Pigeon Spire, North Face. While we were camped at Pigeon Col, the nearby unclimbed north face of Pigeon Spire presented an obvious challenge. On August 5, the day after our arrival at the col, I cut steps across the north bergschrund and then Yvon...
“Trident Peak”, Kenai. After packing up Falls Creek late the previous day, Chuck McLaughlin and I made the first ascent on July 1 of this massive, glacier-hung, gendarme-studded mountain, which lies in the Snow River-Paradise Lake area five miles ...
Twins. An expedition of four from the Tokyo Agricultural University, led by Ken Miyazawa, attempted the Twins (24,117 feet) on the frontier between Nepal and Sikkim, just north of Kangchenjunga, which had been tried unsuccessfully before the war. ...
Phurbi Chhyachu, Jugal Himal. Our joint expedition made the first ascent of Phurbi Chhyachu (6658 meters, 21,844 feet) by its southwest ridge. We were three Nepalese and sixteen Japanese. We left on March 25 and got to the Jugal Base Camp at 13,62...
Mount Alberta, Northeast Ridge. Kevin Swigert and I climbed the northeast ridge of Mount Alberta on August 10 and 11. The climbing was predominantly on rock with the crux, an impressive 1200-foot pillar high on the face. Eight final pitches on ste...
Ascent of Keshnikhan and Scientific Research. The Academic Section, Graz, of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) was led by Roger S. de Grancy, and further composed of Dr. Herfried Gamerith, Robert Kostka, Dr. Gert Glaser, Fritz Ebster, Dr. Karl Gratzl...
Waterfall Peaks (9600 ft.). Poboktan-Jonas divide, S. W. of warden’s cabin on Poboktan Creek. These sharp little peaks present a steep face on the E. but like the nearby Poboktan Peak have interminable scree slopes on their W. sides. In 1938 the W...
Jirishanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and Verónica, Cordillera Urubamba and Other Peaks in Both Ranges. Our team consisted of six members from Japan, Hirishi Furuhata, Nobuyoshi Kobayashi, Tomoaki Kato, Yoji Wachi, Koichi Iwatani and myself as leader, ...
Casa de Guías, Huaraz. The Asociación de Guiaís (guides) deú Peru has managed to have its own home built in Huaraz, which has been named the Casa de Guías. President of the association is Celio Villón and address of the Casa is Centro Comercial 28...
Fanskiye Gory, Western End of Pamir-Alai Chain. A strong 10-man expedition of the Czechoslovak Mountaineering Federation was led by Petr Schnábl. They made eleven ascents, six of them firsts. The new routes follow. Jirí Martiš and Petr Valovicon f...
Purísima. Our expedition to the Ruri Chinchey was plagued by bad weather. We failed to climb objectives at the head of the valley. Finally on July 13, the first day of really good weather in several weeks, Hugh Thompson, Harry Eldridge, Eric White...
The Appalachian Mountain Club is continuing courses and lectures on mountaineering problems, dealing largely with rock climbing and the rescue problems involved. The rock climbing section of its New York chapter is doing exemplary work in teaching...
El Capitan, Reach for the Sky, 1989. This route, done in the fall of 1989, starts several hundred yards left of the West Face route and above the huge chockstones in the gully. I spent eight days and four nights on the wall on this eight-bolt solo...
Washington, Mt. Rainier. At about 8:00 a.m. on 31 May Mr. Sundquist and his daughter, and Mr. James M. Reddick (51), with his son David (12) and daughter Sharon (11) left Paradise for Camp Muir. The party planned to spend the night in the public s...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Mount Norman ClydeOn June 29, 1987, a rappelling climber dislodged a boulder that hit Roy Bishop (54) on the head. He tumbled down ten meters, landing on a narrow ledge. After regaining consciousness, Bishop was tied off on...
Langtang Lirung Winter Ascent. The summit of Langtang Lirung (7234 meters, 23,734 feet) was reached for the ninth time when Japanese leader Akitsugu Nishimura, Pang Nima Sherpa and Ang Kazi Sherpa got to the top via the southeast ridge on December...
Annapurna II Attempt. A Japanese expedition of four had hoped to climb the southwest ridge of Annapurna II, a new route. They reached only 5100 meters and were stopped by the constant fall of séracs and stones. All three climbing members reached t...
Yanashinga, Direct South Face. José Li Linway, Diego Fernández, and I left the village of San Mateo (3,300m), arriving at Tíclio in the middle of the night and at the foot of the wall around 3:00 a.m on July 20. Roped as a team of three, with the ...
Charlotte Dome, Southwest Arête. Dave Lomba and I climbed 11 pitches of choice high-country granite along this narrow ridge. We skied over Kearsarge Pass in early May and camped near Bullfrog Lake. The climb was all free, clean, and took most of a...
The second ascent of the most difficult peak in Colorado, the Lizard Head, 13,156 feet, was accomplished on June 9, 1929, by Harold G. Wilm and Dobson West. The first ascent was made by Albert Ellingwood, accompanied by Barton Hoag, in 1920. The s...