Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Rolwaling Himal

Rolwaling Himal. The Rolwaling valley, directly south of Guarisankar, was visited in April by ten members of the Royal Netherlands Alpine Club. From Kathmandu we went by car to Barabise along the “Chinese Road” and from there took the steep road v...


Notes AAJ
Errata, Glacier Peak

ErrataGlacier Peak. In an editorial comment introducing “The Ascent of Glacier Peak” by the late Thomas Riggs (A.A.J., VII, Jan. 1949, 160-64), the altitude of the mountain is listed as 10,436 ft. A letter from Robert R. Coats, of Cabin John, Md.,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Mana

Mana. A team of 14 Indian climbers from the Army Adventure Foundation and 13 American Army climbers were the first joint team from the Indian and U.S. Armies. They put 26 climbers on the summit (7272 meters, 23,860 feet) by the southwest ridge, fi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Urgent East Attempt, Wakhan

Urgent East Attempt, Wakhan. We had bad luck on our second attempt on Urgent East when on July 26 Jorge Matas fell into a crevasse near Camp II and was killed. We abandoned the climb to return to Spain as quickly as possible. Our first attempt on ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Unnamed Peak, First Ascent, Prospect Point

Unnamed Peak, First Ascent, Prospect Point, Antarctic Peninsula. A group of eight Palestinian and Israeli adventurers—the Breaking The Ice expedition—with another eight support crew, traveled well south down the Peninsula aboard the well-known yac...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Himalayas, Makalu

Makalu. The French expedition to Makalu left Jogbani on August 21st and encountered the most trying conditions on their approach to the Barun Valley because of the severe monsoon. During a very difficult river crossing over the Dubi, where a bridg...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Lirung Attempt and Ganja La Chuli Ascent

Langtang Lirung Attempt and Ganja La Chuli Ascent. Our expedition consisted of Marc Chauvin, Henry Kendall, Jeff Pheasant, Nick Yardley, Jeannette Helfrich, Chris Hurtibise, Henry Kohn, Peter Gamache, Dr. Ian Wedmore, Bill and Mike Yeo, Sam Dohert...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error, Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon

FALL ON ROCK - RAPPEL ERRORUtah, Big cottonwood CanyonOn May 5, a man (22) rappelling in Big Cottonwood Canyon survived a fall of more than 50 feet. He was rappelling with friends near Storm Mountain around 4:00 p.m. He suffered a broken leg and w...


Club Activities AAJ
California Mountaineering Club

California Mountaineering Club. The California Mountaineering Club is now ten years old. We have nearly 300 members, mostly from southern California but with a growing number from all regions of the state and many from other states. We climb mostl...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error — Carabiner Gate Not Closed, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Boulderado Crag

RAPPEL ERROR - CARABINER GATE NOT CLOSED, NO HARD HATColorado, Boulder Canyon, Boulderado CragOn August 17, Andrew Tysinger (23) was on top of the Boulderado Crag with his girlfriend showing her how to rappel when he fell from the top of the crag....


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Inadequate Belay, Arizona, Desert Botanical Garden

FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT, INADEQUATE RELAY Arizona, Desert Botanical GardenOn March 13, 1993, a 17-year-old Chandler boy suffered minor injuries when he fell 50 feet during a mountain-climbing class at Hole-in-the-Rock near the Desert Botanical G...


Book Reviews AAJ
Alpine Days and Nights

Alpine Days and Nights, by W. T. Kirkpatrick, with a Paper by the late R. Philip Hope, and a Foreword by Col. E. L. Strutt, 8 vo., 198 pages, with index and twelve illustrations. London. George Allen & Unwin Ltd., 1932. Price 7/6.This is the s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Himal, Everest, Pre-monsoon, Statistics

Everest, pre-monsoon statistics. The largest number of people in any single season reached the summit of Everest during the spring. An astonishing total of 183 went to the top, 101 from the south and 82 from the north. The total far surpassed the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Baintha Brakk Attempt

Baintha Brakk Attempt. Hans-Christian Hocke, Malte Roeper, Anton Schu hegger, Jürgen Wittmann and I as leader hoped to climb the southwest buttress of Baintha Brakk (Ogre), which the French attempted in 1983 (AAJ, 1984, page 299). We placed Base C...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rappel—No Belay, Inexperience, Nova Scotia, Eagle's Nest

FALL ON RAPPEL—NO BELAY, INEXPERIENCENova Scotia, Eagle’s NestOn April 13, Chris and Ray went out to this popular climbing area to do some basic top- roping. They decided to rappel to the bottom of the 20-meter cliff, even though Chris was not ver...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Himal, Yansa Tsenjui Attempt

Yansa Tsenji attempt. A British commercially-organized expedition led by David Pritt was unsuccessful in an attempt on the east ridge of this recently opened 6,643m peak on the north side of the Langtang Valley (northeast of Kyanjin Gompa). The te...


Notes AAJ
South America, Patagonia

Patagonia. During the early months of 1949, Maynard M. Miller and Robert L. Nichols participated with three Argentine geologists in a glaciological and geomorphological expedition to the Argentine Lake District. The party left Buenos Aires in the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Alberta, Rocky Mountains of Canada, A Note on the Chaba Glacier

A Note on the Chaba Glacier. On July 7th, 1933, being encamped in the eastern fork of the Chaba, E. Cromwell and the writer reoccupied the glacial observation station made by the Harvard party of 1927, at which time (July 28th) the ice was within ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Cholatse Attempt

Cholatse Attempt. Seven Germans led by Hans-Jörg Gutzler failed on their attempt to climb Cholatse by the southwest ridge at 5750 meters.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahul & Spiti, Gangsthang, lower West Face; Thirot Shivling (5,324m)

Gangsthang, lower west face; Thirot Shivling (5,324m). Our team of nine climbers met with cold, variable weather but discovered a magnificent new valley for mountaineering, the Thirot Nala in the Lahaul district of Himachal Pradesh. Initial reconn...