The Tooth, Snoqualmie Pass. Cindy Long and I established a direct route up the east face of the Tooth on August 3. We started up the steep but mostly easy 5th-class comers past a tree. We then moved left onto a high-angle slab and up an exposed ne...
The Colorado Mountain Club. The CMC continued its emphasis on large numbers of hikes in the Colorado area, with over 2,000 trips offered during the year. In addition, a number of outings were sponsored to other parts of the world, including trips ...
Himalchuli West Attempt. Time limitations and almost continuous bad weather forced William Briggs, Michael Daugherty, Richard Davidson, John Sarracino, Roger Siglin and me to abandon the expedition. We established Base Camp at 12,000 feet and Camp...
McKinley, South Face. Mark Leffler and I made the second ascent of the route on the western side of the south face which was first climbed solo by Czech Miroslav Šmíd on May 17, 1991. [See AAJ, 1992 page 119 and photo on page 120.] The six pitches...
Leo Pargial, Ascent, and Medical Work. Leo Pargial (6791m) in Hangrang (North Kinnaur) was first climbed on August 10, 1933, by a British team led by Marco Pallis via the west ridge. The first Indian ascent, led by D. K. Khullar, was also made via...
Bamba Dhura. Bamba Dhura is so remote and difficult of access that it took us 20 days to have our first glimpse of the peak. Munsiari was the last bus station, reached via Almora. From there it took us four days to get to Base Camp at 13,200 feet ...
Cerro Stanhardt, West Face. Italians Maurizio Giarolli, Ermanno Salvaterra and Elio Orlandi climbed a very difficult new route on the west face of Cerro Stanhardt. It rises 1200 meters. On September 21, they attacked the west face from the Bifida-...
Kampf und Sieg am Nanga Parbat. Karl M. Herrligkoffer. Bayerische Verlagsanstalt, Bamberg, 1979. 160 pages, 89 photos in black and white and 7 in color. Maps and diagrams. Maps as end-papers with all routes marked. Mount Everest. K.M. Herrligkoffe...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn October 8, 1988, Bob Drumheller (31) and his partner were at the top of “Touch- N-Go” preparing to rappel when rock fall came down. Drumheller sustained a laceration requiring four s...
Ampato. We approached Ampato via the railroad station at Sumbay and Sillai. With rain or new snow the road beyond the turn-off is very bad and hard to find. We climbed Ampato by the southeast side, which normally has less snow than the other ridge...
Patagonia Orocline Expedition. A full article appears earlier in this Journal about exploration in various parts of Patagonia carried out while making geological research in 1967-8.
Ganesh Himal. The Englishman J. Wallace, accompanied only by two Sherpas, made the second ascent of Ganesh (24,300 feet) on May 31. The first ascent was made by Raymond Lambert, Mme. Claude Kogan and Eric Gauchat in October, 1955.
Annapurna, Pre-Monsoon Attempts. There were two unsuccessful expeditions that attempted the Dutch route on the north face of Annapurna. Austrian Arthur Haid led five Austrians and a German, who reached 5900 meters on April 21. Ralf Dujmovits guide...
Mount Huntington from the West. A six-man Japanese expedition led by Masao Yoshida climbed Mount Huntington by the Harvard route. This is the third time that route has been climbed. They began on May 3 and reached the summit on May 30. Their origi...
Rocky Mountain National Park (2)—On August 13, 1954, Mrs. Leahdell Dick (21) climbed to the top of Hallett’s Peak and planned to come down Andrews Glacier. She mistook a snowfield between Hallett and Otis Peaks for the glacier. This snowfield is t...
Sister Superior, Castle Valley area, Black Sabbath. The first free ascent of the north face of Sister Superior (III 5.11, four pitches, 330 feet) was made by Eric Decaria and Brad Barlage, November 18-19.Eric Bjørnstad
Mount Kinabalu, Lows Gully, First Ascent. Pep Soldevila, Carles Albesa, Xavier Fernández, and Xavier Vilella made the first ascent of Lows Gully via the route La Alquimista (A3 6b, 800m). One A3 pitch was free climbed at 7b by the second. Further ...
Kun Attempt. A Colorado Mountain Club group attempted to climb Kun by the northeast ridge. Dick Dietz, Kent Groninger, Cathleen Richards and I left Kargil on June 11. The road was passable by truck only to near Parkachik. On June 12, we rigged a p...
Broad Peak, west face; Gasherbrum I, southwest face. Viktor Afanasiev and Valery Babanov completed an alpine- style new route on the central buttress of 8,047m Broad Peak’s west face (3,000m, ED VI WI5 M6 90°). They joined the west ridge route at ...
The Needles, Voodoo Dome, White Punks on Dope. On the left of the south side of Voodoo Dome, the major expanse of rock meets a jumbled, somewhat vegetated area and forms a large, left-facing dihedral/ chimney several hundred feet high. Around the ...