Edward Whymper, by Frank S. Smythe. 8 vo., xiv + 330 pages,with illustrations, map and index. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1940. Price $6.00.There are new things in this book: the striking frontispiece portrait by Lance Calkin, and reproduction...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. Our Expedition from Schwäbisch Gmünd was composed of Josef Funk, Karl Wamsler, Alfred Eggensperger, Helmut Rösch, Bernd Neubaur, Hans Schmid and me as leader. We at- temped the southwest ridge (the Toni Kinshofer Route) and f...
La Nuit des Drus, by Charles Gos. 8 vo. New edition. Neuchatel: Attinger, 1934. Price Fr. 3.50.It would appear at first glance inconceivable that a volume could be written on the subject of one night’s bivouac close to the summit of a mountain pea...
Kichatna Spire, Voice of Unreason to summit ridge, and Whiteout Spire, Front Butt. After we festered for five days in the rain in downtown Talkeetna, the clouds parted, and Paul Roderick of TAT was finally able to fly Rob Owens, Roger Strong, and ...
ERIC E. SHIPTON1907-1977Eric Shipton, probably the world’s most distinguished explorer of mountain regions, died at Ansty Manor, near Salisbury, England, March 28, 1977. A gentle, kindly man, with a philosophical turn of mind, Eric had a lifelong ...
Broad Peak Attempt. We were at Base Camp on July 9 but were held up by five days of bad weather. Shortly after that Georges Bettembourg, Patrick Vallençant, Jean Louis Estienne and Denis Conte placed Camps I and II at 17,725 and 20,675 feet and he...
Poi, North Face, Dark Safari. In the early 1980s, Andrew Wielochowski (a Brit based in Kenya) did the first climbing on Poi. After several attempts, he got up a line on the right-hand side of the east face, climbing ground up over three and a half...
ALFRED D. LINDLEY1904-1951Death came to Alfred D. Lindley and two friends in the crash of a private plane in Nebraska on 22 February 1951. They were en route to Aspen, Colorado, for a two weeks’ skiing holiday. The plane was owned and piloted by h...
Beluga Mountain and, Rock Tower, Sam Ford Fiord, Baffin Island, 1987. Christian Dalphin, Bernard Wietlisbach, Xaver Bongard and I flew from Montreal to Clyde River at 71°N. On June 18, 1987 at 10:30 P.M., we set out with Eskimos towing kamatiks (s...
Kiguti, Norwegian Route; Fin massif, Gud Har Ikkje Gløymt Oss, Han Gir Bare Faen. In early April, Ole Lied, Sigurd Felde, Audun Hetland, and I left Norway for Sam Ford Fjord. We had seen pictures of the great wall of Kiguti from the Norwegian 2000...
RAPPEL FAILURE-TRYING TO PASS KNOT, CLIMBING ALONEArizona, Phoenix, Waterfall Area, White Tank Regional ParkOn October 4, Maricopa County Sheriff’s Office Mountain Rescue was notified via SAR Coordinator, Deputy Tony Navarra, that a climber had ap...
The Crestones, Colorado. Mountaineering is the delicate operation of pursuing the appearance of danger while avoiding its reality. In my bailiwick of Colorado, there is no place where it can be practised with greater security than on the Crestones...
Rignys Bjerg area, various first ascents. A group consisting of Norman Vernon (co-leader), Robert MacCallum, Dave Rothery, Graham Poole, Sandy Gregson, and myself (co-leader) flew on 30 June from Isafjördur, Iceland to Constable Pynt, Northeast Gr...
Baffin Island. In late June final preparations for our trip were made at the home of Dr. Pat Baird in Montreal, Canada. By early July we had flown to the Eskimo village of Pangnirtung on the Cumberland Peninsula of Baffin Island. Pack ice, left by...
Inspired by pictures from an expedition in 2007 led by Dick Griffiths and reported in AAJ 2008, four of us from the Netherlands, supported by the Dutch Alpine Club, visited Southeast Ren Land from August 8-30, operating from a base camp at the hea...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. Founded in 1964 in Phoenix, the Arizona Mountaineering Club enjoyed another successful year in 1995. Membership approached 340. Many members climbed and trekked in various parts of the world. Several joined a high alti...
FROSTBITE—INADEQUATE CLOTHINGAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 2nd, guided expedition AMS-5-Wilkinson departed the 17,200- foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley for the summit at 0600. This group of six, including two guides,...
EDWARD A. LANE 1935-1969The Logan Expedition was a dream come true for Ed Lane. It meant the completion of three peaks, the most difficult, high and largest mountain massif in North America. His Logan Traverse would have covered the entire Logan M...
Agdlerussakasit east face, Maujit Qoqarsassia (1,560 m) first ascent and new route. The members of our expedition were Jesus Bosque (cameraman), Cecilia Buil (Spain), Gorka Ferro (kayaker), and Roberta Nunez (Brazil). From Nanortalik we paddled in...
The Vilcabamba and SalcantayIan Harverson‡, Australian Andean Expedition, 1973, and MichaelG. Andrews, New Zealand Apline ClubThe Pumasillo GroupTHE Australian Andean Expedition 1973 entered the Pumasillo basin on June 1 via Cuzco and Santa Teresa...