FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION PULLED, FATIGUE, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEVermont, Nichol’s LedgeOn October 22, Ian (22) and Ryan (23) were attempting to climb the first pitch of a two-pitch route unfamiliar to both. Ian was leading an...
Longs Peak. The “Doorway” route on the east face of Longs Peak starts at a point midway between the Stettner Ledges and Alexander’s Chimney. John Hough and Layton Kor made this new route on September 20. The first lead, 40 feet long, ends on a foo...
Mount Blackadar, St. Elias Mountains, 1983. On August 18, 1983 Bob Blackadar, Jim Brock, Michael Dixon and we two made the first ascent of Mount Blackadar (2035 meters, 6750 feet; 59° 51’ N, 137° 54’ W) on the east side of the Alsek River. The bas...
STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn November 11, 1982, Ranger Gary Colliver was the incident commander on a night rescue, which began about 1900, to bring two stranded hikers out of the upper portion...
Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, First Free Ascent. One week after our departure from Copenhagen, Dusan Beranek, Ivan Doskocil and I from Slovakia reached Base Camp below Ulamertorssuaq. Also present were expeditions from Great Britain, Switzerland, the...
Gasherbrum II. Philippe Grenier, Dr. Christine Janin and I started our approach march on July 9 with 23 porters and our liaison officer, Major Sher Khan. We arrived at Base Camp at 16,750 feet on July 20. We had to climb first 3000 feet of glacier...
Palcaraju Oeste, South Face, New Route, Previously Unreported. In September, 1999, Frédéric Bréhédon and Benoît Peyronnard established Tempête de Joie on the south face of the 6110-meter, rarely climbed Palcarju Oeste in the Chinchey Group northea...
Annapurna, South Face Attempt. An expedition of five Yugoslavs and two Italians was led by Andrej Štemfelj. They attempted a new route on the south face of Annapurna between the British and Japanese routes. Warm weather triggered much rockfall. On...
Bugaboo Spire, Symposium. Wyoming climber Alex McAfee took advantage of excellent early August weather to complete a new route, solo, that he’d started the previous year. Symposium (15 pitches, VI 5.8 A2+) ascends Bugaboo Spire’s 1,600' east face,...
Ingalls Peak, North Peak, Northwest Ridge. On October 6, Dred Dunham and I completed this short but interesting route. We gained the ridge from a polished ramp on the west about 150 meters from the start of the ridge proper, which was too rotten t...
The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee, chaired by Lynette Zuercher, scheduled 243 summer season ascents, which included 38 Basic School climbs and 10 Ski Mountaineering climbs. After enduring the attrition of inclement Northwest weather, 179 success...
Kang Guru Attempt and Tragedy. Five Austrians and a German led by Norbert Raich hoped to climb Kang Guru by its southwest ridge. The high point was reached on October 22 by Raich, three members and two Sherpas. The next morning the German, Berndt ...
McKinley, Southwest Face Traverse and Other Routes. Not liking snow conditions for a snowboard/ski descent, Dirk Collins and I opted for a traverse which took us from our camp at 14,300 feet on the West Buttress over the West Rib at 16,500 feet ac...
Leo Pargial and Other Peaks, Various Ascents. We (Arun Samant, leader; Aloke Surin, Anil Chavan and Ravi Wadaskar) went to the Chango Valley of the Kinnaur District in the Himachal Pradesh during July and August to attempt Leo Pargial (6791m), the...
Nanda Kot. A joint Indo-Japanese expedition led by Kosuke Ota was composed of seven Japanese and two Indians. On October 17, Masaki Nomura, Tsuyoshi Takeda, Hiroaki Takeishi, Akira Tomita and two Sherpas reached the summit (6861 meters, 22,510 fee...
Aguja del S. A 4-man Bulgarian party led by Alexandr Ruevski had hoped to climb Fitz Roy but could not because of bad weather. Miroslav Sevilevski and Valentin Trenev took advantage of a calm day to make a new route on the east-southeast face of t...
Mirrors in the Cliffs. Edited by Jim Perrin. Diadem Books, Ltd., London, 1983. 688 pages, 11 color plates and 21 pages of black-and white photographs, 26 cartoons by Sheridan Anderson. $12.95.Jim Perrin has put together a collection of 100 article...
RAPPEL FAILURE and FALL FROM BUILDING, JILTED Illinois, ChicagoDale Moll (33) fell 16 stories while attempting to use television cables on the roof of a highrise to rappel down to the window of his girlfriend’s fifteenth floor apartment. Less than...
Cordillera Vilcanota. From August 3 to 24, 1973 I led a German Alpine Club group to the Vilcanota. We were Holger Bantele, Karl Engelbrecht, Karl and Gunda Hacker, Franz Hauer, Horst Harich, Dr. Hans Macholdt, Dr. Rudolf Neeb, Alfred Späth, Dr. Ha...
Bífida, East Buttress, 1992. Austrians Georg Schörghofer and Paul Bruckner climbed a new 24-pitch route on the east buttress of Bífida which joined the Bonapace-Dünser route toward the top. Further details have not reached us.