Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Himachal Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh, Indian Ascents

Himachal Pradesh, Indian Ascents. A team from Dum Dum was led by Pabitra Bhusan Sanyal. The summit of CB53 (6095 meters, 19,995 feet) was gained on September 8 by Soumitra Ganguly, Chandan Lohia and high-altitude porter Maniram. This was the first...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Cascade Section

A.A.C., Cascade Section. The section held three regular meetings during 1972. In addition, a family picnic was held in July and an annual banquet on December 8. Terris Moore gave an illustrated account of the 1932 Minya Konka climb at the March me...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Far West

Masherbrum Far West. A ten-man Italian expedition led by Augusto Zanotti climbed the most westerly peak of 7200 meters (23,622 feet) of the Masherbrum group by its west face. The summit was reached on September 8 by the leader Zanotti, E. Corbelli...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Cho Oyu Winter Attempt

Cho Oyu Winter Attempt. South Tirolean Kurt Walde was hoping to make a solo climb of Cho Oyu by the normal route from Nepal on the western side of the peak. He was forced by terrible wind to retreat after reaching 7500 meters.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Kamet

Kamet. A 13-man Indian expedition led by Anil Deb climbed Kamet (25,447 feet) on September 20. The summit team was deputy leader Pranesh Chowdhury and Sherpas Lapka Tsering and Nima Dorje.


Notes AAJ
New Altitudes of the Paso de San Francisco Region

New Altitudes of the Paso de San Francisco Region. North of the Ojos del Salado, the dry, high desert has almost been a blank on the map until the Argentine Instituto Geográfico Militar recently released the accurate map: Paso de San Francisco, Ho...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Wrangell-St. Elias Mountains, Mount Saint Elias, First Winter Ascent

Mount Saint Elias, First Winter Ascent. On February 13, 1996, David Briggs, Gardner Heaton and Joe Reichert were flown to 2,300 feet on the Tyndall glacier, and, over the course of the next 30 days, ascended the southwest ridge of Mount Saint Elia...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma Attempt

Shisha Pangma Attempt. The 19-member expedition which Simonson led established Base Camp at the end of the road at 16,280 feet on September 20. Yaks transported our gear the 13 miles to Advance Base at 18,300 feet, established on September 25. Sim...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Granite Mountain—Snoqualmie Pass Area

Washington, Granite Mountain—Snoqualmie Pass Area—On April 7, Thomas Heaphy (16) lost his life following a long slide down a snow slope while ascending Granite Mountain. As he tried to slide on wet snow about 10 feet down to the trail, he started ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Everest, Kangshung Face, Second Ascent of Neverest Buttress

Everest, Kangshung Face, Second Ascent of Neverest Buttress. On May 15, three members of our Chilean expedition summited on Mount Everest, after completing the second ascent of the east face of Everest directly to the South Col. (See AAJ, 1989, pa...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Alberta, Rocky Mountain, Bow Peak, West Face

AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow Peak, West FaceTwo climbers were glissading down the west face of Bow Peak at a height of 2800 meters at 1800 hours on 19 March 1977. The sky was overcast and the temperature about — 15°C, and the snow surfac...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error — Rope Tangled, Stranded, Inexperience, Darkness, Inadequate Equipment — No Head Lamp, Alabama, Pelham

RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE TANGLED, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO HEAD LAMPAlabama, PelhamOn March 2, Chad Lovelady (23) and Eric Langwager (17) decided they would go rappelling that evening on rocks behind the building where th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Chaturangi III Attempt

Chaturangi III Attempt. Britons A.S. Miller and R. Wright established Camp I on Chaturangi III (6304 meters, 20,683 feet) and on October 29 reached a high point 100 meters from the summit.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, El Mocho, North Face

El Mocho, North Face. A new route was climbed on this wall during the good spell of weather at the end of January, 1996. Argentinians Mario Rinkewicz and Stephen Wewell climbed a new line just right of the Salvaterra route.


Accident Reports AAJ
Tetons: (2) Mount Owen

Tetons: (2) Mount Owen. On 8 August 1947 Clement Rams- land, an instructor in Public Speaking at the University of Minnesota, fell during a descent en rappel from a position above the saddle between Mt. Owen and the East Prong. As first man down i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Arizona, Oak Creek Canyon, Lucifer's Tooth, New Route

Oak Creek Canyon, Lucifer’s Tooth, New Route. In late December, Ned Overs and I established a new line on the severely overhanging east face of Lucifer’s Tooth in Oak Creek Canyon, located just north of Sedona, Arizona. The 110-meter Black Sunshin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Jiangpu Glacier, Exploration Asia, Tibet, Nyanchen Tanglha East

When flying from Chengdu to Lhasa, you pass over more than 200, 6,000m peaks in the Nyanchen Tanglha East. Nearly all are unclimbed, and many are situated either side of the Yi’ong Tsangpo. In 2010 and 2011 Tibet became more sensitive, and access ...

| Published 2011 | Author Tamotsu Nakamura


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam. Our expedition made the third ascent of the south ridge of Ama Dablam and the sixth of the mountain. We were Joan Massons, leader, Jordi Colomer, Ramón Bramona, Dr. Josep Barrachina, Emili Civis, Alex Alom, Lluis López, the Frenchman J...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Wrangell Mountains, Mt. Schou, Peak 8625', and Peak 8778', New Routes

Mt. Schou, Peak 8625', and Peak 8778', New Routes. In early July, Gary Green of McCarthy Air flew Chad Taylor and me to White River near Pingpong Mountain. We spent two days bushwhacking, river crossing, and scree scrambling up to our base camp on...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity

The Desert, various activity. Significant new routes were established on the Navajo Sandstone of the Colorado Plateau in 2002. Paul Ross, age 65, has been extremely active on the long slabs of the imposing reef at the eastern edge of the San Rafae...