Mount Logan. Mount Logan was by far the most popular mountain with nine expeditions: 6 via the King Trench route, 1 via the east ridge, 1 via the south-southeast spur and one attempt on the southwest ridge and south face. The following climbed via...
Yosemite Valley, Various Activity. On El Cap, Leo Houlding, assisted by José Pereyra, established the dynamic Passage to Freedom (runout 5.13c/d A0), a free variation of New Dawn to the top of El Cap Tower (see below). Meanwhile, Michael Mayr and ...
On June 1, the victim (28) climbed about 30 feet up the Bastille Crack, slipped while making a traverse, and while falling pulled out his only piece of protection and consequently hit the ground.(Editor’s Note: Protection pulling out—or simply ina...
Richard Leech, Oliver Shergold, Martin Shelley, Polly Truscott, Punit Khare, Louise Rickard, Rob Haddock, Roy Bannerman and I as leader made up the Imperial College Pamir Expedition. We joined 11 Russians from Kazan for six weeks of climbing in th...
Mount Hunter, North Ridge. The north ridge of Hunter was climbed in May by Dave Adams, Mike Kalvelage, John Marconi and me. We were flown to the north fork of the Tokositna Glacier on May 7 and established Base Camp at 8500 feet near the landing z...
Mount Foraker. Mount Foraker was climbed by its southeast ridge, first by John Tuckey and Rob Kimbrough and then by Glenn Randall and Peter Metcalf.
FALL ON ROCK, PITON/NUT FAILURE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. LouisClaude Puguay and Daniel Parent, both experienced rock climbers, were climbing Mt. Louis on 9 July 1979. Thinking they were on the standard route, which starts up the east face, th...
Haystack, Southwest Face, 1979. In the summer of 1979, from the lowest point of the south end of the southwest face of Haystack, I soloed up the slab leading to a left-diagonalling crack above the small roofs. I followed the crack for a single rop...
Aksai Chin, north summit, second ascent, southeast route. As reported in AAJ 2006, p. 439, Aksai Chin (7,167m: sometimes referred to as Kun Lun, as it is the highest peak in this part of Kun Lun Range) was climbed in 1986 and 1997 by Japanese expe...
Annapurna 1, Winter Attempt and Tragedy. A Korean expedition led by Kim Teuk-Hee formed the season's largest expedition of eight members and nine Nepalese in a winter attempt on the north face of Annapurna (8091 meters). On December 2, at the begi...
East Peak of Mount Stutfield. It was the assumption of many that, with the ascent of the Center Peak of Mount Bryce in 1961, the last 11,000- foot peak of the Canadian Rockies had been climbed. Bill Hooker and I were therefore rather surprised to ...
Mount Case, Glacier Bay National Monument. Peter H. Robinson and I ascended this graceful peak in July via the first couloir north of the summit on the west side in a 16-hour day from Dirt Glacier outwash. The difficulties we encountered with the ...
CANADAFALLING ICE, POOR POSITIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Louise FallsOn January 20, a number of parties were climbing on this popular multi-pitch water ice Grade 4+ climb near Lake Louise. One of the parties high on the route dislodged a larg...
Icecap Crossing and Various Ascents. It was reported that in July and August, Douglas Campbell and Malcolm Thorburn crossed the icecap from Narssarssuaq to the western/central icecap, making several ascents of peaks up to 2000 meters at a grade of...
The British Columbia Mountaineering Club. The 1964 climbing season was an active one for Vancouver’s British Columbia Mountaineering Club. Fifty-two trips of varying difficulty were scheduled, and a 10% increase over last year’s attendance presage...
Changabang Attempt. Our group consisted of five Australians, Charles Cuthbertson, Martin Hendy, Malcolm Noble, Andrew Henderson and me. Unfortunately we did not reach the summit of Changabang but were turned back about 125 feet from the top by atr...
Yosemite Peak (Peak 9980), East Face. This little-climbed peak between the forks of Cascade Canyon has an impressive east face resembling some of the giant formations in Yosemite Valley. A route was climbed up the extreme left side (Weeks’ Chimney...
P 5297, Jurau Group. Italians from Trieste, Renzo Zambonelli, leader, Luciano Cergol, Piero Gerin, Sandra Matjak, Tullio Piemontese, Fulvio Cekada and Antonio Alberti, established Base Camp at 13,775 feet below Juraucocha in early August. They est...
Mount Bennington, North Face, Ramparts. Among the many spectacular high mountain walls in the magnificent Ramparts is the northern face of Mount Bennington, 10,750 feet, the third highest peak in this area. Henry Mather and I spent several days ne...
Aguja Guillaumet, East Face, Cerro Eléctrico Principal, Cerro 30° Aniversario Traverse and Attempt on Fitz Roy. My husband Gino Buscaini and I had our Base Camp at the Piedra del Fraile on the Río Eléctrico from December 13, 1981 to February 9. Th...