The HimalayaObservations from the roof of the worldAndrej Štremfelj, Slovenia translated by Ana PercicFrom its inception, alpinism has gone through different periods of development. Various factors influenced that development; in the beginning, th...
Northern Sikkim, Chomoyummo, attempt and accident. In September the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) organized a high-profile expedition to Chomoyummo (6,829m) on the Tibet border. The nine-member team was led by the hugely experienced Dr. P...
Yogishwar Attempt and Ascent of Saife. A 5-man Spanish team led by Fernando Navarro approached from the Shyamvarna Glacier and established camp on the south ridge of Yogishwar (6678 meters, 21,910 feet). However, in late September they encountered...
El Mocho, Various Ascents. The Goulotte Grassi was repeated by two French teams (B. Sourzac-L. Monnoyeur. and Pierre Mahenc-J.P. Tremblai, both on November 26) that profited from good ice conditions early in the season. The Voie des Benitiers also...
Tetons: (I) Symmetry Spire, St. John Massif. In mid-June 1947, a climber, Hans Breu, was making an attempt on one of the cliffs in this district with a companion, George Senner. Breu decided to climb a more difficult pitch than his companion felt ...
Latok Attempt. Benden Murphy and I made two alpine-style attempts on the Lowe route on Latok’s north ridge between long spells of heavy snow. On September 4, our first attempt ended after a day of climbing and a bivouac at 5300 meters when snow be...
West Temple, Back Where it All Begins. On April 10, John Rzyczecki and I started a new route on the southeast face of the West Temple. The route, Back Where it All Begins (VI 5.1 la A3), follows the obvious diagonal line up the center of the wall ...
In the autumn a party of climbers made four ascents in the Qungmo Kangri group at the southwestern end of Nyanchen Tanglha. They first tried the lower of two peaks referred to as Dhungri by nomads. This peak is generally known as Tangmonja and was...
Baruntse. The seven-man Chiba University expedition was led by Hideaki Yoshinaga. They climbed the southeast ridge, the same route as used by the New Zealanders in 1954 and the Japanese last autumn and winter. After establishing four camps above B...
Mt. Blackburn, New Route, Previously Unreported. In May, 1998, Franz Mueter, Martin Truffer, and I walked in from the McCarthy Road to the Kuskalana Glacier, then up to a camp at about 5,000 feet beneath the west face of Mt. Blackburn. From there,...
Lost Horizon, first free ascent. On January 29 Ty Mack and I made the first free ascent of the stunning Lost Horizon route, located in Lost Canyon in Sedona, AZ. Lost Horizon follows an impeccable corner system for four long pitches. The climbing ...
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, LEADER’ S LAPSE LEAD TO MISJUDGMENTUtah, Uinta Mountains – Between Gunsight Pass and Kings PeakOn June 29, Lucy (42), a beginning climber, was climbing above the leader (71) on an ascent near Kings Peak. She tr...
Further Note on the Earthquake in Southeastern Alaska. The tidal wave that washed huge trees off the sides of mountains above Lituya Bay was certainly one of the biggest in history. A triangular area about a mile across its base and reaching an al...
Lucania, Southeast Ridge. Greg White, Chip Brejc, Pat Patersen, Jeff Pat- heal, Jay Pistono and I made the first ascent of the Aurora (southeast) ridge of Lucania. Andy Williams flew us all in the same day. The last group flew through the clouds t...
FAILURE OF NUT, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAYCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyIn early October 1982, two climbers were on Pancake Flake when the following incident occurred. The leader placed one piece for aid, then a second. He took out the first and ...
Kangerlluqsuaq Fjord, Various Ascents. On July 12, eight of us (Phil Bartlett, Dave Wilkinson, Helen Geddes, John Hudson, Graham Robinson, Ken Findlay, Pete Nelson and Brian Davison) were dropped by ski Twin Otter to the south of Kangerlluqsuaq Fj...
Gasherbrum II. Austrians Gabriele Binder, Dr. Georg Fritsch, Franz and Gerhard Neumayer, Franz Püchler and Walter Senhotta and Pakistani Shah Jehan made an ascent of Gasherbrum II by the standard route. They traveled from Dasso to Base Camp at 16,...
La Esfinge, Intuition, New Route. After paying our dues with the requisite Peruvian stomach funk, my partner, Taki Miyamoto, and I headed into the Paron Valley, in the northern section of the Cordillera Blanca. What would be a leisurely two-hour h...
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome). Our expedition, led by Rudi Mayr had 16 members, most of them high-altitude trekkers with no serious ambition for the summit (7193meters, 23,600 feet). The mountain was approached from the south and Base Camp was establi...
Squamish, Black Dyke, free climb. The Black Dyke on Squamish has been a serious test for aid climbers since it was first climbed by Al Givler and Mead Hargis in 1970, but climbers ascending the Grand Wall route have also peered over and dreamed of...