Aguja Guillaumet, Various Ascents. Aguja Guillaumet saw several ascents during the 1995- 1996 season. Perhaps most noteworthy was Richard Aschert and Bryan Becker’s ascent of a new variation to the 1981 Buscaini/Metzeltin Route on the southeast fa...

Boboquivari Peak, Babo Heads. In January, I soloed Babo Heads (IV 5.11 a) on the south face of Boboquivari Peak. The route starts a few hundred feet left of the Southeast Arête and climbs a line of bolts (placed during someone’s failed attempt) to...

Ama Dablam. On April 11 our Australian expedition arrived at Base Camp for the north ridge of Ama Dablam after a 16-day walk-in from Karantichap. This was at 16,800 feet at the head of the lateral moraine valley of the Ama Dablam Glacier, south-so...

Annapurna, Northwest Buttress Attempt. Annapurna’s still unclimbed northwest buttress is very dangerous. My friends and I are still alive, but we were in the wind from many avalanches in Camp I. An avalanche in Camp II killed a member of the Korea...

Mount Hood, Illumination Rock. In early August, Jim Petroske and I started up what we thought was the South Chamber Route. We ascended steep snow and ice to the base of the wall at the upper end of the chamber and directly below the South Pinnacle...

Annapurna South Face, Winter Attempt, 1984-5. A Japanese expedition attempted the 1970 British route on the south Face of Annapurna in the winter of 1984-5. The leader was Kuniaki Yagihara. On December 29, 1984 Yukio Matsunaga and Hideji Nazuka go...

McKinley, Rapid Multiple Ascents. After 11 days of acclimatization, Brad Johnson left the 17,200-foot camp on May 19 and climbed round-trip to the north summit and back in 3 hours 40 minutes. The next day, he and companions climbed to the south su...

Trisul. A Spanish expedition led by Jaime Izquierdo made the ascent of Trisul. Details are not yet available.

Punta Negra, Tridente and Cerro Norte del Paine.lan Burgess, David Lister, David Tyson and I arrived on September 30 for a six-week stay in the Paine region. We set up Base Camp high in the Río de los Perros valley. On October 19, we all made the ...

FALL ON ROCKIowa, Maquoketa Caves State ParkIn late August 1988, Val Svetich (24) fell while rock climbing at Maquoketa Caves State Park and reportedly lost her leg. She was climbing with a friend near a cave called Fatman’s Misery according to a ...

Torre Egger Attempt. A very strong American party led by Jay Smith made an attempt on the east face of Torre Egger early in 1993. They were turned back some five pitches from the summit by very inclement weather.

Barrille, Southeast Couloir, and Peaks Above the Ruth Glacier, 1975. We members of the Bone and Skin Club (Hone to Kawa in Japanese), Teruaki Segawa, Kansei Suga, Masayuki Suemasa and I, had hoped to climb the west ridge of Huntington, but glacier...

Grand Teton National Park (2)—On August 29, 1954, Charles B. Richardson and Roald Fryxell were climbing on the north side of Symmetry Spire via a large chimney. Fryxell led out onto the south wall of the chimney around an overhang, and put a belay...

Cottontail, Hammerless Ascent. It was reported that Dave Goldstein and Mark Hammond made a probable first hammerless ascent of Cottontail in the Fisher Towers over three days in late October. The West Side Story (VI 5.9 A3) ascends the 850-foot to...

Kun. On August 10, our group, guided by Christian Laplace and me, gathered at Base Camp at 4400 meters on the moraine of the Shafat Glacier. Camp I was placed at 5300 meters. Our plan was to divide into two parties, one of which would move up one ...

Gasherbrum I, traverse. Peter Hámor and Piotr Morawski from Poland did an alpine-style traverse from south to north of Gasherbrum I (8,068m, a.k.a. Hidden Peak) in 12 days, from June 16-27, 2008. They started on the Spanish route (1983) on the sou...

Revised Heights, Corrections and Ascents in the Pissis, Bonete and Ojos del Salado Area. An unpublished map of the Institute Geografico Militar Argentino (all the heights have been taken from here) officially gives the new height of Cerro Bertrand...

Pongos and Uruashraju Groups, Cordillera Blanca. We first reconnoitered the Pongos group from the north and then from the south. Leaving the Catac-Chavín road at Lake Querococha and going up the Quebrada Cotush, we set up Base Camp at 13,600 feet ...

Rolling Thunder Mountain, Renny’s Route. This route, the most difficult yet made on this isolated peak, was climbed on July 9, 1980 by George Montopoli and Anne Macquarie. The five-pitch climb ascends the first crack system west of the dihedral th...

RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE JAMMED, STRANDED, OFF ROUTE Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Black Ice CouloirOn July 6, while ascending the Grand Teton around 0800, Park volunteers Lanny Johnson, PA, and Dr. Jim Little heard several loud whistles and distress calls eman...