugal Himal. Our joint expedition made the first ascent of Phurbi Chhyachu (6658 meters, 21,844 feet) by its southwest ridge. We were three Nepalese and sixteen Japanese. We left on March 25 and got to the Jugal Base Camp at 13,62...
Mount Alberta, Northeast Ridge. Kevin Swigert and I climbed the northeast ridge of Mount Alberta on August 10 and 11. The climbing was predominantly on rock with the crux, an impressive 1200-foot pillar high on the face. Eight final pitches on ste...