LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OFCRAMPONSColorado, Longs PeakWhile on patrol on October 6, I was contacted at the Chasm Meadow Shelter Cabin by William Barber at 12:40 p.m. He reported that Charles O. Nesbit (31), a member of their...
Mount Hooker, Northeast Face. Photographs from early expeditions along the Whirlpool River indicated not only the splendor of the Scott Glacier and Hooker Icefield but the elegance of the ice-clad northern and eastern faces of majestic Mount Hooke...
Nilgiri. The Netherlands Himalayan Expedition, led by myself with Dr. T. de Booy as deputy, further consisted of the following Dutchmen: Dr. J. W. A. Bodernhousen, H. J. Nijhuis, Dr. G. Schaar, (all heretofore mentioned are geologists), Dr. A. Tam...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Green Pillar. Brian Marts and I climbed this 1700-foot wall in September in two days. The difficult and complicated route starts directly across from the Chasm View Wall. After 120 feet of lower Class 5, we got to the...
The Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) of Kathmandu, Nepal, operates a medical aid post in the village of Pheriche (13,920 feet), an eight-hour walk from the Mount Everest Base Camp. Since 1973, it has been providing medical care to trekkers, clim...
El Escudo, Et Si Le Soleil Ne Revenait Pas.… On December 18,1997, Swiss climbers Jean- Daniel Nicolet and Jean-Michel Zweiacker climbed a new wall route on the east face of Escudo. Et Si Le Soleil Ne Revenait Pas.… (VI 5.10 A4) takes a line to the...
Mount Stuart, South Ridge and Headwall. On May 30, 1966, camp was made on the large alluvial fan in the Ingalls Creek Valley, and from here Darrell Sorenson and I climbed straight toward Mount Stuart’s granite summit. We followed the couloir towar...
Nanga Parbat Tragedy. Preparations for the first American attempt on Nanga Parbat began in 1975. Expedition leaders, Dan Bunce, George Bogel and I, selected a team, set a timetable, explored sources of funding and submitted an application to the P...
Eastpost Spire. The southeast ridge, a new route on this peak, was ascended by John Manry, Cam Mitchell, Jack McKenzie and Hans Gmoser, all of the Alpine Club of Canada. The climb starts at the lowest point of the rock ridge and involves approxima...
Bona and Tressider. Our party included several from the Mount Logan Project: Tom Lyman, Jenny Cook, A.J. LaFleur and me. Coming from the East to join us were Stu and Gail Ashley, Rick Wilcox, Fred Bragdon, Jeff Black, Howard and Sue Stidham and St...
Himlung Himal. An expedition of the Federation of All Japan Mountaineering Unions, led by Hisachika Zenko, tried to climb Himlung Himal (23,380 feet), which is near the border between Nepal and Tibet, northeast of Annapurna. This seven-man party w...
Longpo Gang or Big White Peak. A joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition made the second ascent of this peak (7083 meters, 23,238 feet) via the east ridge, the same route taken by the Japanese in 1962. They set up Camps I, II and III at 15,425, 17,625 ...
Mount Thor, West Face. A Japanese expedition climbed a route on the 4500-foot-high west face of Mount Thor. The face had been attempted by Ronald Sacks, Steve Ampter and Michael Sawicky, who climbed 3400 vertical feet before a storm drove them off...
Kohe Larissa, Shir Koh, Kohe Hevad, Kohe Dusti, Ishmurgh Valley. The Biomedical Hindu Kush Expedition of the German Alpine Club (DAV) and the University of Munich was led by Dr. Roman Zink and composed of Dr. Udo Irmler, Dr. Sylvester Lechner, Max...
Unnamed (10,150 ft.). Ten or 12 miles N. E. of the Big Bend bridge (Columbia River), from which it is seen prominently; 5 miles E. of Canoe River, the highest in its group. 1940 first ascent by H. S. Hall, Jr., E. Feuz, Jr. A lumber road with brid...
El Toró or Yerupajá Chico and Other Peaks, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our expedition consisted of Toyoaki Arai, Moriaki Honda, Takachika Akino, Tateo Miyata and myself as leader, as well as the Peruvian porter Sergio Callupe of Pocpa. We left Chiquián ...
Huayna Potosí, First All-Woman Ascent. The Unión Panamericana de Montanismo and the Federatión de Andinismo de Chile jointly sponsored a South American all-woman expedition to the Cordillera Real of Bolivia. Twelve climbers with a distinguished re...
Belukha, Katun Range, Altai Mountains, Siberia. Nine Austrian and two Czechoslovakian mountaineers were invited to see this marvelous mountain region. Base Camp was installed by the Soviet Sports Committee at Lake Ak-Kem at 6650 feet. We were ther...
Pongos Group and Chopicalqui. The German Naturfreunde (Friends of Nature) was led by Rolf Röcker and composed W. Weber, F. Wibmer, H. Güner, W. Hummel, Dr. Schwenkglenks, P. Schiml and me. We first climbed nearly all the peaks in the Pongos group ...
The British Columbia Mountaineering Club is cooperating with the Mountain Rescue and Safety Council of the State of Washington in developing consciousness of mountain safety among its members in the Vancouver region This organization has had no fa...